• 


LIFE 


EXPLORATIONS  AND  PUBLIC  SERVICES 


WITH  ILLUSTRATIONS. 


For  thou  wert  of  the  mountains;  they  proclaim 
The  eTerlastiug  creed  of  liberty. 

BRYANT. 


B  OSTON: 
TICKNOR    AND    FIELDS. 

M.DCCC.LVI. 


Entered  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1856,  by  TICKNOR 
AND  FIELDS,  in  the  Clerk's  Office  of  the  District  Court  of  the  District 
of  Massachusetts. 


RIVERSIDE,  CAMBRIDGE: 

STEREOTYPED   AND   PRINTED   BY 

H.  0.  HOUOHTON  AND  COMPANY. 


PREFACE. 


THE  second  and  third  chapters  of  this  work,  em- 
bracing the  period  covered  by  the  first  two  expeditions, 
have  substantially  the  value  and  authority  of  an  auto- 
biography. Fremont  tells  his  own  story,  in  passages 
extracted  from  his  Reports.  This  part  of  the  volume 
gives,  with  the  accompanying  illustrations,  a  perfectly 
authentic  account — as  good  as  can  be  founa — of  the 
interior  of  the  North  American  continent,  its  great 
features,  and  the  races  that  occupy  it.  The  Rocky 
Mountains,  the  parallel  range  of  the  Sierra  Nevada, 
with  the  Basin — so  full  of  strange  interest,  and  not  yet 
wholly  made  known  to  geography — between  them ;  and 
the  Pacific  regions,  are  here  described,  in  his  own 
fresh  and  effective  style,  by  their  explorer. 

The  topics  of  the  work,  generally,  are  regarded  by 
the  writer  as  having  an  interest  and  dignity  entirely 
independent  of  any  of  the  excitements  and  political 
operations  of  the  day ;  and  it  has  been  prepared  with 

1* 


VI  PREFACE. 

no  other  feeling  than  to  present  what  men  of  all  parties 
and  sections  will  hereafter,  at  all  times,  recognize  as  a 
true  picture  of  a  character  and  a  life  that  have  justly 
attracted  attention,  and  will  occupy  a  permanent  place 
in  our  annals. 

The  'facts  have  been,  in  part,  gathered  from  public 
records,  and  sources  open  to  all.  Many  of  the  details 
and  dates,  with  some  very  interesting  documents,  were 
obtained  from  Col.  Fremont.  But  for  all  the  senti- 
ments and  opinions  advanced  in  the  work,  the  writer  is 
wholly  and  exclusively  responsible. 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  I. 
Parentage — Education — Early  History 9 

CHAPTER  II. 

First  Expedition — Prairies — Fort  Laramie — South  Pass 
— Rocky  Mountains — Platte  or  Nebraska  River 23 

CHAPTER  IE. 

Second  Expedition — Kansas — Salt  Lake — Columbia 
River — Central  Basin — Sierra  Nevada — California — 
Kit  Carson — Wahsatch  Mountains — Three  Parks.  ...  107 

CHAPTER  IV. 

Third  Expedition — Arkansas — Great  Basin — Hawks 
Peak  on  the  Sierra — Tlamath  Lake 208 

CHAPTER  V. 

North  California — Bear  War — Conquest  of  California 
— Wah-lah-wah-lah  Indians — Insurrection — California 
Battalion — Insurgents  surrender  to  Fremont — Capitu- 
lation of  Cowenga.  .  .  226 


VIII  "  CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER  VI. 

Arrival  of  General  Kearney — Difficulties  between  Stock- 
ton and  Kearney — Fremont's  Arrest — Court-Martial .  252 

CHAPTER  VH. 

Fourth  Expedition — Great  Sufferings — Mariposa  Pur- 
chase— Constitution  of  California 273 

CHAPTER  VTH. 

Fremont  a  Senator  of  the  United  States 301 

CHAPTER  IX. 

Engages  in  Cattle  Business  in  California — Gold  discov- 
ery— Visit  to  England  and  France — Imprisonment  in 
London — Fit'tli  Expedition — Pacific  Railroad — Mari- 
posa Title  finally  confirmed  by  Supreme  Court  of  the 
United  States. 321 

CHAPTER  X. 
General  Remarks .  336 


LIFE   OF   FREMONT. 


CHAPTER  I. 

PARENTAGE EDUCATION EARLY     HISTORY. 

JOHN  CHARLES  FREMONT  was  born  on  the 
21st  of  January,  1813.  The  usual  residence  of 
his  family  was  in  the  city  of  Charleston,  South 
Carolina.  His  father,  who  bore  the  same  name, 
was  deeply  interested  in  studying  the  character 
and  condition  of  the  North  American  Indians, 
and  spent  the  last  years  of  his  life  in  visiting 
many  of  their  tribes.  On  these  excursions  he 
took  his  family  with  him,  and  moved  slowly, 
stopping  leisurely  at  the  larger  towns  and  points 
of  chief  interest.  It  was  on  one  of  these  tours 
that  the  subject  of  this  memoir  was  born,  in  the 
city  of  Savannah.  The  father,  following  his 
favorite  pursuit,  subsequently  visited  with  his 
family,  and  remained,  for  greater  or  less  periods 
of  time,  in  various  parts  of  Georgia,  Tennessee, 
(9) 


10  LIFE    OF    FitKMONT. 

the  Carolinas,  and  Virginia.  The  mother,  cele- 
brated for  her  beauty  and  worth,  was  Ann  Bev- 
erly Whiting,  a  native  of  Gloucester  County, 
Virginia.  Her  family  was  connected  with  many 
distinguished  names,  including  that  of  Wash- 
ington, to  whom  she  was  nearly  related. 

The  father  died  in  1818,  leaving  a  widow  and 
three  children,  two  sons  and  a  daughter.  *  Col. 
Fremont  is  the  sole  survivor  of  his  family,  with 
the  exception  of  an  orphan  niece,  the  daughter 
of  his  brother,  who  since  nine  years  of  age  has 
been  a  member  of  his  family.  The  mother  died 
in  1847,  at  Aiken,  South  Carolina ;  the  brother 
and  sister  some  years  before. 

After  the  death  of  her  husband,  Mrs.  Fremont 
remained  some  time  in  Virginia,  where  John 
Charles  received  the  rudiments  of  his  education, 
at  Dinwiddie  Court  House.  She  then  removed 
back  to  Charleston,  where  she  fixed  her  residence, 
and  the  education  of  her  children  was  continued. 
Although  bom  and  reared  in  affluence,  and  ac- 
customed to  the  free  and  liberal  expenditures  of 
the  hospitable  and  generous  class  to  which  her 
Virginia  relatives  belonged,  she  was  left,  with 
her  young  charge,  in  very  limited  circumstances, 
but,  fortunately  in  a  community  which  appre- 
ciated her  claims  to  respect,  sympathy,  and  all 
kind  offices.  She  is  still  remembered  by  many 
faithful  friends  in  Charleston,  as  a  lady  of  great 
piety  and  worth. 


EDUCATION.  11 

When  John  Charles  was  about  thirteen  years 
of  age,'  John  W.  Mitchell,  Esq.,  a  lawyer  in 
Charleston,  a  gentleman  of  great  respectability, 
in  no  way  connected  with  the  family,  but  actu- 
ated only  by  benevolent  impulses,  although  per- 
ceiving, it  is  not  unlikely,  the  bright  promise  of 
the  lad,  took  him  into  his  office  for  the  purpose 
of  making  a  lawyer  of  him.  At  a  subsequent 
period,  it  became  a  favorite  object  of  Mr.  Mitch- 
ell, to  have  him  prepare  himself  for  the  ministry 
of  the  church. 

Mr.  Mitchell  placed  him  under  the  tuition  of 
Dr.  Roberton,  a  learned  instructor  at  that  time  in 
Charleston,  and  now  engaged  in  the  same  employ- 
ment in  Philadelphia.  Dr.  Roberton  published 
an  edition  of  Xenophon's  Anabasis,  in  1850.  In 
the  preface  he  gives  the  following  account  of 
the  youth  whom  Mr.  Mitchell  placed  in  his 
hands.  It  is  a  most  interesting  document,  and 
shows  how  the  character,  which  Col.  Fremont 
has  ever  exhibited,  was  formed,  and  illustrates 
the  early  development  of  the  energy  and  talent 
that  have  borne  him  on  through  life : — 

"  For  your  further  encouragement,  I  will  here 
relate  a  very  remarkable  instance  of  patient  dili- 
gence and  indomitable  perseverance. 

"  In  the  year  1827,  after  I  had  returned  to 
Charleston  from  Scotland,  and  my  classes  were 
going  on,  a  very  respectable  lawyer  came  to  my 
school,  I  think  some  time  in  the  month  of  Octo- 


12  LIFE   OP  FREMONT. 

her,  with  a  youth,  apparently  about  sixteen,  or 
perhaps  not  so  much,  (fourteen,)  of  middle  size, 
graceful  in  manners,  rather  slender,  but  well 
formed,  and,  upon  the  whole,  what  I  should  call 
handsome;  of  a  keen,  piercing  eye,  and  a  noble 
forehead,  seemingly  the  very  seat  of  genius.  The 
gentleman  stated  that  he  found  him  given  to 
study,  that  he  had  been  about  three  weeks 
learning  the  Latin  rudiments,  and  (hoping,  I 
suppose,  to  turn  the  youth's  attention  from  the 
law  to  the  ministry,)  had  resolved  to  place  him 
under  my  care  for  the  purpose  of  learning 
Greek,  Latin,  and  Mathematics,  sufficient  to 
enter  Charleston  College.  I  very  gladly  received 
him,  for  I  immediately  perceived  he  was  no 
common  youth,  as  intelligence  beamed  in  his 
dark  eye,  and  shone  brightly  on  his  countenance, 
indicating  great  ability,  and  an  assurance  of  his 
future  progress.  I  at  once  put  him  in  the  high- 
est class,  just  beginning  to  read  Caesar's  Com- 
mentaries, and,  although,  at  first  inferior,  his 
prodigious  memory  and  enthusiastic  application 
soon  enabled  him  to  surpass  the  best.  He  began 
Greek  at  the  same  time,  and  read  with  some 
who  had  been  long  at  it,  in  which  he  also  soon 
excelled.  In  short,  in  the  space  of  one  year  he 
had  with  the  class,  and  at  odd  hours  with  my- 
self, read  four  books  of  Caesar,  Cornelius  Nepos, 
Sallust,  six  books  of  Virgil,  nearly  all  Horace, 
and  two  books  of  Livy ;  and  in  Greek,  all  Grae- 


EDUCATION.  13 

ca  Minora,  about  the  half  of  the  first  volume  of 
Graeca  Majora,  and  four  books  of  Jfomer's  Iliad. 
And  whatever  he  read,  he  retained.  It  seemed 
to  me,  in  fact,  as  if  he  learned  by  mere  intuition. 
I  was  myself  utterly  astonished,  and  at  the  same 
time  delighted  with  his  progress.  I  haveJiinted 
that  he  was  designed  for  the  Church,  but  when 
I  contemplated  his  bold,  fearless  disposition,  his 
powerful  inventive  genius,  his  admiration  of  war- 
like exploits,  and  his  love  of  heroic  and  adven- 
turous deeds,  I  did  not  think  it  likely  he  would  be 
a  minister  of  the  Gospel.  He  had  not,  however, 
the  least  appearance  of  any  vice  whatever.  On 
the  contrary,  he  was  always  the  very  pattern  of 
virtue  and  modesty.  I  could  not  help  loving 
him,  so  much  did  he  captivate  me  by  his  gentle- 
manly conduct  and  extraordinary  progress.  It 
was  easy  to  see  that  he  would  one  day  raise 
himself  to  eminence.  Whilst  under  my  instruc- 
tion, I  discovered  his  early  genius  for  poetic 
composition  in  the  following  manner.  When 
the  Greek  class  read  the  account  that  Herodotus 
gives  of  the  battle  of  Marathon,  the  bravery  of 
Miltiades  and  his  ten  thousand  Greeks  raised  his 
patriotic  feelings  to  enthusiasm,  and  drew  from 
him  expressions  which  I  thought  were  embodied, 
a  few  days  afterward,  in  some  well-written 
verses  in  a  Charleston  paper,  on  that  far-famed 
unequal  but  successful  conflict  against  tyranny 
and  oppression ;  and  suspecting  my  talented 


14  LIFE   OF  FREMONT. 

scholar  to  be  the  author,  I  went  to  his  desk  and 
asked  him  if  »he  did  not  write  them  ;  and  hesitat- 
ing at  first,  rather  blushingly,  he  confessed  he 
did.  I  then  said :  '  I  knew  you  could  do  such 
things,  and  suppose  you  have  some  such  pieces 
by  you,  which  I  should  like  to  see.  Do  bring 
them  to  me.'  He  consented,  and  in  a  day  or 
two  brought  me  a  number,  which  I  read  with 
pleasure  and  admiration  at  the  strong  marks  of 
genius  stamped  on  all,  but  here  and  there  requir- 
ing, as  I  thought,  a  very  slight  amendment. 

"  I  had  hired  a  mathematician  to  teach  both 
him  and  myself,  (for  I  could  not  then  teach  that 
science,)  and  in  this  he  also  made  such  wonder- 
ful progress,  that  at  the  end  of  one  year  he  en- 
tered the  Junior  Class  in  Charleston  College 
triumphantly,  while  others  who  had  been  study- 
ing four  years  and  more,  were  obliged  to  take 
the  Sophomore  Class.  About  the  end  of  the 
year  1828,  I  left  Charleston.  After  that  he 
taught  Mathematics  for  some  time.  His  career 
afterwards  has  been  one  of  heroic  adventure,  of 
hair-breadth  escapes  by  flood  and  field,  and  of 
scientific  explorations,  which  have  made  him 
world-wide  renowned.  In  a  letter  I  received 
from  him  very  lately,  he  expresses  his  gratitude  to 
me  in  the  following  words :  '  ^  am  very  far  from 
either  forgetting  you  or  neglecting  you,  or  in  any 
way  losing  the  old  regard  I  had  for  you.  There 
is  no  time  to  which  I  go  back  with  more  pleasure 


EDUCATION — EAKLY  HISTORY.  15 

than  that  spent  with  you,  for  there  was  no  time 
so  thoroughly  well  spent ;  and  of  any  thing  I  may 
have  learned,  I  remember  nothing  so  well,  and  so 
distinctly,  as  what  I  acquired  with  you.'  Here  I 
cannot  help  saying  that  the  merit  was  almost  all 
his  own.  It  is  true  that  I  encouraged  and 
cheered  him  on,  but  if  the  soil  into  which  I  put 
the  seeds  of  learning  had  not  been  of  the  richest 
quality,  they  would  never  have  sprung  up  to  a 
hundred-fold  in  the  full  ear.  Such,  my«young 
friends,  is  but  an  imperfect  sketch  of  my  once 
beloved  and  favorite  pupil,  now  a  senator,  and 
who  may  yet  rise  to  be  at  the  head  of  this  great 
and  growing  Republic.  My  prayer  is  that  he 
may  ever  be  opposed  to  war,  injustice,  and  op- 
pression of  every  kind,  a  blessing  to  his  country 
and  an  example  of  every  noble  virtue  to  the 
whole  world." 

He  was  confirmed,  in  his  seventeenth  year,  as 
a  member  of  the  Protestant  Episcopal  Church, 
in  which  communion  he  was  brought  up,  and 
continues  to  this  day.  Immediately  after  leav- 
ing college,  which  was  before  the  close  of  the 
academic  term,  he  opened  a  school  in  Charles- 
ton. At  such  hours  as  he  could  command, 
he  attended  in  other  schools  to  instruct  classes 
in  mathematics ;  and,  in  addition  to  all  these 
labors,  took  charge,  for  a  considerable  period,  of 
an  evening  school.  Persons  who  have  been  en- 
gaged in  similar  pursuits  can  appreciate  how  ex- 


16  LIFE   OF  FREMONT. 

hausting  such  continuous  labors  must  have  been. 
So  early  did  he  develop  the  indefatigable  energy 
and  power  of  endurance  that  have  marked  his 
whole  subsequent  life.  While  engaged  in  these 
humble  and  persevering  toils,  for  the  support  of 
his  \vido\ved  mother  and  her  family,  his  merits 
were  brought  int6  particular  notice  by  the  fol- 
lowing circumstance : — 

It  became  necessary,  in  the  prosecution  of 
a  lawsuit,  in  which  a  certain  rice-field  in  the 
neighborhood  of  Charleston  was  involved,  to 
have  it  carefully  and  accurately  surveyed.  It 
was  at  the  height  of  the  sickly  season,  and  the 
locality  was  so  particularly  dangerous  from  that 
cause,  that  difficulty  was  experienced  in  induc- 
ing surveyors  to  go  upon  it.  The  mathematical 
attainments  of  young  Fremont  happened  to  be 
brought  to  the  knowledge  of  the  party  concerned. 
He  promptly  agreed  to  perform  the  service.  The 
courage  with  which  he  engaged  in  the  enter- 
prise, and  the  scientific  skill  and  clerical  neat- 
ness with  which  he  executed  it,  attracted  the 
attention  and  admiration  of  so  many  persons  of 
influence,  that  he  was  at  once  secure  of  employ- 
ment and  patronage. 

Soon  after  this,  he  was  engaged  in  the  survey 
of  the  railroad  leading  from  Charleston  to  Ham- 
burg. About  the  beginning  of  the  year  1833, 
the  sloop  of  war  Natchez  arrived  in  Charleston, 
to  enforce  the  proclamation  of  President  Jack- 


EARLY   HISTORY.  17 

son.  By  the  influence  of  Mr.  Poinsett,  after- 
wards Secretary  of  War,  and  others  friendly  to 
his  family,  young  Fremont  obtained  the  situa- 
tion of  teacher  of  mathematics  and  instructor 
of  the  midshipmen  on  board  the  Natchez,  and 
sailed  in  her,  in  that  capacity,  to  the  Brazilian 
station.  At  the  termination  of  her  cruise,  she 
returned  to  New  York.  After  appearing  before 
a  board  of  examiners,  in  Baltimore,  Mr.  Fremont 
was  regularly  commissioned  as  a  professor  of 
mathematics  in  the  navy,  and  assigned  to  the 
Frigate  Independence.  The  distinguished  man- 
ner in  which  he  passed  the  examination  coming 
to  the  ears  of  the  Faculty  of  the  College  in 
Charleston,  they  instantly  conferred  upon  him 
both  the  academic  degrees,  of  Bachelor  and 
Master  of  Arts. 

An  Act  of  Congress,  passed  on  the  30th  of 
April,  1824,  authorized  the  President  of  the 
United  States  "  to  employ  two  or  more  skilful 
civil  engineers,  and  such  officers  of  the  corps  of 
engineers,  or  who  may  be  detailed  to  do  duty 
with  that  corps,  as  he  may  think  proper,  to 
cause  the  necessary  surveys,  plans,  and  estimates 
to  be  made  of  the  routes  of  such  roads  and  ca- 
nals as  he  may  deem  of  national  importance,  in 
a  commercial  or  military  point  of  view,  or  for 
the  transportation  of  the  public  mail."  Under 
this  act,  Mr.  Fremont  received  his  first  appoint- 
ment in  that  branch  of  the  public  service,  where 


18  LIFE    OF    FREMONT. 

so  signal  distinction  and  wide  renown  were 
in  reserve  for  him.  President  Jackson  selected 
him  to  be  associated  as  a  civil  engineer  with 
Captain  Williams  of  the  topographical  corps 
of  engineers, — an  officer  of  distinguished  merit, 
and  who  will  ever  be  remembered  as  one  of  the 
heroes  that  fell  at  Monterey, — in  making  a 
survey,  plans,  and  estimates  of  the  route  of  the 
Charleston  and  Cincinnati  Railroad.  Resign- 
ing his  commission  in  the  navy,  he  repaired 
with  alacrity  to  his  chosen  work.  The  portion 
of  the  route  assigned  him  was  the  mountain 
regions  of  the  Carolinas  and  Tennessee,  and  he 
there  commenced  those  observations  and  ex- 
plorations which  have  since  extended  over  such 
immense  regions.  The  winter  of  1837  and  1838 
was  spent  also  under  Captain  Williams,  in  a 
survey  of  the  Cherokee  country,  in  conducting 
the  field-work,  and  participating  in  preparing 
the  military  map  which  was  the  result  of  the 
expedition. 

During  the  administration  of  Mr.  Van  Buren, 
an  act  was  passed  and  approved  by  him  on  the 
5th  of  July,  1838,  to  increase  the  military  estab- 
lishment. The  fourth  section  required  that  the 
corps  of  topographical  engineers  should  be  or- 
ganized and  increased,  by  regular  promotion  in 
the  same,  so  that  the  said  corps  should  consist 
of  one  colonel,  one  lieutenant-colonel,  four  ma- 
jors, ten  captains,  ten  first  lieutenants,  and  ten 


EAELY   HISTORY.  19 

second  lieutenants ;  and  the  fifth  section  or- 
dained that  the  vacancies  created  by  said 
organization,  over  and  above  those  which  could 
be  filled  by  the  corps  itself,  should  be  taken 
from  the  army,  and  from  such  as  it  may  be 
deemed  advisable  of  the  civil  engineers  em- 
ployed under  the  act  of  the  30th  of  April,  1824. 

This  latter  clause  let  in  Mr.  Fremont.  It  was 
probably  designed  to  do  so,  as  his  friend  and 
patron,  Mr.  Poinsett,  was  then  Secretary  of  War. 
He  was  accordingly  commissioned,  two  days 
afterwards,  on  the  7th  of  July,  1838,  as  a  sec- 
ond lieutenant  of  the  topographical  engineers. 
About  this  time,  he  had  been  transferred  to  the 
theatre  of  his  fame,  the  field  where  his  great 
work  in  life  was  to  be  done. 

A  thorough  exploration  and  survey  of  the 
vast  region  north  of  the  Missouri,  and  west  of 
the  Mississippi,  was  deemed  by  the  administra- 
tion to  have  become  necessary,  and  arrange- 
ments were  made  to  accomplish  it.  Mr.  Nicho- 
let,  a  learned  and  distinguished  astronomer,  and 
man  of  science,  a  member  of  the  French  Acad- 
emy, and  a  gentleman  of  great  general  accom- 
plishments and  worth,  then  residing  in  St.  Louis, 
was  appointed  to  conduct  the  service.  He  re- 
quested to  have  associated  with  him  a  younger 
person,  to  act  as  his  assistant,  with  the  requisite 
qualities  of  science,  energy,  courage,  and  enter- 
prise. Mr.  Poinsett  offered  the  situation  to 


20  LIFE    OF   FREMOXT. 

Lieutenant  Fremont,  who  promptly  and  gladly 
accepted  it.  The  years  1838  and  1839  were 
spent  in  this  field,  and  the  whole  country  was 
explored  up  to  the  British  line.  *Mr.  Fremont 
participated  zealously  in  the  work,  and  in  mak- 
ing the  map  of  that  region,  which  was  presented 
to  the  government  by  Mr.  Nicholet.  In  the 
course  of  these  surveys  there  were  seventy  thou- 
sand meteorological  observations,  and  the  topog- 
raphy was  minutely  determined  by  the  proper 
calculations  at  innumerable  points.  The  map 
thus  constructed  has  been  the  source  from  which 
all  subsequent  ones  relating  to  that  region  have 
been  derived. 

In  the  spring  of  1841,  Lieutenant  Fremont 
went  in  command  of  a  small  party  to  survey 
the  Desmoines  River. 

On  the  19th  of  October,  1841,  he  was  married, 
in  the  city  of  Washington,  to  Jessie,  daughter 
of  the  Hon.  Thomas  H.  Benton,  a  Senator  in 
Congress  from  the  State  of  Missouri.  It  is  not 
at  all  strange  that  objections  were  made  to  the 
match.  A  second  lieutenant, — in  a  corps  where 
promotion  is  very  slow,  and  having  no  other 
means  of  support  than  the  unreasonably  small 
pay  allowed  to  subordinate  officers  in  our  army, 
— surely  had  nothing  to  recommend  him,  in 
the  way  of  worldly  goods  or  prospects.  He 
had  not  then  commenced  his  great  career, — no 
world-wide  lustre  had  begun  to  emblazon  his 


EARLY   HISTORY.  21 

name, — no  perilous  adventures,  on  a  broad 
theatre,  had  drawn  out,  to  general  view,  his 
heroic  qualities.  But-  the  instincts  of  a  pure 
heart  are  often  the  truest  wisdom  ;  and  he  was 
preferred  before  all  that  fashion,  wealth,  and 
great  station  could  offer. 

All  know  the  pride  and  fidelity  with  which 
Colonel  Benton  has,  ever  since  that  time,  cher- 
ished the  character  of  his  son-in-law.  Bereft  of 
his  own  sons  by  early  death,  his  heart  has  gath- 
ered its  affections  around  Fremont.  He  has 
four  daughters,  all  living,  and  all  married.  Mrs. 
Fremont  is  the  second  daughter,  and  was  born 
in  Virginia,  at  tha  family  seat  of  her  grandfather, 
Colonel  McDowell,  on  the  31st  May,  1824.  All 
that  it  would  be  proper  to  say  of  her  in  this 
work,  is  all  that  could  be  said  of  any  woman, — 
she  is  worthy  of  her  origin,  and  of  her  lot. 

We  have  now  reached  the  point  at  which 
Mr.  Fremont  arrested  that  universal  attention 
which  has  followed  him  ever  since.  His  two 
first  expeditions,  on  a  large  scale,  will  be  related 
mostly  in  his  own  language,  in  consecutive  ex- 
tracts from  his  Reports  published  by  Congress. 
The  first  Report  was  republished,  together  with 
the  second,  by  an  order  of  the  Senate  of  the 
United  States,  passed  March  3,  1845.  These 
Reports  at  once  established  his  reputation,  as  a 
scientific  explorer  and  heroic  adventurer,  through- 
out the  world.  Large  editions  of  them  have  been 


22  LIFE   OF   FREMONT. 

reprinted  by  booksellers  in  this  country,  and  also 
in  England,  and  they  have  been  noticed  with 
the  highest  commendation  in  the  various  literary 
and  scientific  journals,  at  home  and  abroad. 
The  Smithsonian  Institution  inserted  among 
its  publications  a  description  of  the  plants  col- 
lected by  him,  in  California,  prepared  by  John 
Torrey,  F.  L.  S.,  with  illustrative  plates,  enti- 
tled "  Plantce  Fremontiana"  Nothing  has  con- 
tributed more  to  the  honor  of  our  country  than 
the  manner  in  which  its  gallant  and  enlightened 
officers  have  conducted  various  exploring  expe- 
ditions, and  prepared  reports  of  them.  A  rich 
and  interesting  body  of  national  literature  has 
thus  been  accumulated.  Fremont's  Reports  of 
his  first  and  second  expedition,  at  once  gave 
him  an  European  reputation,  which  has  not  yet 
'been  rivalled.  When  the  Reports  of  the  last 
three  expeditions  are  given  to  the  world,  it  will 
be  found  that  his  explorations  cover  more 
ground,  and  bring  a  larger  contribution  to  geo- 
graphical and  other  science,  than  can  be  claimed 
for  any  other  man  in  our  annals. 

Of  the  literary  style  of  these  Reports,  the 
reader  will  be  able  to  judge  from  the  following 
chapters. 


CHAPTER   II. 

FIRST     EXPEDITION PRAIRIES FORT     LARAMIE 

SOUTH     PASS ROCKY     MOUNTAINS PLATTE     OR 

NEBRASKA    RIVER. 

THE  first  expedition  of  Lieutenant  Fremont, 
in  command  of  an  exploring  party  on  a  large 
scale,  occupied  the  summer  of  1842,  and  embraced 
the  country  between  the  Missouri  River  and  the 
Rocky  Mountains,  along  the  line  of  the  Kansas, 
and  the  Great  Platte,  or  Nebraska,  river.  Hav- 
ing received  his  instructions  from  Colonel  J.  J. 
Abert,  chief  of  the  corps  of  topographical  en- 
gineers, he  left  Washington  City  on  the  2d  of 
May,  and  arrived  at  St.  Louis,  by  way  of  New 
York,  on  the  22d  of  that  month,  where  he  made 
the  principal  preparations  for  the  service.  Hav- 
ing ascended  the  Missouri  in  a  steamboat,  he 
proceeded  to  Choteau's  Landing,  on  the  right 
bank  of  the  Kansas,  about  ten  miles  from  its 
mouth,  and  six  miles  beyond  the  western  bound- 
ary of  Missouri.  Here  the  final  arrangements 
were  completed,  every  requisite  point  provided 

(23) 


24  LIFE    OF    FREMONT. 

for,  and  the  expedition  organized  into  working 
order  and  shape. 

The  party,  which  had  been  collected  in  St. 
Louis,  consisted  principally  of  Creole  and  Cana- 
dian voyageurs,  who  had  been  trained  to  prairie 
life  and  wilderness  adventures  in  the  employ  of 
fur  companies  in  the  Indian  country,  and  con- 
sisted of  twenty-two  men.  Besides  them,  there 
was  Mr.  Charles  Preuss,  a  native  of  Germany, 
who  had  been  thoroughly  educated  to  sketch  the 
topographical  features  of  a  country,  and  to  whose 
extraordinary  skill  and  enthusiasm,  in  the  prose- 
cution of  the  service  assigned  him,  Col.  Fremont 
has  always  borne  the  most  affectionate  and  grate- 
ful testimony.  Mr.  L.  Maxwell  was  engaged  as 
a  hunter,  and  Christopher  Carson,  celebrated  the 
world  over  for  his  genius  and  exploits  as  a  moun- 
taineer, and  everywhere  known  as  Kit  Carson, 
was  the  guide  of  the  expedition.  Henry  Brant, 
a  son  of  Col.  J.  H.  Brant,  of  St.  Louis,  nineteen 
years  of  age,  and  Randolph,  a  son  of  Col.  Benton, 
twelve  years  of  age,  also  accompanied  it.  The 
latter,  of  course,  was  especially  under  the  charge 
of  Mr.  Fremont.  Such  an  experience,  it  was 
thought,  would  be  favorable  to  his  physical  and 
mental  development ;  and  it  may  \vell  be  sup- 
posed that  an  interesting  lad  of  that  age  would 
be  a  source  of  amusement  and  an  object  of  at- 
tachment to  men,  whose  mode  of  life  had  given 
them  but  little  opportunity  to  enjoy  the  society 


FIRST   EXPEDITION.  25 

of  such  a  companion.  Randolph  was  undoubt- 
edly the  pet  and  the  pride  of  the  party.  Eight 
men  conducted  as  many  carts,  which  contained 
stores,  baggage,  and  instruments,  and  were  each 
drawn  by  two  mules.  All  the  rest  were  well 
armed  and  mounted.  A  few  extra  horses,  and 
four  oxen,  as  an  addition  to  the  stock  of  pro- 
visions, completed  the  train.  It  started  on  the 
morning  of  Friday,  the  10th  of  June.  Mr.  Cho- 
teau  accompanied  the  party  until  they  met  an 
Indian,  whom  he  had  engaged  to  conduct  them 
some  forty  miles,  thus  giving  them  a  fair  start. 

It  will  be  well,  before  entering  upon  a  detail 
of  the  adventures  of  the  expedition  in  its  route, 
to  describe  the  general  regulations  and  ordinary 
arrangements,  in  travel  and  in  camp,  from  day 
to  day. 

"  During  our  journey,  it  was  the  customary 
practice  to  encamp  an  hour  or  two  before  sunset, 
when  the  carts  were  disposed  so  as  to  form  a  sort 
of  barricade  around  a  circle  some  eighty  yards  in 
diameter.  The  tents  were  pitched,  and  the  horses 
hobbled  and  turned  loose  to  graze;  and  but  a 
few  minutes  elapsed  before  the  cooks  of  the 
messes,  of  which  there  were  four,  were  busily 
engaged  in  preparing  the  evening  meal.  At 
nightfall  the  horses,  mules,  and  oxen  were  driven 
in,  and  picketed — that  is,  secured  by  a  halter,  of 
which  one  end  was  tied  to  a  small  steel-shod 
picket,  and  driven  into  the  ground;  the  halter 


26  LIFE    OF   FREMONT. 

being  twenty  or  thirty  feet  long,  which  enabled 
them  to  obtain  a  little  food  during  the  night. 
When  we  had  reached  a  part  of  the  country 
where  such  a  precaution  became  necessary,  the 
carts  being  regularly  arranged  for  defending  the 
camp,  guard  was  mounted  at  eight  o'clock,  con- 
sisting of  three  smen,  who  were  relieved  every 
two  hours  ;  the  morning  watch  being  horse  guard 
for  the  day.  At  daybreak  the  camp  was  roused, 
the  animals  turned  loose  to  graze,  and  breakfast 
generally  over  between  six  and  seven  o'clock, 
when  we  resumed  our  march,  making  regularly 
a  halt  at  noon  for  one  or  two  hours.  Such  was 
usually  the  order  of  the  day,  except  when  acci- 
dent of  country  forced  a  variation  ;  which,  how- 
ever, happened  but  rarely." 

The  party  was  now  fairly  afloat  on  the  bound- 
less ocean  of  prairie,  the  Indian  guide  had  left, 
and  the  excitements  and  perils  of  the  service 
began. 

"  We  reached  the  ford  of  the  Kansas  late  in 
the  afternoon  of  the  14th,  where  the  river  was 
two  hundred  and  thirty  yards  wide,  and  com- 
menced immediately  preparations  for  crossing. 
I  had  expected  to  find  the  river  fordable  ;  but  it 
had  been  swollen  by  the  late  rains,  and  was 
sweeping  by  with  an  angry  current,  yellow  and 
turbid  as  the  Missouri.  Up.  to  this  point,  the 
road  we  had  travelled  was  a  remarkably  fine  one, 
well  beaten,  and  level — the  usual  road  of  a 


FIRST   EXPEDITION.  27 

prairie  country.  By  our  route,  the  ford  was  one 
hundred  miles  from  the  mouth  of  the  Kansas 
River.  Several  mounted  men  led  the  way  into 
the  stream,  to  swim  across.  The  animals  were 
driven  in  after  them,  and  in  a  few  minutes  all 
had  reached  the  opposite  bank  in  safety,  with  the 
exception  of  the  oxen,  which  swam  some  dis- 
tance down  the  river,  and,  returning  to  the  right 
bank,  were  not  got  over  until  the  next  morning. 
In  the  mean  time,  the  carts  had  been  unloaded 
and  dismantled,  and  an  India-rubber  boat,  which 
I  had  brought  with  me  for  the  survey  of  the  Platte 
River,  placed  in  the  water.  The  boat  was  twenty 
feet  long,  and  five  broad,  and  on  it  were  placed 
the  body  and  wheels  of  a  cart,  with  the  load 
belonging  to  it,  and  three  men  with  paddles. 

"  The  velocity  of  the  current,  and  the  inconven- 
ient freight,  rendering  it  difficult  to  be  managed, 
Basil  Lajeunesse,  one  of  our  best  swimmers,  took 
in  his  teeth  a  line  attached  to  the  boat,  and  swam 
ahead  in  order  to  reach  a  footing  as  soon  as  pos- 
sible, and  assist  in  drawing  her  over.  In  this 
manner,  six  passages  had  been  successfully  made, 
and  as  many  carts  with  their  contents,  and  a 
greater  portion  of  the  party  deposited  on  the  left 
bank ;  but  night  was  drawing  near,  and,  in  our 
anxiety  to  have  all  over  before  the  darkness 
closed  in,  I  put  upon  the  boat  the  remaining  two 
carts,  with  their  accompanying  load.  The  man 
at  the  helm  was  timid  on  water,  and,  in  his  alarm, 


28  LIFE    OF   FREMONT. 

capsized  the  boat.  Carts,  barrels,  boxes,  and 
'bales,  were  in  a  moment  floating  down  the  cur- 
rent ;  but  all  the  men  who  were  on  the  shore 
jumped  into  the  water,  without  stopping  to  think 
if  they  could  swim,  and  almost  everything — even 
heavy  articles,  such  as  guns  and  lead — was 
recovered. 

"  Two  of  the  men,  who  could  not  swim,  came 
nigh  being  drowned,  and  all  the  sugar  belonging 
to  one  of  the  messes  wasted  its  sweets  on  the 
muddy  waters ;  but  our  heaviest  loss  was  a  bag 
of  coffee,  which  contained  nearly  all  our  provision. 
It  was  a  loss  which  none  but  a  traveller  in  a 
strange  and  inhospitable  country  can  appreciate  ; 
and  often  afterward,  when  excessive  toil  and  long 
marching  had  overcome  us  with  fatigue  and 
weariness,  we  remembered  and  mourned  over 
our  loss  in  the  Kansas.  Carson  and  Maxwell 
had  been  much  in  the  water  yesterday,  and  both, 
in  consequence,  were  taken  ill." 

The  various  aspects  and  incidents  of  prairie 
scenery  and  life  are  presented  with  great  felicity 
of  description.  The  following  passages  will  be 
read  with  interest.  They  had  met  a  party  of 
trappers  belonging  to  the  American  Fur  Com- 
pany :— 

"  We  laughed  then  at  their  forlorn  and  vaffa- 

o  o 

bond  appearance,  and  in  our  turn,  a  month  or 
two  afterward,  furnished  the  same  occasion  for 
merriment  to  others.  Even  their  stock  of  tobac- 


THE   PRAIRIE.  29 

co,  that  sine  qua  non  of  a  voyageur,  without 
which  the  night  fire  is  gloomy,  was  entirely  ex- 
hausted. However,  we  shortened  their  home- 
ward journey  by  a  small  supply  of  our  own  provis- 
ion. They  gave  us  the  welcome  intelligence  that 
the  buffalo  were  abundant  some  two  days'  march 
in  advance,  and  made  us  a  present  of  some  choice 
pieces,  which  were  a  very  acceptable  change 
from  our  salt  pork.  In  the  interchange  of  news, 
and  the  renewal  of  old  acquaintanceships,  we 
found  wherewithal  to  fill  a  busy  hour ;  then  we 
mounted  our  horses,  and  they  shouldered  their 
packs,  and  wTe  shook  hands  and  parted.  Among 
them,  I  had  found  an  old  companion  on  the 
northern  prairie,  a  hardened  and  hardly  served 
veteran  of  the  mountains,  who  had  been  .as 
much  hacked  and  scarred  as  an  old  moustache  of 
Napoleon's  "  old  guard."  He  flourished  in  the 
sobriquet  of  La  Tulipe,  and  his  real  name  I  never 
knew.  Finding  that  he  was  going  to  the  States 
only  because  his  company  was  bound  in  that 
direction,  and  that  he  was  rather  more  willing  to 
return  with  me,  I  took  him  again  into  my  ser- 
vice." 

La 'Tulipe,  so  graphically  described  by  Fre- 
mont in  the  foregoing  extract,  belongs  to  a  class 
of  men  who  add  much  to  the  romantic  interest 
of  the  great  interior  wilds  of  our  continent. 
The  sailors  of  the  prairie,  their  only  home  is 
on  those  mighty  wastes,  thek  life  is  spent  in 

3* 


30  LIFE    OF   FREMONT. 

wandering  from  point  to  point,  their  eyes  delight 
in  the  boundless  landscape,  their  hearts  in  scenes 
of  peril  and  adventure.  They  are  as  completely 
severed  from  the  ties  of  locality,  and  the  re- 
straints of  ordinary  life,  as  the  sailor ;  they  are 
as  familiar  with  physical  suffering,  and  with  ex- 
posure to  storm  and  death,  as  free  from  care,  and 
as  brave,  generous,  and  noble-hearted. 

"  At  our  evening  camp,  about  sunset,  three 
figures  were  discovered  approaching,  which  our 
glasses  made  out  to  be  Indians.  They  proved 
to  be  Cheyennes — two  men,  and  a  boy  of  thir- 
teen. About  a  month  since,  they  had  left  their 
people  on  the  south  fork  of  the  river,  some  three 
hundred  miles  to  the  westward,  and  a  party  of 
only  four  in  number  had  been  to  the  Pawnee 
villages  on  a  horse-stealing  excursion,  from  which 
they  were  returning  unsuccessful.  They  were 
miserably  mounted  on  wild  horses  from  the 
Arkansas  plains,  and  had  no  other  weapons  than 
bows  and  long  spears ;  and  had  they  been  dis- 
covered by  the  Pawnees,  could  not,  by  any 
possibility,  have  escaped.  They  were  mortified 
by  their  ill  success,  and  said  the  Pawnees  were 
cowards,  who  shut  up  their  horses  in  their  lodges 
at  night.  I  invited  them  to  supper  with  me, 
and  Randolph  and  the  young  Cheyenne,  who 
had  been  eyeing  each  other  suspiciously  and 
curiously,  soon  became  intimate  friends. 

"  A  few  miles  brought  us  into  the  midst  of  the 


THE   PRAIRIE.  31 

buffalo,  swarming  in  immense  numbers  over  the 
plains,  where  they  had  left  scarcely  a  blade  of 
grass  standing.  Mr.  Preuss,  who  was  sketching 
at  a  little  distance  in  the  rear,  had  at  first  noted 
them  as  large  groves  of  timber.  In  the  sight  of 
such  a  mass  of  life,  the  traveller  feels  a  strange 
emotion  of  grandeur.  We  had  heard  from  a  dis- 
tance a  dull  and  confused  murmuring,  and,  when 
we  came  in  view  of  their  dark  masses,  there  was 
not  one  among  us  who  did  not  feel  his  heart  beat 
quicker.  It  was  the  early  part  of  the  day,  when 
the  herds  are  feeding ;  and  everywhere  they  were 
in  motion.  Here  and  there  a  huge  old  bull  was 
rolling  in  the  grass,  and  clouds  of  dust  rose  in 
the  air  from  various  parts  of  the  bands,  each  the 
scene  of  some  obstinate  fight.  Indians  and  buf- 
falo make  the  poetry  and  life  of  the  prairie,  and 
our  camp  was  full  of  their  exhilaration.  In  place 
of  the  quiet  monotony  of  the  march,  relieved 
only  by  the  cracking  of  the  whip,  and  an  '  avance 
done  !  enfant  de  garce  ! '  shouts  and  songs  re- 
sounded from  every  part  of  the  line,  and  our 
evening  camp  was  always  the  commencement 
of  a  feast,  which  terminated  only  with  our  de- 
parture on  the  following  morning.  At  any  time 
of  the  night  might  be  seen  pieces  of  the  most 
delicate  and  choicest  meat,  roasting  en  appolas, 
on  sticks  around  the  fire,  and  the  guard  were 
never  without  company.  With  pleasant  weather 
and  no  enemy  to  fear,  and  abundance  of  the  most 


32  LIFE    OF    FIIEMOXT. 

excellent  meat,  and  no  scarcity  of  bread  or  to- 
bacco, they  were  enjoying  the  oasis  of  a  voy- 
ageur's  life.  Three  cows  were  killed  to-day. 
Kit  Carson  had  shot  one,  and  was  continuing 
the  chase  in  the  midst  of  another  herd,  when 
his  horse  fell  headlong,  but  sprang  up  and  joined 
the  flying  band.  Though  considerably  hurt,  he 
had  the  good  fortune  to  break  no  bones ;  and 
Maxwell,  who  was  mounted  on  a  fleet  hunter, 
captured  the  runaway  after  a  hard  chase.  He 
was  on  the  point  of  shooting  him,  to  avoid  the 
loss  of  his  bridle,  (a  handsomely  mounted  Span- 
ish one,)  when  he  found  that  his  horse  was  able  to 
come  up  with  him.  Animals  are  frequently  lost 
in  this  way ;  and  it  is  necessary  to  keep  close 
watch  over  them,  in  the  vicinity  of  the  buffalo, 
in  the  midst  of  which  they  scour  off  to  the 
plains,  and  are  rarely  retaken.  One  of  our  mules 
took  a  sudden  freak  into  his  head,  and  joined  a 
neighboring  band  to-day.  As  we  were  not  in  a 
condition  to  lose  horses,  I  sent  several  men  in 
pursuit,  and  remained  in  camp,  in  the  hope  of 
recovering  him ;  but  lost  the  afternoon  to  no 
purpose,  as  we  did  not  see  him  again.  Astro- 
nomical observations  placed  us  in  longitude  100° 
05'  47",  latitude  40°  49'  55". 

"  July  1.  As  we  were  riding  quietly  along  the 
bank,  a  grand  herd  of  buffalo,  some  seven  or  eight 
hundred  in  number,  came  crowding  up  from  the 
river,  where  they  had  been  to  drink,  and  com- 


PKAIRIES.  33 

menced  crossing  the  plain  slowly,  eating  as  they 
went.  The  wind  was  favorable  ;  the  coolness 
of  the  morning  invited  to  exercise  ;  the  ground 
was  apparently  good,  and  the  distance  across 
the  prairie  (two  or  three  miles)  gave  us  a  fine 
opportunity  to  charge  them  before  they  could 
get  among  the  river  hills.  It  was  too  fine  a 
prospect  for  a  chase  to  be  lost ;  and,  halting  for 
a  few  moments,  the  hunters  were  brought  up 
and  saddled,  and  Kit  Carson,  Maxwell,  and 
I  started  together.  They  were  now  somewhat 
less  than  half  a  mile  distant,  and  we  rode  easily 
along  until  within  about  three  hundred  yards, 
when  a  sudden  agitation,  a  wavering  in  the 
band,  and  a  galloping  to  and  fro  of  some  which 
were  scattered  along  the  skirts,  gave  us  the  inti- 
mation that  we  were  discovered.  We  started 
together  at  a  hand  gallop,  riding  steadily  abreast 
of  each  other,  and  here  the  interest  of  the  chase 
became  so  engrossingly  intense,  that  we  were 
sensible  to  nothing  else.  We  were  now  closing 
upon  them  rapidly,  and  the  front  of  the  mass 
was  already  in  rapid  motion  for  the  hills,  and  in 
a  few  seconds  the  movement  had  communicated 
itself  to  the  whole  herd. 

"  A  crowd  of  bulls,  as  usual,  brought  up  the 
rear,  and  every  now  and  then  some  of  them 
faced  about,  and  then  dashed  on  after  the  band 
a  short  distance,  and  turned  and  looked  again, 
as  if  more  than  half  inclined  to  stand  and  fight. 


34  LIFE    OF   FREMONT. 

In  a  few  moments,  however,  during  which  we 
had  been  quickening  our  pace,  the  rout  was  uni- 
versal, and  we  were  going  over  the  ground  like 
a  hurricane.  When  at  about  thirty  yards,  we 
gave  the  usual  shout,  (the  hunter's  battle-cry,) 
and  broke  into  the  herd.  We  entered  on  the 
side,  the  mass  giving  way  in  every  direction  in 
their  heedless  course.  Many  of  the  bulls,  less 
active  and  less  fleet  than  the  cows,  paying  no 
attention  to  the  ground,  and  occupied  solely 
with  the  hunter,  were  precipitated  to  the  earth 
with  great  force,  rolling  over  and  over  with  the 
violence  of  the  shock,  and  hardly  distinguish- 
able in  the  dust.  We  separated  on  entering, 
each  singling  out  his  game. 

"  My  horse  was  a  trained  hunter,  famous  in 
the  west  under  the  name  of  Proveau,  and,  with 
his  eyes  flashing,  and  the  foam  flying  from  his 
mouth,  sprang  on  after  the  cow  like  a  tiger.  In 
a  few  moments  he  brought  me  alongside  of  her, 
and,  rising  in  the  stirrups,  I  fired  at  the  distance 
of  a  yard,  the  ball  entering  at  the  termination 
of  the  long  hair,  and  passing  near  the  heart. 
She  fell  headlong  at  the  report  of  the  gun,  and 
checking  my  horse,  I  looked  around  for  my 
companions.  At  a  little  distance,  Kit  was  on  the 
ground,  engaged  in  tying  his  horse  to  the  horns 
of  a  cow  which  he  was  preparing  to  cut  up. 
Among  the  scattered  bands,  at  some  distance 
below,  I  caught  a  glimpse  of  Maxwell;  and 


PRAIRIES.  35 

while  I  was  looking,  a  light  wreath  of  white 
smoke  curled  away  from  his  gun,  from  \vhich  I 
was  too  far  to  hear  the  report.  Nearer,  and  be- 
tween me  and  the  hills,  towards  which  they 
were  directing  their  course,  was  the  body  of  the 
herd,  and  giving  my  horse  the  rein,  we  dashed 
after  them.  A  thick  cloud  of  dust  hung  upon 
their  rear,  which  filled  my  mouth  and  eyes,  and 
nearly  smothered  me.  In  the  midst  of  this  I 
could  see  nothing,  and  the  buffalo  were  not 
distinguishable  until  within  thirty  feet.  They 
cro\vded  together  more  densely  still  as  I  came 
upon  them,  and  rushed  along  in  such  a  com- 
pact body,  that  I  could  not  obtain  an  entrance, 
— the  horse  almost  leaping  upon  them.  In  a 
few  moments  the  mass  divided  to  the  right  and 
left,  the  horns  clattering  with  a  noise  heard 
above  every  thing  else,  and  my  horse  darted 
into  the  opening.  Five  or  six  bulls  charged  on 
us  as  we  dashed  along  the  line,  but  were  left 
far  behind,  and  singling  out  a  cow,  I  gave  her 
my  fire,  but  struck  too  high.  She  gave  a  tre- 
mendous leap,  and  scoured  on  swifter  than  be- 
fore. I  reined  up  my  horse,  and  the  band  swept 
on  like  a  torrent,  and  left  the  place  quiet  and 
clear.  Our  chase  had  led  us  into  dangerous 
ground.  A  prairie-dog  village,  so  thickly  settled 
that  there  were  three  or  four  holes  in  every 
twenty  yards  square,  occupied  the  whole  bot- 
tom for  nearly  two  miles  in  length.  Looking 


36  LIFE  OF  FREMONT. 

around,  I  saw  only  one  of  the  hunters,  nearly 
out  of  sight,  and  the  long  dark  line  of  our  cara- 
van crawling  along,  three  or  four  miles  distant." 

The  expedition  had  now  reached  the  heart  of 
the  prairie  country,  and  the  report  contains 
graphic  descriptions  of  the  scenery  and  general 
features  of  the  landscape.  The  botanical  rich- 
ness of  these  vast  plains  is  one  of  their  most 
striking  attractions. 

"  Along  our  route  the  amorpha  has  been  in 
very  abundant  but  variable  bloom — in  some 
places,  bending  beneath  the  weight  of  purple 
clusters ;  in  others,  without  a  flower.  It  seems 
to  love  best  the  sunny  slopes,  with  a  dark  soil 
and  southern  exposure.  Everywhere  the  rose  is 
met  with,  and  reminds  us  of  cultivated  gardens 
and  civilization.  It  is  scattered  over  the  prairies 
in  small  bouquets,  and,  when  glittering  in  the 
dews  and  waving  in  the  pleasant  breeze  of  the 
early  morning,  is  the  most  beautiful  of  the  prairie 
flowers.  The  artemisia,  absinthe,  or  prairie  sage, 
as  it  is  variously  called,  is  increasing  in  size,  and 
glitters  like  silver,  as  the  southern  breeze  turns 
up  its  leaves  to  the  sun.  All  these  plants  have 
their  insect  inhabitants,  variously  colored  ;  taking 
generally  the  hue  of  the  flower  on  which  they 
live.  The  artemisia  has  its  small  fly  accompa- 
nying it  through  every  change  of  elevation  and 
latitude ;  and  wherever  I  have  seen  the  asclepias 
tuberosa,  I  have  always  remarked,  too,  on  the 


PRAIRIES.  37 

flower  a  large  butterfly,  so  nearly  resembling  it 
in  color,  as  to  be  distinguishable  at  a  little  dis- 
tance only  by  the  motion  of  its  wings." 

As  they  approached  the  regions  where  danger 
from  Indian  hostility  was  to  be  apprehended, 
the  men  were  practised,  during  the  noon  and 
evening  halts,  at  target-shooting,  and  increased 
vigilance  was  exercised  by  the  guards. 

"  We  had  travelled  thirty-one  miles.  A  heavy 
bank  of  black  clouds  in  the  west  came  on  us 
in  a  storm  between  nine  and  ten,  preceded  by 
a  violent  wind.  The  rain  fell  in  such  torrents 
that  it  was  difficult  to  breathe  facing  the  wind, 
the  thunder  rolled  incessantly,  and  the  whole  sky 
was  tremulous  with  lightning  ;  now  and  then  illu- 
minated by  a  blinding  flash,  succeeded  by  pitchy 
darkness.  Carson  had  the  watch  from  ten  to 
midnight,  and  to  him  had  been  assigned  our 
young  compagnons  de  voyage,  Messrs.  Brant  and 
R.  Benton.  This  was  their  first  night  on  guard, 
and  such  an  introduction  did  not  augur  very 
auspiciously  of  the  pleasures  of  the  expedition. 
Many  things  conspired  to  render  their  situation 
uncomfortable  ;  stories  of  desperate  and  bloody 
Indian  fights  were  rife  in  the  camp  ;  our  position 
was  badly  chosen,  surrounded  on  all  sides  by 
timbered  hollows,  and  occupying  an  area  of  sev- 
eral hundred  feet,  so  that  necessarily  the  guards 
were  far  apart ;  and  now  and  then  I  could  hear 
Randolph,  as  if  relieved  by  the  sound  of  a  voice 

4 


38  LIFE   OF   FREMONT. 

in  the  darkness,  calling  out  to  the  sergeant  of 
the  guard,  to  direct  his  attention  to  some  imagi- 
nary alarm ;  but  they  stood  it  out,  and  took  their 
turn  regularly  afterward." 

The  incidents  of  camp  and  prairie  life  are 
pleasantly  told  in  the  following  passages :  — 

11  July  4.  The  morning  was  very  smoky,  the  sun 
shining  dimly  and  red,  as  in  a  thick  fog.  The 
camp  was  roused  with  a  salute  at  daybreak. 
While  we  were  at  breakfast,  a  buffalo  calf  broke 
through  the  camp,  followed  by  a  couple  of  wolves. 
In  its  fright,  it  had  probably  mistaken  us  for  a 
band  of  buffalo.  The  wolves  were  obliged  to 
make  a  circuit  around  the  camp,  so  that  the  calf 
got  a  little  the  start,  and  strained  every  nerve  to 
reach  a  large  herd  at  the  foot  of  the  hills,  about 
two  miles  distant ;  but  first  one,  and  then  an- 
other, and  another  wolf  joined  in  the  chase,  until 
his  pursuers  amounted  to  twenty  or  thirty,  and 
they  ran  him  down  before  he  could  reach  his 
friends.  There  were  a  few  bulls  near  the  place, 
and  one  of  them  attacked  the  wolves,  and  tried 
to  rescue  him  ;  but  was  driven  oft'  immediately, 
and  the  little  animal  fell  an  easy  prey,  half  de- 
voured before  he  was  dead.  We  watched  the 
chase  with  the  interest  always  felt  for  the  weak  ; 
and  had  there  been  a  saddled  horse  at  hand,  he 
would  have  fared  better. 

"  As  we  were  riding  slowly  along  this  after- 
noon, clouds  of  dust  in  the  ravines,  among  the 


PKAIRIES.  39 

hills  to  the  right,  suddenly  attracted  our  attention, 
and  in  a  few  minutes  column  after  column  of 
buffalo  came  galloping  down,  making  directly  to 
the  river.  By  the  time  the  leading  herds  had 
reached  the  water,  the  prairie  was  darkened  with 
the  dense  masses.  Immediately  before  us,  when 
the  bands  first  came  down  into  the  valley, 
stretched  an  unbroken  line,  the  head  of  which 
was  lost  among  the  river  hills  on  the  opposite 
side  ;  and  still  they  poured  down  from  the  ridge 
on  our  right.  From  hill  to  hill,  the  prairie  bottom 
was  certainly  not  less  than  two  miles  wide ;  and 
allowing  the  animals  to  be  ten  feet  apart,  and 
only  ten  in  a  line,  there  were  already  eleven 
thousand  in  view.  Some  idea  may  thus  be 
formed  of  their  number  when  they  had  occupied 
the  whole  plain.  In  a  short  time  they  surrounded 
us  on  every  side ;  extending  for  several  miles  in 
the  rear,  and  forward  as  far  as  the  eye  could 
reach  ;  leaving  around  us,  as  we  advanced,  an 
open  space  of  only  two  or  three  hundred  yards. 
This  movement  of  the  buffalo  indicated  to  us  the 
presence  of  Indians  on  the  North  fork. 

"  I  halted  earlier  than  usual,  about  forty  miles 
from  the  junction,  and  all  hands  were  soon  busily 
engaged  in  preparing  a  feast  to  celebrate  the  day. 
The  kindness  of  our  friends  at  St.  Louis  had 
provided  us  with  a  large  supply  of  excellent  pre- 
serves and  rich  fruit-cake  ;  and  when  these  were 
added  to  a  macaroni  soup,  and  variously  prepared 


40  LIFE   OF  FREMONT. 

dishes  of  the  choicest  buffalo  meat,  crowned  with 
a  cup  of  coffee,  and  enjoyed  with  prairie  appetite, 
we  felt,  as  we  sat  in  barbaric  luxury  around  our 
smoking  supper  on  the  grass,  a  greater  sensation 
of  enjoyment  than  the  Roman  epicure  at  his 
perfumed  feast.  But  most  of  all  it  seemed  to 
please  our  Indian  friends,  who,  in  the  unre- 
strained enjoyment  of  the  moment,  demanded  to 
know  if  our  "  medicine  days  came 'often." 

The  route  of  the  expedition  had  been  along 
the  southern  side  of  the  Kansas  about  one  hun- 
dred miles,  then  across  that  river ;  after  contin- 
uing some  time  near  its  northern  side,  across  the 
country  to  Grand  Island,  in  the  Platte,  then  along 
the  course  of  that  river  to  the  junction  of  its  north 
and  south  forks,  and  then  up  the  south  fork. 

At  the  distance  of  about  forty  miles  from  the 
junction,  on  the  5th  of  July,  Mr.  Fremont  divided 
his  party.  With  Mr.  Preuss,  Maxwell,  Bernier, 
Ayot,  and  Basil  Lajeunesse,  he  continued  up  the 
course  of  the  south  fork,  taking  with  him  the 
Cheyennes,  as  their  home  was  in  that  direction. 
The  residue  of  the  party  was  placed  under  the 
command  of  Clement  Lambert,  who  was  directed 
to  cross  over  to  the  north  fork,  and  at  some  con- 
venient place,  make  a  cache  of  everything  not 
absolutely  necessary  to  the  further  progress  of 
the  expedition.  It  is  the  custom  of  parties  trav- 
elling far  into  the  wilderness,  at  points  which 
they  expect  to  pass  again  on  their  route,  to  con- 


PRAIRIES.  41 

ceal,  by  burying,  or  in  any  way  covering,  so  as 
to  protect  and  preserve  them,  such  articles  as 
may  be  dispensed  with  in  themean  time.  These 
places  of  hidden  deposit  are  called  caches.  After 
attending  to  this,  Lambert  was  instructed  to 
make  his  way  to  the  American  company's  fort 
at  the  mouth  of  Laramie's  Fork,  and  there  wait 
the  arrival  of  Fremont,  who  designed  to  reach  the 
fort  in  season  to  observe  certain  occupations  that 
were  to  take  place  on  the  nights  of  the  16th  and 
17th  of  July. 

"July  5.  Before  breakfast  all  was  ready.  We 
had  one  led  horse  in  addition  to  those  we  rode, 
and  a  pack  mule,  destined  to  carry  our  instru- 
ments, provisions,  and  baggage  ;  the  last  two 
articles  not  being  of  very  great  \veight.  The 
instruments  consisted  of  a  sextant,  artificial  hor- 
izon, &c.,  a  barometer,  spy-glass,  and  compass. 
The  chronometer  I  of  course  kept  on  my  person. 
I  had  ordered  the  cook  to  put  up  for  us  some 
flour,  coffee,  and  sugar,  and  our  rifles  were  to 
furnish  the  rest.  One  blanket,  in  addition  to  his 
saddle  and  saddle  blanket,  furnished  the  mate- 
rials for  each  man's  bed,  and  every  one  was  pro- 
vided with  a  change  of  linen.  All  were  armed 
with  rifles  or  double-barrelled  guns ;  and,  in  ad- 
dition to  these,  Maxwell  and  myself  were  fur- 
nished with  excellent  pistols.  Thus  accoutred, 
we  took  a  parting  breakfast  with  our  friends,  and 
set  forth. 

4* 


42  LIFE    OF   FREMONT. 

«  Our  journey  the  first  day  afforded  nothing 
of  any  interest.  We  shot  a  buffalo  toward  sun- 
set, and,  having  obtained  some  meat  for  our 
evening  meal,  encamped  where  a  little  timber 
afforded *us  the  means  of  making  a  fire.  Having 
disposed  our  meat  on  roasting  sticks,  we  pro- 
ceeded to  unpack  our  bales  in  search  of  coffee 
and  sugar,  and  flour  for  bread.  With  the  excep- 
tion of  a  little  parched  coffee,  unground,  we 
found  nothing.  Our  cook  had  neglected  to  put 
it  up,  or  it  had  been  somehow  forgotten.  Tired 
and  hungry,  with  tough  bull  meat  without  salt, 
(for  we  had  not  been  able  to  kill  a  cow,)  and  a 
little  bitter  coffee,  we  sat  down  in  silence  to  our 
miserable  fare,  a  very  disconsolate  party ;  for 
yesterday's  feast  was  yet  fresh  in  our  memories, 
and  this  was  our  first  brush  with  misfortune. 
Each  man  took  his  blanket,  and  laid  himself 
down  silently.  To-day  we  had  travelled  about 
thirty-six  miles. 

"  July  6.  Finding  that  our  present  excursion 
would  be  attended  with  considerable  hardship, 
and  unwilling  to  expose  more  persons  than  neces- 
sary, I  determined  to  send  Mr.  Preuss  back  to 
the  party.  His  horse,  too,  appeared  in  no  condi- 
tion to  support  the  journey;  and  accordingly, 
after  breakfast,  he  took  the  road  across  the  hills, 
attended  by  one  of  our  most  trusty  men,  Bernier. 
The  ridge  between  the  rivers  is  here  about  fifteen 
miles  broad,  and  I  expected  he  would  probably 


PRAIRIES.  43 

strike  the  fork  near  their  evening  camp.  At  all 
events,  he  would  not  fail  to  find  their  trail,  and 
rejoin  them  the  next  day." 

After  his  people  had  composed  themselves  for 
the  night,  and  silence  and  slumber  had  fallen 
upon  the  camp,  it  was  the  invariable  practice  of 
the  commander,  when  the  condition  of  the  atmo- 
sphere, the  state  of  the  weather,  and  the  aspect 
of  the  heavens  allowed,  to  get  out  his  instru- 
ments, take  astronomical  observations,  and  deter- 
mine and  record  the  latitude  and  longitude. 

"  My  companions  slept  rolled  up  in  their 
blankets,  and  the  Indians  lay  in  the  grass  near 
the  fire ;  but  my  sleeping-place  generally  had 
an  air  of  more  pretension.  Our  rifles  were  tied 
together  near  the  muzzle,  the  butts  resting  on 
the  ground,  and  a  knife  laid  on  the  rope,  to  cut 
away  in  case  of  an  alarm.  Over  this,  which 
made  a  kind  of  frame,  was  thrown  a  large  In- 
dia rubber  cloth,  which  we  used  to  cover  our 
packs.  This"  made  a  tent  sufficiently  large  to 
receive  about  half  of  my  bed,  and  was  a  place 
of  shelter  for  my  instruments ;  and  as  I  was 
careful  always  to  put  this  part  against  the  wind, 
I  could  lie  here  with  a  sensation  of  satisfied 
enjoyment,  and  hear  the  wind  blow,  and  the 
rain  patter  close  to  my  head,  and  know  that  I 
should  be  at  least  half  dry.  Certainly,  I  never 
slept  more  soundly.  The  barometer  at  sunset 
was  26.010,  thermometer  81°,  and  cloudy ;  but 


44  LIFE   OF   FREMONT. 

a  gale  from  the  west  sprang  up  with  the  setting 
sun,  and  in  a  few  minutes  swept  away  every 
cloud  from  the  sky.  The  evening  was  very  fine, 
and  I  remained  up  to  take  some  astronomical 
observations." 

The  following  passage  brings  the  incidents  of 
wild  prairie  life,  and  some  traits  and  aspects  of 
Indian  character  and  habits,  vividly  before  the 

mind. 

"  There  were  some  dark-looking  objects  among 
the  hills,  about  two  miles  to  the  left,  here  low 
and  undulating,  which  we  had  seen  for  a  little 
time,  and  supposed  to  be  buffalo  coming  in  to 
water;    but,    happening   to  look   behind,   Max- 
well saw  the  Cheyennes  whipping  up  furiously, 
and  another  glance  at  the  dark  objects  showed 
them  at  once  to  be  Indians  coming  up  at  speed. 
"  Had  we  been  well  mounted,  and  disencum- 
bered of  instruments,  we  might  have  set  them 
at    defiance;    but   as   it  was,   we    were    fairly 
caught.     It  was  too  late  to  rejoin  our  friends, 
and  we  endeavored  to  gain  a  clump  of  timber 
about  half  a  mile  ahead ;  but  the  instruments 
and  the  tired  state  of  our  horses  did  not  allow 
us  to  go  faster  than   a  steady  canter,  and  they 
were  gaining  on  us  fast.     At  first  they  did  not 
appear  to   be  more  than   fifteen   or  twenty  in 
number,  but  group  after  group  darted  into  view 
at  the  top  of  the  hills,  until   all  the  little  emi- 
nences seemed  in  motion,  and,  in  a  few  minutes 


PRAIRIES.  45 

from  the  time  they  were  first  discovered,  two  or 
three  hundred,  naked  to  the  breech-cloth,  were 
sweeping  across  the  prairie.  In  a  few  hundred 
yards  we  discovered  that  the  timber  we  were 
endeavoring  to  make  was  on  the  opposite  side 
of  the  river ;  and  before  we  could  reach  the 
bank,  down  came  the  Indians  upon  us. 

"  I  am  inclined  to  think  that  in  a  few  seconds 
more  the  leading  man,  and,  perhaps,  some  of 
his  companions,  would  have  rolled  in  the  dust ; 
for  we  had  jerked  the  covers  from  our  guns, 
and  our  fingers  were  on  the  triggers;  men  in 
such  cases  generally  act  from  instinct,  and  a 
charge  from  three  hundred  naked  savages  is  a 
circumstance  not  well  calculated  to  promote  a 
cool  exercise  of  judgment.  Just  as  he  was 
about  to  fire,  Maxwell  recognized  the  leading 
Indian,  and  shouted  to  him  in  the  Indian  lan- 
guage :  '  You're  a  fool ;  don't  you  know  me  ?  ' 
The  sound  of  his  own  language  seemed  to 
shock  the  savage,  and,  swerving  his  horse  a 
little,  he  passed  us  like  an  arrow.  He  wheeled, 
as  I  rode  out  toward  him,  and  gave  me  his 
hand,  striking  his  breast  and  exclaiming  '  Ara- 
paho ! '  They  proved  to  be  a  village  of  that 
nation  among  whom  Maxwell  had  resided  as  a 
trader  a  year  or  two  previously,  and  recognized 
him  accordingly.  We  were  soon  in  the  midst 
of  the  band,  answering  as  well  as  we  could  a 
multitude  of  questions  ;  of  which  the  very  first 


46  LIFE    OF   FREMONT. 

was,  of  what  tribe  were  our  Indian  companions 
who  were  coming  in  the  rear  ?  They  seemed 
disappointed  to  know  that  they  were  Che- 
yennes,  for  they  had  fully  anticipated  a  grand 
dance  around  a  Pawnee  scalp  that  night." 

The  party  ascended  the  South  Fork,  arriving, 
late  in  the  evening  of  the  10th,  at  St.  Vrain's 
Fort,  which  is  at  the  foot  of  the  mountains, 
about  seventeen  miles  from  Long's  Peak.  On 
the  morning  of  the  12th,  it  started  across  the 
country  in  the  direction  of  Fort  Laramie,  which 
was  reached  by  the  evening  of  the  15th.  They 
passed  on  the  way  some  of  those  wonderful 
natural  formations,  which  the  face  of  the  rocks 
and  outlines  of  the  mountains  often  present  in 
the  interior  of  the  continent. 

"  The  hill  on  the  western  side  imitates,  in 
an  extraordinary  manner,  a  massive  fortified 
place,  with  a  remarkable  fulness  of  detail.  The 
rock  is  marl  and  earthy  limestone,  white,  with- 
out the  least  appearance  of  vegetation,  and 
much  resembles  masonry  at  a  little  distance  ; 
and  here  it  sweeps  around  a  level  area  two  or 
three  hundred  yards  in  diameter,  and  in  the 
form  of  a  half-moon,  terminating  on  either  ex- 
tremity in  enormous  bastions.  Along  the  whole 
line  of  the  parapets  appear  domes  and  slender 
minarets,  forty  or  fifty  feet  high,  giving  it  every 
appearance  of  an  old  fortified  town.  On  the 
waters  of  White  River,  where  this  formation 


FORT   LARAMIE.  47 

exists  in  great  extent,  it  presents  appearances 
which  excite  the  admiration  of  the  solitary 
voyageur,  and  form  a  frequent  theme  of  their 
conversation  when  speaking  of  the  wonders  of 
the  country.  Sometimes  it  offers  the  perfectly 
illusive  appearance  of  a  large  city,  with  numer- 
ous streets  and  magnificent  buildings,  among 
which  the  Canadians  never  fail  to  see  their 
cabaret ;  and  sometimes  it  takes  the  form  of  a 
solitary  house,  with  many  large  chambers,  into 
which  they  drive  their  horses  at  night,  and  sleep 
in  these  natural  defences  perfectly  secure  from 
any  attack  of  prowling  savages.  Before  reach- 
ing our  camp  at  Goshen's  Hole,  in  crossing  the 
immense  detritus  at  the  foot  of  the  Castle  Rock, 
we  were  involved  amidst  winding  passages  cut 
by  the  waters  of  the  hill ;  and  where,  with  a 
breadth  scarcely  large  enough  for  the  passage  of 
a  horse,  the  walls  rise  thirty  and  forty  feet  per- 
pendicularly. This  formation  supplies  the  dis- 
coloration of  the  Platte." 

Upon  reaching  Fort  Laramie,  Fremont  found 
the  residue  of  his  party  there.  They  had  ar- 
rived on  the  evening  of  the  13th.  Mr.  Preuss, 
with  his  companion  Bernier,  had  intercepted 
them  at  the  expected  point.  Some  extracts  from 
Preuss's  journal  will  be  read  with  interest,  and 
prepare  the  mind  to  appreciate  the  energy  and 
decision  of  character  of  Vremont,  and  the  heroic 
fidelity  of  those  of  his  followers  who  resolved  to 


48  LIFE    OF    FREMONT. 

share  with  him  the  now  imminent  dangers  and 
increasing  hardships  of  the  enterprise. 

It  seems  that  after  leaving  Fremont,  on  the 
6th  of  July,  Preuss  and  Bernier  reached  the 
north  fork  of  the  Platte,  in  about  six  hours. 
There  was  no  sign  that  Lambert's  party  had 
passed.  Bernier  rode  down  along  the  river  to 
find  them,  leaving  Preuss,  who  was  too  much 
exhausted  to  accompany  him.  The  night  ap- 
proached and  Bernier  did  not  return.  Of  course 
there  is  always  more  or  less  danger  in  those 
vast  unknown  regions  when  parties  get  sepa- 
rated and  out  of  sight,  and  where  all  are  liable 
to  be  suddenly  cut  off,  of  not  meeting  again. 
Preuss  describes  his  situation  and  feelings  on 
the  occasion :  — 

"  The  sun  went  down  ;  he  did  not  come.  Un- 
easy I  did  not  feel,  but  very  hungry ;  I  had  no 
provisions,  but  I  could  make  a  fire ;  and,  as  I 
espied  two  doves  in  a  tree,  I  tried  to  kill  one ; 
but  it  needs  a  better  marksman  than  myself  to 
kill  a  little  bird  with  a  rifle.  I  made  a  large 
fire,  however,  lighted  my  pipe — this  true  friend 
of  mine  in  every  emergency — lay  down  and  let 
my  thoughts  wander  to  the  far  east.  It  was  not 
many  minutes  after  when  I  heard  the  tramp  of 
a  horse,  and  my  faithful  companion  was  by  my 
side.  He  had  found  the  party,  who  had  been 
delayed  by  making  their  cache,  about  seven 
miles  below.  To  the  good  supper  which  he 


FORT  LABAMIE.  49 

brought  with  him  I  did  ample  justice.  He  had 
forgotten  salt,  and  I  tried  the  soldier's  substitute 
in  time  of  war,  and  used  gunpowder;  but  it 
answered  badly — bitter  enough,  but  no  flavor  of 
kitchen  salt.  I  slept  well;  and  was  only  dis- 
turbed by  two  owls,  which  were  attracted  by  the 
fire,  and  took  their  place  in  the  tree  under  which 
we  slept.  Their  music  seemed  as  disagreeable 
to  my  companion  as  to  myself;  he  fired  his  rifle 
twice,  and  then  they  let  us  alone." 

Under  date  of  July  8,  Pceuss  relates  as  fol- 
lows : — 

"  Our  road  to-day  was  a  solitary  one.  No 
game  made  its  appearance — not  even  a  buffalo 
or  a  stray  antelope ;  and  nothing  occurred  to 
break  the  monotony  until  about  five  o'clock, 
when  the  caravan  made  a  sudden  halt.  There 
was  a  galloping  in  of  scouts  and  horsemen  from 
every  side — a  hurrying  to  and  fro  in  noisy  con- 
fusion ;  rifles  were  taken  from  their  cover ;  bul- 
let pouches  examined ;  in  short,  there  was  the 
cry  of  '  Indians '  heard  again.  I  had  become  so 
much  accustomed  to  these  alarms,  that  now  they 
made  but  little  impression  on  me ;  and  before 
I  had  time  to  become  excited,  the  new-comers 
were  ascertained  to  be  whites.  It  was  a  large 
party  of  traders  and  trappers,  conducted  by  Mr. 
Bridger,  a  man  well  known  in  the  history  of  the 
country.  As  the  sun  was  low,  and  there  was  a 
fine  grass  patch  not  far  ahead,  they  turned  back 
5 


50  LIFE    OF   FREMONT. 

and  encamped  for  the  night  with  us.  Mr.  Bridget 
was  invited  to  supper;  and  we  listened  with 
eager  interest  to  an  account  of  their  adventures. 
What  they  had  met,  we  would  be  likely  to 
encounter ;  the  chances  which  had  befallen  them, 
would  probably  happen  to  us ;  we  looked  upon 
their  life  as  a  picture  of  our  own.  He  informed 
us  that  the  condition  of  the  country  had  become 
exceedingly  dangerous.  The  Sioux,  who  had 
been  badly  disposed,  had  broken  out  into  open 
hostility,  and  in  the  preceding  autumn  his  party 
had  encountered  them  in  a  severe  engagement, 
in  which  a  number  of  lives  had  been  lost  on 
both  sides.  United  with  the  Cheyenne  and  Gros 
Yentre  Indians,  they  were  scouring  the  upper 
country  in  war  parties  of  great  force,  and  were 
at  this  time  in  the  neighborhood  of  the  Red 
Suites,  a  famous  landmark,  which  was  directly  on 
our  path.  They  had  declared  war  upon  every 
living  thing  which  should  be  found  westward 
of  that  point,  though  their  main  object  was 
to  attack  a  large  camp  of  whites  and  Snake 
Indians,  who  had  a  rendezvous  in  the  Sweet- 
water  valley.  Availing  himself  of  his  intimate 
knowledge  of  the  country,  he  had  reached  Lara- 
mie  by  an  unusual  route  through  the  Black  Hills, 
and  avoided  coming  into  contact  with  any  of 
the  scattered  parties.  This  gentleman  offered 
his  services  to  accompany  us  so  far  as  the  head 
of  the  Sweetwater;  but  the  absence  of  our 


FORT    LARAMIE.  51 

leader,  which  was  deeply  regretted  by  us  all, 
rendered  it  impossible  for  us  to  enter  upon  such 
arrangement.  In  a  camp  consisting  of  men 
whose  lives  had  been  spent  in  this  country,  I 
expected  to  find  every  one  prepared  for  occur- 
rences of  this  nature  ;  but,  to  my  great  surprise, 
I  found,  on  the  contrary,  that  this  news  had 
thrown  them  all  into  the  greatest  consternation, 
and  on  every  side  I  heard  only  one  exclamation, 
'  11  n'y  aura  pas  de  vie  pour  nousj — '  There  will 
be  no  more  life  for  us,'  '  our  days  are  numbered.' 
All  the  night,  scattered  groups  were  assembled 
around  the  fires,  smoking  their  pipes,  and  listen- 
ing with  the  greatest  eagerness  to  exaggerated 
details  of  Indian  hostilities ;  and  in  the  morn- 
ing I  found  the  camp  dispirited,  and  agitated  by 
a  variety  of  conflicting  opinions.  A  majority 
of  the  people  were  strongly  disposed  to  return ; 
but  Clement  Lambert,  with  some  five  or  six 
others,  professed  their  determination  to  follow 
Mr.  Fremont  to  the  uttermost  limit  of  his  jour- 
ney. The  others  yielded  to  their  remonstrances, 
and,  somewhat  ashamed  of  their  cowardice, 
concluded  to  advance  at  least  so  far  as  Laramie 
Fork,  eastward  of  which  they  were  aware  no 
danger  was  to  be  apprehended." 

Upon  Fremont's  reaching  the  fort,  a  variety  of 
circumstances,  related  to  him  by  Mr.  Boudeau,  the 
gentleman  in  charge  of  that  station — corrobor- 
ated by  the  testimony  of  all  who  had  means  of 


52  LIFE   OF  FREMONT. 

knowledge — confirmed  the  alarming  statements 
made  by  Mr.  Bridger.  Extracts  from  Fremont's 
Journal  will  enable  the  reader  to  realize  the 
pressure  made  upon  him  at  Fort  Laramie  to 
prevent  the  further  prosecution  of  his  journey  : — 
"  Thus  it  would  appear  that  the  country  was 
swarming  with  scattered  war  parties ;  and  when 
I  heard,  during  the  day,  the -various  contradic- 
tory and  exaggerated  rumors  which  were  inces- 
santly repeated  to  them,  I  was  not  surprised 
that  so  much  alarm  prevailed  among  my  men. 
Carson,  one  of  the  best  and  most  experienced 
mountaineers,  fully  supported  the  opinion  given 
by  Bridger  of  the  dangerous  state  of  the  country, 
and  openly  expressed  his  conviction  that  \ve  could 
not  escape  without  some  sharp  encounters  with 
the  Indians.  In  addition  to  this,  he  made  his 
will ;  and  among  the  circumstances  which  were 
constantly  occurring  to  increase  their  alarm,  this 
was  the  most  unfortunate ;  and  I  found  that  a 
number  of  my  party  had  become  so  much 
intimidated,  that  they  had  requested  to  be  dis- 
charged at  this  place. 

"  So  far  as  frequent  interruption  from  the 
Indians  would  allow,  we  occupied  ourselves  in 
making  some  astronomical  calculations,  and 
bringing  up  the  general  map  to  this  stage  of  our 
journey;  but  the  tent  wTas  generally  occupied  by 
a  succession  of  our  ceremonious  visitors.  Some 
came  for  presents,  and  others  for  information  of 


FORT    LARAMIE.  53 

our  object  in  coming  to  the  country;  now  and 
then,  one  would  dart  up  to  the  tent  on  horseback, 
jerk  off  his  trappings  and  stand  silent  at  the 
door,  holding  his  horse  by  the  halter,  signifying 
his  desire  to  trade ;  occasionally,  a  savage  would 
stalk  in  with  an  invitation  to  a  feast  of  honor, 
a  dog  feast,  and  deliberately  sit  down  and  wait 
quietly  until  I  was  ready  to  accompany  him.  I 
went  to  one ;  the  women  and  children  were  sit- 
ting outside  the  lodge,  and  we  took  our  seats  on 
buffalo  robes  spread  around.  The  dog  was  in  a 
large  pot  over  the  fire,  in  the  middle  of  the  lodge, 
and  immediately  on  our  arrival  was  dished  up 
in  large  wooden  bowls,  one  of  which  was  handed 
to  each.  The  flesh  appeared  very  glutinous, 
with  something  of  the  flavor  and.  appearance  of 
mutton.  Feeling  something  move  behind  me, 
I  looked  round  and  found  that  I  had  taken  my 
seat  among  a  litter  of  fat  young  puppies.  Had 
I  been  nice  in  such  matters  the  prejudices  of 
civilization  might  have  interfered  with  my  tran- 
quillity; but,  fortunately,  I  am  not  of  delicate 
nerves,  and  continued  quietly  to  'empty  my 
platter. 

"  During  our  stay  here,  the  men  had  been 
engaged  in  making  numerous  repairs,  arranging 
pack-saddles,  and  otherwise  preparing  for  the 
chances  of  a  rough  road  and  mountain  travel. 
All  things  of  this  nature  being  ready,  I  gathered 
them  around  me  in  the  evening,  and  told  them 
5* 


54  LIFE    OP   FREMONT. 

that '  I  had  determined  to  proceed  the  next  day. 
They  were  all  well  armed.  I  had  engaged  the 
services  of  Mr.  Bissonette  as  interpreter,  and 
had  taken,  in  the  circumstances,  every  possible 
means  to  insure  our  safety.  In  the  rumors  we 
had  heard,  I  believed  there  was  much  exaggera- 
tion ;  and  then,  they  were  men  accustomed  to 
this  kind  of  life  and  to  the  country ;  and  that 
these  were  the  dangers  of  every  day  occurrence, 
and  to  be  expected  in  the  ordinary  course  of 
their  service.  They  had  heard  of  the  unsettled 
condition  of  the  country  before  leaving  St. 
Louis,  and  therefore  could  not  make  it  a  reason 
for  breaking  their  engagements.  Still,  I  was 
unwilling  to  take  with  me,  on  a  service  of  some 
certain  danger,  men  on  whom  I  could  not  rely; 
and  as  I  had  understood  that  there  were  among 
them  some  who  were  disposed  to  cowardice,  and 
anxious  to  return,  they  had  but  to  come  forward 
at  once,  and  state  their  desire,  and  they  would 
be  discharged  with  the  amount  due  to  them  for 
the  time  they  had  served.'  To  their  honor  be 
it  said,  there  was  but  one  among  them  who  had 
the  face  to  come  forward  and  avail  himself 
of  the  permission.  I  did  not  think  that  the 
situation  of  the  country  justified  me  in  taking 
our  young  companions,  Messrs.  Brant  and  Benton, 
along  with  us.  In  case  of  misfortune,  it  would 
have  been  thought,  at  the  least,  an  act  of  great 
imprudence;  and  therefore,  though  reluctantly, 


FORT  LARAMIE.  Ot> 

I  determined  to  leave  them.  Randolph  had 
been  the  life  of  the  camp,  and  the  petit  gargon, 
was  much  regretted  by  the  men,  to  whom  his 
buoyant  spirits  had  afforded  great  amusement. 
They  all,  however,  agreed  in  the  propriety  of 
leaving  him  at  the  fort,  because,  as  they  said,  he 
might  cost  the  lives  of  some  of  the  men  in  a 
fight  with  the  Indians. 

"  We  were  ready  to  depart ;  the  tents  were 
struck,  the  mules  geared  up,  and  our  horses 
saddled,  and  we  walked  up  to  the  fort  to  take 
the  stirrup-cup  with  our  friends  in  an  excellent 
home-brewed  preparation.  While  thus  pleasantly 
engaged,  seated  in  one  of  the  little  cool  chambers, 
at  the  door  of  which  a  man  had  been  stationed 
to  prevent  all  intrusion  from  the  Indians,  a  number 
of  chiefs,  several  of  them  powerful  fine-looking 
men,  forced  their  way  into  the  room  in  spite  of 
all  opposition.  Handing  me  the  following  letter, 
they  took  their  seats  in  silence  : — 

TORT  PLATTE,  July  1,  1842. 

'  MR.  FREMONT  :  The  chiefs  having  assembled 
in  council,  have  just  told  me  to  warn  you  not  to 
set  out  before  the  party  of  young  men  which 
is  now  out  shall  have  returned.  Furthermore, 
they  tell  me  that  they  are  very  sure  they  will  fire 
upon  you  as  soon  as  they  meet  you.  They  are 
expected  back  in  seven  or  eight  days.  Excuse 
me  for  making  these  observations,  but  it  seems 


56  LIFE    OF   FREMONT. 

my  duty  to  warn  you  of  danger.  Moreover, 
the  chiefs  who  prohibit  your  setting  out  be- 
fore the  return  of  the  warriors  are  the  bearers  of 
this  note. 

'  I  am  your  obedient  servant, 

'JOSEPH    BlSSONETTE, 

'  By  L.  B.  CHARTRAIN. 

« Names  of  some  of  the  chiefs.  The  Otter  Hat, 
the  Breaker  of  Arrows,  the  Black  Night,  the 
Bull's  Tail.' 

"  After  reading  this,  I  mentioned  its  purport  to 
my  companions  ;  and,  seeing  that  all  were  fully 
possessed  of  its  contents,  one  of  the  Indians  rose 
up,  and  having  first  shaken  hands  with  me, 
spoke  as  follows  : — 

'  You  have  come  among  us  at  a  bad  time. 
Some  of  our  people  have  been  killed,  and  our 
young  men,  who  are  gone  to  the  mountains,  are 
eager  to  avenge  the  blood  of  their  relations, 
which  has  been  shed  by  the  whites.  Our  young 
men  are  bad,  and,  if  they  meet  you,  they  will 
believe  that  you  are  carrying  goods  and  ammu- 
nition to  their  enemies,  and  will  fire  upon  you. 
You  have  told  us  that  this  will  make  war.  We 
know  that  our  great  father  has  many  soldiers 
and  big  guns,  and  we  are  anxious  to  have  our 
lives.'  We  love  the  whites,  and  are  desirous  of 
peace.  Thinking  of  all  these  things,  we  have 
determined  to  keep  you  here  until  our  warriors 


FORT   LARAMIE.  57 

return.  We  are  glad  to  see  you  among  us.  Our 
father  is  rich,  and  we  expected  that  you  would 
have  brought  presents  to  us — horses,  and  guns, 
and  blankets.  But  we  are  glad  to  see  you.  We 
look  upon  your  coming  as  the  light  which  goes 
before  the  sun  ;  for  you  will  tell  our  great  father 
that  you  have  seen  us,  and  that  we  are  naked 
and  poor,  and  have  nothing  to  eat ;  and  he  will 
send  us  all  these  things.'  He  was  followed  by 
the  others  to  the  same  effect. 

"  The  observations  of  the  savage  appeared 
reasonable  ;  but  I  was  aware  that  they  had  in 
view  only  the  present  object  of  detaining  me, 
and  were  unwilling  I  should  go  further  into  the 
country.  In  reply,  I  asked  them,  through  the 
interpretation  of  Mr.  Boudeau,  to  select  two  or 
three  of  their  number  to  accompany  us  until  we 
should  meet  their  people — they  should  spread 
their  robes  in  my  tent  and  eat  at  my  table,  and 
on  our  return  I  would  give  them  presents  in 
reward  of  their  services.  They  declined,  saying 
that  there  were  no  young  men  left  in  the  village, 
and  that  they  were  too  old  to  travel  so  many 
days  on  horseback,  and  preferred  now  to  smoke 
their  pipes  in  the  lodge,  and  let  the  warriors  go 
on  the  war-path.  Besides,  they  had  no  power 
over  the  young  men,  and  were  afraid  to  interfere 
with  them.  In  my  turn  I  addressed  them : 
'  You  say  that  you  love  the  whites  ;  why  have 
you  killed  so  many  already  this  spring  ?  You 


58  LIFE    OF    FREMONT. 

say  that  you  love  the  whites,  and  are  full  of 
many  expressions  of  friendship  to  us ;  but  you 
are  not  willing  to  undergo  the  fatigue  of  a  few 
days'  ride  to  save  our  lives.  We  do  not  believe 
what  you  have  said,  and  will  not  listen  to  you. 
Whatever  a  chief  among  us  tells  his  soldiers  to 
do,  is  done.  We  are  the  soldiers  of  the  great 
chief,  your  father.  He  has  told  us  to  come  here 
and  see  this  country,  and  all  the  Indians,  his 
children.  Why  should  we  not  go  ?  Before  we 
came,  we  heard  that  you  had  killed  his  people, 
and  ceased  to  be  his  children ;  but  we  came 
among  you  peaceably,  holding  out  our  hands. 
Now  we  find  that  the  stories  we  heard  are  not 
lies,  and  that  you  are  no  longer  his  friends  and 
children.  We  have  thrown  away  our  bodies,  and 
u-Ul  not  turn  back.  When  you  told  us  that  your 
young  men  would  kill  us,  you  did  not  know  that 
our  hearts  were  strong,  and  you  did  not  see  the 
rifles  which  my  young  men  carry  in  their  hands. 
We  are  few,  and  you  are  many,  and  may  kill 
us  all ;  but  there  will  be  much  crying  in  your 
villages,  for  many  of  your  young  men  will  stay 
behind,  and  forget  to  return  with  your  warriors 
from  the  mountains.  Do  you  think  that  our 
great  chief  will  let  his  soldiers  die,  and  forget 
to  cover  their  graves  ?  Before  the  snows  melt 
again,  his  warriors  will  sweep  away  your  villages 
as  the  fire  does  the  prairie  in  the  autumn.  See ! 
I  have  pulled  down  my  white  houses,  and  my 


FOKT    LARAMIE.  59 

people  are  ready;  when  the  sun  is  ten  paces 
higher,  we  shall  be  on  the  march.  If  you  have 
any  thing  to  tell  us,  you  will  say  it  soon.'  I 
broke  up  the  conference,  as  I  could  do  nothing 
with  these  people;  and,  being  resolved  to  pro- 
ceed, nothing  was  to  be  gained  by  delay.  Accom- 
panied by  our  hospitable  friends,  we  returned  to 
the  camp.  We  had  mounted  our  horses,  and 
our  parting  salutations  had  been  exchanged, 
when  one  of  the  chiefs  (the  Bull's  Tail)  arrived 
to  tell  me  that  they  had  determined  to  send  a 
young  man  with  us  ;  and  if  I  would  point  out 
the  place  of  our  evening  camp,  he  should  join  us 
there.  '  The  young  man  is  poor,'  said  he ;  'he 
has  no  horse,  and  expects  you  to  give  him  one.' 
I  described  to  him  the  place  where  I  intended  to 
encamp,  and,  shaking  hands,  in  a  few  minutes 
we  were  among  the  hills,  and  this  last  habitation 
of  whites  shut  out  from  our  view." 

The  intrepid  resolution  evinced  by  Fremont 
on  this  occasion  is  truly  remarkable.  He  was  a 
young  man,  and  life  had  charms  and  ties  as 
strong  as  ever  could  have  appealed,  in  any  heart, 
to  the  motives  of  self-preservation.  A  fond  wife, 
and  a  dependent  and  devoted  mother,  were 
anxiously  awaiting  his  safe  return.  There  was 
ample  justification,  had  he  concluded  to  return. 
Indians,  traders,  hunters,  his  own  people,  even 
the  stoutest  of  them  all,  conspired  with  one  voice 
to  implore  him  not  to  expose  him  and  them  to 


60  LIFE   OF   FREMONT. 

what  they  regarded  as  all  but  certain  death.  It 
is,  indeed,  hard  to  tell  upon  what  principles,  or 
by  what  processes  of  reasoning,  he  was  led  to 
his  inflexible  determination.  Like  many  other 
instances  in  his  history,  it  illustrates  an  extraor- 
dinary sagacity  and  firmness  of  mind.  He  often 
exhibited  similar  daring,  and  was  always  justi- 
fied by  the  result.  The  decision  at  Fort  Lara- 
mie  was  the  turning-point  in  his  destiny.  If  he 
had  yielded  to  the  fears  that  had  overcome  all 
other  minds,  failure  would  have  been  stamped 
upon  him  forever.  But  as  it  was,  he  won  the 
glory  of  inflexible  and  invincible  resolution  in 
the  hearts  of  his  admiring  followers,  and  gave  to 
the  savages  and  all  others  who  dealt  with  him 
an  impression  they  ever  after  retained,  that  he 
was  indeed  a  BRAVE,  and  that  nothing  could 
prevent  his  accomplishing  whatever  he  undertook. 
At  Fort  Laramie,  an  Indian  lodge,  about 
eighteen  feet  in  diameter,  and  twenty  in  height, 
was  procured  in  place  of  the  tents,  which  had 
been  found  too  thin  to  protect  the  instruments 
from  the  penetrating  rains,  or  to  withstand  the 
violent  winds  prevalent  in  that  region.  These 
lodges  constitute  a  warm  and  dry  shelter  in  cold 
and  storms,  and  are  so  constructed  as  to  allow 
the  lower  part  of  the  sides  to  be  lifted  up,  per- 
mitting the  breeze  to  pass  freely  through  them 
in  warm  weather.  They  are  particularly  com- 
fortable, then,  as  mosquitoes  are  never  known  to 


PLATTE   RIVER.  61 

enter  them.  At  the  encampment,  on  the  close 
of  the  first  day's  march,  while  the  men  were 
busily  attempting  to  put  up  the  lodge,  Mr.  Bis- 
sonette,  a  trader  resident  at  Fort  Laramie,  who 
had  agreed  to  accompany  the  party  to  a  limited 
point,  overtook  them.  The  Indian  who  had 
been  engaged  as  a  guide,  accompanied  by  his 
wife,  came  in  with  Mr.  Bissonette.  Upon  seeing 
the  men  engaged  in  their  unaccustomed  work, 
attempting  to  put  up  the  lodge,  she  laughed 
heartily  at  their  awkwardness,  at  once  took  hold 
herself,  and  pitched  it  with  an  expertness  which 
it  was  some  time  before  they  learned  to  equal. 

The  point  where  the  Platte  leaves  the  Black 
Hills,  presents  a  most  remarkable  and  beautiful 
scene.  The  breadth  of  the  stream,  generally 
occupying  nearly  the  whole  width  of  the  chasm 
through  which  it  flows,  is  from  two  to  three 
hundred  feet.  The  wall  on  each  side  is  of  per- 
pendicular rock,  sometimes  even  overhanging, 
of  a  bright  red  color,  from  two  to  four  hundred 
feet  high,  crowned'with  green  summits,  fringed 
with  occasional  pines.  The  river  flows  through 
with  a  swift  stream  of  perfectly  clear  water, 
occasionally  broken  into  rapids. 

Here,  as  in  all  other  portions  of  those  vast 
plains,  the  surface  of  the  fields  is  often  covered 
with  thickly  set  clumps  of  artemisia,  and  the 
whole  air  is  saturated  with  the  odor  of  camphor 
and  spirits  of  turpentine  proceeding  from  that 

6 


62  LIFE   OF   FREMONT. 

plant.  The  aromatic  fragrance  is  found  favor- 
'able  to  the  restoration  of  invalids,  particularly  to 
persons  threatened  with  consumptive  complaints. 

"July  28.  We  continued  our  way,  and  four 
miles  beyond  the  ford  Indians  were  discovered 
again ;  and  I  halted  while  a  party  was  sent  for- 
ward to  ascertain  who  they  were.  In  a  short 
time  they  returned,  accompanied  by  a  number 
of  Indians  of  the  Oglallah  band  of  Sioux.  They 
gave  us  a  very  discouraging  picture  of  the  coun- 
try. The  great  drought,  and  the  plague  of 
grasshoppers,  had  swept  it  so  that  scarce  a  blade 
of  grass  was  to  be  seen,  and  there  was  not  a 
buffalo  to  be  found  in  the  whole  region.  Their 
people,  they  further  said,  had  been  nearly  starved 
to  death,  and  we  would  find  their  road  marked 
by  lodges  which  they  had  thrown  away  in  order 
to  move  more  rapidly,  and  by  the  carcasses  of 
the  horses  which  they  had  eaten,  or  which  had 
perished  by  starvation.  Such  was  the  prospect 
before  us. 

"  When  he  had  finished  the  interpretation  of 
these  things,  Mr.  Bissonette  immediately  rode  up 
to  me,  and  urgently  advised  that  I  should  en- 
tirely abandon  the  further  prosecution  of  my  ex- 
ploration. '  The  best  advice  I  can  give  you,  is 
to  turn  back  at  once.'  It  was  his  own  intention 
to  return,  as  we  had  now  reached  the  point  to 
which  he  had  engaged  to  attend  me.  In  reply, 
I  called  up  my  men,  and  communicated  to  them 


PLATTE    RIVER.  63 

fully  the  information  I  had  just  received.  I  then 
expressed  to  them  my  fixed  determination  to 
proceed  to  the  end  of  the  enterprise  on  which  I 
had  been  sent ;  but  as  the  situation  of  the  coun- 
try gave  me  some  reason  to  apprehend  that  it 
might  be  attended  \vith  an  unfortunate  result  to 
some  of  us,  I  would  leave  it  optional  with  them 
to  continue  with  me  or  to  return. 

"  Among  them  were  some  five  or  six  who  I 
knew  would  remain.  We  had  still  ten  days' 
provisions ;  and,  should  no  game  be  found,  when 
this  stock  was  expended,  we  had  our  horses  and 
mules,  which  we  could  eat  when  other  means  of 
subsistence  failed.  But  not  a  man  flinched  from 
the  undertaking.  '  We'll  eat  the  mules,'  said 
Basil  Lajeunesse  ;  and  thereupon  we  shook  hands 
with  our  interpreter  and  his  Indians,  and  parted. 
With  them  I  sent  back  one  of  my  men,  Dumes, 
whom  the  effects  of  an  old  wound  in  the  leg 
rendered  incapable  of  continuing  the  journey  on 
foot,  and  his  horse  seemed  on  the  point  of  giving 
out.  Having  resolved  to  disencumber  ourselves 
immediately  of  everything  not  absolutely  neces- 
sary to  our  future  operations,  I  turned  directly  in 
toward  the  river,  and  encamped  on  the  left  bank,  a 
little  above  the  place  where  our  council  had  been 
held,  and  where  a  thick  grove  of  willows  offered 
a  suitable  spot  for  the  object  I  had  in  view. 

"  The  carts  having  been  discharged,  the  covers 
and  wheels  were  taken  off,  and,  with  the  frames, 


64  LIFE    OF   FREMONT. 

carried  into  some  low  places  among  the  willows, 
and  concealed  in  the  dense  foliage  in  such  a  man- 
ner that  the  glitter  of  the  iron  work  might  not 
attract  the  observation  of  some  straggling  Indian. 
In  the  sand,  which  had  been  blown  up  into  waves 
among  the  willows,  a  large  hole  was  then  dug, 
ten  feet  square  and  six  deep.  In  the  mean  time, 
all  our  effects  had  been  spread  out  upon  the 
ground,  and  whatever  was  designed  to  be  carried 
along  with  us  separated  and  laid  aside,  and  the 
remaining  part  carried  to  the  hole  and  carefully 
covered  up.  As  much  as  possible,  all  traces  of 
our  proceedings  were  obliterated,  and  it  wanted 
but  a  rain  to  render  our  cache  safe  beyond 
discovery.  All  the  men  were  now  set  at  work  to 
arrange  the  pack-saddles  and  make  up  the  packs. 
"  The  day  was  very  warm  and  calm,  and  the 
sky  entirely  clear,  except  where,  as  usual  along 
the  summits  of  the  mountainous  ridge  opposite, 
the  clouds  had  congregated  in  masses.  Our 
lodge  had  been  planted,  and,  on  account  of  the 
heat,  the  ground-pins  had  been  taken  out,  and 
the  lower  part  slightly  raised.  Near  to  it  was 
standing  the  barometer,  which  swung  in  a  tripod 
frame ;  and  within  the  lodge,  where  a  small  fire 
had  been  built,  Mr.  Preuss  was  occupied  in  ob- 
serving the  temperature  of  boiling  water.  At  this 
instant,  and  without  any  warning,  until  it  was 
within  fifty  yards,  a  violent  gust  of  wind  dashed 
down  the  lodge,  burying  under  it  Mr.  Preuss  and 


SOUTH  PASS.  65 

• 

about  a  dozen  men,  who  had  attempted  to  keep 
it  from  being  carried  away.  I  succeeded  in  sav- 
ing the  barometer,  which  the  lodge  was  carrying 
off  with  itself,  but  the  thermometer  was  broken." 

On  the  return  of  the  party,  a  month  after- 
wards, this  cache  was  found  unmolested. 

Following  up  the  Platte,  they  passed  the  lofty 
escarpments  of  red  argillaceous  sandstone,  called 
the  Red  Buttes.  The  Hot  Spring  Gate  is  about 
four  hundred  yards  in  length.  The  river  flows 
through  with  a  quiet  and  even  current.  On  each 
side  is  a  smooth  green  shelf  of  prairie.  The 
walls  are  of  white  sandstone,  rise  perpendicularly, 
and  are  about  seventy  yards  apart.  The  height 
of  the  lower  one  of  the  two  was  found  to  be 
three  hundred  and  sixty  feet. 

On  the  31st  of  July  they  left  the  Platte,  and 
crossed  to  the  Sweetvvater  River.  The  next  day 
they  reached  the  vicinity  of  Rock  Independence, 
an  isolated  mass  of  granite,  about  six  hundred 
and  fifty  yards  long,  and  forty  high.  A  few 
.miles  further  is  the  Devil's  Gate.  The  length  of 
the  passage  is  about  three  hundred  yards,  and  its 
width  thirty-five  yards.  The  walls  are  vertical, 
of  granite,  about  four  hundred  feet  in  height. 
On  the  8th  -of  August  they  entered  the  SOUTH 
PASS. 

"  About  six  miles  from  our  encampment 
brought  us  to  the  summit.  The  ascent  had  been 
so  gradual,  that,  with  ah1  the  intimate  knowledge 


66  LIFE    OF   FREMONT. 

possessed  by  Carson,  who  had  made  this  country 
his  home  for  seventeen  years,  we  were  obliged  to 
watch  very  closely  to  find  the  place  at  which  we 
had  reached  the  culminating  point,     This  was 
between  two  low  hills,  rising  on  either  hand  fifty 
or  sixty  feet.     When  I  looked  back  at  them,  from 
the  foot  of  the  immediate  slope  on  the  western 
plain,  their  summits  appeared  to  be   about  one 
hundred  and  twenty  feet  above.     From  the  im- 
pression on   my  mind  at  this  time,  and  subse- 
quently on   our  return,   I  should  compare   the 
elevation  which  we  surmounted  immediately  at 
the  Pass,  to  the  ascent  of  the  Capitol  hill  from 
the  avenue  at  Washington.     It  is  difficult  forme 
to  fix  positively  the  breadth  of  this  pass.     From 
the  broken  ground  where  it  commences,  at  the 
foot  of  the  Wind  River  chain,  the  view  to  the 
southeast  is  over  a  champaign  country,  broken, 
at  the  distance  of  nineteen  miles,  by  the  Table 
Rock;  which,  with  the  other  isolated  hills  in  its 
vicinity,  seems  to  stand  on  a  comparative  plain. 
This  I  judged  to  be  its  termination,  the  ridge 
recovering  its  rugged  character  with  the  Table 
Rock.     It  will  be  seen  that  it  in  no  manner  re- 
sembles the  places  to  which  the  term  is  common- 
ly applied;  nothing  of  the  gorge-like  character 
and  winding  ascents  of  the  Alleghany  passes  in 
America ;  nothing  of  the  Great  St.  Bernard  and 
Simplon    passes    in    Europe.     Approaching    it 
from  the  mouth  of  the    Sweetwater,  a   sandy 


ROCKY   MOUNTAINS.  67 

plain,  one  hundred  and  twenty  miles  long,  con- 
ducts by  a  gradual  and  regular  ascent,  to  the 
summit,  about  seven  thousand  feet  above  the 
sea ;  and  the  traveller,  without  being  reminded 
of  any  change  by  toilsome  ascents,  suddenly 
finds  himself  on  the  waters  which  flow  to  the 
Pacific  Ocean.  By  the  route  we  had  travelled, 
the  distance  from  Fort  Laramie  is  three  hundred 
and  twenty  miles,  or  nine  hundred  and  fifty  from 
the  mouth  of  the  Kansas." 

From  the  South  Pass,  the  route  continued  be- 
hind, or  to  the  westward  of  the  Wind  River 
Mountains,  among  the  head  streams  of  the  Colo- 
rado. But  here  Fremont  must  be  allowed  to 
tell  his  own  story  : — 

"August  10.  The  air  at  sunrise  is  clear  and 
pure,  and  the  morning  extremely  cold,  but  beau- 
tiful. A  lofty  snow  peak  of  the  mountain  is 
glittering  in  the  first  rays  of  the  sun,  which  has 
not  yet  reached  us.  The  long  mountain  wall  to 
the  east  rising  two  thousand  feet  abruptly  from 
the  plain,  behind  which  we  see  the  peaks,  is  still 
dark,  and  cuts  clear  against  the  glowing  sky.  A 
fog,  just  risen  from  the  river,  lies  along  the  base 
of  the  mountain.  A  little  before  sunrise  the 
thermometer  was  at  35°,  and  at  sunrise  33°. 
Water  froze  last  night,  and  fires  are  very  com- 
fortable. The  scenery  becomes  hourly  more 
interesting  and  grand,  and  the  view  here  is  truly 
magnificent ;  but,  indeed,  it  needs  something  to 


68  LIFE   OF   FREMOXT. 

repay  the  long  prairie  journey  of  a  thousand 
miles.  The  sun  has  just  shot  above  the  wall, 
and  makes  a  magical  change.  The  whole  valley 
is  glowing  and  bright,  and  all  the  mountain 
peaks  are  gleaming  like  silver.  Though  these 
snow  mountains  are  not  the  Alps,  they  have 
their  own  character  of  grandeur  and  magnifi- 
cence, and  will  doubtless  find  pens  and  pencils 
to  do  them  justice.  In  the  scene  before  us,  we 
feel  how  much  wood  improves  a  view.  The 
pines  on  the  mountain  seemed  to  give  it  much 
additional  beauty.  I  was  agreeably  disappointed 
in  the  character  of  the  streams  on  this  side  of 
the  ridge.  Instead  of  the  creeks,  which  descrip- 
tion had  led  me  to  expect,  I  find  bold,  broac? 
streams,  with  three  or  four  feet  water,  and  ? 
rapid  current.  The  fork  on  which  we  are  er 
camped  is  upwards  of  a  hundred  feet  wide, 
timbered  with  groves  or  thickets  of  the  low  wil- 
low. We  were  now  approaching  the  loftiest 
part  of  the  Wind  River  chain ;  and  I  left  the 
valley  a  few  miles  from  our  encampment,  intend- 
ing to  penetrate  the  mountains  as  far  as  possible 
with  the  whole  party.  We  were  soon  involved 
in  very  broken  ground,  among  long  ridges  cov- 
ered with  fragments  of  granite.  Winding  our 
way  up  a  long  ravine,  we  came  unexpectedly  in 
view  of  a  most  beautiful  lake,  set  like  a  gem  in 
the  mountains.  The  sheet  of  water  lay  trans- 
versely across  the  direction  we  had  been  pursu- 


ROCKY   MOUNTAINS.  69 

ing;  and,  descending  the  steep,  rocky  ridge, 
where  it  was  necessary  to  lead  our  horses,  we 
followed  its  banks  to  the  southern  extremity. 
Here  a  view  of  the  utmost  magnificence  and 
grandeur  burst  upon  our  eyes.  With  nothing 
between  us  and  their  feet  to  lessen  the  effect 
of  the  whole  height,  a  grand  bed  of  snow- 
capped mountains  rose  before  us,  pile  upon  pile, 
glowing  in  the  bright  light  of  an  August  day. 
Immediately  below  them  lay  the  lake,  between 
two  ridges,  covered  A\dth  dark  pines,  which  swept 
down  from  the  main  chain  to  the  spot  where  we 
stood.  Here,  where  the  lake  glittered  in  the 
open  sunlight,  its  banks  of  yellow  sand  and  the 
light  foliage  of  aspen  groves  contrasted  well  with 
the  gloomy  pines.  '  Never  before,'  said  Mr. 
Preuss,  '  in  this  country  or  in  Europe,  have  I 
seen  such  magnificent,  grand  rocks.'  I  was  so 
much  pleased  with  the  beauty  of  the  place,  that 
I  determined  to  make  the  main  camp  here,  where 
our  animals  would  find  good  pasturage,  and  ex- 
plore the  mountains,  with  a  small  party  of  men. 
Proceeding  a  little  further,  we  came  suddenly 
upon  the  outlet  of  the  lake,  where  it  found  its 
way  through  a  narrow  passage  between  low  hills. 
Dark  pines,  which  overhung  the  stream,  and 
masses  of  rock,  where  the  water  foamed  along, 
gave  it  much  romantic  beauty.  Where  we 
crossed,  which  was  immediately  at  the  outlet,  it 
is  two  hundred  and  fifty  feet  wide,  and  so  deep 


70  LIFE   OF  FREMONT. 

that  with  difficulty  we  were  able  to  ford  it.  Its 
bed  was  an  accumulation  of  rocks,  boulders,  and 
broad  slabs,  and  large  angular  fragments,  among 
which  the  animals  fell  repeatedly. 

"  The  current  was  very  swift,  and  the  water 
cold,  and  of  a  crystal  purity.  In  crossing  this 
stream,  I  met  with  a  great  misfortune  in  having 
my  barometer  broken.  It  was  the  only  one.  A 
great  part  of  the  interest  of  the  journey  for  me 
was  in  the  exploration  of  these  mountains,  of 
which  so  much  had  been  said  that  was  doubtful 
and  contradictory ;  and  now  their  snowy  peaks 
rose  majestically  before  me,  and  the  only  means 
of  giving  them  authenticaUy  to  science,  the 
object  of  my  anxious  solicitude  by  night  and 
day,  was  destroyed.  We  had  brought  this  ba- 
rometer in  safety  a  thousand  miles,  and  broke  it 
almost  among  the  snow  of  the  mountains.  The 
loss  was  felt  by  the  whole  camp — all  had  seen 
my  anxiety,  and  aided  me  in  preserving  it.  The 
height  of  these  mountains,  considered  by  the 
hunters  and  traders  the  highest  in  the  whole 
range,  had  been  a  theme  of  constant  discus- 
sion among  them ;  and  all  had  looked  forward 
with  pleasure  to  the  moment  when  the  instru- 
ment, which  they  believed  to  be  true  as  the  sun, 
should  stand  upon  the  summits,  and  decide  their 
disputes.  Their  grief  was  only  inferior  to  my 
own. 

"As  soon  as  the  camp  was  formed,  I  set  about 


ROCKY  MOUNTAINS.  71 

endeavoring  to  repair  my  barometer.  As  I  have 
already  said,  this  was  a  standard  cistern-barome- 
ter, of  Tronghton's  construction.  The  glass 
cistern  had  been  broken  about  midway ;  but  as 
the  instrument  had  been  kept  in  a  proper  posi- 
tion, no  air  had  found  its  way  into  the  tube,  the 
end  of  which  had  always  remained  covered.  I 
had  with  me  a  number  of  vials  of  tolerably 
thick  glass,  some  of  which  were  of  the,  same 
diameter  as  the  cistern,  and  1  spent  the  day  in 
slowly  working  on  these,  endeavoring  to  cut 
them  of  the  requisite  length  ;  but  as  my  instru- 
ment was  a  very  rough  file,  I  invariably  broke 
them.  A  groove  was  cut  in  one  of  the  trees, 
where  the  barometer  was  placed  during  the 
night,  to  be  out  of  the  way  of  any  possible  dan- 
ger, and  in  the  morning  I  commenced  again. 
Among  the  powder-horns  in  the  camp,  I  found 
one  which  was  very  transparent,  so  that  its  con- 
tents could  be  almost  as  plainly  seen  as  through 
glass.  This  I  boiled  and  stretched  on  a  piece  of 
wood  to  the  requisite  diameter,  and  scraped  it 
very  thin,  in  order  to  increase  to  the  utmost  its 
transparency.  I  then  secured  it  firmly  in  its 
place  on  the  instrument,  with  strong  glue  made 
from  a  buffalo,  and  filled  it  with  mercury,  prop- 
erly heated.  A  piece  of  skin,  which  had  covered 
one  of  the  vials,  furnished  a  good  pocket,  which 
was  well  secured  with  strong  thread  and  glue, 
and  then  the  brass  cover  was  screwed  to  its 


72  LIFE    OF    FREMONT. 

place.  The  instrument  was  left  some  time  to 
dry  ;  and  when  I  reversed  it,  a  few  hours  after,  I 
had  the  satisfaction  to  find  it  in  perfect  order;  its 
indications  being  about  the  same  as  on  the  other 
side  of  the  lake  before  it  had  been  broken.  Our 
success  in  this  little  incident  diffused  pleasure 
throughout  the  camp ;  and  we  immediately  set 
about  our  preparations  for  ascending  the  moun- 
tains., 

"  I  was  desirous  to  keep  strictly  within  the 
scope  of  my  instructions ;  and  it  would  have 
required  ten  or  fifteen  additional  days  for  the 
accomplishment  of  this  object ;  our  animals  had 
become  very  much  worn  out  with  the  length  of 
the  journey  ;  game  was  very  scarce  ;  and,  though 
it  does  not  appear  in  the  course  of  the  narrative, 
(as  I  have  avoided  dwelling  upon  trifling  inci- 
dents not  connected  with  the  objects  of  the  ex- 
pedition,) the  spirits  of  the  men  had  been  much 
exhausted  by  the  hardships  and  privations  to 
which  they  had  been  subjected.  Our  provisions 
had  wellnigh  all  disappeared.  Bread  had  been 
long  out  of  the  question ;  and  of  all  our  stock, 
we  had  remaining  two  or  three  pounds  of  coffee, 
and  a  small  quantity  of  macaroni,  which  had 
been  husbanded  with  great  care  for  the  moun- 
tain expedition  we  were  about  to  undertake. 
Our  daily  meal  consisted  of  dry  buffalo  meat, 
cooked  in  tallow  ;  and,  as  we  had  not  dried  this 
with  Indian  skill,  part  of  it  was  spoiled  ;  and 


ROCKY   MOUNTAINS.  73 

what  remained  of  good,  was  as  hard  as  wood, 
having  much  the  taste  and  appearance  of  so 
many  pieces  of  bark.  Even  of  this,  our  stock 
was  rapidly  diminishing  in  a  camp  which  was 
capable  of  consuming  two  buffaloes  in  every 
twenty-four  hours.  These  animals  had  entirely 
disappeared;  and  it  was  not  probable  that  we 
should  fall  in  with  them  again  until  we  returned 
to  the  Sweetwater. 

"  Our  arrangements  for  the  ascent  were  rap- 
idly completed.  We  were  in  a  hostile  country, 
which  rendered  the  greatest  vigilance  and  cir- 
cumspection necessary.  The  pass  at  the  north 
end  of  the  mountain  was  generally  infested  by 
Blackfeet;  and  immediately  opposite  was  one 
of  their  forts,  on  the  edge  of  a  little  thicket,  two 
or  three  hundred  feet  from  our  encampment. 
We  were  posted  in  a  grove  of  beech,  on  the 
margin  of  the  lake,  and  a  few  hundred  feet  long, 
with  a  narrow  prairillon  on  the  inner  side,  bor- 
dered by  the  rocky  ridge.  In  the  upper  end  of 
this  grove  we  cleared  a  circular  space  about 
forty  feet  in  diameter,  and  with  the  felled  tim- 
ber and  interwoven  branches,  surrounded  it  with 
a  breastwork  five  feet  in  height.  A  gap  was 
left  for  a  gate  on  the  inner  side,  by  which  the 
animals  were  to  be  driven  in  and  secured,  while 
the  men  slept  around  the  little  work.  It  was 
half  hidden  by  the  foliage;  and,  garrisoned  by 
twelve  resolute  men,  would  have  set  at  defiance 

7 


74  LIFE    OF   FREMONT. 

any  band  of  savages  which  might  chance  to  dis- 
cover them  in  the  interval  of  our  absence.  Fif- 
teen of  the  best  mules,  with  fourteen  men,  were 
selected  for  the  mountain  party.  Our  provis- 
ions consisted  of  dried  meat  for  two  days,  with 
our  little  stock  of  coffee  and  some  macaroni. 
In  addition  to  the  barometer  and  a  thermome- 
ter, I  took  with  me  a  sextant  and  spy-glass,  and 
we  had,  of  course,  our  compasses.  In  charge 
of  the  camp  I  left  Bernier,  one  of  my  most  trust- 
worthy men,  who  possessed  the  most  deter- 
mined courage. 

"August  12.  Early  in  the  morning  wre  left 
the  camp,  fifteen  in  number,  well  armed,  of 
course,  and  mounted  on  yur  best  mules.  A 
pack  animal  carried  our  provisions,  with  a 
coffee-pot  and  kettle,  and  three  or  four  tin  cups. 
Every  man  had  a  blanket  strapped  over  his 
saddle,  to  serve  for  his  bed,  and  the  instruments 
were  carried  by  turns  on  their  backs.  We  en- 
tered directly  on  rough  and  rocky  ground ;  and, 
just  after  crossing  the  ridge,  had  the  good  for- 
tune to  shoot  an  antelope.  We  heard  the  roar, 
and  had  a  glimpse  of  a  waterfall  as  we  rode 
along ;  and,  crossing  in  our  way  two  fine 
streams,  tributary  to  the  Colorado,  in  about 
two  hours'  ride  we  reached  the  top  of  the  first 
row  or  range  of  the  mountains.  Here,  again,  a 
view  of  the  most  romantic  beauty  met  our  eyes. 
It  seemed  as  if,  from  the  vast  expanse  of  unin- 


ROCKY   MOUNTAINS.  75 

teresting  prairie  we  had  passed  over,  Nature 
had  collected  all  her  beauties  together  in  one 
chosen  place.  We  were  overlooking  a  deep 
valley,  which  was  entirely  occupied  by  three 
lakes,  and  from  the  brink  the  surrounding  ridges 
rose  precipitously  five  hundred  and  a  thou- 
sand feet,  covered  with  the  dark  green  of  the 
balsam  pine,  relieved  on  the  border  of  the  lake 
with  the  light  foliage  of  the  aspen.  They  all 
communicated  with  each  other ;  and  the  green 
of  the  waters,  common  to  mountain  lakes  of 
great  depth*,  showed  that  it  would  be  impossi- 
ble to  cross  them.  The  surprise  manifested  by 
our  guides  when  these  impassable  obstacles 
suddenly  barred  our  progress,  proved  that  they 
were  among  the  hidden  treasures  of  the  place, 
unknown  even  to  the  wandering  trappers  of  the 
region.  Descending  the  hill,  we  proceeded  to 
make  our  way  along  the  margin  to  the  southern 
extremity.  A  narrow  strip  of  angular  fragments 
of  rock  sometimes  afforded  a  rough  pathway  for 
our  mules,  but  generally  we  rode  along  the 
shelving  side,  occasionally  scrambling  up,  at  a 
considerable  risk  of  tumbling  back  into  the  lake. 
"  The  slope  was  frequently  60°  ;  the  pines 
grew  densely  together,  and  the  ground  was  cov- 
ered with  the  branches  and  trunks  of  trees.  The 
air  was  fragrant  with  the  odor  of  the  pines  ; 
and  I  realized  this  delightful  morning  the  plea- 
sure of  breathing  that  mountain  air  which  makes 


76  LIFE    OF   FREMONT. 

a  constant  theme  of  the  hunter's  praise,  and 
which  now  made  us  feel  as  if  we  had  all  been 
drinking  some  exhilarating  gas.  The  depths  of 
this  unexplored  forest  were  a  place  to  delight 
the  heart  of  a  botanist.  There  was  a  rich  un- 
dergrowth of  plants,  and  numerous  gay-colored 
flowers  in  brilliant  bloom. 

"  "We  had  reached  a  very  elevated  point,  and 
in  the  valley  below,  and  among  the  hills,  were  a 
number  of  lakes  at  different  levels  ;  some,  two 
or  three  hundred  feet  above  others,  with  which 
they  communicated  by  foaming  torrents.  Even 
to  our  great  height,  the  roar  of  the  cataracts 
came  up,  and  we  could  see  them  leaping  down 
in  lines  of  snowy  foam.  From  this  scene  of 
busy  waters,  we  turned  abruptly  into  the  still- 
ness of  a  forest,  where  we  rode  among  the  open 
bolls  of  the  pines,  over  a  lawn  of  verdant  grass, 
having  strikingly  the  air  of  cultivated  grounds. 
This  led  us,  after  a  time,  among  masses  of  rock 
which  had  no  vegetable  earth  but  in  hollows 
and  crevices,  though  still  the  pine  forest  contin- 
ued. Toward  evening,  we  reached  a  defile,  or 
rather  a  hole  in  the  mountains,  entirely  shut  in 
by  dark  pine-covered  rocks. 

"  Our  table  service  was  rather  scant ;  and  we 
held  the  meat  in  our  hands,  and  clean  rocks 
made  good  plates,  on  which  we  spread  our 
macaroni.  Among  all  the  strange  places  on 
which  we  had  occasion  to  encamp  during  our 


ROCKY   MOUNTAINS.  77 

long  journey,  none  have  left  so  vivid  an  impres- 
sion on  my  mind  as  the  camp  of  this  evening. 
The  disorder  of  the  masses  which  surrounded 
us ;  the  little  hole  through  which  we  saw  the 
stars  overhead  ;  the  dark  pines  where  we  slept; 
and  the  rocks  lit  up  with  the  glow  of  our  fires, 
made  a  night-picture  of  very  wild  beauty. 

"August  13.  The  morning  was  bright  and 
pleasant,  just  cool  enough  to  make  exercise 
agreeable,  and  we  soon  entered  the  defile  I  had 
seen  the  preceding  day.  It  was  smoothly  car- 
peted with  a  soft  grass,  and  scattered  over  with 
groups  of  flowers,  of  which  yellow  was  the  pre- 
dominant color.  Sometimes  we  were  forced,  by 
an  occasional  difficult  pass,  to  pick  our  way  on 
a  narrow  ledge  along  the  side  of  the  defile,  and 
the  mules  were  frequently  on  their  knees  ;  but 
these  obstructions  were  rare,  and  we  journeyed 
on  in  the  sweet  morning  air,  delighted  at  our 
good  fortune  in  having  found  such  a  beautiful 
entrance  to  the  mountains.  This  road  contin- 
ued for  about  three  miles,  when  we  suddenly 
reached  its  termination  in  one  of  the  grand 
views,  which,  at  every  turn,  meet  the  traveller  in 
this  magnificent  region.  Here  the  defile  up 
which  we  had  travelled,  opened  out  into  a  small 
lawn,  where,  in  a  little  lake,  the  stream  had  its 
source. 

"  It  is  not  by  the  splendor  of  far-off  views, 
which  have  lent  such  a  glory  to  the  Alps,  that 


78  LIFE    OF   FREMONT. 

these  impress  the  mind;  but  by  a  gigantic 
disorder  of  enormous  masses,  and  a  savage  sub- 
limity of  naked  rock,  in  wonderful  contrast  with 
innumerable  green  spots  of  a  rich  floral  beauty, 
shut  up  in  their  stern  recesses.  Their  wildness 
seems  well  suited  to  the  character  of  the 
people  who  inhabit  the  country. 

"  I  determined  to  leave  our  animals  here,  and 
make  the  rest  of  our  way  on  foot.  The  peak 
appeared  so  near,  that  there  was  no  doubt  of  our 
returning  before  night ;  and  a  few  men  were 
left  in  charge  of  the  mules,  with  our  provisions 
and  blankets.  We  took  with  us  nothing  but 
our  arms  and  instruments,  and,  as  the  day  had 
become  warm,  the  greater  part  left  our  coats. 
Having  made  an  early  dinner,  we  started  again. 
We  were  soon  involved  in  the  most  ragged 
precipices,  nearing  the  central  chain  very  slowly, 
and  rising  but  little.  The  first  ridge  hid  a 
succession  of  others ;  and  when,  with  great  fa- 
tigue and  difficulty,  we  had  climbed  up  five 
hundred  feet,  it  was  but  to  make  an  equal  de- 
scent on  the  other  side;  all  these  intervening 
places  were  filled  with  small  deep  lakes,  which 
met  the  eye  in  every  direction,  descending 
from  one  level  to  another,  sometimes  under 
bridges  formed  by  huge  fragments  of  granite, 
beneath  which  was  heard  the  roar  of  the  water. 
These  constantly  obstructed  our  path,  forcing 
us  to  make  long  detours ;  frequently  obliged  to 


ROCKY   MOUNTAINS.  79 


retrace  our  steps,  and  frequently  falling  among 
the  rocks.  Maxwell  was  precipitated  toward 
the  face  of  a  precipice,  and  saved  himself  from 
going  over  by  throwing  himself  flat  on  the 
ground.  We  clambered  on,  always  expecting, 
with  every  ridge  that  we  crossed,  to  reach  the 
foot  of  the  peaks,  and  always  disappointed, 
until  about  four  o'clock,  when,  pretty  well  worn 
out,  we  reached  the  shore  of  a  little  lake,  in 
which  there  was  a  rocky  island. 

"  By  the  time  we  had  reached  the  further  side 
of  the  lake,  we  found  ourselves  all  exceedingly 
fatigued,  and,  much  to.  the  satisfaction  of  the 
whole  party,  we  encamped.  The  spot  we  had 
chosen  was  a  broad,  flat  rock,  in  some  measure 
protected  from  the  winds  by  the  surrounding 
crags,  and  the  trunks  of  fallen  pines  afforded  us 
bright  fires.  Near  by  was  a  foaming  torrent, 
which  -tumbled  into  the  little  lake  about  one 
hundred  and  fifty  feet  below  us,  and  which,  by 
way  of  distinction,  we  have  called  Island  Lake. 
We  had  reached  the  upper  limit  of  the  piney 
region ;  as,  above  this  point,  no  tree  was  to  be 
seen,  and  patches  of  snow  lay  everywhere  around 
us  on  the  cold  sides  of  the  rocks.  The  flora  of 
the  region  we  had  traversed  since  leaving  our 
mules  was  extremely  rich,  and,  among  the  char- 
acteristic plants,  the  scarlet  flowers  of  the  dode- 
catheon  dentatum  everywhere  met  the  eye  in 
great  abundance.  A  small  green  ravine,  on  the 


80  LIFE    OF   FREMONT. 

edge  of  which  we  were  encamped,  was  filled 
with  a  profusion  of  alpine  plants  in  brilliant 
bloom. 

"  I  was  taken  ill  shortly  after  we  had  encamped, 
and  continued  so  until  late  in  the  night,  with 
violent  headache,  and  vomiting.  This  was 
probably  caused  by  the  excessive  fatigue  I  had 
undergone,  and  want  of  food,  and  perhaps,  also, 
in  some  measure,  by  the  rarity  of  the  air.  The 
night  was  cold,  as  a  violent  gale  from  the  north 
"had  sprung  up  at  sunset,  which  entirely  blew 
away  the  heat  of  the  fires.  The  cold,  and  our 
granite  beds,  had  not  been  favorable  to  sleep, 
and  we  were  glad  to  see  the  face  of  the  sun  in 
the  morning.  Not  being  delayed  by  any  prepar- 
ation for  breakfast,  we  set  out  immediately. 

"  On  every  side  as  we  advanced  was  heard  the 
roar  of  waters,  and  of  a  torrent,  which  we  fol- 
lowed up  a  short  distance,  until  it  expanded  into 
a  lake  about  one  mile  in  length.  On  the  north- 
ern side  of  the  lake  was  a  bank  of  ice,  or  rather 
of  snow  covered  with  a  crust  of  ice.  Carson 
had  been  our  guide  into  the  mountains,  and, 
agreeably  to  his  advice,  we  left  this  little  valley, 
and  took  to  the  ridges  again ;  which  we  found 
extremely  broken,  and  where  we  were  again 
involved  among  precipices.  Here  were  ice- 
fields ;  among  which  we  were  all  dispersed, 
seeking  each  the  best  path  to  ascend  the  peak. 
Mr.  Preuss  attempted  to  walk  along  the  upper 


ROCKY    MOUNTAINS.  81 

edge  of  one  of  these  fields,  which  sloped  away 
at  an  angle  of  about  twenty  degrees ;  but  his 
feet  slipped  from  under  him,  and  he  went  plung- 
ing down  the  plane.  A  few  hundred  feet  below, 
at  the  bottom,  were  some  fragments  of  sharp 
rock,  on  which  he  landed  ;  and  though  he  turned 
a  couple  of  somersets,  fortunately  received  no 
injury  beyond  a  few  bruises.  Two  of  the  men, 
Clement  Lambert  and  Descoteaux,  had  been 
taken  ill,  and  lay  down  on  the  rocks  a  short  dis- 
tance below  ;  and  at  this  point  I  was  attacked 
with  headache  and  giddiness,  accompanied  by 
vomiting,  as  on  the  day  before.  Finding  myself 
unable  to  proceed,  I  sent  the  barometer  over  to 
Mr.  Preuss,  who  was  in  a  gap  two  or  three  hun- 
dred yards  distant,  desiring  him  to  reach  the 
peak,  if  possible,  and  take  an  observation  there. 
He  found  himself  unable  to  proceed  further  in 
that  direction,  and  took  an  observation,  where 
the  barometer  stood  at  19.401 ;  attached  ther- 
mometer 50°,  in  the  gap.  Carson,  who  had 
gone  over  to  him,  succeeded  in  reaching  one  of 
the  snowy  summits  of  the  main  ridge,  whence 
he  saw  the  peak  towards  which  all  our  efforts 
had  been  directed,  towering  eight  or  ten  hundred 
feet  into  the  air  above  him.  In  the  mean  time, 
finding  myself  grow  rather  worse  than  better, 
and  doubtful  how  far  my  strength  would  carry 
me,  I  sent  Basil  Lajeunesse,  with  four  men, 
back  to  the  place  where  the  mules  had  been 
left. 


82  LIFE    OP    FKEMOXT. 

"  We  were  now  better  acquainted  with  the 
topography  of  the  country,  and  I  directed  him 
to  bring  back  with  him,  if  it  were  in  any  way 
possible,  four  or  five  mules,  with  provisions  and 
blankets.  With  me  were  Maxwell  and  Ayer  ; 
and  after  we  had  remained  nearly  an  hour  on 
the  rock,  it  became  so  unpleasantly  cold,  though 
the  day  was  bright,  that  we  set  out  on  our 
return  to  the  camp,  at  which  we  all  arrived 
safely,  straggling  in  one  after  the  other.  I  con- 
tinued ill  during  the  afternoon,  but  became 
better  towards  sundown,  when  my  recovery  was 
completed  by  the  appearance  of  Basil  and  four 
men,  all  mounted.  The  men  who  had  gone  with 
him  had  been  too  much  fatigued  to  return,  and 
were  relieved  by  those  in  charge  of  the  horses ; 
but  in  his  powers  of  endurance  Basil  resembled 
more  a  mountain  goat  than  a  man.  They 
brought  blankets  and  provisions,  and  we  enjoyed 
well  our  dried  meat  and  a  cup  of  good  coffee. 
We  rolled  ourselves  up  in  our  blankets,  and, 
with  our  feet  turned  to  a  blazing  fire,  slept 
soundly  until  morning. 

"  August  15.  It  had  been  supposed  that  we 
had  finished  with  the  mountains  ;  and  the  even- 
ing before,  it  had  been  arranged  that  Carson 
should  set  out  at  daylight,  and  return  to  break- 
fast at  the  Camp  of  the  Mules,  taking  with  him 
all  but  four  or  five  men,  who  were  to  stay  with 
me  and  bring  back  the  mules  and  instruments. 


ROCKY   MOUXTAIXS.  83 

Accordingly,  at  the  break  of  day  they  set  out. 
With  Mr.  Preuss  and  myself  remained  Basil 
Lajeunesse,  Clement  Lambert,  Janisse,  and 
Descoteaux.  When  we  had  secured  strength 
for  the  day  by  a  hearty  breakfast,  we  covered 
what  remained,  which  was  enough  for  one  meal, 
with  rocks,  in  order  that  it  might  be  safe  from 
any  marauding  bird ;  and,  saddling  our  mules, 
turned  our  faces  once  more  towards  the  peaks. 
This  time  we  determined  to  proceed  quietly  and 
cautiously,  deliberately  resolved  to  accomplish 
our  object  if  it  were  within  the  compass  of 
human  means.  We  were  of  opinion  that  a 
long  defile  which  lay  to  the  left  of  yesterday's 
route  would  lead  us  to  the  foot  of  the  main 
peak.  Our  mules  had  been  refreshed  by  the 
fine  grass  in  the  little  ravine  at  the  Island  camp, 
and  we  intended  to  ride  up  the  defile  as  far  as 
possible,  in  order  to  husband  our  strength  for 
the  main  ascent.  Though  this  was  a  fine  pas- 
sage, still,  it  was  a  defile  of  the  most  rugged 
mountains  known,  and  we  had  many  a  rough 
and  steep  slippery  place  to  cross  before  reaching 
the  end.  In  this  place  the  sun  rarely  shone  ; 
snow  lay  along  the  border  of  the  small  stream 
which  flowed  through  it,  and  occasional  icy 
passages  made  the  footing  of  the  mules  very 
insecure,  and  the  rocks  and  ground  were  moist 
with  the  trickling  waters  in  this  spring  of 
mighty  rivers.  We  soon  had  the  satisfaction  to 


84  LIFE    OF   FREMONT. 

find  ourselves  riding  along  the  huge  wall  which 
forms  the  central  summit  of  the  chain.  There 
at  last  it  rose  by  our  sides,  a  nearly  perpendicular 
wall  of  granite,  terminating  2,000  to  3,000  feet 
above  our  heads  in  a  serrated  line  of  broken, 
jagged  cones.  We  rode  on  until  we  came 
almost  immediately  below  the  main  peak,  which 
I  denominated  the  Snow  Peak,  as  it  exhibited 
more  snow  to  the  eye  than  any  of  the  neighbor- 
ing summits.  Here  were  three  small  lakes  of  a 
green  color,  each  of  perhaps  a  thousand  yards  in 
diameter,  and  apparently  very  deep.  These  lay 
in  a  kind  of  chasm ;  and,  according  to  the  barom- 
eter, we  had  attained  but  a  few  hundred  feet 
above  the  Island  lake.  The  barometer  here 
stood  at  20.450,  attached  thermometer  70°. 

"  We  managed  to  get  our  mules  up  to  a  little 
bench  about  a  hundred  feet  above  the  lakes, 
where  there  was  a  patch  of  good  grass,  and 
turned  them  loose  to  graze.  During  our  rough 
ride  to  this  place,  they  had  exhibited  a  wonder- 
ful surefootedness.  Parts  of  the  defile  were 
filled  with  angular,  sharp  fragments  of  rock, 
three  or  four  and  eight  or  ten  feet  cube ;  and 
among  these  they  had  worked  their  way,  leap- 
ing from  one  narrow  point  to  another,  rarely 
making  a  false  step,  and  giving  us  no  occasion 
to  dismount.  Having  divested  ourselves  of 
every  unnecessary  encumbrance,  we  commenced 
the  ascent.  This  time,  like  experienced  travel- 


ROCKY   MOUNTAINS.  85 

lers,  we  did  not  press  ourselves,  but  climbed 
leisurely,  sitting  down  so  soon  as  we  found 
breath  beginning  to  fail.  At  intervals,  we 
reached  places  where  a  number  of  springs 
gushed  from  the  rocks,  and  about  1,800  feet 
above  the  lakes  came  to  the  snow  line.  From 
this  point  our  progress  was  uninterrupted 
climbing.  Hitherto,  I  had  worn  a  pair  of 
thick  moccasins,  with  soles  of  parfleche ;  but 
here  I  put  on  a  light  thin  pair,  which  I  had 
brought  for  the  purpose,  as  now  the  use  of  our 
toes  became  necessary  to  a  further  advance.  I 
availed  myself  of  a  sort  of  comb  of  the  moun- 
tain, which  stood  against  the  wall  like  a  buttress, 
and  which  the  wind  and  the  solar  radiation, 
joined  to  the  steepness  of  the  smooth  rock,  had 
kept  almost  entirely  free  from  snow.  Up  this  I 
made  my  way  rapidly.  Our  cautious  method 
of  advancing  in  the  outset  had  spared  my 
strength;  and,  with  the  exception  of  a  slight 
disposition  to  headache,  I  felt  no  remains  of 
yesterday's  illness.  In  a  few  minutes  we 
reached  a  point  where  the  buttress  was  over- 
hanging, and  there  was  no  other  way  of  sur- 
mounting the  difficulty  than  by  passing  around 
one  side  of  it,  which  was  the  face  of  a  vertical 
precipice  of  several  hundred  feet." 

Parjleche  is  the  name  given  to  buffalo  hide. 
The  Indian  women  prepare  it  by  scraping  and 
drying.  It  is  exceedingly  tough  and  hard,  and 


86  LIFE   OF  FREMONT. 

receives  its  name  from  the  circumstance  that  it 
cannot  be  pierced  by  arrows  or  spears.  The  en- 
tire dress  of  Fremont  and  his  party,  on  their  as- 
cent to  the  "top  of  America,"  consisted  of  a  blue 
flannel  shirt,  free  and  open  at  the  neck,  the  collar 
'turning  down  over  a  black  silk  handkerchief  tied 
loosely,  blue  cloth  pantaloons,  a  slouched  broad- 
brimmed  hat,  and  moccasins  as  above  described. 
It  was  well  adapted  to  climbing, — quite  light, 
and  at  the  same  time  warm,  and  every  way  com- 
fortable. 

"  Putting  hands  and  feet  in  the  crevices  be- 
tween the  blocks,  I  succeeded  in  getting  over  it, 
and,  when  I  reached  the  top,  found  my  compan- 
ions in  a  small  valley  below.  Descending  to 
them,  we  continued  climbing,  and  in  a  short  time 
reached  the  crest.  I  sprang  upon  the  summit, 
and  another  step  would  have  precipitated  me 
into  an  immense  snow-field  five  hundred  feet 
below.  To  the  edge  of  this  field  was  a  sheer 
icy  precipice  ;  and  then,  with  a  gradual  fall,  the 
field  sloped  off  for  about  a  mile,  until  it  struck 
the  foot  of  another  lower  ridge.  I  stood  on  a 
narrow  crest,  about  three  feet  in  width,  with  an 
inclination  of  about  20°  N.  51°  E.  As  soon  as 
I  had  gratified  the  first  feelings  of  curiosity,  I 
descended,  and  each  man  ascended  in  his  turn ; 
for  I  would  only  allow  one  at  a  time  to  mount 
the  unstable  and  precarious  slab,  which  it  seemed 
a  breath  would  hurl  into  the  abyss  below.  We 


ROCKY  MOUNTAINS.  87 

mounted  the  barometer  in  the  snow  of  the  sum- 
mit, and,  fixing  a  ramrod  in  a  crevice,  unfurled 
the  national  flag,  to  wave  in  the  breeze  where 
never  flag  waved  before.  During  our  morning's 
ascent,  we  had  met  no  sign  of  animal  life, 
except  a  smajl  bird  having  the  appearance  of 
a  sparrow.  A  stillness  the  most  profound  and 
a  terrible  solitude  forced  themselves  constantly 
on  the  mind  as  the  great  features  of  the  place. 
Here,  on  the  summit,  where  the  stillness  was  ab- 
solute, unbroken  by  any  sound,  and  the  solitude 
complete,  we  thought  ourselves  beyond  the  re- 
gion of  animated  life ;  but  while  we  were  sitting 
on  the  rock,  a  solitary  bee  (bromus,  the  humble 
bee)  came  winging  his  flight  from  the  eastern 
valley,  and  lit  on  the  knee  of  one  of  the  men.  * 
"  Around  us,  the  whole  scene  had  one  main 
striking  feature,  which  was  that  of  terrible  con- 
vulsion. Parallel  to  its  length,  the  ridge  was 
split  into  chasms  and  fissures,  between  which 
rose  the  thin,  lofty  walls,  terminated  with  slen- 
der minarets  and  columns,  which  is  correctly 
represented  in  the  view  from  the  camp  on  Island 
Lake.  According  to  the  barometer,  the  little 
crest  of  the  wall  on  which  we  stood  was  three 
thousand  five  hundred  and  seventy  feet  above 
that  place,  and  two  thousand  seven  hundred  and 
eighty  above  the  little  lakes  at  the  bottom,  im- 
mediately at  our  feet.  Our  camp  at  the  Two 
Hills  (an  astronomical  station)  bore  south  3° 


88  LIFE    OF   FEEMOXT. 

east,  which,  with  a  bearing  afterward  obtained 
from  a  fixed  position,  enabled  us  to  locate  the 
peak.  The  bearing  of  the  Trois  Tetons  was 
north  50°  west,  and  the  direction  of  the  central 
ridge  of  the  Wind  River  Mountains  south  39° 
east.  The  summit  rock  was  gneiss^  succeeded 
by  sienitic  gneiss.  Sienite  and  feldspar  suc- 
ceeded in  our  descent  to  the  snow  line,  where 
we  found  a  feldspathic  granite.  I  had  remarked 
that  the  noise  produced  by  the  explosion  of  our 
pistols  had  the  usual  degree  of  loudness,  but  was 
not  in  the  least  prolonged,  expiring  almost 
instantaneously.  Having  now  made  what  obser- 
vations our  means  afforded,  we  proceeded  to  de- 
scend. We  had  accomplished  an  object  of  laud- 
able ambition,  and  beyond  the  strict  order  of  our 
instructions.  We  had  climbed  the  loftiest  peak 
of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and  looked  down  upon 
the  snow  a  thousand  feet  below,  and,  standing 
where  never  human  foot  had  stood  before,  felt 
the  exultation  of  first  explorers.  It  was  about 
two  o'clock  when  we  left  the  summit;  and  when 
we  reached  the  bottom,  the  sun  had  already  sunk 
behind  the  wall,  and  the  day  was  drawing  to  a 
close.  It  would  have  been  pleasant  to  have  lin- 
gered here  and  on  the  summit  longer ;  but  we 
hurried  away  as  rapidly  as  the  ground  would 
permit,  for  it  was  an  object  to  regain  our  party 
as  soon  as  possible,  not  knowing  what  accident 
the  next  hour  might  bring  forth. 


Hoisting  the  American  Hag  on  the  highest  peak  of  the  Rocky  Mountains. 


ROCKY   MOUNTAINS.  89 

"  We  reached  our  deposit  of  provisions  at 
nightfall.  Here  was  not  the  inn  which  awaits 
the  tired  traveller  on  his  return  from  Mont  Blanc, 
or  the  orange  groves  of  South  America,  with 
their  refreshing  juices  and  soft  fragrant  air ;  but 
we  found  our  little  cache  of  dried  meat  and  coffee 
undisturbed.  Though  the  moon  was  bright,  the 
road  was  full  of  precipices,  and  the  fatigue  of 
the  day  had  been  great.  We  therefore  aban- 
doned the  idea  of  rejoining  our  friends,  and  lay 
down  on  the  rock,  and,  in  spite  of  the  cold,  slept 
soundly. 

"August  16.  We  left  our  encampment  with  the 
daylight.  We  saw  on  our  way  large  flocks  of  the 
mountain  goat  looking  down  on  us  from  the 
cliffs.  At  the  crack  of  a  rifle  they  would  bound 
off  among  the  rocks,  and  in  a  few  minutes  make 
their  appearance  on  some  lofty  peak,  some  hun- 
dred or  a  thousand  feet  above.  It  is  needless  to 
attempt  any  further  description  of  the  country ; 
the  portion  over  which  we  travelled  this  morning 
was  rough  as  imagination  could  picture  it,  and 
to  us  seemed  equally  beautiful.  A  concourse 
of  lakes  and  rushing  waters,  mountains  of  rocks 
naked  and  destitute  of  vegetable  earth,  dells  and 
ravines  of  the  most  exquisite  beauty,  all  kept 
green  and  fresh  by  the  great  moisture  in  the  air, 
and  sown  with  brilliant  flowers,  and  everywhere, 
thrown  around  all,  the  glory  of  most  magnificent 
scenes ;  these  constitute  the  features  of  the  place, 

8* 


90  LIFE    OF   FREMONT. 

and  impress  themselves  vividly  on  the  mind  of 
the  traveller.  It  was  not  until  11  o'clock  that 
we  reached  "the  place  where  our  animals  had 
been  left  when  we  first  attempted  the  mountains 
on  foot.  Near  one  of  the  still  burning  fires  we 
found  a  piece  of  meat,  which  our  friends  had' 
thrown  away,  and  which  furnished  us  a  mouth- 
ful— a  very  scanty  breakfast.  We  continued 
directly  on,  and  reached  our  camp  on  the  moun- 
tain lake  at  dusk.  We  found  all  well.  Nothing 
had  occurred  to  interrupt  the  quiet  since  our 
departure,  and  the  fine  grass  and  good  cool 
water  had  done  much  to  re-establish  our  animals. 
All  heard  with  great  delight  the  order  to  turn 
our  faces  homeward ;  and  toward  sundown  of 
the  17th,  w^e  encamped  again  at  the  Two 
Buttes." 

The  Peak  which  had  thus  been  reached  was 
'  found  to  be,  by  the  barometer,  13,570  feet  above 
the  waters  of  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  and  is  sup- 
posed to  be  the  highest  point  of  the  Rocky 
Mountains.  On  the  north,  within  the  range  of 
the  eye,  were  the  snow-clad  mountains  that  con- 
tain the  sources  of  the  Columbia  and  Missouri, 
on  the  west  the  inumerable  lakes  and  streams 
that  feed  the  Colorado  of  the  Gulf  of  California, 
•and  on  the  east  the  springs  of  the  Yellow  Stone 
branch  of  the  Missouri.  On  the  south  the  head- 
waters of  the  Platte  or  Nebraska  gush  from  their 
fountains,  and  not  far  beyond  them  are  the  orig- 


ROCKY  MOUNTAINS.  91 

inal  mountain  reservoirs  of  the  Arkansas.  It  is 
the  great  central  summit  of  the  continent,  and  is 
properly  marked,  on  all  maps,  in  honor  of  the 
first  man  that  ever  stood  upon  it,  Fremont's  Peak. 

The  reader  will  notice,  when  we  reach  the 
period  just  prior  to  the  opening  of  the  California 
war,  that  it  also  fell  to  the  lot  of  Fremont  to  un- 
furl the  banner  of  our  country  for  the  'first  tim$ 
from  the  top  of  the  Sierra,  on  a  mountain  range 
near  the  Pacific  coast,  at  Hawk's  Peak. 

It  is,  by  the  way,  an  interesting  fact  that  the 
Indians  have  a  superstitious  awe  of  the  craggy, 
cavernous,  and  perilous  recesses,  and  declivities 
of  these  great  mountain  ranges.  Hidden  cata- 
racts and  torrents  produce  sounds  and  echoes  that 
appall  the  untutored  imagination.  The  whole 
scene  is  felt  to  be  the  abode  of  supernatural 
beings,  and  the  savage  shrinks  from  ascending 
the  slopes,  or  threading  their  broken  passages. 
We  may  consider  it  certain,  therefore,  that  no 
Indian  had  even  attempted  to  climb  Fremont's 
Peak. 

On  the  19th,  the  returning  party  repassej^  the 
point  where  the  waters  divide,  to  seek  the  At- 
lantic and  Pacific,  and  reached  Rock  Indepen- 
dence on  the  evening  of  the  22d.  Except  in  a 
depression  on  the  summit,  where  there  is  a 
scanty  growth  of  shrubs,  and  a  solitary  dwarf 
pine,  the  rock  is  entirely  bare.  Wherever  the 
surface  is  sufficiently  smooth,  and  in  some  in- 


92  LIFE   OF  FREMONT. 

stances  as  high  up  as  sixty  or  eighty  feet,  the 
names  of  visitors  are  inscribed.  Those  of  traders, 
missionaries,  and  scientific  travellers,  are  legible 
at  all  points. 

"  Here,"  says  Fremont,  in  his  Journal,  "  not 
unmindful  of  the  custom  of  early  travellers-  and 
explorers  in  our  country,  I  engraved  on  this  rock 
of  the  Far  West  a  symbol  of  the  Christian  faith. 
Among  the  thickly  inscribed  names,  I  made  on 
the. hard  granite  the  impression  of  a  large  cross, 
which  I  covered  with  a  black  preparation  of 
India  rubber,  well  calculated  to  resist  the  in- 
fluence of  wind  .and  rain.  It  stands  amidst  the 
names  of  many  who  have  long  since  found  their 
way  to  the  grave,  and  for  whom  the  huge  rock 
•is  a  giant  gravestone. 

"  One  George  Weymouth  was  sent  out  to 
Maine,  by  the  Earl  of  Southampton,  Lord 
Arundel,  and  others,  and  in  the  narrative  of  his 
discoveries  he  says :  '  the  next  day,  we  ascended 
in  our  pinnace  that  part  of  the  river  which  lies 
more  to  the  westward,  carrying  with  us  a  cross, — 
a  thing  never  omitted  by  any  Christian  traveller, 
—which  we  erected  at  the  ultimate  end  of  our 
route.'  This  was  in  the  year  1605  ;  and  in  1842 
I  obeyed  the  feeling  of  early  travellers,  and  left 
the  impression  of  the  cross  deeply  engraved  on 
the  vast  rock,  one  thousand  miles  beyond  the 
Mississippi,  to  which  discoverers  have  given  the 
national  name  of  Rock  Independence." 


NEBRASKA   RIVER.  93 

Having  planted  the  Flag  of  the  Union  on  the 
topmost  peak  of  the  central  mountains,  and  in- 
scribed the  symbol,  dear  to  all  believing  hearts, 
upon  the  mighty  monumental  rock  at  their  base, 
he  had  fulfilled  the^  holiest  aspirations  of  patri- 
otism and  piety,  and,  as  the  Explorer  of  the  vast 
interior  of  North  America,  had  pledged  and 
consecrated  it  to  Republican  Freedom  and 
Christian  Civilization. 

As  his  instructions  required  him  to  survey  the 
course  and  bed  of  the  Platte,  if  possible,  he  sent 
the  main  body  of  his  men  across  the  country  to 
Goat  Island,  with  orders  to  remain  there  until 
he  rejoined  them,  and  with  'Mr.  Preuss,  and  five 
of  his  best  men,  namely,  Clement  Lambert,  Basil 
Lajeunesse,  Honord  Ayot,  Benoist  and  Desco- 
teaux,  he  pursued  the  descending  river.  The 
India-rubber  boat  was  filled  with  air,  and  placed 
in  the  water,  with  what  was  necessary  for  their 
purpose,  and  they  put  forth  upon  its  current. 
The  thrilling  adventures  of  the  voyage,  he  relates 
as  follows : — 

"  There  appeared  no  scarcity  of  water,  and 
we  took  on  board,  with  various  instruments  and 
baggage,  provisions  for  ten  or  twelve  days.  .  We 
paddled  down  the  river  rapidly,  for  our  little 
craft  was  light  as  a  duck  on  the  water ;  and  the 
sun  had  been  sometime  risen,  when  we  heard 
before  us  a  hollow  roar,  which  we  supposed  to 
be  that  of  a  fall,  of  which  we  had  heard  a  vague 


94  LIFE   OF   FREMONT. 

rumor,  but  whose  exact  locality  no  one  had  been 
able  to  describe  to  us.  We  were  approaching  a 
ridge,  through  which  the  river  passes  by  a  place 
called  '  canon,'  (pronounced  kanyon,}  a  Spanish 
word,  signifying  a  piece  of  artillery,  the  barrel 
of  a  gun,  or  any  kind  of  tube ;  and  which,  in 
this  country,  has  been  adopted  to  describe  the 
passage  of  a  river  between  perpendicular  rocks 
of  great  height,  which  frequently  approach  each 
other  so  closely  overhead  as  to  form  a  kind  of 
tunnel  over  the  stream,  which  foams  along  below, 
half-choked  up  by  fallen  fragments.  Between 
the  mouth  of  the  Sweetwater  and  Goat  Island, 
there  is  probably  a  fall  of  three  hundred  feet, 
and  that  was  principally  made  in  the  canons 
before  us  ;  as,  without  them,  the  water  was  com- 
paratively smooth.  As  we  neared  the  ridge, 
the  river  made  a  sudden  turn,  and  swept  squarely 
down  against  one  of  the  walls  of  the  canon  with 
a  great  velocity,  and  so  steep  a  descent,  that  it 
had  to  the  eye  the  appearance  of  an  inclined 
plane.  When  we  launched  into  thie,  the  men 
jumped  overboard,  to  check  the  velocity  of  the 
boat,  but  were  soon  in  water  up  to  their  necks, 
and  our  boat  ran  on  ;  but  we  succeeded  in  bring- 
ing her  to  a  small  point  of  rocks  on  the  right,  at 
the  mouth  of  the  canon.  Here  was  a  kind  of  ele- 
vated sand  beach,  not  many  yards  square,  backed 
by  the  rocks,  and  around  the  point  the  river 
swept  at  a  right  angle.  Trunks  of  trees  depos- 


NEBRASKA  RIVER.  95 

ited  on  jutting  points  twenty  or  thirty  feet  above, 
and  other  marks,  showed  that  the  water  here 
frequently  rose  to  a  considerable  height.  The 
ridge  was.  of  the  same  decomposing  granite 
already  mentioned,  and  the  water  had  worked 
the  surface,  in  many  places,  into  a  wavy  surface 
of  ridges  and  holes.  We  ascended  the  rocks  to 
reconnoitre  the  ground,  and  from  the  summit 
the  passage  appeared  to  be  a  continued  cataract 
foaming  over  many  obstructions,  and  broken  by 
a  number  of  small  falls.  We  saw  nowhere  a 
fall  answering  to  that  which  had  been  described 
to  us  as  having  twenty  or  twenty-five  feet ;  but 
still  concluded  this  to  be  the  place  in  question, 
as,  in  the  season  of  floods,  the  rush  of  the  river 
against  the  wall  would  produce  a  great  rise,  and 
the  waters,  reflected  squarely  off,  would  descend 
through  the  passage  in  a  sheet  of  foam,  having 
every  appearance  of  a  large  fall.  Eighteen 
years  previous  to  this  time,  as  I  subsequently 
learned  from  himself,  Mr.  Fitzpatrick,  some- 
where above  on  this  river,  had  embarked  with  a 
valuable  cargo  of  beaver.  Unacquainted  with 
the  stream,  which  he  believed  would  conduct 
him  safely  to  the  Missouri,  he  came  unexpectedly 
into  this  canon,  where  he  was  wrecked,  with  the 
total  loss  of  his  furs.  It  would  have  been  a 
work  of  great  time  arid  labor  to  pack  our  bag- 
gage across  the  ridge,  and  I  determined  to  run 
the  canon.  We  all  again  embarked,  and  at 


96  LIFE   OP  FREMONT. 

first  attempted  to  check  the  way  of  the  boat ; 
but  the  water  swept  through  with  so  much  vio- 
lence that  we  narrowly  escaped  being  swamped, 
and  were  obliged  to  let  her  go  in  the  full  force 
of  the  current,  and  trust  to  the  skill  of  the  boat- 
men. The  dangerous  places  in  this  canon  were 
where  huge  rocks  had  fallen  from  above,  and 
hemmed  in  the  already  narrow  pass  of  the  river 
to  an  open  space  of  three  or  four  and  five  feet. 
These  obstructions  raised  the  water  consider- 
ably above,  which  was  sometimes  precipitated 
over  in  a  fall ;  and  at  other  places,  where  this 
dam  was  too  high,  rushed  through  the  contracted 
opening  with  tremendous  violence.  Had  our 
boat  been  made  of  wood,  in  passing  the  narrows 
she  would  have  been  staved ;  but  her  elasticity 
preserved  her  unhurt  from  every  shock,  and  she 
seemed  fairly  to  leap  over  the  falls. 

"  In  this  way  we  passed  three  cataracts  in 
succession,  where,  perhaps,  one  hundred  feet  of 
smooth  water  intervened;  and  finally,  with  a 
shout  of  pleasure  at  our  success,  issued  from 
our  tunnel  into  the  open  day  beyond.  We  were 
so  delighted  with  the  performance  of  our  boat, 
and  so  confident 'in  her  powers,  that  we  would 
not  have  hesitated  to  leap  a  fall  of  ten  feet  with 
her.  We  put  to  shore  for  breakfast  at  some 
willows  on  the  right  bank,  immediately  below 
the  mouth  of  the  canon ;  for  it  was  now  eight 
o'clock,  and  we  had  been  working  since  daylight, 


NEBRASKA   RIVER.  97 

and  were  all  wet,  fatigued,  and  hungry.  While 
the  men  were  preparing  breakfast,  I  went  out  to 
reconnoitre.  The  view  was  very  limited.  The 
course  of  the  river  was  smooth,  so  far  as  I  could 
see ;  on  both  sides  were  broken  hills ;  and  but  a 
mile  or  two  below  was  another  high  ridge.  The 
rock  at  the  mouth  of  the  canon  was  still  the 
decomposing  granite,  with  great  quantities  of 
mica,  which  made  a  very  glittering  sand. 

"  We  reembarked  at  nine  o'clock,  and  in  about 
twenty  minutes  reached  the  next  canon.  Land- 
ing on  a  rocky  shore  at  its  commencement,  we 
ascended  the  ridge  to  reconnoitre.  Portage  was 
out  of  the  question.  So  far  as  we  could  see, 
the  jagged  rocks  pointed  out  the  course  of  the 
canon,  on  a  winding  line  of  seven  or  eight  miles. 
It  was  simply  a  narrow,  dark  chasm  in  the  rock ; 
and  here  the  perpendicular  faces  were  much 
higher  than  in  the-  previous  pass,  being  at  this 
end  two  to  three  hundred,  and  further  down,  as 
we  afterward  ascertained,  five  hundred  feet  in 
vertical  height.  Our  previous  success  had  made 
us  bold,  and  we  determined  again  to  run  the 
canon.  Every  thing  was  secured  as  firmly  as 
possible;  and,  having  divested  ourselves  of  the 
greater  part  of  our  clothing,  we  pushed  into  the 
stream.  To  save  our  chronometer  from  accident, 
Mr.  Preuss  took  it,  and  attempted  to  proceed 
along  the  shore  on  the  masses  of  rock,  which  in 
places  were  piled  up  on  either  side ;  but,  after 
9 


98  LIFE    OF   FREMONT. 

he  had  walked  about  five  minutes,  every  thing 
like  shore  disappeared,  and  the  vertical  wall 
came  squarely  down  into  the  water.  He  there- 
fore waited  until  we  came  up.  An  ugly  pass 
lay  before  us.  We  had  made  fast  to  the  stern 
of  the  boat  a  strong  rope  about  fifty  feet  long ; 
and  three  of  the  men  clambered  along  among 
the  rocks,  and  with  this  rope  let  her  down  slowly 
through  the  pass.  In  several  places  high  rocks 
lay  scattered  about  in  the  channel ;  and  in  the 
narrows  it  required  all  our  strength  and  skill  to 
avoid  staving  the  boat  on  the  sharp  points.  In 
one  of  these,  the  boat  proved"  a  little  too  broad, 
and  stuck  fast  for  an  instant,  while  the  water 
flew  over  us ;  fortunately  it  was  but  for  an  instant, 
as  our  united  strength  forced  her  immediately 
through.  The  water  swept  overboard  only  a 
sextant  and  a  pair  of  saddlebags.  I  caught  the 
sextant  as  it  passed  by  me ;  but  the  saddlebags 
became  the  prey  of  the  whirlpools.  We  reached 
the  place  where  Mr.  Preuss  was  standing,  took 
him  on  board,  and,  with  the  aid  of  the  boat,  put 
the  men  with  the  rope  on  the  succeeding  pile  of 
rocks.  We  found  this  passage  much  worse  than 
the  previous  one,  and  our  position  was  rather  a 
bad  one.  To.  go  back,  was  impossible;  before 
us,  the  cataract  was  a  sheet  of  foam  ;  and,  shut 
up  in  the  chasm  by  the  rocks,  which  in  some 
places  seemed  almost  to  meet  overhead,  the  roar 
of  the  water  was  deafening.  We  pushed  off 


NEBKASKA  RIVER.  99 

again ;  but,  after  making  a  little  distance,  the 
force  of  the  current  became  too  great  for  the 
men  on  shore,  and  two  of  them  let  go  the  rope. 
Lajeunesse,  the  third  man,  hung  on,  and  was 
jerked  headforemost  into  the  river  from  a  rock 
about  twelve  feet  high ;  and  down  the  boat  shot 
like  an  arrow,  Basil  following  us  in  the  rapid 
current,  and  exerting  all  his  strength  to  keep  in 
mid  channel — his  head  only  seen  occasionally 
like  a  black  spot  in  the  white  foam.  How  far 
we  went,  I  do  not  exactly  know ;  but  we  suc- 
ceeded in  turning  the  boat  into  an  eddy  below. 
' '  Cre  DieuJ  said  Basil  Lejeunesse,  as  he  arrived 
immediately  after  us,  '  Je  crois  bien  quefai  nage 
un  demi  milef  —  'I  believe,  indeed,  that  I  have 
swum  half  a  mile.'  He  had  owed  his  life  to  his 
skill  as  a  swimmer;  and  I  determined  to  take 
him  and  the  others  on  board,  and  trust  to  skill 
and  fortune  to  reach  the  other  end  in  safety. 
We  placed  ourselves  on  our  knees,  with  the 
short  paddles  in  'our  hands,  the  most  skilful 
boatman  being  at  the  bow  ;  and  again  we  com- 
menced our  rapid  descent.  We  cleared  rock 
after  rock,  and  shot  past  fall  after  fall,  our  little 
boat  seeming  to  play  with  the  cataract.  We  be- 
came flushed  with  success  and  familiar  with  the 
danger ;  and,  yielding  to  the  excitement  of  the  oc- 
casion, broke  forth  together  into  a  Canadian  boat 
song.  Singing,  or  rather  shouting,  we  dashed 
along ;  and  were,  I  believe,  in  the  midst  of  the 


100  LIFE   OF   FREMONT. 

chorus,  when  the  boat  struck  a  concealed  rock 
immediately  at  the  foot  Of  a  fall,  which  whirled 
her  over  in  an  instant.  Three  of  my  men  could 
not  swim,  and  my  first  feeling  was  to  assist  them, 
and  save  some  of  our  effects ;  but  a  sharp  con- 
cussion or  two  convinced  me  that  I  had  not  yet 
saved  myself.  A  few  strokes  brought  me  into 
an  eddy,  and  I  landed  on  a  pile  of  rocks  on  the 
left  side.  Looking  around,  I  saw  that  Mr.  Preuss 
had  gained  the  shore  on  the  same  side,  about 
twenty  yards  below ;  and  a  little  climbing  and 
swimming  soon  brought  him  to  my  side.  On 
the  opposite  side,  against  the  wall,  lay  the  boat 
bottom  up;  and  Lambert  was  in  the  act  of 
saving  Descoteaux,  whom  he  had  grasped  by  the 
hair,  and  who  could  not  s\vim  ;  'Lache  pas]  said 
he,  as  I  afterward  learned,  '  lack e  pas,  cher  frerej 
— '  Don't  let  go,  don't  let  go,  dear  brother.'  '  Grains 
pas]  was  the  reply,  lJe  m'en  vais  mourir  avant  que 
de  te  Idcherj — '  Fear  not,  I  will  die  before  I  let 
you  go.'  Such  was  the  reply  of  courage  and 
generosity  in  this  danger.  For  a  hundred  yards 
below,  the  current  was  covered  with  floating 
books  and  boxes,  bales  of  blankets,  and  scattered 
articles  of  clothing;  and  so  strong  and  boiling 
was  the  stream,  that  even  our  heavy  instruments, 
which  were  all  in  cases,  kept  on  the  surface,  and 
the  sextant,  circle,  and  the  long  black  box  of  the 
telescope,  were  in  view  at  once.  For  a  moment, 
I  felt  somewhat  disheartened.  All  our  books — 


NEBKASKA   RIVER.  101 

almost  every  record  of  the  journey — our  journals 
and  registers  of  astronomical  and  barometrical 
observations — had  been  lost  in  a  moment.  But 
it  was  no  time  to  indulge  in  regrets ;  and  I 
immediately  set  about  endeavoring  to  save  some- 
thing from  the  wreck.  Making  ourselves  under- 
stood as  well  as  possible  by  signs,  (for  nothing 
could  be  heard  in  the  roar  of  waters,)  we  com- 
menced our  operations.  Of  every  thing  on  board, 
the  only  article  that  had  been  saved  was  my 
double-barrelled  gun,  which  Descoteaux  had 
caught,  and  clung  to  with  drowning  tenacity. 
The  men  continued  down  the  river  on  the  left 
bank.  Mr.  Preuss  and  myself  descended  on  the 
side  we  were  on  ;  and  Lajeunesse,  with  a  pad- 
dle in  his  hand,  jumped  on  the  boat  alone,  and 
continued  down  the  canon.  She  was  now  light, 
and  cleared  every  bad  place  with  much  less 
difficulty.  In  a  short  time,  he  was  joined  by 
Lambert;  and  the  search  was  continued  for 
about  a  mile  and  a  half,  which  was  as  far  as  the 
boat  could  proceed  in  the  pass. 

"  Here  the  -walls  were  about  five  hundred  feet 
high,  and  the  fragments  of  rocks  from  above  had 
choked  the  river  into  a  hollow  pass  but  one  or 
two  feet  above  the  surface.  Through  this  and 
the  interstices  of  the  rock,  the  water  found  its 
way.  Favored  beyond  our  expectations,  all  of 
our  registers  had  been  recovered,  with  the  excep- 
tion of  one  of  my  journals,  which  contained  the 

9* 


102  LIFE    OF    FREMONT. 

notes  and  incidents  of  travel,  and  topographical 
descriptions,  a  number  of  scattered  astronomical 
observations,  principally  meridian  altitudes  of 
the  sun,  and  our  barometrical  register  west  of 
Laramie.  Fortunately,  our  other  journals  con- 
tained duplicates  of  the  most  important  barome- 
trical observations  which  had  been  taken  in  the 
mountains.  These,  with  a  few  scattered  notes, 
were  all  that  had  been  preserved  of  our  meteoro- 
logical observations.  In  addition  to  these,  we 
saved  the  circle ;  and  these,  with  a  few  blankets, 
constituted  every  thing  that  had  been  rescued 
from  the  waters. 

"  The  day  was  running  rapidly  away,  and  it 
was  necessary  to  reach  Goat  Island,  whither  the 
party  had  preceded  us,  before  night.  In  this 
uncertain  country,  the  traveller  is  so  much  in  the 
power  of  chance,  that  we  became  somewhat 
uneasy  in  regard  to  them.  Should  any  thing 
have  occurred,  in  the  brief  interval  of  our  separa- 
tion, to  prevent  our  rejoining  them,  our  situation 
would  be  rather  a  desperate  one.  We  had  not 
a  morsel  of  provisions — our  arms  and  ammuni- 
tion were  gone — and  we  were  entirely  at  the 
mercy  of  any  straggling  party  of  savages,  and 
not  a  little  in  danger  of  starvation.  We  there- 
fore set  out  at  once  in  two  parties.  Mr.  Preuss 
and  myself  on  the  left,  and  the  men  on  the 
opposite  side  of  the  river.  Climbing  out  of  the 
canon,  we  found  ourselves  in  a  very  broken 


NEBRASKA    RIVER.  103 

country,  where  we  were  not  yet  able  to  rec- 
ognize any  locality.  In  the  course  of  our  descent 
through  the  canon,  the  rock,  which  at  the  upper 
end  was  of  the  decomposing  granite,  changed 
into  a  varied  sandstone  formation.  The  hills 
and  points  of  the  ridges  were  covered  with  frag- 
ments of  a  yellow  sandstone,  of  which  the  strata 
were  sometimes  displayed  in  the  broken  ravines 
which  interrupted  our  course,  and  made  our 
\valk  extremely  fatiguing.  At  one  point  of  the 
canon  the  red  argillaceous  sandstone  rose  in  a 
wall  of  five  hundred  feet,  surmounted  by  a  stra- 
tum of  white  sandstone ;  and  in  an  opposite 
ravine  a  column  of  red  sandstone  rose,  in  form 
like  a  steeple,  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet 
high.  The  scenery  was  extremely  picturesque, 
and,  notwithstanding  our  forlorn  condition,  we 
were  frequently  obliged  to  stop  and  admire  it. 
Our  progress  was  not  very  rapid.  We  had 
emerged  from  the  water  half  naked,  and,  on 
arriving  at  the  top  of  the  precipice,  I  found 
myself  with  only  one  moccasin.  The  fragments 
of  rock  made  walking  painful,  and  I  was  fre- 
quently obliged  to  stop  and  pull  out  the  thorns 
of  the  cactus,  here  the  prevailing  plant,  and  with 
which  a  few  minutes'  walk  covered  the  bottom 
of  my  feet.  From  this  ridge  the  river  emerged 
into  a  smiling  prairie,  and,  descending  to  the 
bank  for  water,  we  were  joined  by  Benoist.  The 
rest  of  the  party  were  out  of  sight,  having  taken 


104  LIFE   OF   FREMONT. 

a  more   inland  route.      We   crossed   the   river 
repeatedly — sometimes  able  to  ford  it,  and  some- 
times   swimming — climbed   over   the  ridges  of 
two  more  canons,  and  towards  evening  reached 
the  cut,  which  we  here  named  the  Hot  Spring 
Gate.    On  our  previousvis  it  in  July,  we  had  not 
entered  this  pass,  reserving  it  for  our  descent  in 
the  boat ;  and  when  we  entered  it  this  evening, 
Mr.  Preuss  was  a  few  hundred  feet  in  advance. 
Heated  with  the  long  march,  he  came  suddenly 
upon  a  fine  bold  spring  gushing  from  the  rock, 
about  ten  feet  above  the  river.     Eager  to  enjoy 
the  crystal  water,  he  threw  himself  down  for  a 
hasty  draught,  and  took  a  mouthful  of  water 
almost  boiling  hot.    He  said  nothing  to  Benoist, 
who  laid  himself  down  to  drink ;  but  the  steam 
from  the  water  arrested  his  eagerness,  and  he 
escaped  the    hot  draught.     We   had   no   ther- 
mometer to    ascertain   the   temperature,   but  I 
could  hold   my  hand  in  the   water  just  long 
enough  to  count  two  seconds.     There  are  eight 
or  ten  of  these  springs,  discharging  themselves 
by  streams  large  enough  to  be  called  runs.     A 
loud   hollow  noise   was   heard   from  the   rock, 
which  I  supposed  to  be  produced  by  the  fall  of 
the  water.     The  strata  immediately  where  they 
issue  is  a  fine  white  and  calcareous  sandstone, 
covered  with  an  incrustation  of  common  salt. 
Leaving  this  Thermopylas  of  the  West,  in  a  short 
walk  we  reached  the  red  ridge  which  has  been 


NEBRASKA   RIVER.  105 

described  as  lying  just  above  Goat  Island. 
Ascending  this,  we  found  some  fresh  tracks  and 
a  button,  which  showed  that  the  other  men  had 
already  arrived.  A  shout  from  the  man  who 
first  reached  the  top  of  the  ridge,  responded  to 
from  below,  informed  us  that  our  friends  were 
all  on  the  island ;  and  we  were  soon  among 
them.  We  found  some  pieces  of  buffalo  stand- 
ing around  the  fire  for  us,  and  managed  to  get 
some  dry  clothes  among  the  people.  A  sudden 
storm  of  rain  drove  us  into  the  best  shelter  we 
could  find,  where  \ve  slept  soundly,  after  one  of 
the  most  fatiguing  days  I  have  ever  experi- 
enced." 

A  week  afterwards,  at  a  point  of  course  much 
lower  down,  another  attempt  was  made  to  sur- 
vey the  river,  which  is  thus  described  : — 

"At  this  place  I  had  determined  to  make 
another  attempt  to  descend  the  Platte  by  water, 
and  accordingly  spent  two  days  in  the  construc- 
tion of  a  bull-boat.  Men  were  sent  out  on  the 
evening  of  our  arrival,  the  necessary  number  of 
bulls  killed,  and  their  skins  brought  to  the  camp. 
Four  of  the  best  of  them  were  strongly  sewed 
together  with  buffalo  sinew,  and  stretched  over 
a  basket  frame  of  willow.  The  seams  were 
fhen  covered  with  ashes  and  tallow,  and  the  boat 
left  exposed  to  the  sun  for  the  greater  part  of 
one  day,  which  was  sufficient  to  dry  and  con- 
tract the  skin,  and  make  the  whole  work  solid 


106  LIFE    OF   FREMONT. 

and  strong.  It  had  a  rounded  bow,  was  eight 
feet  long  and  five  broad,  and  drew  with  four 
men  about  four  inches  water.  On  the  morning 
of  the  15th  we  embarked  in  our  hide-boat,  Mr. 
Preuss  and  myself,  with  two  men.  We  dragged 
her  over  the  sands  for  three  or  four  miles,  and 
then  left  her  on  a  bar,  and  abandoned  entirely 
ah1  further  attempts  to  navigate  this  river.  The 
names  given  by  the  Indians  are  always  remark- 
ably appropriate ;  and  certainly  none  was  ever 
more  so  than  that  which  they  have  given  to 
this  stream — '  The  Nebraska,  or  Shallow  River.' 
Walking  steadily  the  remainder  of  the  day,  a 
little  before  dark  we  overtook  our  people  at  their 
evening  camp,  about  twenty-one  miles  below 
the  junction.  The  next  morning  we  crossed  the 
Platte,  and  continued  our  way  down  the  river 
bottom  on  the  left  bank,  where  we  found  an 
excellent,  plainly  beaten  road." 

On  the  morning  of  October  1,  the  cow-bells 
were  heard  at  the  break  of  day  on  the  Missourian 
farms.  St.  Louis  was  reached  on  the  17th,  and 
Lieut.  Fremont  reported  himself  to  the  chief  of 
his  corps  at  the  city  of  Washington  on  the  23d 
of  October. 


CHAPTER  III. 

SECOND      EXPEDITION KANSAS SALT     LAKE CO- 
LUMBIA    RIVER CENTRAL      BASIN SIERRA      NE- 

VADA CALIFORNIA KIT       CARSON WAHSATCH 

MOUNTAINS THREE    PARKS. 

EARLY  in  the  spring  of  1843,  Mr.  Fremont 
started  on  his  Second  Expedition.  His  instruc- 
tions were  to  connect  his  explorations  of  the  pre- 
ceding year  with  the  surveys  of  Commander 
Wilkes  on  the  coast  of  the  Pacific,  so  as  to  give 
a  connected  view  of  the  great  interior  tracts  of 
the  continent. 

The  party  was  placed  in  a  state  of  final  prep- 
aration for  its  long  march  at  the  town  of  Kansas, 
near  the  junction  of  the  river  of  that  name  with 
the  Missouri.  Mr.  Thomas  Fitzpatrick,  whom 
an  experience  of  many  years'  hardship  and  ex- 
posure in  the  western  regions  fitted  for  the  post, 
was  selected  as  guide,  and  proved  of  invalu- 
able service  in  all  respects  and  at  all  times. 
Mr.  Charles  Preuss  was  attached  to  the  expedi- 
tion in  the  same  capacity  as  in  the  former  one. 
Mr.  Theodore  Talbot,  of  Washington  City,  and 

(107) 


108  LIFE   OF   FREMONT. 

Mr.  Frederick  Dwight,  of  Massachusetts,  accom- 
panied the  party.  Jacob  Dodson,  a  free  young 
colored  man  of  Washington  City,  who  volun- 
teered for  the  service,  was  found  most  useful  and 
worthy  of  confidence,  in  all  the  perils  and  trials 
of  the  journey  to  its  end.  L.  Maxwell,  who  had 
accompanied  the  former  expedition,  and  was  on 
his  way  to  Taos,  joined  the  party  at  Kansas. 
Two  Delaware  Indians — a  fine-looking  old  man 
and  his  son — were  engaged  as  hunters.  There 
were  thirty-two  men  in  the  body  of  the  party, 
constituting  in  all  forty  persons  besides  the  com- 
mander. They  were  generally  armed  with  Hall's 
carbines,  and  took  with  them  a  brass  twelve- 
pound  howitzer.  The  hunters  and  Delawares 
had  rifles.  The  camp  equipage  and  provisions 
were  transported  in  twelve  carts,  drawn  each  by 
two  mules ;  and  a  light,  covered  spring-wagon, 
well  mounted,  carried  the  instruments. 

The  expedition  started  on  the  morning  of  the 
29th  of  May.  A  few  days  afterwards  Mr.  Gil- 
pin,  of  Missouri,  joined  it.  Its  route  was  along 
the  line  of  the  Kansas,  to  the  mouth  of  the  Re- 
publican Fork,  which  it  followed  some  distance, 
and  thence  across  the  country  to  St,  Vrain's 
Fort,  on  the  south  fork  of  the  Platte,  which  it 
reached  on  the  4th  of  July.  On  the  6th  it  left 
St.  Vrain's,  and  continued  on  up  the  Platte.  On 
the  10th,  snow  fell-  heavily  during  the  night  on 
the  mountains,  and  in  the  morning  Pike's  Peak 


ARKANSAS   RIVER.  109 

was  covered,  from  the  summit  as  far  down  as 
it  was  visible,  with  glittering  white,  giving  it  a 
luminous  and  grand  appearance.  On  the  14th 
the  party  reached  the  point  where  the  Boiling 
Spring  River  enters  the  Arkansas.  Here  Fre- 
mont was  delighted  to  meet  and  again  secure 
the  services  of  Kit  Carson.  Having  discovered 
that  it  would  not  be  possible  to  obtain  supplies 
from  Taos,  he  determined,  without  delay,  to  re- 
turn to  St.  Vrain's,  having  first  despatched  Car- 
son to  procure,  if  possible,  a  reinforcement  of 
mules  from  Mr.  Charles  Bent,  whose  post  was 
about  seventy-five  miles  lower  down  on  the  Ar- 
kansas, and  rejoin  him  at  St.  Vrain's.  On  the 
16th  the  party  resumed  its  journey  up  the  Boil- 
ing Spring  River,  so  called  in  consequence  of 
some  very  remarkable  springs,  which  Mr.  Fre- 
mont visited  the  next  day,  and  describes  as  fol- 
lows :  — 

"  Leaving  the  camp  to  follow  slowly,  I  rode 
ahead  in  the  afternoon  in  search  of  the  springs. 
In  the  mean  time  the  clouds,  which  had  been 
gathered  all  the  afternoon  over  the  mountains, 
began  to  roll  down  their  sides ;  and  a  storm  so 
violent  burst  upon  me  that  it  appeared  I  had 
entered  the  storehouse  of  the  thunder-storms.  I 
continued,  however,  to  ride  along  up  the  river 
until  about  sunset,  and  was  beginning  to  be 
doubtful  of  finding  the  springs  before  the  next 
day,  when  I  came  suddenly  upon  a  large  smooth 
10 


110  LIFE    OF    FREMONT. 

rock  about  twenty  yards  in  diameter,  where  the 
water  from  several  springs  was  bubbling  and 
boiling  up  in  the  midst  of  a  white  incrustation 
with  which  it  had  covered  a  portion  of  the  rock. 
As  this  did  not  correspond  with  a  description 
given  me  by  the  hunters,  I  did  not  stop  to  taste 
the  water,  but,  dismounting,  walked  a  little  way 
up  the  river,  and,  passing  through  a  narrow 
thicket  of  shrubbery  bordering  the  stream,  stepped 
directly  upon  a  huge  white  rock,  at  the  foot  of 
which  the  river,  already  become  a  torrent,  foamed 
along,  broken  by  a  small  fall.  A  deer  which  had 
been  drinking  at  the  spring  was  startled  by  my 
approach,  and,  springing  across  the  river,  bound- 
ed off  up  the  mountain.  In  the  upper  part  of  the 
rock,  which  had  apparently  been  formed  by  de- 
position, was-  a  beautiful  white  basin,  overhung 
by  currant-bushes,  in  which  the  cold,  clear  water 
bubbled  up,  kept  in  constant  motion  by  the 
escaping  gas,  and  overflowing  the  rock  which  it 
had  almost  entirely  covered  with  a  smooth  crust 
of  glistening  white.  I  had  all  day  refrained  from 
drinking,  reserving  myself  for  the  spring  ;  and  as 
I  could  not  well  be  more  wet  than  the  rain  had 
already  made  me,  I  lay  down  by  the  side  of  the 
basin,  and  drank  heartily  of  the  delightful  water. 
The  water  has  a  very  agreeable  taste,  which 
Mr.  Preuss  found  very  much  to  resemble  that  of 
the  famous  Selter  Springs  in  the  grand-duchy  of 
Nassau,  a  country  famous  for  wine  and  mineral 


ARKANSAS   KIVEK.  Ill 

waters ;    and  it  is  almost  entirely  of  the  same 
character,  though  still  more  agreeable  than  that 
of  the  famous  Bear  Springs,  near  Bear  River  of 
the  Great  Salt  Lake.    The  following  is  an  anal- 
ysis of  an  incrustation  with  which  the  water  had 
covered  a  piece  of  wood  lying  on  the  rock  : — 
Carbonate  of  lime  ....       92.25 
Carbonate  of  magnesia  .         .         .         1.21 
Sulphate  of  lime  \ 

Chloride  of  calcium       >          .         .  .23 

Chloride  of  magnesia    ) 

Silica 1.50 

Vegetable  matter  ....  .20 

Moisture  and  loss  .  .         .        4.61 


100.00 

".July  20.  We  continued  our  march  up  the 
stream  along  a  green  sloping  bottom,  between 
pine  hills  on  the  one.  hand,  and  the  main  Black 
Hills  on  the  other,  towards  the  ridge  which  separ- 
ates the  waters  of  the  Platte  from  those  of  the 
Arkansas.  As  we  approached  the  dividing  ridge, 
the  whole  valley  was  radiant  with  flowers ;  blue, 
yellow,  pink,  white,  scarlet,  and  purple  vied  with 
each  other  in  splendor.  Esparcette  was  one  of 
the  highly  characteristic  plants,  and  a  bright- 
looking  flower  (gaillardia  aristatd)  was  very 
frequent ;  but  the  most  abundant  plant  along  our 
road  to-day  was  geranium  maculatum,  which  is 
the  characteristic  plant  on  this  portion  of  the 


112  LIFE   OF  FREMONT. 

dividing  grounds.  Crossing  to  the  waters  of  the 
Platte,  fields  of  blue  flax  added  to  the  magnifi- 
cence of  this  mountain  garden ;  this  was  occa- 
sionally four  feet  in  height,  which  was  a  luxu- 
riance of  growth  that  I  rarely  saw  this  almost 
universal  plant  attain  throughout  the  journey." 

Mr.  Fitzpatrick  had  been  left  behind  a  month 
before,  to  follow  on  with  twenty-five  men,  and  the 
heavier  baggage  of  the  expedition. 

"  Reaching  St.  Vrain's  Fort  on  the  morning  of 
the  23d,  we  found  Mr.  Fitzpatrick  and  his  party 
in  good  order  and  excellent  health,  and  my  true 
and  reliable  friend,  Kit  Carson,  who  had  brought 
wjth  him  ten  good  mules  with  the  necessary  pack- 
saddles.  Mr.  Fitzpatrick,  who  had  often  endured 
every  extremity  of  want  during  the  course  of  his 
mountain  life,  and  knew  well  the  value  of  pro- 
visions in  this  country,  had  watched  over  our 
stock  with  jealous  vigilance,  and  there  was  an 
abundance  of  flour,  rice,  sugar,  and  coffee  in  the 
camp;  and  again  we  fared  luxuriously.  Meat 
was,  however,  very  scarce ;  and  two  very  small 
pigs,  which  we  obtained  at  the  fort,  did  not  go 
far  among  forty  men.  Mr.  Fitzpatrick  had  been 
here  a  week,  during  which  time  his  men  had 
been  occupied  in  refitting  the  camp ;  and  the 
repose  had  been  very  beneficial  to  his  animals, 
which  were  now  in  tolerably  good  condition. 

"  I  had  been  able  to  obtain  no  certain  informa- 
tion in  regard  to  the  character  of  the  passes  in 


TRAPPERS.  113 

this  portion  of  the  Rocky  Mountain  range,  which 
had  always  been  represented  as  impracticable 
for  carriages,  but  the  exploration  of  which  was 
incidentaUy  contemplated  by  my  instructions, 
with  the  view  of  finding  some  convenient  point 
of  passage  for  the  road  of  emigration,  which 
would  enable  it  to  reach,  on  a  more  direct  line, 
the  usual  ford  of  the  Great  Colorado — a  place 
considered  as  determined  by  the  nature  of  the 
country  beyond  that  river.  It  is  singular,  that, 
immediately  at  the  foot  of  the  mountains,  I  could 
find  no  one  sufficiently  acquainted  with  them  to 
guide  us  to  the  plains  at  their  western  base ;  but 
the  race  of  trappers  who  formerly  lived  in  their 
recesses  has  almost  entirely  disappeared — dwin- 
dled to  a  few  scattered  individuals — some  one 
or  two  of  whom  are  regularly  killed  in  the  course 
of  each  year  by  the  Indians.  You  will  remem- 
ber that,  in  the  previous  year,  I  brought  with  me 
to  their  village  near  this  post,  and  hospitably 
treated  on  the  way,  several  Cheyenne  Indians, 
whom  I  had  met  on  the  Lower  Platte.  Shortly 
after  their  arrival  here,  they  were  out  with  a 
party  of  Indians,  (themselves  the  principal  men,) 
which  discovered  a  few  trappers  in  the  neigh- 
boring mountains,  whom  they  immediately  mur- 
dered, although  one  of  them  had  been  nearly 
thirty  years  in  the  country,  and  was  perfectly 
well  known,  as  he  had  grown  gray  among 
them." 

10* 


114  LIFE   OF   FREMONT. 

Having  determined  to  traverse  the  eastern  side 
of  the  Medicine  Bow  Mountains  to  find,  if  pos- 
sible, a  pass  through  them,  Mr.  Fremont  again 
divided  his  party,  sending  Fitzpatrick  with  a 
large  portion  of  it  to  the  mouth  of  the  Laramie, 
and  thence  by  the  usual  emigrant  route  to  Fort 
Hall,  there  to  await  his  arrival. 

"  Our  Delaware  Indians  having  determined  to 
return  to  their  homes,  it  became  necessary  to 
provide  this  party  with  a  good  hunter;  and  I 
accordingly  engaged  in  that  capacity  Alexander 
Godey,  a  young  man  about  twerity-five  years  of 
age,  who  had  been  in  this  country  six  or  seven 
years,  aU  of  which  time  had  been  actively  em- 
ployed in  hunting  for  the  support  of  the  posts,  or 
in  solitary  trading  expeditions  among  the  Indians. 
In  courage  and  professional  skill  he  was  a  for- 
midable rival  to  Carson,  and  constantly  after- 
wards was  among  the  best  and  most  efficient  of 
the  party,  and  in  difficult  situations  was  of  in- 
calculable value. 

"  For  my  own  party  I  selected  the  following 
men,  a  number  of  whom  old  associations  ren- 
dered agreeable  to  me : — 

"  Charles  Preuss,  Christopher  Carson,  Basil  La- 
jeunesse,  Francois  Badeau,  J.  B.  Bernier,  Louis 
Menard,  Raphael  Proue,  Jacob  Dodson,  Louis 
Zindel,  Henry  Lee,  J.  B.  Derosier,  Francois  La- 
jeunesse,  and  Auguste  Vasquez." 

Going  through  what  is  called  the  Medicine 


GREAT   SALT   LAKE.  115 

Butte  Pass,  Fremont  followed  the  Platte  and 
Sweetwater,  and  crossed  the  dividing  ridge, 
along  the  southern  border  of  the  South  Pass, 
which  is  about  twenty  miles  in  width.  He 
then  directed  his  course  towards  Bear  River,  a 
tributary  of  the  Great  Salt  Lake  on  the  north. 
Many  of  his  animals  died  during  this  part  of  the 
tour,  and  it  was  not  accomplished  without  con- 
siderable difficulty  and  hardship. 

On  the  21st  of  August,  they  reached  the  fer- 
tile and  picturesque  valley  of  Bear  River,  the 
principal  tributary  of  the  Great  Salt  Lake. 

"  We  were  now  entering  a  region  which,  for 
us,  possessed  a  strange  and  extraordinary  in- 
terest. We  were  upon  the  waters  of  the  fam- 
ous lake  which  forms  a  salient  point  among  the 
remarkable  geographical  features  of  the  coun- 
try, and  around  which  the  vague  and  supersti- 
tious accounts  of  the  trappers  had  thrown  a  de- 
lightful obscurity,  which  we  anticipated  pleasure 
in  dispelling,  but  which,  in  the  mean  time,  left 
a  crowded  field  for  the  exercise  of  our  imagina- 
tion. 

"  In  our  occasional  conversations  with  the  few 
old  hunters  who  had  visited  the  region,  it  had 
been  a  subject  of  frequent  speculation ;  and  the 
wonders  which  they  related  were  not  the  less 
agreeable  because  they  were  highly  exaggerated 
and  impossible. 

"  Hitherto  this  lake  had  been  seen  only  by  trap- 


116  LIFE    OF    FREMONT. 

pers,  who  were  wandering  through  the  country 
in  search  of  new  beaver  streams,  caring  very 
little  for  geography ;  its  islands  had  never  been 
visited ;  and  none  were  to  be  found  who  had 
entirely  made  the  circuit  of  its  shores ;  and  no 
instrumental  observations,  or  geographical  sur- 
vey of  any  description,  had  ever  been  made 
anywhere  in  the  neighboring  region.  It  was 
generally  supposed  that  it  had  no  visible  outlet ; 
but  among  the  trappers,  including  those  in  my 
own  camp,  were  many  who  believed  that  some- 
where on  its  surface  was  a  terrible  whirlpool, 
through  which  its  waters  found  their  way  to  the 
ocean  by  some  subterranean  communication. 
All  these  things  had  made  a  frequent  subject  of 
discussion  in  our  desultory  conversations  around 
the  fires  at  night;  and  my  own  mind  had  be- 
come tolerably  well  filled  with  their  indefinite 
pictures,  and  insensibly  colored  with  their  ro- 
mantic descriptions,  which,  in  the  pleasure  of 
excitement,  I  was  well  disposed  to  believe,  and 
half  expected  to  realize. 

"  In  about  six  miles'  travel  from  our  encamp- 
ment, we  reached  one  of  the  points  in  our  jour- 
ney to  which  we  had  always  looked  forward 
with  great  interest — the  famous  Beer  Springs, 
which,  on  account  of  the  effervescing  gas  and 
acid  taste,  had  received  then*  name  from  the 
voyageurs  and  trappers  of  the  country,  who,  in 
the  midst  of  their  rude  and  hard  lives,  are  fond 


GREAT   SALT  LAKE.  117 

of  finding  some  fancied  resemblance  to  the 
luxuries  they  rarely  have  the  good  fortune  to 
enjoy. 

"  Although  somewhat  disappointed  in  the  ex- 
pectations which  various  descriptions  had  led 
me  to  form  of  unusual  beauty  of  situation  and 
scenery,  I  found  it  altogether  a  place  of  very 
great  interest ;  and  a  traveller  for  the  first  time 
in  a  volcanic  region  remains  in  a  constant  ex- 
citement, and  at  every  step  is  arrested  by  some- 
thing remarkable  and  new.  There  is  a  con- 
fusion of  interesting  objects  gathered  together 
in  a  small  space.  Around  the  place  of  encamp- 
ment the  Beer  Springs  were  numerous ;  but,  as 
far  as  we  could  ascertain,  were  entirely  confined 
to  that  locality  in  the  bottom.  In  the  bed  of 
the  river,  in  front,  for  a  space  of  several  hundred 
yards,  they  were  very  abundant;  the  efferves- 
cing gas  rising  up  and  agitating  the  water  in 
countless  bubbling  columns.  In  the  vicinity 
round  about  were  numerous  springs  of  an  en- 
tirely different  and  equally  marked  mineral  char- 
acter. In  a  rather  picturesque  spot,  about  1,300 
yards  below  our  encampment,  and  immediately 
on  the  river  bank,  is  the  most  remarkable  spring 
of  the  place.  In  an  opening  on  the  rock,  a 
white  column  of  scattered  water  is  thrown  up, 
in  form  like  a  jet-fleaM,  to  a  variable  height  of 
about  three  feet,  and,  though  it  is  maintained  in 
a  constant  supply,  its  greatest  height  is  attained 


118  LIFE    OF   FREMONT. 

only  at  regular  intervals,  according  to  the  action 
of  the  force  below.  It  is  accompanied  by  a 
subterranean  noise,  which,  together  with  the 
motion  of  the  water,  makes  very  much  the  im- 
pression of  a  steamboat  in  motion ;  and,  with- 
out knowing  that  it  had  been  already  previously 
so  called,  we  gave  to  it  the  name  of  the  Steam- 
boat Spring.  The  rock  through  which  it  is 
forced  is  slightly  raised  in  a  convex  manner,  and 
gathered  at  the  opening  into  an  urn-mouthed 
form,  and  is  evidently  formed  by  continued  de- 
position from  the  water,  and  colored  bright  red 
by  oxide  of  iron. 

"  It  is  a  hot  spring,  and  the  water  has  a  pun- 
gent and  disagreeable  metallic  taste,  leaving  a 
burning  effect  on  the  tongue.  Within  perhaps 
two  yards  of  the  jet-tfeau,  is  a  small  hole  of 
about  an  inch  in  diameter,  through  which,  at 
regular  intervals,  escapes  a  blast  of  hot  air  with 
a  light  wreath  of  smoke,  accompanied  by  a  reg- 
ular noise." 

As  they  approached  the  lake  they  passed 
over  a  country  of  bold  and  striking  scenery,  and 
through  several  "gates,"  as  they  called  certain 
narrow  valleys.  The  "  standing  rock  "  is  a  huge 
column,  occupying  the  centre  of  one  of  these 
passes.  It  fell  from  a  height  of  perhaps  3,000 
feet,  and  happened  to  remain  in  its  present  up- 
right position. 

At  last,  on  the  6th  of  September,  the  object 


GKEAT   SALT   LAKE.  119 

for  which  their  eyes  had  long  been  straining, 
was  brought  to  view. 

"  Sept.  6.  This  time  we  reached  the  butte 
without  any  difficulty;  and,  ascending  to  the 
summit,  immediately  at  our  feet  beheld  the  ob- 
ject of  our  anxious  search,  the  waters  of  the 
Inland  Sea,  stretching  in  still  and  solitary  gran- 
deur far  beyond  the  limit  of  our  vision.  It  was 
one  of  the  great  points  of  the  exploration  ;  and 
as  we  looked  eagerly  over  the  lake  in  the  first 
emotions  of  excited  pleasure,  I  am  doubtful  if 
the  followers  of  Balboa  felt  more  enthusiasm 
when,  from  the  heights  of  the  Andes,  they  saw 
for  the  first  time  the  great  Western  Ocean.  It 
was  certainly  a  magnificent  object,  and  a  noble 
terminus  to  this  part  of  our  expedition  ;  and  to 
travellers  so  long  shut  up  among  mountain 
ranges,  a  sudden  view  over  the  expanse  of  silent 
waters  had  in  it  something  sublime.  Several 
large  islands  raised  their  high  rocky  heads  out  of 
the  waves  ;  but  whether  or  not  they  were  timbered 
was  still  left  to  our  imagination,  as  the  distance 
was  too  great  to  determine  if  the  dark  hues  upon 
them  were  woodland  or  naked  rock.  During  the 
day  the  clouds  had  been  gathering  black  over  the 
mountains  to  the  westward,  and  while  we  were 
looking  a  storm  burst  down  with  sudden  fury 
upon  the  lake,  and  entirely  hid  the  islands  from 
our  view. 

"  On  the  edge  of  the  stream  a  favorable  spot 


120  LIFE   OF   FREMONT. 

was  selected  in  a  grove  ;  and,  felling  the  timber, 
we  made  a  strong  coral,  or  horse-pen,  for  the  an- 
imals, and  a  little  fort  for  the  people  who  were 
to  remain.  We  were  now  probably  in  the  coun- 
try of  the  Utah  Indians,  though  none  reside 
upon  the  lake.  The  India-rubber  boat  was  re- 
paired with  prepared  cloth  and  gum,  and  filled 
with  air,  in  readiness  for  the  next  day. 

"  The  provisions  which  Carson  had  brought 
with  him  being  now  exhausted,  and  our  stock 
reduced  to  a  small  quantity  of  roots,  I  deter- 
mined to  retain  with  me  only  a  sufficient  num- 
ber of  men  for  the  execution  of  our  design  ;  and 
accordingly  seven  were  sent  back  to  Fort  Hall, 
under  the  guidance  of  Fra^ois  Lajeunesse,  who, 
having  been  for  many  years  a  trapper  in  the 
country,  was  an  experienced  mountaineer. 

"  We  formed  now  but  a  small  family.  With 
Mr.  Preuss  and  myself,  Carson,  Bernier,  and 
Basil  Lajeunesse  had  been  selected  for  the  boat 
expedition — the  first  ever  attempted  on  this  inte- 
rior sea ;  and  Badeau,  with  Derosier,  and  Jacob, 
(the  colored  man,)  were  to  be  left  in  charge  of 
the  camp.  We  were  favored  with  most  delight- 
ful weather.  To-night  there  was  a  brilliant  sun- 
set of  golden  orange  and  green,  which  left  the 
western  sky  clear  and  beautifully  pure  ;  but 
clouds  in  the  east  made  me  lose  an  occultation. 
The  summer  frogs  were  singing  around  us,  and 
the  evening  was  very  pleasant,  with  a  tempera- 


GREAT   SALT   LAKE.  121 

ture  of  60° — a  night  of  a  more  southern  autumn. 
For  our  supper  we  had  yampah,  the  most  agree- 
ably flavored  of  the  roots,  seasoned  by  a  small 
fat  duck,  which  had  come  in  the  way  of  Jacob's 
rifle.  Around  our  fire  to-night  were  many  spec- 
ulations on  what  to-morrow  would  bring  forth  ; 
and  in  our  busy  conjectures  we  fancied  that  we 
should  find  every  one  of  the  large  islands  a  tan- 
gled wilderness  of  trees  and  shrubbery,  teeming 
with  game  of  every  description  that  the  neigh- 
boring region  afforded,  and  which  the  foot  of  a 
white  man  or  Indian  had  never  violated.  Fre- 
quently, during  the  day,  clouds  had  rested  on 
the  summits  of^their  lofty  mountains,  and  we 
believed  that  we  should  find  clear  streams  and 
springs  of  fresh  water ;  and  we  indulged  in  an- 
ticipations of  the  luxurious  repasts  with  which 
we  were  to  indemnify  ourselves  for  past  priva- 
tions. Neither,  in  our  discussions,  were  the 
whirlpool  and  other  mysterious  dangers  forgot- 
ten, which  Indian  and  hunters'  stories  attributed 
to  this  unexplored  lake.  The  men  had  discov- 
ered that,  instead  of  being  strongly  sewed,  (like 
that  of  the  preceding  year,  which  had  so  triumph- 
antly rode  the  canons  of  the  Upper  Great  Platte,) 
our  present  boat  was  only  pasted  together  in  a 
very  insecure  manner,  the  maker  having  been 
allowed  so  little  time  in  the  construction  that  he 
was  obliged  to  crowd  the  labor  of  two  months 
into  several  days.  The  insecurity  of  the  boat 
11 


122  LIFE    OF   FREMONT. 

was  sensibly  felt  by  us ;  and,  mingled  with  the 
enthusiasm  and  excitement  that  we  all  felt  at  the 
prospect  of  an  undertaking  which  had  never  be- 
fore been  accomplished,  was  a  certain  impression 
of  danger,  sufficient  to  give  a  serious  character 
to  our  conversation.  The  momentary  view 
which  had  been  had  of  the  lake  the  day  before, 
its  great  extent  and  rugged  islands,  dimly  seen 
amidst  the  dark  waters  in  the  obscurity  of  the 
sudden  storm,  were  well  calculated  to  heighten 
the  idea  of  undefined  danger  with  which  the 
lake  was  generally  associated. 

"  Sept.  8.  A  calm,  clear  day,  with  a  sunrise 
temperature  of  41°.  In  view  of  our  present  en- 
terprise, a  part  of  the  equipment  of  the  boat  had 
been  made  to  consist  of  three  air-tight  bags, 
about  three  feet  long,  and  capable  each  of  con- 
taining five  gallons.  These  had  been  filled  with 
water  the  night  before,  and  were  now  placed  in 
the  boat,  with  our  blankets  and  instruments,  con- 
sisting of  a  sextant,  telescope,  spy-glass,  ther- 
mometer, and  barometer. 

"  In  the  course  of  the  morning  we  discovered 
that  two  of  the  cylinders  leaked  so  much  as  to 
require  one  man  constantly  at  the  bellows,  to 
keep  them  sufficiently  full  of  air  to  support  the 
boat.  Although  we  had  made  a  very  early  start, 
we  loitered  so  much  on  the  way — stopping  every 
now  and  then,  and  floating  silently  along,  to  get 
a  shot  at  a  goose  or  a  duck — that  it  was  late  in 


GREAT   SALT   LAKE.  123 

the  day  when  we  reached  the  outlet.  The  river 
here  divided  into  several  branches,  filled  with 
fluvials,  and  so  very  shallow  that  it  was  with 
difficulty  we  could  get  the  boat  along,  being 
obliged  to  get  out  and  wade.  We  encamped  on 
a  low  point  among  rushes  and  young  willows, 
where  there  was  a  quantity  of  driftwood,  which 
served  for  our  fires.  The  evening  was  mild  and 
clear ;  we  made  a  pleasant  bed  of  the  young 
willows ;  and  geese  and  ducks  enough  had  been 
killed  for  an  abundant  supper  at  night,  and  for 
breakfast  next  morning.  The  stillness  of  the 
night  was  enlivened  by  millions  of  water-fowl. 

"  September  9.  The  day  was  clear  and  calm ; 
the  thermometer  at  sunrise  at  49.°  As  is  usual 
with  the  trappers  on  the  eve  of  any  enterprise, 
our  people  had  made  dreams,  and  theirs  hap- 
pened to  be  a  bad  one — one  which  always  pre- 
ceded evil — and  consequently  they  looked  very 
gloomy  this  morning ;  but  we  hurried  through 
our  breakfast,  in  order  to  make  an  early  start, 
and  have  all  the  day  before  us  for  our  adventure. 
The  channel  in  a  short  distance  became  so  shal- 
low that  our  navigation  was  at  an  end,  being 
merely  a  sheet  of  soft  mud,  with  a  few  inches  of 
water,  and  sometimes  none  at  ah1,  forming  the 
low-water  shore  of  the  lake.  All  this  place  was 
absolutely  covered  with  flocks  of  screaming 
plover.  We  took  off  our  clothes,  and,  getting 
overboard,  commenced  dragging  the  boat — mak- 


124  LIFE   OF   FREMONT. 

ing,  by  this  operation,  a  very  curious  trail,  and  a 
very  disagreeable  smell  in  stirring  up  the  mud, 
as  we  sank  above  the  knee  at  every  step.  The 
water  here  was  still  fresh,  with  only  an  insipid 
and  disagreeable  taste,  probably  derived  from  the 
bed  of  fetid  mud.  After  proceeding  in  this  way 
about  a  mile,  we  came  to  a  small  black  ridge  on 
the  bottom,  beyond  which  the  water  became  sud- 
denly salt,  beginning  gradually  to  deepen,  and 
the  bottom  was  sandy  and  firm.  It  was  a  re- 
markable division,  separating  the  fresh  water  of 
the  rivers  from  the  briny  water  of  the  lake,  which 
was  entirely  saturated  with  common  salt.  Push- 
ing our  little  vessel  across  the  narrow  boundary, 
we  sprang  on  board,  and  at  length  were  afloat 
on  the  waters  of  the  unknown  sea. 

"  We  did  not  steer  for  the  mountainous  is- 
lands, but  directed  our  course  towards  a  lower 
one,  which  it  had  been  decided  we  should  first 
visit,  the  summit  of  which  was  formed  like  the 
crater  at  the  upper  end  of  Bear  River  valley.  So 
long  as  we  could  touch  the  bottom  with  our 
paddles,  we  were  very  gay ;  but  gradually,  as 
the  water  deepened,  we  became  more  still  in  our 
frail  batteau  of  gum  cloth  distended  with  air, 
and  with  pasted  seams.  Although  the  day  was 
very  calm,  there  was  a  considerable  swell  on  the 
lake ;  and  there  were  white  patches  of  foam  on 
the  surface,  which  were  slowly  moving  to  the 
southward,  indicating  the  set  of  a  current  in  that 


GREAT   SALT   LAKE.  125 

direction,  and  recalling  the  recollection  of  the 
whirlpool  stories.  The  water  continued  to 
deepen  as  we  advanced;  the  lake  becoming 
almost  transparently  clear,  of  an  extremely 
beautiful  bright-green  color;  and  the  spray, 
which  was  thrown  into  the  boat  and  over  our 
clothes,  was  directly  converted  into  a  crust  of 
common  salt,  which  covered  also  our  hands  and 
arms.  '  Captain,'  said  Carson,  who  for  some 
time  had  been  looking  suspiciously  at  some 
whitening  appearances  outside  the  nearest  is- 
lands, '  what  are  those  yonder  ? — won't  you  just 
take  a  look  with  the  glass  ? '  We  ceased  pad- 
dling for  a  moment,  and  found  them  to  be  the 
caps  of  the  waves  that  were  beginning  to  break 
under  the  force  of  a  strong  breeze  that  was  com- 
ing up  the  lake.  The  form  of  the  boat  seemed 
to  be  an  admirable  one,  and  it  rode  on  the  waves 
like  a  water  bird ;  but,  at  the  same  time,  it  was 
extremely  slow  in  its  progress.  When  we  were 
a  little  more  than  half-way  across  the  reach,  two 
of  the  divisions  between  the  cylinders  gave  way, 
and  it  required  the  constant  use  of  the  bellows 
to  keep  in  a  sufficient  quantity  of  ah*.  For  a 
long  time  we  scarcely  seemed  to  approach  our 
island,  but  gradually  we  worked  across  the 
rougher  sea  of  the  open  channel,  into  the 
smoother  water  under  the  lee  of  the  island;  and 
began  to  discover  that -what  we  took  for  a  long 
row  of  pelicans,  ranged  on  the  beach,  were  only 
11  * 


126  LIFE   OF   FREMONT. 

low  cliffs  whitened  with  salt  by  the  spray  of  the 
waves ;  and  about  noon  we  reached  the  shore, 
the  transparency  of  the  water  enabling  us  to  see 
the  bottom  at  a  considerable  depth. 

"  The  cliffs  and  masses  of  rock  along  the  shore 
were  whitened  by  an  incrustation  of  salt  where 
the  waves  dashed  up  against  them  ;  and  the 
evaporating  water,  which  had  been  left  in  holes 
and  hollows  on  the  surface  of  the  rocks,  was 
covered  with  a  crust  of  salt  about  one  eighth  of 
an  inch  in  thickness. 

"  Carrying  with  us  the  barometer  and  other 
instruments,  in  the  afternoon  we  ascended  to 
the  highest  point  of  the  island — a  bare  rocky 
peak,  800  feet  above  the  lake.  Standing  on  the 
summit,  we  enjoyed  an  extended  view  of  the 
lake,  enclosed  in  a  basin  of  rugged  mountains, 
which  sometimes  left  marshy  flats  and  extensive 
bottoms  between  them  and  the  shore,  and  in 
other  places  came  directly  down  into  the  water 
with  bold  and  precipitous  bluffs. 

"  As  we  looked  over  the  vast  expanse  of  water 
spread  out  beneath  us,  and  strained  our  eyes 
along  the  silent  shores  over  which  hung  so  much 
doubt  and  uncertainty,  and  which  were  so  full 
of  interest  to  us,  I  could  hardly  repress  the 
almost  irresistible  desire  to  continue  our  explora- 
tion ;  but  the  lengthening  snow  on  the  moun- 
tains was  a  plain  indication  of  the  advancing 
season,  and  our  frail  linen  boat  appeared  so 


GREAT    SALT   LAKE.  127 

insecure  that  I  was  unwilling  to  trust  our  lives 
to  the  uncertainties  of  the  lake.  I  therefore 
unwillingly  resolved  to  terminate  our  survey 
here,  and  remain  satisfied  for  the  present  with 
what  we  had  been  able  to  add  to  the  unknown 
geography  of  the  region.  We  felt  pleasure  also 
in  remembering  that  we  were  the  first  who,  in 
the  traditionary  annals  of  the  country,  had 
visited  the  islands,  and  broken,  with  the  cheer- 
ful sound  of  human  voices,  the  long  solitude  of 
the  place. 

"  I  accidentally  left  on  the  summit  the  brass 
cover  to  the  object  end  of  my  spy- glass  ;  and  as 
it  will  probably  remain  there  undisturbed  by 
Indians,  it  will  furnish  matter  of  speculation  to 
some  future  traveller.  In  our  excursions  about 
the  island,  we  did  not  meet  with  any  kind  of 
animal ;  a  magpie,  and  another  larger  bird,  prob- 
ably attracted  by  the  smoke  of  our  fire,  paid 
us  a  visit  from  the  shore,  and  were  the  only 
living  things  seen  during  our  stay.  The  rock 
constituting  the  cliffs  along  the  shore  where  we 
were  encamped,  is  a  talcous  rock,  or  steatite, 
with  brown  spar. 

"  At  sunset,  the  temperature  was  70°.  We 
had  arrived  just  in  time  to  obtain  a  meridian 
altitude  of  the  sun,  and  other  observations  were 
obtained  this  evening,  which  place  our  camp  in 
latitude  41°  10'  42",  and  longitude  112°  21'  05" 
from  Greenwich.  From  a  discussion  of  the 


128  LIFE   OF   FREMONT. 

barometrical  observations  made  during  our  stay 
on  the  shores  of  the  lake,  we  have  adopted 
4,200  feet  for  its  elevation  above  the  gulf  of 
Mexico.  In  the  first  disappointment  we  felt 
from  the  dissipation  of  our  dream  of  the  fertile 
islands,  I  called  this  Disappointment  Island. 

"  Out  of  the  driftwood,  we  made  ourselves 
pleasant  little  lodges,  open  to  the  water,  and, 
after  having  kindled  large  fires  to  excite  the 
wonder  of  any  straggling  savage  on  the  lake 
shores,  lay  down,  for  the  first  time  in  a  long 
journey,  in  perfect  security;  no  one  thinking 
about  his  arms.  The  evening  was  extremely 
bright  and  pleasant ;  but  the  wind  rose  during 
the  night,  and  the  waves  began  to  break  heavily 
on  the  shore,  making  our  island  tremble.  I  had 
not  expected  in  our  inland  journey  to  hear  the 
roar  of  an  ocean  surf;  and  the  strangeness  of 

/  o 

our  situation,  and  the  excitement  we  felt  in  the 
associated  interests  of  the  place,  made  this  one 
of  the  most  interesting  nights  I  remember  during 
our  long  expedition. 

"  In  the  morning,  the  surf  was  breaking  heavily 
on  the  shore,  and  we  were  up  early.  The  lake 
was  dark  and  agitated,  and  we  hurried  through 
our  scanty  breakfast,  and  embarked — having 
first  filled  one  of  the  buckets  with  water  from 
the  lake,  of  which  it  was  intended  to  make  salt. 
The  sun  had  risen  by  the  time  we  were  ready 
to  start ;  and  it  was  blowing  a  strong  gale  of 


COLUMBIA   RIVER.  129 

wind,  almost  directly  off  the  shore,  and  raising 
a  considerable  sea,  in  which  our  boat  strained 
very  much.  It  roughened  as  we  got  away  from 
the  island,  and  it  required  all  the  efforts  of  the 
men  to  make  any  head  against  the  wind  and 
sea ;  the  gale  rising  with  the  sun ;  and  there 
was  danger  of  being  blown  into  one  of  the  open 
reaches  beyond  the  island.  At  the  distance  of 
half  a  mile  from  the  beach,  the  depth  of  water 
was  16  feet,  with  a  clay  bottom ;  but,  as  the 
working  of  the  boat  was  very  severe  labor,  and 
during  the  operation  of  rounding  it  was  neces- 
sary to  cease  paddling,  during  which  the  boat 
lost  considerable  way,  I  was  unwilling  to  dis- 
courage the  men,  and  reluctantly  gave  up  my 
intention  of  ascertaining  the  depth,  and  the 
character  of  the  bed.  There  was  a  general 
shout  in  the  boat  when  we  found  ourselves  in 
one  fathom,  and  we  soon  after  landed." 

On  the  afternoon  of  the  12th  they  started 
from  their  Salt  Lake  encampment,  for  the 
Columbia  River,  and  reached  Fort  Hall  on  the 
18th,  at  sunset.  Here  the  party  was  again 
united,  and  preparations  were  made  to  push  on 
to  the  Columbia. 

<;  The  early  approach  of  winter,  and  the  diffi- 
culty of  supporting  a  large  party,  determined  me 
to  send  back  a  number  of  the  men  who  had 
become  satisfied  that  they  were  not  fitted  for 
the  laborious  service  and  frequent  privation  to 


130  LIFE   OF  FREMONT. 

which  they  were  necessarily  exposed,  and  which 
there  was  reason  to  believe  would  become  more 
severe  in  the  further  extension  of  the  voyage.  I 
accordingly  called  them  together,  and,  informing 
them  of  my  intention  to  continue  our  journey 
during  the  ensuing  winter,  in  the  course  of 
which  they  would  probably  be  exposed  to  con- 
siderable hardship,  succeeded  in  prevailing  upon 
a  number  of  them  to  return  voluntarily.  These 
were :  Charles  De  Forrest,  Henry  Lee,  J.  Camp- 
bell, Wm.  Creuss,  A.  Vasquez,  A.  Pera,  Patrick 
White,  B.  Tesson,  M.  Creely,  Francois  Lajeu- 
nesse,  Basil  Lajeunesse.  Among  these,  I  re- 
gretted very  much  to  lose  Basil  Lajeunesse, 
one  of  the  best  men  in  my  party,  who  was 
obliged,  by  the  condition  of  his  family,  to  be  at 
home  in  the  coming  winter." 

Fremont,  with  the  residue  of  his  party,  started 
on  the  23d  of  September,  and  pursued,  for  the 
most  part,  the  course  of  the  Snake  River,  or 
Lewis's  Fork,  and  came  in  sight  of  the  Colum- 
bia on  the  25th  of  October,  at  the  junction  of 
the  Wahlahwahlah,  where  it  was  twelve  hun- 
dred yards  wide.  On  the  4th  of  November  they 
reached  the  Dalles  of  the  Columbia,  so  called 
from  the  trough-like  aspect  of  the  narrow  chasm, 
at  one  place  only  fifty-eight  yards  wide,  through 
which  the  great  river  passes  between  perpendic- 
ular walls  of  basaltic  rock  of  an  average  height 
of  twenty-five  feet.  From  the  Dalles  to  Fort 


COLUMBIA   RIVER.  181 

Vancouver  the  route  was  pursued  in  a  canoe. 
Fremont,  Preuss,  Bernier,  and  Dodson,  with  three 
Indians  to  whom  the  canoe  belonged,  constitut- 
ing the  party.  The  remainder  were  left  in  charge 
of  Carson. 

After  collecting  at  the  fort  the  necessary  pro- 
visions and  supplies  to  refit  and  support  his 
party  during  the  winter  journey  on  which  they 
were  about  to  enter, —  in  which  he  was  aided  by 
the  cordial  cooperation  of  Dr.  McLaughlin,  the 
executive  officer  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Company, 
— he  started  on  his  return  to  the  Dalles  in 
the  afternoon  of  November  10,  his  flotilla 
consisting  of  a  Mackinaw  barge  and  three 
canoes. 

"November  13.  We  had  a  day  of  disagree- 
able and  cold  rain,  and  late  in  the  afternoon 
began  to  approach  the  rapids  of  the  cascades. 

"  The  current  was  now  very  swift,  and  we  were 
obliged.to  cordelle  the  boat  along  the  left  shore, 
where  the  bank  was  covered  with  large  masses 
of  rocks.  Night  overtook  us  at  the  upper  end 
of  the  island,  a  short  distance  below  the  cas- 
cades, and  we  halted  on  the  open  point.  In  the 
mean  time,  the  lighter  canoes,  paddled  altogether 
by  Indians,  had  passed  ahead,  and  were  out  of 
sight.  With  them  was  the  lodge,  which  was  the 
only  shelter  we  had,  with  most  of  the  bedding 
and  provisions.  We  shouted,  and  fired  guns, 
but  all  to  no  purpose,  as  it  was  impossible  for 


132  LIFE   OF   FREMONT. 

them  to  hear  above  the  roar  of  the  river ;  and 
we  remained  all  night  without  shelter,  the  rain 
pouring  down  all  the  time.  The  old  voyageurs 
did  not  appear  to  mind  it  much,  but  covered 
themselves  up  as  well  as  they  could,  and  lay 
down  on  the  sand-beach,  where  they  remained 
quiet  until  morning.  The  rest  of  us  spent  a 
rather  miserable  night ;  and,  to  add  to  our  dis- 
comfort, the  incessant  rain  extinguished  our  fires  ; 
and  we  were  glad  when  at  last  daylight  ap- 
peared, and  we  again  embarked. 

"  Crossing  to  the  right  bank,  we  cordelled  the 
boat  along  the  shore,  there  being  no  longer  any 
use  for  the  paddles,  and  put  into  a  little  bay  be- 
low the  upper  rapids.  Here  we  found  the  lodge 
pitched,  and  about  twenty  Indians  sitting  around 
a  blazing  fire  within,  making  a  luxurious  break- 
fast with  salmon,  bread,  butter,  sugar,  coffee,  and 
other  provisions.  In  the  forest,  on  the  edge  of 
the  high  bluff  overlooking  the  river,  is  an  Indian 
graveyard,  consisting  of  a  collection  of  tombs, 
in  each  of  which  were  the  scattered  bones  of 
many  skeletons.  The  tombs  were  made  of 
boards,  which  were  ornamented  with  many  fig- 
ures of  men  and  animals  of  the  natural  size, — 
from  their  appearance  constituting  the  armorial 
device  by  which,  among  Indians,  the  chiefs  are 
usually  known. 

"  The  masses  of  rock  displayed  along  the  shores 
of  the  ravine  in  the  neighborhood  of  the  cas- 


COLUMBIA   RIVER.  133 

cades,  are  clearly  volcanic  products.  Between 
this  cove,  which  I  called  Graveyard  Bay,  and 
another  spot  of  smooth  water  above  on  the  right 
called  Liiders  Bay,  sheltered  by  a  jutting  point 
of  huge  rocky  masses  at  the  foot  of  the  cascades, 
the  shore  along  the  intervening  rapids  is  lined 
with  precipices  of  distinct  strata  of  red  and  vari- 
ously colored  lavas  in  inclined  positions. 

"  A  gentleman  named  Liiders,  a  botanist,  from 
the  city  of  Hamburg,  arrived  at  the  bay  I  have 
called  by  his  name  while  we  were  occupied 
in  bringing  up  the  boats.  I  was  delighted  to 
meet  at  such  a  place  a  man  of  kindred  pursuits ; 
but  we  had  only  the  pleasure  of  a  brief  conver- 
sation, as  his  canoe,  under  the  guidance  of  two 
Indians,  was  about  to  run  the  rapids ;  and  I 
could  not  enjoy  the  satisfaction  of  regaling  him 
with  a  breakfast  which,  after  his  recent  journey, 
would  have  been  an  extraordinary  luxury.  All 
of  his  few  instruments  and  baggage  were  in  the 
canoe,  and  he  hurried  around  by  land  to  meet  it 
at  the  Graveyard  Bay ;  but  he  was  scarcely  out 
of  sight,  when,  by  the  carelessness  of  the  In- 
dians, the  boat  was  drawn  into  the  midst  of 
the  rapids,  and  glanced  down  the  river,  bottom 
up,  with  the  loss  of  every  thing  it  contained. 
In  the  natural  concern  I  felt  for  his  misfortune, 
I  gave  to  the  little  cove  the  name  of  Luders  Bay. 

"November   15.      We   continued  to-day   our 
work  at  the  portage." 
12 


134  LIFE    OF   FREMONT. 

In  the  afternoon  of  Nov.  18,  they  reached 
the  Dalles.  The  camp  was  immediately  busy 
with  the  last  preparations  for  a  journey  through 
the  unexplored  regions  between  the  Columbia 
River  and  California,  and  embracing  the  central 
basin  of  the  continent  between  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tains and  the  Sierra  Nevada.  It  was  not  origi- 
nally designed  to  cross  the  latter,  but  to  turn 
homewards  over  the  Rocky  Mountains,  at  some 
pass  near  the  head  waters  of  the  Arkansas. 

"  This  was  our  projected  line  of  return — a  great 
part  of  it  absolutely  new  to  geographical,  botani- 
cal, and  geological  science — and  the  subject  of 
reports  in  relation  to  lakes,  rivers,  deserts,  and 
savages  hardly  above  the  condition  of  mere  wild 
animals,  which  inflamed  desire  to  know  what 
this  terra  incognita  really  contained.  It  was  a 
serious  enterprise,  at  the  commencement  of  win- 
ter, to  undertake  the  traverse  of  such  a  region, 
and  with  a  party  consisting  only  of  twenty-five 
persons,  and  they  of  many  nations — American, 
French,  German,  Canadian,  Indian,  and  colored 
— and  most  of  them  young,  several  being  under 
twenty-one  years  of  age.  All  knew  that  a 
strange  country  was  to  be  explored,  and  dangers 
and  hardships  to  be  encountered;  but  no  one 
blenched  at  the  prospect.  On  the  contrary, 
courage  and  confidence  animated  the  whole 
party.  Cheerfulness,  readiness,  subordination, 
prompt  obedience,  characterized  all ;  nor  did  any 


CENTRAL   BASIN.  135 

extremity  of  peril  and  privation,  to  which  we 
were'afterwards  exposed,  ever  belie,  or  derogate 
from,  the  fine  spirit  of  this  brave  and  generous 
commencement.  The  course  of  the  narrative 
will  show  at  what  point,  and  for  what  reasons, 
we  were  prevented  from  the  complete  execution 
of  this  plan,  after  having  made  considerable  pro- 
gress upon  it,  and  how  we  were  forced  by  desert 
plains,  and  mountain  ranges,  and  deep  snows,  far 
to  the  south  and  near  to  the  Pacific  ocean,  and 
along  the  western  base  of  the  Sierra  Nevada ; 
where,  indeed,  a  new  and  ample  field  of  explora- 
tion opened  itself  before  us.  For  the  present, 
we  must  follow  the  narrative,  which  will  first  lead 
us  south  along  the  valley  of  Fall  River,  and  the 
eastern  base  of  the  Cascade  range,  to  the  Tla- 
math  lake,  from  which,  or  its  margin,  three  rivers 
go  in  three  directions — one  west,  to  the  ocean  ; 
another  north,  to  the  Columbia  ;  the  third  south, 
to  California. 

"  For  the  support  of  the  party,  I  had  provided 
at  Vancouver  a  supply  of  provisions  for  not  less 
than  three  monthj;,  consisting  principally  of  flour, 
peas,  and  tallow — the  latter  being  used  in  cook- 
ing ;  and,  in  addition  to  this,  I  had  purchased  at 
the  mission  some  California  cattle,  which  were  to 
be  driven  on  the  hoof.  We  had  104  mules  and 
horses — part  of  the  latter  procured  from  the  In- 
dians about  the  mission  ;  and  for  the  sustenance 
of  which,  our  reliance  was  upon  the  grass  which 


136  LIFE    OF   FREMOXT. 

we  should  find,  and  the  soft  porous  wood,  which 
was  to  be  its  substitute  when  there  was  none. 

"  Mr.  Perkins  succeeded  in  obtaining  as  guide 
to  the  Tlamath  lake  two  Indians,  one  of  whom 
had  been  there,  and  bore  the  marks  of  several 
wounds  he  had  received  from  some  of  the  Indians 
in  the  neighborhood  ;  and  the  other  went  along 
for  company.  In  order  to  enable  us  to  obtain 
horses,  he  despatched  messengers  to  the  various 
Indian  villages  in  the  neighborhood,  informing 
them  that  we  were  desirous  to  purchase,  and 
appointing  a  day  for  them  to  bring  them  in. 

"  We  made,  in  the  mean  time,  several  excur- 
sions in  the  vicinity.  Mr.  Perkins  walked  with 
Mr.  Preuss  and  myself  to  the  heights,  about  nine 
miles  distant  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river, 
whence,  in  fine  weather,  an  extensive  view  may 
be  had  over  the  mountains,  including  seven  great 
peaks  of  the  Cascade  range  ;  but  clouds,  on  this 
occasion,  destroyed  the  anticipated  pleasure,  and 
we  obtained  bearings  only  to  three  that  were 
visible — Mount  Regnier,  St.  Helens,  and  Mount 
Hood.  On  the  heights,  about  one  mile  south  of 
the  mission,  a  very  fine  vie\\rmay  be  had  of 
Mount  Hood  and  St.  Helens.  In  order  to  de- 
termine their  positions  with  as  much  accuracy 
as  possible,  the  angular  distances  of  the  peaks 
were  measured  with  the  sextant,  at  different 
fixed  points  from  which  they  could  be  seen. 

"  The  Indians  brought  in  their  horses  at  the 


CENTRAL    BASIN.  137 

appointed  time,  and  we  succeeded  in  obtaining 
a  number  in  exchange  for  goods  ;  but  they  were 
relatively  much  higher  here,  where  goods  are 
plenty  and  at  moderate  prices,  than  we  had  found 
them  in  the  more  eastern  part  of  our  voyage. 
Several  of  the  Indians  inquired  very  anxiously 
to  know  if  we  had  any  dollars ;  and  the  horses 
we  procured  were  much  fewer  in  number  than  I 
had  desired,  and  of  thin,  inferior  quality;  the 
oldest  and  poorest  being  those  that  were  sold  to 
us.  These  horses,  as  ever  in  our  journey  you 
will  have  occasion  to  remark,  are  valuable  for 
hardihood  and  great  endurance. 

"  November  24.  At  this  place  one  of  the  men 
was  discharged ;  and  at  the  request  of  Mr.  Perkins, 
a  Chinook  Indian,  a  lad  of  nineteen,  who  was 
extremely  desirous  to  "  see  the  whites,"  and 
make  some  acquaintance  with  our  institutions, 
was  received  into  the  party  under  my  especial 
charge,  with  the  understanding  that  I  would 
again  return  him  to  his  friends.  He  had  lived 
for  some  time  in  the  household  of  Mr.  Perkins, 
and  spoke  a  few  words  of  the  English  language. 

"  November  25.  We  were  all  up  early,  in  the 
excitement  of  turning  towards  home.  The  stars 
were  brilliant,  and  the  morning  cold,  the  ther- 
mometer at  daylight  26°. 

Our  preparations  had  been  finally  completed, 
and  to-day  we  commenced  our  journey.  The 
little  wagon  which  had  hitherto  carried  the  in- 
12* 


138  LIFE    OF   FREMONT. 

struments,  I  judged  it  necessary  to  abandon; 
and  it  was  accordingly  presented  to  the  mission. 
In  all  our  long  travelling,  it  had  never  been  over- 
turned or  injured  by  any  accident  of  the  road ; 
and  the  only  things  broken  were  the  glass  lamps, 
and  one  of  the  front  panels,  which  had  been 
kicked  out  by  an  unruly  Indian  horse.  The 
howitzer  was  the  only  wheeled  carriage  now  re- 
maining. We  started  about  noon,  when  the 
weather  had  become  disagreeably  cold,  with  flur- 
ries of  snow.  Our  friend  Mr.  Perkins,  whose 
kindness  had  been  active  and  efficient  during 
our  stay,  accompanied  us  several  miles  on  our 
road ;  when  he  bade  us  farewell,  and  consigned 
us  to  the  care  of  our  guides. 

"  November  27.  A  fine  view  of  Mount  Hood 
this  morning;  a  rose-colored  mass  of  snow, 
bearing  S.  85°  W.  by  compass.  The  sky  is 
clear,  and  the  air  cold ;  the  thermometer  2°.  5 
below  zero ;  the  trees  and  bushes  glittering  white, 
and  the  rapid  stream  filled  with  floating  ice." 

No  one  can  have  an  adequate  idea  of  the  suf- 
ferings endured,  the  obstacles  encountered,  the 
perilous  adventures,  and  fearful  experiences,  in 
this  journey,  without  reading  the  whole  of  Fre- 
mont's Report,  referring  from  point  to  point  to 
the  geography  of  the  country,  as  exhibited  on 
the  map,  drawn  from  his  surveys,  by  his  associate 
Charles  Preuss,  in  1848,  under  an  order  of  the 
Senate  of  the  United  States.  Of  cdurse,  in  such 


CENTRAL   BASIN.  139 

a  work  as  this,"only  glimpses  can  be  given  of 
what  the  heroic  party  went  through ;  and  that 
can  best  be  done  in  extracts  from  the  Report  of 
its  commander. 

"December  14.  Our  road  was  over  a  broad 
mountain,  and  we  rode  seven  hours  in  a  thick 
snowstorm,  always  through  pine  forests,  when 
we  came  down  upon  the  head  waters  of  another 
stream,  on  which  there  was  grass.  The  snow 
lay  deep  on  the  ground,  and  only  the  high 
swamp  grass  appeared  above.  The  Indians 
were  thinly  clad,  and  I  had  remarked  during  the 
day  that  they  suffered  from  the  cold.  This 
evening  they  told  me  that  the  snow  was  getting 
too  deep  on  the  mountain,  and  I  could  not  in- 
duce them  to  go  any  further.  The  stream  we 
had  struck  issued  from  the  mountain  in  an 
easterly  direction,  turning  to  the  southward  a 
short  distance  below ;  and,  drawing  its  course 
upon  the  ground,  they  made  us  comprehend 
that  it  pursued  its  way  for  a  long  distance  in 
that  direction,  uniting  with  many  other  streams, 
and  gradually  becoming  a  great  river.  Without 
the  subsequent  information  which  confirmed 
the  opinion,  we  became  immediately  satisfied 
that  this  water  formed  the  principal  stream  of 
the  Sacramento  River ;  and,  consequently,  that 
this  main  affluent  of  the  Bay  of  San  Francisco 
had  its  source  within  the  limits  of  the  United 
States,  and  opposite  a  tributary  to  the  Colum- 


140  LIFE    OF    FREMONT. 

bia,  and  near  the  head  of  the  Tlamath  River, 
which  goes  to  the  ocean  north  of  42°,  and  within 
the  United  States. 

'•'•December  15.  A  present  consisting  of  useful 
goods  afforded  much  satisfaction  to  our  guides  ; 
and,  showing  them  the  national  flag,  I  explained 
that  it  was  a  symbol  of  our  nation ;  and  they 
engaged  always  to  receive  it  in  a  friendly  man- 
ner. The  chief  pointed  out  a  course,  by  fol- 
lowing which  we  would  arrive  at  the  big  water, 
where  no  more  snow  was  to  be  found.  Cross- 
ing a  hard  frozen  swamp  on  the  further  side  of 
the  Rond,  we  entered  again  the  pine  forest,  in 
which  very  deep  snow  made  our  travelling  slow 
and  laborious.  We  were  slowly  but  gradually 
ascending  a  mountain ;  and,  after  a  hard  jour- 
ney of  seven  hours,  we  came  to  some  naked 
places  among  the  timber,  where  a  few  tufts  of 
grass  showed  above  the  snow,  on  the  side  of  a 
hollow ;  and  here  we  encamped.  Our  cow, 
which  every  day  got  poorer,  was  killed  here,  but 
the  meat  was  rather  tough. 

"  December  16.  We  travelled  this  morning 
through  snow  about  three  feet  deep,  which,  be- 
ing crusted,  very  much  cut  the  feet  of  our  ani- 
mals. The  mountain  still  gradually  rose ;  we 
crossed  several  spring  heads  covered  with  quak- 
ing asp,  otherwise  it  was  all  pine  forest.  The 
air  was  dark  with  falling  snow,  which  every- 
where weighed  down  the  trees.  The  depths  of 


CENTRAL   BASIN.  141 

• 

the  forest  were  profoundly  still ;  and  below,  we 
scarce  felt  a  breath  of  the  wind  which  whirled 
the  snow  through  their  branches.  I  found  that 
it  required  some  exertion  of  constancy  to  ad- 
here steadily  to  one  course  through  the  woods, 
when  we  were  uncertain  how  far  the  forest  ex- 
tended, or  what  lay  beyond ;  and,  on  account  of 
our  animals,  it  would  be  bad  to  spend  another 
night  on  the  mountain.  Towards  noon  the 
forest  looked  clear  ahead,  appearing  suddenly  to 
terminate  ;  and  beyond  a  certain  point  we  could 
see  no  trees.  Riding  rapidly  ahead  to  this  spot, 
we  found  ourselves  on  the  verge  of  a  vertical 
and  rocky  wall  of  the  mountain.  At  our  feet — 
more  than  a  thousand  feet  below — we  looked 
into  a  green  prairie  country,  in  which  a  beau- 
tiful lake,  some  twenty  miles  in  length,  was 
spread  along  the  foot  of  the  mountains,  its 
shores  bordered  with  green  grass.  Just  then  the 
sun  broke  out  among  the  clouds,  and  illumi- 
nated the  country  below,  while  around  us  the 
storm  raged  fiercely.  Not  a  particle  of  ice -was 
to  be  seen  on  the  lake,  or  snow  on  its  borders, 

flk 

and  ah1  was  like  summer  or  spring.  The  glow 
of  the  sun  in  the  valley  below  brightened  up 
our  hearts  with  sudden  pleasure ;  and  we  made 
the  woods  ring  with  joyful  shouts  to  those  be- 
hind ;  and  gradually,  as  each  came  up,  he  stop- 
ped to  enjoy  the  unexpected  scene.  Shivering 
on  snow  three  feet  deep,  and  stiffening  in  a  cold 


142  LIFE    OF   FREMONT. 

north  wind,  we  exclaimed  at  once  that  the 
names  of  Summer  Lake  and  Winter  Ridge 
should  be  applied  to  these  two  proximate  places 
of  such  sudden  and  violent  contrast. 

"  We  were  now  immediately  on  the  verge  of 
the  forest  land,  in  which  we  had  been  travelling 
so  many  days  ;  and  looking  forward  to  the  east, 
scarce  a  tree  was  to  be  seen.  Viewed  from  our 
elevation,  the  face  of  the  country  exhibited  only 
rocks  and  grass,  and  presented  a  region  in 
which  the  artemisia  became  the  principal  wood, 
furnishing  to  its  scattered  inhabitants  fuel  for 
their  fires,  building  material  for  their  huts,  and 
shelter  for  the  small  game  which  ministers  to 
their  hunger  and  nakedness.  Broadly  marked 
by  the  boundary  of  the  mountain  wall,  and 
immediately  below  us,  were  the  first  waters  of 
that  Great  Interior  Basin  which  has  the  Wah- 
satch  and  Bear  River  mountains  for  its  eastern, 
and  the  Sierra  Nevada  for  its  western  rim  ;  and 
the  edge  of  which  we  had  entered  upwards  of 
three  months  before  at  the  Great  Salt  Lake. 

"  When  we  had  sufficiently  admired  the 
scene  below,  we  began  to  think  about  descend- 
ing, which  here  was  impossible,  and  we  turned 
towards  the  north,  travelling  always  along  the 
rocky  wall.  We  continued  on  for  four  or  five 
miles,  making  ineffectual  attempts  at  several 
places ;  and  at  length  succeeded  in  getting 
down  at  one  which  was  extremely  difficult  of 


CENTRAL   BASIN.  143 

descent.  Night  had  closed  in  before  the  fore- 
most had  reached  the  bottom,  and  it  was  dark 
before  we  all  found  ourselves  together  in  the 
valley.  There  were  three  or  four  half-dead  dry 
cedar-trees  on  the  shore,  and  those  who  first 
arrived  kindled  bright  fires  to  light  on  the  others. 
One  of  the  mules  rolled  over  and  over  two  or 
three  hundred  feet  into  a  ravine,  but  recovered 
himself,  without  any  other  injury  than  to  his 
pack;  and  the  howitzer  was  left  midway  the 
mountain  until  morning. 

"  January  10.  We  continued  our  reconnois- 
sance  ahead,  pursuing  a  south  direction  in  the 
basin  along  the  ridge  ;  the  camp  following  slowly 
after.  On  a  large  trail  there  is  never  any  doubt 
of  finding  suitable  places  for  encampments.  We 
reached  the  end  of  the  basin,  where  we  found, 
in  a  hollow  of  the  mountain  which  enclosed  it, 
an  abundance  of  good  bunch  grass.  Leaving  a 
signal  for  the  party  to  encamp,  we  continued 
our  way  up  the  hollow,  intending  to  see  what 
lay  beyond  the  mountain.  The  hollow  was 
several  miles  long,  forming  a  good  pass,  the 
snow  deepening  to  about  a  foot  as  we  neared 
the  summit.  Beyond,  a  defile  between  the 
mountains  descended  rapidly  about  two  thou- 
sand feet ;  and,  filling  up  all  the  lower  space, 
was  a  sheet  of  green  water,  some  twenty  miles 
broad.  It  broke  upon  our  eyes  like  the  ocean. 
The  neighboring  peaks  rose  high  above  us,  and 


144  LIFE   OP  FREMONT. 

we  ascended  one  of  them  to  obtain  a  better  view. 
The  waves  were  curling  in  the  breeze,  and  their 
dark-green  color  showed  it  to  be  a  body  of  deep 
water.  For  a  long  time  we  sat  enjoying  the 
view,  for  we  had  become  fatigued  with  moun- 
tains, and  the  free  expanse  of  moving  waves  was 
very  grateful.  It  was  set  in  the  midst  of  the 
mountains,  which}  from  our  position,  seemed  to 
enclose  it  almost  entirely.  At  the  western  end 
it  communicated  with  the  line  of  basins  we  had 
left  a  few  days  since ;  and  on  the  opposite  side 
it  swept  a  ridge  of  snowy  mountains,  the  foot 
of  the  Great  Sierra.  Its  position  at  first  inclined 
us  to  believe  it  Mary's  Lake,  but  the  rugged 
mountains  were  so  entirely  discordant  with  de- 
scriptions of  its  low  rushy  shores  and  open 
country,  that  we  concluded  it  some  unknown 
body  of  water ;  which  it  afterwards  proved  to 
be. 

"  Towards  evening  the  snow  began  to  «fall 
heavily,  and  the  country  had  a  wintry  appear- 
ance. 

"  The  next  morning  the  snow  was  rapidly 
melting  under  a  warm  sun.  Part  of  the  morning 
was  occupied  in  bringing  up  the  gun ;  and, 
making  only  nine  miles,  we  encamped  on  the 
shore,  opposite  a  very  remarkable  rock  in  the 
lake,  which  had  attracted  our  attention  for  many 
miles.  It  rose,  according  to  our  estimate,  600 
feet  above  the  water ;  and,  from  the  point  we 


CE^7TRAL   BASIN.  145 

viewed  it,  presented  a  pretty  exact  outline  of  the 
great  pyramid  of  Cheops.  Like  other  rocks 
along  the  shore,  it  seemed  to  be  incrusted  with 
calcareous  cement.  This  striking  feature  sug- 
gested a  name  for  the  lake ;  and  I  called  it 
Pyramid  Lake. 

"  January  29.  The  other  division  of  the  party 
did  not  come  in  to-night,  but  encamped  in  the 
upper  meadow,  and  arrived  the  next  morning. 
They  had  not  succeeded  in  getting  the  howitzer 
beyond  the  place  mentioned,  and  where  it  had 
been  left  by  Mr.  Preuss  in  obedience  to  my 
orders ;  and,  in  anticipation  of  the  snow-banks 
and  snow-fields  still  ahead,  foreseeing  the  inevi- 
table detention  to  which  it  would  subject  us,  I 
reluctantly  determined  to  leave  it  there  for  the 
time.  It  was  of  the  kind  invented  by  the  French 
for  the  mountain  part  of  their  war  in  Algiers  ; 
and  the  distance  it  had  come  with  us,  proved 
how  well  it  was  adapted  to  its  purpose.  We 
left  it,  to  the  great  sorrow  of  the  whole  party, 
.who  were  grieved  to  part  with  a  companion 
which  had  made  the  whole  distance  from  St. 
Louis,  and  commanded  respect  for  us  on  some 
critical  occasions,  and  which  might  be  needed 
for  the  same  purpose  again. 

"  February  2.      It  had  ceased  snowing,  and 

this  morning  the  lower  air  was  clear  and  frosty  ; 

and  six  or  seven  thousand  feet  above,  the  peaks 

of  the  Sierra  now  and  then  appeared  among  the 

13 


146  LIFE    OF   FREMOXT. 

rolling  clouds,  which  were  rapidly  dispersing  be- 
fore the  sun.  Our  Indian  shook  his  head  as  he 
pointed  to  the  icy  pinnacles  shooting  high  up 
into  the  sky,  and  seeming  almost  immediately 
above  us.  Crossing  the  river  on  the  ice,  and 
leaving  it  immediately,  we  commenced  the 
ascent  of  the  mountain  along  the  valley  of  a 
tributary  stream.  The  people  were  unusually 
silent;  for  every  man  knew  that  our  enterprise 
was  hazardous,  and  the  issue  doubtful. 

"  The  snow  deepened  rapidly,  and  it  soon  be- 
came necessary  to  break  a  road.  For  this  ser- 
vice, a  party  of  ten  was  formed,  mounted  on  the 
strongest  horses ;  each  man  in  succession  open- 
ing the  road  on  foot,  or  on  horseback,  until  him- 
self and  his  horse  became  fatigued,  when  he 
stepped  aside;  and,  the  remaining  number  pass- 
ing ahead,  he  took  his  station  in  the  rear.  Leav- 
ing this  stream,  and  pursuing  a  very  direct  course, 
we  passed  over  an  intervening  ridge  to  the  river 
we  had  left.  On  the  way  we  passed  two  low 
huts  entirely  covered  with  snow,  which  might 
very  easily  have  escaped  observation.  A  family 
was  living  in  each  ;  and  the  only  trail  I  saw  in 
the  neighborhood  was  from  the  door-hole  to  a 
nut-pine  tree  near,  which  supplied  them  with 
food  and  fuel.  We  found  two  similar  huts  on 
the  creek  where  we  next  arrived ;  and,  travelling 
a  little  higher  up,  encamped  on  its  banks  in 
about  four  feet  depth  of  snow.  Carson  found 


SIERRA    NEVADA.  147 

near  an  open  hill-side,  where  the  wind  and  the 
sun  had  melted  the  snow,  leaving  exposed  suffi- 
cient bunch  grass  for  the  animals  to-night. 

"  February  4.  I  went  ahead  early  with  two 
or  three  men,  each  with  a  led  horse,  to  break  the 
road.  We  were  obliged  to  abandon  the  hollow 
entirely,  and  work  along  the  mountain-side, 
which  was  very  steep,  and  the  snow  covered 
with  an  icy  crust.  We  cut  a  footing  as  we  ad- 
vanced, and  trampled  a  road  through  for  the 
animals ;  but  occasionally  one  plunged  outside 
the  trail,  and  slided  along  the  field  to  the  bottom, 
a  hundred  yards  below.  Late  in  the  day  we 
reached  another  bench  in  the  hollow,  where,  in 
summer,  the  stream  passed  over  a  small  preci- 
pice. Here  was  a  short  distance  of  dividing 
ground  between  the  two  ridges,  and  beyond  an 
open  basin,  some  ten  miles  across,  whose  bottom 
presented  a  field  of  snow.  At  the  further  or 
western  side  rose  the  middle  crest  of  the  moun- 
tain, a  dark-looking  ridge  of  volcanic  rock. 

"  The  summit  line  presented  a  range  of  naked 
peaks,  apparently  destitute  of  snow  and  vegeta- 
tion ;  but  below,  the  face  of  the  whole  country 
was  covered  with  timber  of  extraordinary  size. 

"  Towards  a  pass  which  the  guide  indicated 
here,  we  attempted  in  the  afternoon  to  force  a 
road;  but  after  a  laborious  plunging  through  two 
or  three  hundred  yards,  our  best  horses  gave  out, 
entirely  refusing  to  make  any  further  effort;  and, 


148  LIFE   OP   FJREMOXT. 

for  the  time,  we  were  brought  to  a  stand.  The 
guide  informed  us  that  we  were  entering  the 
deep  snow,  and  here  began  the  difficulties  of  the 
mountain ;  and  to  him,  and  almost  to  all,  our 
enterprise  seemed  hopeless.  I  returned  a  short 
distance  back,  to  the  break  in  the  hollow,  where 
I  met  Mr.  Fitzpatrick. 

"  The  camp  had  been  all  the  day  occupied  in 
endeavoring  to  ascend  the  hill,  but  only  the  best 
horses  had  succeeded.  The  animals  generally 
not  having  sufficient  strength  to  bring  themselves 
up  without  the  packs ;  and  all  the  line  of  road 
between  this  and  the  springs  was  strewed  with 
camp  stores  and  equipage,  and  horses  flounder- 
ing in  snow.  I  therefore  immediately  encamped 
on  the  ground  with  my  own  mess,  which  was  in 
advance,  and  directed  Mr.  Fitzpatrick  to  encamp 
at  the  springs,  and  send  all  the  animals  Jn  charge 
of  Tabeau,  with  a  strong  guard,  back  to  the 
place  where  they  had  been  pastured  the  night 
before.  Here  was  a  small  spot  of  level  ground, 
protected  on  one  side  by  the  mountain  and  on 
the  other  sheltered  by  a  little  ridge  of  rock.  It 
was  an  open  grove  of  pines,  which  assimilated 
in  size  to  the  grandeur  of  the  mountain,  being 
frequently  six  feet  in  diameter. 

"  To-night  we  had  no  shelter,  but  we  made  a 
large  fire  around  the  trunk  of  one  of  the  huge 
pines ;  and  covering  the  snow  with  small  boughs, 
on  which  we  spread  our  blankets,  soon  made 


SIERRA  NEVADA.  149 

ourselves  comfortable.  The  night  was  very  bright 
and  clear,  though  the  thermometer  was  only  at 
10°.  A  strong  wind,  which  sprang  up  at  sun- 
down, made  it  intensely  cold  ;  and  this  was  one 
of  the  bitterest  nights  during  the  journey. 

"  Two  Indians  joined  our  party  here ;  and  one 
of  them,  an  old  man,  immediately  began  to 
harangue  us,  saying  that  ourselves  and  animals 
would,  perish  in  the  snow,  and  that  if  we  would 
go  back,  he  would  show  us  another  and  a  better 
way  across  the  mountain.  He  spoke  in  a  very 
loud  voice,  and  there  was  a  singular  repetition 
of  phrases  and  arrangement  of  words,  \vhich 
rendered  his  speech  striking  .and  not  unmu- 
sical. 

"  We  had  now  begun  to  understand  some 
words,  and,  with  the  aid  of  signs,  easily  com- 
prehended the  old  man's  simple  ideas.  '  Rock 
upon  rock — rock  upon  rock — snow  upon  snow 
— snow  upon  snow,'  said  he ;  '  even  if  you  get 
over  the  snow,  you  will  not  be  able  to  get  down 
from  the  mountains.'  He  made  us  the  sign  of 
precipices,  and  showed  us  how  the  feet  of  the 
horses  would  slip,  and  throw  them  off  from  the 
narrow  trails  which  led  along  their  sides.  Our 
Chino»k,  who  comprehended  even  more  readily 
than  ourselves,  and  believed  our  situation  hope- 
less, covered  his  head  with  his  blanket,  and 
began  to  weep  and  lament.  '  I  wanted  to  see 
the  whites,'  said  he  ;  '  I  came  away  from  my  own 

13* 


150  LIFE   OF   FREMONT. 

people  to  see  the  whites,  and  I  wouldn't  care  to 

die  among  them ;  but  here  ' and  he  looked 

around  into  the  cold  night  and  gloomy  forest, 
and,  drawing  his  blanket  over  his  head,  began 
again  to  lament. 

"  Seated  around  the  tree,  the  fire  illuminating 
the  rocks  and  the  tall  bolls  of  the  pines  round 
about,  and  the  old  Indian  haranguing,  we  pre- 
sented a  group  of  very  serious  faces. 

"February  5.  The  night  had  been  too  cold  to 
sleep,  and  we  were  up  very  early.  Our  guide 
was  standing  by  the  fire  with  all  his  finery  on ; 
and,  seeing  him  shiver  in  the  cold,  I  threw  on 
his  shoulders  one  of  my  blankets.  We  missed 
him  a  few  minutes  afterwards,  and  never  saw 
him  again.  He  had  deserted. 

"  While  a  portion  of  the  camp  were  occupied 
in  bringing  up  the  baggage  to  this  point,  the 
remainder  were  busied  in  making  sledges  and 
snow-shoes.  I  had  determined  to  explore  the 
mountain  ahead,  and  the  sledges  were  to  be  used 
in  transporting  the  baggage. 

"February  6.  Accompanied  by  Mr.  Fitzpat- 
rick,  I  sat  out  to-day  with  a  reconnoitring  party, 
on  snow-shoes.  We  marched  all  in  a  single  file, 
trampling  the  snow  as  heavily  as  we  could.  Cross- 
ing the  open  basin,  in  a  march  of  about  ten 
miles  we  reached  the  top  of  one  of  the  peaks,  to 
the  left  of  the  pass  indicated  by  our  guide.  Far 
below  us,  dimmed  by  the  distance,  was  a  large 


SIEKRA   NEVADA.  151 

snowless  valley,  bounded  on  the  western  side, 
at  the  distance  of  about  a  hundred  miles,  by  a 
low  range  of  mountains,  which  Carson  recog- 
nized with  delight  as  the  mountains  bordering 
the  coast.  '  There,'  said  he,  '  is  the  little  moun- 
tain— it  is  fifteen  years  ago  since  I  saw  it ;  but 
I  am  just  as  sure  as  if  I  had  seen  it  yesterday. 
Between  us,  then,  and  this  low  coast  range,  was 
the  valley  of  the  Sacramento ;  and  no  one  who 
had  not  accompanied  us  through  the  incidents 
of  our  life  for  the  last  few  months,  could  realize 
the  delight  with  which  at  last  we  looked  down 
upon  it.  At  the  distance  of  apparently  thirty 
miles  beyond  us  were  distinguished  spots  of 
prairie ;  and  a  dark  line,  which  could  be  traced 
with  the  glass,  was  imagined  to  be  the  course 
of  the  river ;  but  we  were  evidently  at  a  great 
height  above  the  valley,  and  between  us  and  the 
plains  extended  miles  of  snowy  fields,  and  broken 
ridges  of  pine-covered  mountains. 

"  It  was  late  in  the  day  when  we  turned 
towards  the  camp ;  and  it  grew  rapidly  cold  as 
it  drew  towards  night.  One  of  the  men  became 
fatigued,  and  his  feet  began  to  freeze,  and,  build- 
ing a  fire  in  the  trunk  of  a  dry  old  cedar,  Mr. 
Fitzpatrick  remained  with  him  until  his  clothes 
could  be  dried,  and  he  was  in  a  condition  to 
come  on.  After  a  day's  march  of  twenty,  miles, 
we  straggled  into  camp,  one  after  another,  at 
nightfall ;  the  greater  number  excessively  fatigued, 


152  LIFE    OF   FREMONT. 

only  two  of  the  party  having*  ever  travelled  on 
snow-shoes  before. 

"All  our  energies  were  now  directed  to  getting 
our  animals  across  the  snow ;  and  it  was  sup- 
posed that,  after  all  the  baggage  had  been  drawn 
with  the  sleighs  over  the  trail  we  had  made,  it 
would  be  sufficiently  hard  to  bear  our  animals. 
At  several  places,  between  this  point  and  the 
ridge,  we  had  discovered  some  grassy  spots, 
where  the  wind  and  sun  had  dispersed  the  snow 
from  the  sides  of  the  hills,  and  these  were  to 
form  resting-places  to  support  the  animals  for 
a  night  in  their  passage  across.  On  our  way 
across,  we  had  set  on  fire  several  broken  stumps, 
and  dried  trees,  to  melt  holes  in  the  snow  for  the 
camps.  Its  general  depth  was  five  feet ;  but  we 
passed  over  places  where  it  was  twenty  feet 
deep,  as  shown  by  the  trees. 

"  With  one  party  drawing  sleighs  loaded  with 
baggage,  I  advanced  to-day,  about  four  miles 
along  the  trail,  and  encamped  at  the  first  grassy 
spot  where  we  expected  to  bring  our"  horses. 
Mr.  Fitzpatrick,  with  another  party,  remained 
behind,  to  form  an  intermediate  station  between 
us  and  the  animals. 

"February  8.  The  night  has  been  extremely 
cold;  but  perfectly  still,  and  beautifully  clear. 
Before  the  sun  appeared  this  morning,  the  ther- 
mometer was  33  below  zero;  1°  higher,  when 
his  rays  struck  the  lofty  peaks  ;  and  0°  when 
they  reached  our  camp. 


SIERRA   NEVADA.  153 

"  Scenery  and  weather  combined  must  render 
these  mountains  beautiful  in  summer ;  the  purity 
and  deep- blue  color  of  the  sky  are  singularly 
beautiful ;  the  days  are  sunny  and  bright,  and 
even  warm  in  the  noon  hours ;  and  if  we  could 
be  free  from  the  many  anxieties  that  oppress  us, 
even  now  we  would  be  delighted  here ;  but  our 
provisions  are  getting  fearfully  scant. 

"  Pitting  on  our  snow-shoes,  we  spent  the 
afternoon  in  exploring  a  road  ahead.  The 
.glare  of  the  snow,  combined  with  great  fatigue, 
had  rendered  many  of  the  people  nearly  blind ; 
but  we  were  fortunate  in  having  some  black 
silk  handkerchiefs,  which,  worn  as  veils,  very 
much  relieved  the  eye. 

"  February  11.  In  the  evening  I  received  a 
message  from  Mr.  Fitzpatrick,  acquainting  me 
with  the  utter  failure  of  his  attempt  to  get  our 
mules  and  horses  over  the  snow — the  half-hidden 
trail  had  proved  entirely  too  slight  to  support 
them,  and  they  had  broken  through,  and  were 
plunging  about  or  lying  half-buried  in  snow. 
He  was  occupied  in  endeavoring  to  get  them 
back  to  his  camp  ;  and  in  the  mean  time  sent 
to  me  for  further  instructions.  I  wrote  to  him 
to  send  the  animals  immediately  back  to  their 
old  pastures ;  and,  after  having  made  mauls 
and  shovels,  turn  in  all  the  strength  of  his  party 
to  open  and  beat  a  road  through  the  snow, 
strengthening  it  with  branches  and  boughs  of 
the  pines. 


154  LIFE    OF   FREMONT. 

"  February  12.  We  made  mauls,  and  worked 
hard  at  our  end  of  the  road  all  the  day.  The 
wind  was  high,  but  the  sun  bright,  and  the 
snow  thawing.  We  worked  down  the  face  of 
the  hill,  to  meet  the  people  at  the  other  end. 
Towards  sundown  it  began  to  grow  cold,  and 
we  shouldered  our  mauls  and  trudged  back  to 
camp. 

"  February  13.  We  continued  to  labor  on 
the  road ;  and  in  the  course  of  the  day  had  the 
satisfaction  to  see  the  people  working  down  the* 
face  of  the  opposite  hill,  about  three  miles 
distant.  During  the  morning  we  had  the  plea- 
sure of  a  visit  from  Mr/  Fitzpatrick,  with  the 
information  that  all  was  going  on  well.  A  party 
of  Indians  had  passed  on  snow-shoes,  who  said 
they  were  going  to  the  western  side  of  the 
mountain  after  fish.  This  was  an  indication 
that  the  salmon  were  coming  up  the  streams  ; 
and  we  could  hardly  restrain  our  impatience  as 
we  thought  of  them,  and  worked  with  increased 
vigor. 

"  The  meat  train  did  not  arrive  this  evening, 
and  I  gave  Godey  leave  to  kill  our  little  dog 
(Tlamath,)  which  he  prepared  in  Indian  fashion 
— scorching  off  the  hair,  and  washing  the  skin 
with  soap  and  snow,  and  then  cutting  it  up 
into  pieces,  which  were  laid  on  the  snow.  We 
had  to-night  an  extraordinary  dinner — pea-soup, 
mule,  and  dog. 


SIERRA    NEVADA.  155 

"  February  14.  With  Mr.  Preuss,  I  ascended 
to-day  the  highest  peak  to  the  right;  from  which 
we  had  a  beautiful  view  of  a  mountain  lake  at 
our  feet,  about  fifteen  miles  in  length,  and  so 
entirely  surrounded  by  mountains  that  we  could 
not  discover  an  outlet.  We  had  taken  with  us 
a  glass ;  but,  though  we  enjoyed  an  extended 
view,  the  valley  was  half  hidden  in  mist,  as 
when  we  had  seen  it  before.  Snow  could  be 
distinguished  on  the  higher  parts  of  the  coast 
mountains ;  eastward,  as  far  as  the  eye  could 
extend,  it  ranged  over  a  terrible  mass  of  broken 
snowy  mountains,  fading  off  blue  in  the  dis- 
tance. 

"  February  16.  We  had  succeeded  in  getting 
our  animals  safely  to  the  first  grassy  hill ;  and 
this  morning  I  started  with  Jacob  on  a  recon- 
noitring expedition  beyond  the  mountain.  We 
travelled  along  the  crests  of  narrow  ridges, 
extending  down  from  the  mountain  in  the  direc- 
tion of  the  valley,  from  which  the  snow  was 
fast  melting  away.  On  the  open  spots  was 
tolerably  good  grass;  and  I  judged  we  should 
succeed  in  getting  the  camp  down  by  way  of 
these.  Towards  sundown  we  discovered  some 
icy  spots  in  a  deep  hollow ;  and,  descending  the 
mountain,  we  encamped  on  the  head-water  of 
a  little  creek,  where  at  last  the  water  found  its 
way  to  the  Pacific. 

"  The  night  was  clear  and  very  long.     We 


156  LIFE   OF   FREMONT. 

heard  the  cries  of  some  wild  animals,  which  had 
been  attracted  by  our  fire,  and  a  flock  of  geese 
passed  over  during  the  night.  Even  these 
strange  sounds  had  something  pleasant  to  our 
senses  in  this  region  of  silence  and  desolation. 

"  We  started  again  early  in  the  morning. 
The  creek  acquired  a  regular  breadth  of  about 
20  feet,  and  we  soon  began  to  hear  the  rushing  of 
the  water  below  the  ice  surface,  over  which  we 
travelled  to  avoid  the  snow ;  a  few  miles  below 
we  broke  through,  where  the  water  was  several 
feet  deep,  and  halted  to  make  a  fire  and  dry  our 
clothes.  We  continued  a  few  miles  further, 
walking  being  very  laborious  without  snow- 
shoes. 

"  I  was  now  perfectly  satisfied  that  we  had 
struck  the  stream  on  which  Mr.  Sutter  lived ; 
and,  turning  about,  made  a  hard  push,  and 
reached  the  camp  at  dark.  Here  we  had  the 
pleasure  to  find  all  the  remaining  animals,  57  in 
number,  safely  arrived  at  the  grassy  hill  near  the 
camp ;  and  here,  also,  we  were  agreeably  sur- 
prised with  the  sight  of  an  abundance  of  salt. 
Some  of  the  horse-guard  had  gone  to  a  neigh- 
boring hut  for  pine  nuts,  and  discovered,  unex- 
pectedly, a  large  cake  of  very  white,  fine-grained 
salt,  which  the  Indians  told  them  they  had 
brought  from  the  other  side  of  the  mountain ; 
they  used  it  to  eat  with  their  pine  nuts,  and 
readily  sold  it  for  goods. 


SIERRA   NEVADA.  157 

"  On  the  19th  the  people  were  occupied  in 
making  a  road  and  bringing  up  the  baggage ; 
and,  on  the  afternoon  of  the  next  day,  February 
20,  1844,  we  encamped  with  the  animals  and  all 
the  material  of  the  camp,  on  the  summit  of  the 
Pass  in  the  dividing  ridge,  1,000  miles  by  our 
travelled  road  from  the  Dalles  of  the  Colum- 
bia. 

"  The  people,  who  had  not  yet  been  to  this 
point,  climbed  the  neighboring  peak  to  enjoy  a 
look  at  the  valley. 

"  The  temperature  of  boiling  water  gave  for 
the  elevation  of  the  encampment  9,338  feet 
above  the  sea. 

"  This  was  2,000  feet  higher  than  the  South 
Pass  in  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and  several  peaks 
in  view  rose  several  thousand  feet  still  higher. 
Thus,  at  the  extremity  of  the  continent,  and 
near  the  coast,  the  phenomenon  was  seen  of  a 
range  of  mountains  still  higher  than  the  great 
Rocky  Mountains  themselves.  This  extraordi- 
nary fact  accounts  for  the  Great  Basin,  and 
shows  that  there  must  be  a  system  of  small 
lakes  and  rivers  here  scattered  over  a  flat 
country,  and  which  the  extended  and  lofty 
range  of  the  Sierra  Nevada  prevents  from 
escaping  to  the  Pacific  Ocean.  Latitude  38° 
44',  longitude  120°  28'. 

"  Thus  this  pass  in  the  Sierra  Nevada,  which 
so  well  deserves  its  name  of  Snowy  Mountain, 

14 


158  LIFE    OF    FREMONT. 

is  eleven  degrees  west,  and  about  four  degrees 
south  of  the  South  Pass. 

"  February  21.  We  now  considered  ourselves 
victorious  over  the  mountain ;  having  only  the 
descent  before  us,  and  the  valley  under  our 
eyes,  we  felt  strong  hope  that  we  should  force 
our  way  down.  But  this  was  a  case  in  which 
the  descent  was  not  facile.  Still  deep  fields 
of  snow  lay  between,  and  there  was  a  large 
intervening  space  of  rough-looking  mountains, 
through  which  we  had  yet  to  wind  our  way. 
Carson  roused  me  this  morning  with  an  early 
fire,  and  we  were  all  up  long  before  day,  in 
order  to  pass  the  snow-fields  before  the  sun 
should  render  the  crust  soft.  We  enjoyed  this 
morning  a  scene  at  sunrise,  which  even  here  was 
unusually  glorious  and  beautiful.  Immediately 
above  the  eastern  mountains  was  repeated  a 
cloud-formed  mass  of  purple  ranges,  bordered 
with  bright  yellow  gold ;  the  peaks  shot  up  into 
a  narrow  line  of  crimson  cloud,  above  which 
the  air  was  filled  with  a  greenish  orange ;  and 
over  all  was  the  singular  beauty  of  the  blue  sky. 

"  We  had  hard  and  doubtful  labor  yet  before 
us,  as  the  snow  appeared  to  be  heavier  where 
the  timber  began  further  down,  with  few  open 
spots.  Ascending  a  height,  \ve  traced  out  the 
best  line  we  could  discover  for  the  next  day's 
march,  and  had  at  least  the  consolation  to  see  that 
the  mountain  descended  rapidly.  The  day  had 


CALIFORNIA.  159 

been  one  of  April ;  gusty,  with  a  few  occasional 
flakes  of  snow ;  which,  in  the  afternoon,  envel- 
oped the  upper  mountain  in  clouds.  We 
watched  them  anxiously,  as  now  we  dreaded  a 
snow-storm.  Shortly  afterwards  we  heard  the 
roll  of  thunder,  and,  looking  towards  the  valley, 
found  it  all  enveloped  in  a  thunder-storm.  For 
us,  as  connected  with  the  idea  of  summer,  it 
had  a  singular  charm  ;  and  we  watched  its  pro- 
gress with  excited  feelings  until  nearly  sunset, 
when  the  sky  cleared  oft'  brightly,  and  we  saw  a 
shining  line  of  water  directing  its  course  towards 
another,  a  broader  and  larger  sheet.  We  knew 
that  these  could  be  no  other  than  the  Sacra- 
mento and  the  bay  of  San  Francisco  ;  but,  after 
our  long  wandering  in  rugged  mountains,  where 
so  frequently  we  had  met  with  disappointments, 
and  where  the  crossing  of  every  ridge  displayed 
some  unknown  lake  or  river,  we  were  yet  almost 
afraid  to  believe  that  we  were  at  last  to  escape 
into  the  genial  country  of  which  we  had  heard 
so  many  glowing  descriptions,  and  dreaded 
again  to  find  some  vast  interior  lake,  whose 
bitter  waters  would  bring  us  disappointment. 
On  the  southern  shore  of  what  appeared  to  be 
the  bay,  could  be  traced  the  gleaming  line  where 
entered  another  large  stream. 

"February  23.  This  was  our  most  difficult 
day  ;  we  were  forced  off  the  ridges  by  the  quan- 
tity of  snow  among  the  timber,  and  obliged  to 


160  LIFE   OF  FREMONT. 

take  to  the  mountain-sides,  where,  occasionally, 
rocks  and  a  southern  exposure  afforded  us  a 
chance  to  scramble  along.  But  these  were 
steep  and  slippery  with  snow  and  ice ;  and  the 
tough  evergreens  of  the  mountain  impeded  our 
way,  tore  our  skins,  and  exhausted  our  patience. 
Some  of  us  had  the  misfortune  to  wear  mocca- 
sins with  parfteche  soles,  so  slippery  that  we 
could  not  keep  our  feet,  and  generally  crawled 
across  the  snow  beds.  Axes  and  mauls  were 
necessary  to-day,  to  make  a  road  through  the 
snow.  Going  ahead  with  Carson  to  reconnoitre 
the  road,  we  reached  in  the  afternoon  the  river 
which  made  the  outlet  of  the  lake.  Carson 
sprang  over,  clear  across  a  place  where  the 
stream  was  compressed  among  rocks,  but  the 
parfteche  sole  of  my  moccasin  glanced  from  the 
icy  rock,  and  precipitated  me  into  the  river.  It 
was  some  few  seconds  before  I  could  recover 
myself  in  the  current,  and  Carson  thinking  me 
hurt  jumped  in  after  me,  and  we  both  had  an 
icy  bath.  We  tried  to  search  awhile  for  my 
gun,  which  had  been  lost  in  the  fall,  but  the 
cold  drove  us  out ;  and,  making  a  large  fire  on 
the  bank,  after  we  had  partially  dried  ourselves, 
we  went  back  to  meet  the  camp.  We  after- 
wards found  that  the  gun  had  been  slung  under 
the  ice  which  lined  the  banks  of  the  creek. 

"Using  our   old   plan  of  breaking  the   road 
with  alternate  horses,  we  reached  the  creek  in 


CALIFORNIA.  161 

the  evening,  and  camped  on  a  dry  open  place 
in  the  ravine. 

"February  25.  Continuing  down  the  river, 
which  pursued  a  very  direct  westerly  course 
through  a  narrow  valley,  with  only  a  very  slight 
and  narrow  bottom  land,  we  made  twelve  miles, 
and  encamped  at  some  old  Indian  huts,  ap- 
parently a  fishing-place  on  the  river.  The  bot- 
tom was  covered  with  trees  of  deciduous  foliage, 
and  overgrown  with  vines  and  rushes.  On  a 
bench  of  the  hill  near  by,  was  a  field  of  fresh 
green  grass,  six  inches  long  in  some  of  the  tufts, 
which  I  had  the  curiosity  to  measure.  The 
animals  were  driven  here ;  and  I  spent  part  of 
the  afternoon  sitting  on  a  large  rock  among 
them,  enjoying  the  pauseless  rapidity  with 
which  they  luxuriated  in  the  unaccustomed 
food. 

"  The  forest  was  imposing  to-day  in  the  mag- 
nificence of  the  trees  ;  some  of  the  pines,  bearing 
large  cones,  were  ten  feet  in  diameter ;  cedars 
also  abounded,  and  we  measured  one  twenty- 
eight  and  a  half  feet  in  circumference  four  feet 
from  the  ground.  This  noble  tree  seemed  here 
to  be  in  its  proper  soil  and  climate.  We  found 
it  on  both  sides  of  the  Sierra,  but  most  abundant 
on  the  west. 

"February  26.  We  continued  to  follow  the 
stream,  the  mountains  on  either  hand  increasing 
in  height  a^  we  descended,  and  shutting  up  the 

14* 


162  LIFE   OF   FREMOXT. 

river  narrowly  in  precipices,  along  which  we 
had  great  difficulty  to  get  our  horses. 

"  It  rained  heavily  during  the  afternoon,  and 
we  were  forced  off  the  river  to  the  heights 
above ;  whence  we  descended,  at  nightfall,  the 
point  of  a  spur  between  the  river  and  a  fork  of 
nearly  equal  size,  coming  in  from  the  right. 
Here  we  saw,  on  the  lower  hills,  the  first  flowers 
in  bloom,  which  occurred  suddenly,  and  in  con- 
siderable quantity;  one  of  them  a  species  of 
gilia. 

"  The  current  in  both  streams  (rather  torrents 
than  rivers)  was  broken  by  large  boulders.  It 
was  late,  and  the  animals  fatigued ;  and  not 
succeeding  to  find  a  ford  immediately,  we  en- 
camped, although  the  hill-side  afforded  but  a 
few  stray  bunches  of  grass ;  the  horses,  standing 
about  in  the  rain,  looked  very  miserable. 

'''•February  27.  We  succeeded  in  fording  the 
stream,  and  made  a  trail  by  which  we  crossed 
the  point  of  the  opposite  hill,  which,  on  the 
southern  exposure,  was  prettily  covered  with 
green  grass,  and  we  halted  a  mile  from  our  last 
encampment.  The  river  was  only  about  sixty 
feet  wide,  but  rapid  and  occasionally  deep, 
foaming  among  boulders,  and  the  water  beauti- 
fully clear.  We  encamped  on  the  hill-slope,  as 
there  was  no  bottom  level,  and  the  opposite 
ridge  is  continuous,  affording  no  streams. 

"  We  had  with  us  a  large  kettle ;  and  a  mule 


CALIFORNIA.  163 

being  killed  here,  his  head  was  boiled  in  it  for 
several  hours,  and  made  a  passable  soup  for 
famished  people. 

"  Below,  precipices  on  the  river  forced  us  to 
the  heights,  which  we  ascended  by  a  steep  spur 
two  thousand  feet  high.  My  favorite  horse  Pro- 
veau,  had  become  very  weak,  and  was  scarcely 
able  to  bring  himself  to  the  top.  Travelling 
here  was  good,  except  in  crossing  the  ravines, 
which  were  narrow,  steep,  and  frequent.  We 
caught  a  glimpse  of  a  deer,  the  first  animal  we 
had  seen ;  but  did  not  succeed  in  approaching 
him.  Proveau  could  not  keep  up,  and  I  left 
*  Jacob  to  bring  him  on,  being  obliged  to  press 
forward  with  the  party,  as  there  was  no  grass  in 
the  forest.  We  grew  very  anxious  as  the  day 
advanced  and  no  grass  appeared,  for  the  lives 
of  our  animals  depended  on  finding  it  to-night. 
They  were  in  just  such  a  condition  that  grass 
and  repose  for  the  night  enabled  them  to  get  on 
the  next  day.  Every  hour  we  had  been  ex- 
pecting to  see  open  out  before  us  the  valley, 
which,  from  the  mountain  above,  seemed  almost 
at  our  feet.  The  day  was  nearly  gone  ;  we  had 
made  a  hard  day's  march,  and  found  no  grass. 
Towns  became  light-headed,  wandering  off  into 
the  woods  without  knowing  where  he  was  going, 
and  Jacob  brought  him  back. 

"  Near  nightfall  we  descended  into  the  steep 
ravine  of  a  handsome  creek  thirty  feet  wide,  and 


164  LIFE   OF   FREMONT. 

I  was  engaged  in  getting  the  horse  up  the  op- 
posite hill,  when  I  heard  a  shout  from  Carson, 
who  had  gone  ahead  a  few  hundred  yards :  '  Life 
yet,'  said  he  as  he  came  up,  '  life  yet ;  I  have 
found  a  hill-side  sprinkled  with  grass  enough 
for  the  night.'  We  drove  along  our  horses,  and 
encamped  at  the  place  about  dark,  and  there 
was  just  room  enough  to  make  a  place  for  shel- 
ter on  the  edge  of  the  stream.  Three  horses 
were  lost  to-day, — Proveau ;  a  fine  young  horse 
from  the  Columbia, belonging  to  Charles  Towns  ; 
and  another  Indian  horse  which  carried  our 
cooking  utensils  ;  the  two  former  gave  out,  and 
the  latter  strayed  off  into  the  woods  as  we 
reached  the  camp. 

"February  29.  We  lay  shut  up  in  the  narrow 
ravine,  and  gave  the  animals  a  necessary  day ; 
and  men  were  sent  back  after  the  others.  De- 
rosier  volunteered  to  bring  up  Proveau  to  whom 
he  knew  I  was  greatly  attached,  as  he  had  been 
my  favorite  horse  on  both  expeditions.  Carson 
and  I  climbed  one  of  the  nearest  mountains ; 
the  forest  land  still  extended  ahead,  and  the 
valley  appeared  as  far  as  ever.  The  packhorse 
was  found  near  the  camp,  but  Derosier  did  not 
get  in. 

"March  1.  Derosier  did  not  get  in  during 
the  night,  and  leaving  him  to  follow,  as  no 
grass  remained  here,  we  continued  on  over  the 
uplands,  crossing  many  small  streams,  and 


CALIFORNIA.  165 

camped  again  on  the  river,  having  made  six 
miles.  Here  we  found  the  hill-side  covered  (al- 
though lightly)  with  fresh  green  grass ;  and 
from  this  time  forward  we  found  it  always  im- 
proving and  abundant. 

"  We  made  a  pleasant  camp  on  the  river  hill, 
where  were  some  beautiful  specimens  of  the 
chocolate-colored  shrub,  a  foot  in  diameter 
near  the  ground,  and  from  fifteen  to  twenty 
feet  high.  The  opposite  ridge  runs  continu- 
ously along,  unbroken  by  streams.  We  are 
rapidly  descending  into  the  spring,  and  we  are 
leaving  our  snowy  region  far  behind ;  every- 
thing is  getting  green ;  butterflies  are  swarming ; 
numerous  bugs  are  creeping  out,  wakened  from 
their  winter's  sleep ;  and  the  forest  flowers  are 
coming  into  bloom.  Among  those  which  ap- 
peared most  numerously  to-day  was  dodecatheon 
dentatum. 

"  We  began  to  be  uneasy  at  Derosier's  ab- 
sence, fearing  he  might  have  been  bewildered 
in  the  woods.  Charles  Towns,  who  had  not 
yet  recovered  his  mind,  went  to  swim  in  the 
river,  as  if  it  were  summer,  and  the  stream 
placid,  when  it  was  a  cold  mountain  torrent 
foaming  among  rocks.  We  were  happy  to  see 
Derosier  appear  in  the  evening.  He  came  in, 
and,  sitting  down  by  the  fire,  began  to  tell  us 
where  he  had  been.  He  imagined  he  had  been 
gone  several  days,  and  thought  we  were  still  at 


166  LIFE    OF  FREMONT. 

the  camp  where  he  had  left  us ;  and  we  were 
pained  to  see  that  his  mind  was  deranged.  It 
appeared  that  he  had  been  lost  in  the  mountain, 
and  hunger  and  fatigue,  joined  to  weakness  of 
body,  and  fear  of  perishing  in  the  mountains, 
had  crazed  him.  The  times  were  severe  when 
stout  men  lost  their  minds  from  extremity  of 
suffering — when  horses  died — and  when  mules 
and  horses,  ready  to  die  of  starvation,  were 
killed  for  food.  Yet  there  was  no  murmuring 
or  hesitation." 

On  the  2d  of  March,  Mr.  Preuss  wandered 
from  the  party,  and  was  lost.  Guns  were  fired, 
and  every  effort  made  to  reach  him.  All  were 
filled  with  the  deepest  distress  at  his  disappear- 
ance. On  the  4th  of  March,  Derosier,  having 
volunteered  the  service,  was  sent  back  to  attempt 
to  find  him,  being  charged  to  follow  the  river, 
not  to  continue  the  search  more  than  a  day  and 
a  half,  and,  at  the  end  of  that  time,  to  turn  back 
towards  the  point  from  which  he  started,  where 
a  cache  of  provisions  would  be  left  for  him. 

"  Towards  evening  we  heard  a  weak  shout 
among  the  hills  behind,  and  had  the  pleasure  to 
see  Mr.  Preuss  descending  towards  the  camp. 
Like  ourselves,  he  had  travelled  to-day  twenty- 
five  miles,  but  had  seen  nothing  of  Derosier. 
Knowing,  on  the  day  he  was  lost,  that  I  was  de- 
termined to  keep  the  river  as  much  as  possible, 
he  had  not  thought  it  necessary  to  follow  the 


CALIFORNIA.  167 

trail  very  closely,  but  walked  on  right  and  left, 
certain  to  find  it  somewhere  along  the  river, 
searching  places  to  obtain  good  views  of  the 
country.  Towards  sunset  he  climbed  down 
towards  the  river,  to  look  for  the  camp  ;  but, 
finding  no  trail,  concluded  that  we  were  behind, 
and  walked  back  until  night  came  on,  when,  be- 
ing very  much  fatigued,  he  collected  driftwood 
and  made  a  large  fire  among  the  rocks.  The 
next  day  it  became  more  serious,  and  he  en- 
camped again  alone,  thinking  that  we  must  have 
taken  some  other  course.  To  go  back  would 
have  been  madness  in  his  weak  and  starved  con- 
dition, and  onward  towards  the  valley  was  his 
only  hope,  always  in  expectation  of  reaching  it 
soon.  His  principal  means  of  subsistence  were 
a  few  roots,  which  the  hunters  call  sweet  onions, 
having  very  little  taste,  but  a  good  deal  of  nutri- 
ment, growing  generally  in  rocky  ground,  and 
requiring  a  good  deal  of  labor  to  get,  as  he  had 
only  a  pocket-knife.  Searching  for  these,  he 
found  a  nest  of  big  ants,  which  he  let  run  on  his 
hand,  and  stripped  them  off  in  his  mouth ;  these 
had  an  agreeable  acid  taste.  One  of  his  greatest 
privations  was  the  want  of  tobacco  ;  and  a 
pleasant  smoke  at  evening  would  have  been  a 
relief  which  only  a  voyageur  could  appreciate. 
He  tried  the  dried  leaves  of  the  live  oak,  know- 
ing that  those  of  other  oaks  were  sometimes 
used  as  a  substitute ;  but  these  were  too  thick, 


168  LITE   OF  FKEMONT. 

and  would  not  do.  On  the  4th  he  made  seven 
or  eight  miles,  walking  slowly  along  the  river 
avoiding  as  much  as  possible  to  climb  the  hills. 
In  little  pools  he  caught  some  of  the  smallest 
kind  of  frogs,  which  he  swallowed,  not  so  much 
in  the  gratification  of  hunger,  as  in  the  hope  of 
obtaining  some  strength.  Scattered  along  the 
river  were  old  fire-places,  where  the  Indians  had 
roasted  muscles  and  acorns  ;  but  though  he 
searched  diligently,  he  did  not  there  succeed  in 
finding  either.  He  had  collected  firewood  for 
the  night,  when  he  heard  at  some  distance  from 
the  river  the  barking  of  what  he  thought  were 
two  dogs,  and  walked  in  that  direction  as  quickly 
as  he  was  able,  hoping  to  find  there  some  Indian 
hut,  but  met  only  two  wolves ;  and,  in  his  disap- 
pointment, the  gloom  of  the  forest  was  doubled. 
"  Travelling  the  next  day  feebly  down  the 
river,  he  found  five  or  six  Indians  at  the  huts  of 
which  we  have  spoken.  Some  were  painting 
themselves  black,  and  others  roasting  acorns. 
Being  only  one  man,  they  did  not  run  off,  but 
received  him  kindly,  and  gave  him  a  welcome 
supply  of  roasted  acorns.  He  gave  them  his 
pocket-knife  in  return,  and  stretched  out  his  hand 
to  one  of  the  Indians,  who  did  not  appear  to 
comprehend  the  motion,  but  jumped  back,  as  if 
he  thought  he  was  about  to  lay  hold  of  him. 
They  seemed  afraid  of  him,  not  certain  as  to 
what  he  was. 


CALIFORNIA.  169 

"  Travelling  on,  he  came  to  the  place  where 
we  had  found  the  squaws.  Here  he  found  our  fire 
still  burning,  and  the  tracks  of  the  horses.  The 
sight  gave  him  sudden  hope  and  courage  ;  arid, 
following  as  fast  as  he  could,  joined  us  at  evening. 

"  March  6.  We  now  pressed  on  more  eagerly 
than  ever ;  the  river  swept  round  in  a  large  bend 
to  the  right ;  the  hills  lowered  down  entirely ; 
and,  gradually  entering  a  broad  valley,  we  came 
unexpectedly  into  a  large  Indian  village,  wrhere 
the  people  looked  clean,  and  wore  cotton  shirts  and 
various  other  articles  of  dress.  They  immediately 
crowded  around  us,  and  we  had  the  inexpressible 
delight  to  find  one  who  spoke  a  little  indifferent 
Spanish,  but  who  at  first  confounded  us  by  saying 
there  were  no  whites  in  the  country  ;  but  just  then 
a  well-dressed  Indian  came  up,  and  made  his  salu- 
tations in  very  well-spoken  Spanish.  In  answer 
to  our  inquiries,  he  informed  us  that  we  were 
upon  the  Rio  de  los  Americanos,  (the  river  of  the 
Americans,)  and  that  it  joined  the  Sacramento 
River  about  10  miles  below.  Never  did  a  name 
sound  more  sweetly !  We  felt  ourselves  among 
our  countrymen  ;  for  the  name  of  American,  in 
these  distant  parts  is  applied  to  the  citizens  of 
the  United  States.  To  our  eager  inquiries  he 
answered,  '  I  am  a  vaquero  (cow-herd)  in  the 
service  of  Capt.  Sutter,  and  the  people  of  this 
rancheria  work  for  him.'  Our  evident  satisfac- 
tion made  him  communicative  ;  and  he  went  on 
15 


170  LIFE   OF   FREMONT. 

to  say  that  Capt.  Sutter  was  a  very  rich  man, 
and  always  glad  to  see  his  country  people.  We 
asked  for  his  house.  He  answered  that  it  was 
just  over  the  hill  before  us ;  and  offered,  if  we 
would  wait  a  moment,  to  take  his  horse  and  con- 
duct us  to  it.  We  readily  accepted  his  civil 
offer.  In  a  short  distance  we  came  in  sight  of 
the  fort ;  and,  passing  on  the  way  the  house  of 
a  settler  on  the  opposite  side,  (a  Mr.  Sinclair,) 
we  forded  the  river ;  and  in  a  few  miles  were 
met  a  short  distance  from  the  fort  by  Capt.  Sut- 
ter himself.  He  gave,  us  a  most  frank  and 
cordial  reception — conducted  us  immediately  to 
his  residence — and  under  his  hospitable  roof  we 
had  a  night  of  rest,  enjoyment,  and  refreshment, 
which  none  but  ourselves  could  appreciate.  But 
the  party  left  in  the  mountains  with  Mr.  Fitz- 
patrick  were  to  be  attended  to  ;  and  the  next 
morning,  supplied  with  fresh  horses  and  provis- 
ions, I  hurried  off  to  meet  them.  On  the  second 
day  we  met,  a  few  miles  below  the  forks  of  the 
Rio  de  los  Americanos  ;  and  a  more  forlorn  and 
pitiable  sight  than  they  presented  cannot  well  be 
imagined.  They  were  all  on  foot — each  man, 
weak  and  emaciated — leading  a  horse  or  mule  as 
weak  and  emaciated- as  themselves.  They  had 
experienced  great  difficulty  in  descending  the 
mountains,  made  slippery  by  rains  and  melt- 
ing snows,  and  many  horses  fell  over  precipices, 
and  were  killed  ;  and  with  some  were  lost  the 


CALIFORNIA.  171 

packs  they  carried.  Among  these,  was  a  mule 
with  the  plants  which  we  had  collected  since 
leaving  Fort  Hall,  along  a  line  of  2,000*  miles 
travel.  Out  of  67  horses  and  mules  with  which 
we  commenced  crossing  the  Sierra,  only  33 
reached  the  valley  of  the  Sacramento,  and  they 
only  in  a  condition  to  be  led  along.  Mr.  Fitz- 
patrick  and  his  party,  travelling  more  slowly,  had 
been  able  to  make  some  little  exertion  at  hunt- 
ing, and  had  killed  a  few  deer.  The  scanty  sup- 
ply was  a  great  relief  to  them ;  for  several  had 
been  made  sick  by  the  strange  and  unwholesome 
food  which  the  preservation  of  life  compelled 
them  to  use.  We  stopped  and  encamped  as 
soon  as  we  met ;  and  a  repast  of  good  beef,  ex-" 
cellent  bread,  and  delicious  salmon,  which  I  had 
brought  along,  were  their  first  relief  from  the  suf- 
ferings of  the  Sierra,  and  their  first  introduction 
to  the  luxuries  of  the  Sacramento.  It  required 
all  our  philosophy  and  forbearance  to  prevent 
plenty  from  becoming  as  hurtful  to  us  now  as 
scarcity  had  been  before." 

After  resting  a  few  days,  and  completing  pre- 
parations for  the  homeward  journey,  the  party 
started  on  the  22d-  of  March.  The  next  day 
Derosier,  who  had  returned  in  safety  from  the 
se'arch  for  Mr.  Preuss,  and  whom  Fremont  ever 
regarded  as  among  his  best  men,  wandered 
away  from  the  camp.  It  was  probably  owing 
to  a  return  of  the  mental  derangement  which  the 


172  LIFE    OF   FREMONT. 

sufferings  of  the  recent  journey  had  brought  on. 
All  attempts  to  find  him  were  fruitless,  and  he 
was  never  heard  of  more,  until  after  the  lapse  of 
about  two  years,  he  found  his  way  into  St. 
Louis. 

Before  touching  upon  the  events  of  the  home- 
ward journey,  which  will  be  briefly  done,  we 
may  pause  for  a  moment,  and  reflect  upon  the 
extraordinary  expedition  from  the  Dalles  to  the 
junction  of  the  Americanos  and  the  Sacramento, 
of  which  the  disappearance  of  Derosier  may  be 
considered  the  final  incident. 

When  the  season  of  the  year  at  which  it  started 
from  the  Columbia,  and  the  entirely  unknown 
and  forbidding  character  of  the  region  it  pene- 
trated, are  fully  considered,  it  must  be  allowed 
to  be  one  of  the  boldest  adventures  ever  under- 
taken. It  was  the  first  exploration  of  a  vast  re- 
gion, of  strange  features,  and  occupied  by  savage 
tribes  and  families  that  no  traveller  had  ever 
described  or  seen,  covering  11  degrees  of  latitude 
and  10  of  longitude,  between  4000  and  5000 
feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  and  shut  in  be- 
tween lofty  ranges  crowned  with  perpetual  snow, 
the  Rocky  Mountains  in  the  -east  and  the  Sierra 
Nevada  on  the  west.  Throughout  this  great 
basin,  the  streams  flow  not  into  rivers  seeking 
distant  seas,  but  into  numerous  and  many  of 
them  wide  lakes,  having  no  apparent  connection 
with  the  oceans  of  the  globe,  deeply  impreg- 


GREAT  BASIN.  173 

nated  in  some  instances,  with  saline  and  mineral 
ingredients,  in  some,  turbid  and  thick  with  vege- 
table matter,  but  often  clear,  pure,  refreshing, 
translucent  to  great  depths,  bordered  by  beaches 
of  the  finest  sand,  and  stocked  with  delicious 
fish.  The  shores  are  surrounded  by  pictur- 
esque, bold,  and  magnificent  scenery. 

Some  portions  of  this  vast  tract  are  dreary 
deserts,  in  which  no  animal  can  live,  and  from 
which  nearly  the  whole  vegetable  world  shrinks 
away.  Other  portions  are  fertile  and  luxuriant 
in  the  highest  degree,  possessing  all  that  valley, 
cliff,  meadow,  mountain,  forest,  and  river  can 
contribute  to  the  perfection  of  landscape  beauty. 
Above  is  spread  a  sky,  with  an  atmosphere 
clearer,  and  a  blue  deeper  and  softer,  than  hangs 
over  any  other  region.  Of  this  very  remarkable 
tract,  constituting  the  central  plate  or  basin  of 
the  continent,  Fremont  was  the  first  explorer,  and 
the  heroism,  resolution,  and  unconquerable  per- 
severance of  his  brave  party,  is  one  of  the  most 
interesting  chapters  in  that  series  of  achieve- 
ments which  •  has.  secured  and  subdued  this 
continent  to  our  form  of  civilization,  and  will 
bring  it  all,  at  last,  under  our  flag. 

The  expedition  pursued  its  course  southerly 
along  the  western  base  of  the  Sierra  Nevada, 
crossing  the  heads  of  the  streams  that  flow 
through  California  to  the  Bay  of  San  Francisco. 
On  the  13th  of  April  it  entered  a  pass,  a  little 

15  * 


174  LIFE    OF   FREMONT. 

above  the  35th  parallel  of  latitude,  and  crossed 
the  summit  the  next  day. 

"  As  we  reached  the  summit  of  this  beautiful 
pass,  and  obtained  a  view  into  the  eastern  coun- 
try, we  saw  at  once  that  here  was  the  place  to 
take  leave  of  all  such  pleasant  scenes  as  those 
around  us.  The  distant  mountains  were  now 
bald  rocks  again ;  and  below,  the  land  had  any 
color  but  green.  Taking  into  consideration  the 
nature  of  the  Sierra  Nevada,  we  found  this  pass 
an  excellent  one  for  horses ;  and  with  a  little 
labor,  or  perhaps  with  a  more  perfect  examina- 
tion of  the  localities,  it  might  be  made  suffi- 
ciently practicable  for  wagons.  Its  latitude  and 
longitude  may  be  considered  that  of  our  last  en- 
campment, only  a  few  miles  distant.  The  ele- 
vation was  not  taken,  our  half-wild  cavalcade 
making  it  too  troublesome  to  halt  before  night, 
when  once  started. 

"  We  here  left  the  waters  of  the  Bay  of  San 
Francisco,  and,  though  forced  upon  them  con- 
trary to  my  intentions,  I  cannot  regret  the  neces- 
sity which  occasioned 'the  deviation.  It  made 
me  well  acquainted  with  the  great  range  of  the 
Sierra  Nevada  of  the  Alta  California,  and  showed 
that  this  broad  and  elevated  snowy  ridge  was  a 
continuation  of  the  Cascade  Range,  of  Oregon, 
between  which  and  the  ocean  there  is  still  another 
and  a  lower  range,  parallel  to  the  former  and  to 
the  coast,  and  which  may  be  called  the  Coast 


GREAT   BASIN.  176 

Range.  It  also  made  me  well  acquainted  with 
the  basin  of  the  San  Francisco  Bay,  and  with 
the  two  pretty  rivers  and  their  valleys,  (the  Sac- 
ramento and  San  Joaquin,)  which  are  tributary 
to  that  bay ;  and  cleared  up  some  points  in  ge- 
ography on  which  error  had  long  prevailed.  It 
had  been  constantly  represented,  as  I  have 
already  stated,  that  the  Bay  of  San  Francisco 
opened  far  into  the  interior,  by  some  river  com- 
ing down  from  the  base  of  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tains, and  upon  which  supposed  stream  the 
name  of  Rio  Buenaventura  had  been  bestowed. 
Our  observations  of  the  Sierra  Nevada,  in  the 
long  distance  from  the  head  of  the  Sacramento 
to  the  head  of  the  San  Joaquin,  and  of  the  val- 
ley below  it,  which  collects  ah1  the  waters  of  the 
San  Francisco  Bay,  show  that  this  neither  is  nor 
can  be  the  case.  No  river  from  the  interior  does 
or  can  cross  the  Sierra  Nevada — itself  more 
lofty  than  the  Rocky  Mountains ;  and  as  to  the 
Buenaventura,  the  mouth  of  which,  seen  on  the 
coast,  gave  the  idea  and  the  name  of  the  reputed 
great  river,  it  is,  in  fact,  a  small  stream  of  no 
consequence,  not  only  below  the  Sierra  Nevada, 
but  actually  below  the  Coast  Range,  taking  its 
rise  within  half  a  degree  of  the  ocean,  running 
parallel  to  it  for  about  two  degrees,  and  then 
falling  into  the  Pacific  near  Monterey.  There  is 
no  opening  from  the  Bay  of  San  Francisco  into 
the  interior  of  the  continent.  The  two  rivers 


176  LIFE    OF   FREMONT. 

which  flow  into  it  are  comparatively  short,  and 
not  perpendicular  to  the  coast,  but  lateral  to  it, 
and  having  their  heads  towards  Oregon  and 
Southern  California.  They  open  lines  of  com- 
munication north  and  south,  and  not  eastwardly ; 
and  thus  this  want  of  interior  communication 
from  the  San  Francisco  Bay,  now  fully  ascer- 
tained, gives  great  additional  value  to  the  Co- 
lumbia, which  stands  alone  as  the  only  great 
river  on  the  Pacific  slope  of  our  continent  which 
leads  from  the  ocean  to  the  Rocky  Mountains, 
and  opens  a  line  of  communication  from  the  sea 
to  the  valley  of  the  Mississippi. 

"  Our  cavalcade  made  a  strange  and  grotesque 
appearance,  and  it  was  impossible  to  avoid  re- 
flecting upon  our  position  and  composition  in 
this  remote  solitude.  Within  two  degrees  of  the 
Pacific  ocean,  already  far  south  of  the  latitude 
of  Monterey,  and  still  forced  on  south  by  a  des- 
ert on  one  hand,  and  a  mountain  range  on  the 
other,  guided  by  a  civilized  Indian,  attended  by 
two  wild  ones  from  the  Sierra,  a  Chinook  from 
the  Columbia,  and  our  own  mixture  of  Ameri- 
can, French,  German,  all  armed,  four  or  five  lan- 
guages heard  at  once,  above  a  hundred  horses 
and  mules,  half  wild,  American,  Spanish,  and 
Indian  dresses  and  equipments  intermingled, — 
such  was  our  composition.  Our  march  was  a 
sort  of  procession — scouts  ahead  and  on  the 
flanks,  a  front  and  rear  division,  the  pack  ani- 


GREAT  BASIN.  177 

mals,  baggage,  and  horned  cattle  in  the  centre, 
and  the  whole  stretching  a  quarter  of  a  mile 
along  our  dreary  path. 

"April  25.  In  the  afternoon,  we  were  sur- 
prised by  the  sudden  appearance  in  the  camp  of 
two  Mexicans — a  man  and  a  boy.  The  name 
of  the  man  was  Andreas  Fuentes,  and  that  of 
the  boy  (a  handsome  lad  11  years  old)  Pablo 
Hernandez.  They  belonged  to  a  party  consist- 
ing of  six  persons,  the  remaining  four  being  the 
wife  of  Fuentes,  the  father  and  mother  of  Pablo, 
and  Santiago  Giacome,  a  resident  of  New  Mex- 
ico. With  a  cavalcade  of  about  thirty  horses, 
they  had  come  out  from  Puebla  de  los  Angeles, 
near  the  coast,  under  the  guidance  of  Giacome, 
in  advance  of  the  great  caravan,  in  order  to 
travel  more  at  leisure  and  obtain  better  grass. 
Having  advanced  as  far  into  the  desert  as  was 
considered  consistent  with  their  safety,  they  halt- 
ed at  the  Archilette,  one  of  the  customary  camp- 
ing grounds,  about  eighty  miles  from  our  en- 
campment, where  there  is  a  spring  of  good 
water,  with  sufficient  grass,  and  concluded  to 
await  there  the  arrival  of  the  great  caravan. 
Several  Indians  were  soon  discovered  lurking 
about  the  camp,  who,  in  a  day  or  two  after,  came 
in,  and,  after  behaving  in  a  very  friendly  manner, 
took  their  leave,  without  awakening  any  suspi- 
cions. Their  deportment  begat  a  security  which 
proved  fatal.  In  a  few  days  afterwards,  sud- 


178  LIFE    OF   FREMONT. 

denly  a  party  of  about  one  hundred  Indians  ap- 
peared in  sight,  advancing  towards  the  camp. 
It  was  too  late,  or  they  seemed  not  to  have  pres- 
ence of  mind  to  take  proper  measures  of  safety ; 
and  the  Indians  charged  down  into  their  camp, 
shouting  as  they  advanced,  and  discharging 
flights  of  arrows.  Pablo  and  Fuentes  were  on 
horse-guard  at  the  time,  and  mounted,  according 
to  the  custom  of  the  country.  One  of  the  prin 
cipal  objects  of  the  Indians  was  to  get  posses- 
sion of  the  horses,  and  part  of  them  immedi- 
ately surrounded  the  band  ;  but,  in  obedience  to 
the  shouts  of  Giacome,  Fuentes  drove  the'  ani- 
mals over  and  through  the  assailants,  in  spite  of 
their  arrows ;  and,  abandoning  the  rest  to  their 
fate,  carried  them  off  at  speed  -across  the  plain. 
Knowing  that  they  would  be  pursued  by  the  In- 
dians, without  making  any  halt  except  to  shift 
their  saddles  to  other  horses,  they  drove  them  on 
for  about  sixty  miles,  and  this  morning  left  them 
at  a  watering-place  on  the  trail  called  Agua  de 
Tomaso.  •  Without  giving  themselves  any  time 
for  rest,  they  hurried  on,  hoping  to  meet  the 
Spanish  caravan,  when  they  discovered  my  camp. 
I  received  them  kindly,  taking  them  into  my 
own  mess,  and  promised  them  such  aid  as  cir- 
cumstances might  put  it  in  my  power  to  give." 

Fuentes  was  filled  with  the  deepest  anxiety 
about  the  fate  of  his  wife,  and  Pablo  about  that 
of  his  father  and  mother.  There  was  every 


GREAT    BASIN.  179 

reason,  indeed,  to  fear  the  worst.  The  sensi- 
bilities of  Fremont's  noble-hearted  men  were 
highly  excited  by  the  expressions  of  their  grief, 
and  Carson  and  Godey  volunteered  to  accom- 
pany Fuentes  in  pursuit  of  the  Indians,  hoping 
to  deliver  the  captives,  if  alive,  or  avenge  them, 
if  dead.  Fuentes  returned  the  same  night,  his 
horse  having  given  out,  but  Carson  and  Godey 
kept  on. 

"  In  the  afternoon  of  the  next  day,  a  war- 
whoop  .was  heard,  such  as  Indians  make  when 
returning  from  a  victorious  enterprise;  and  soon 
Carson  and  Godey  appeared,  driving  before 
them  a  band  of  horses,  recognized  by  Fuentes 
to  be  part  of  those  they  had  lost.  Two  bloody 
scalps,  dangling  from  the  end  of  Godey's  gun, 
announced  that  they  had  overtaken  the  Indians, 
as  well  as  the  horses.  They  informed  us,  that 
after  Fuentes  left  them,  from  the  failure  of  his 
horse,  they  continued  the  pursuit  alone,  and 
towards  nightfall  entered  the  mountains,  into 
which  the  trail  led.  After  sunset  the  moon 
gave  light,  and  they  followed  the  trail  by  moon- 
shine until  late  in  the  night,  when  it  entered  a 
narrow  defile,  and  was  difficult  to  follow. 
Afraid  of  losing  it  in  the  darkness  of  the  defile, 
they  tied  up  their  horses,  struck  no  fire,  and  lay 
down  to  sleep  in  silence  and  in  darkness.  Here 
they  lay  from  midnight  till  morning.  At  day- 
light they  resumed  the  pursuit,  and  about  sun- 


180  LIFE    OF   FREMONT. 

rise  discovered  the  horses ;  and,  immediately 
dismounting  and  tying  up  their  own,  they  crept 
'  cautiously  to  a  rising  ground  which  intervened, 
from  the  crest  of  which  they  perceived  the  en- 
campment of  four  lodges  close  by.  They  pro- 
ceeded quietly,  and  had  got  within  thirty  or 
forty  yards  of  then-  object,  when  a  movement 
among  the  horses  discovered  them  to  the  In- 
dians ;  giving  the  war  shout,  they  instantly 
charged  into  the  camp,  regardless  of  the  number 
which  the  four  lodges  would  imply.  The  In- 
dians received  them  with  a  flight  of  arrows 
shot  from  their  long  bows,  one  of.  which 
passed  through  Godey's  shirt  collar,  barely  miss- 
•ing  the  neck  ;  our  men  fired  their  rifles  upon  a 
steady  aim,  and  rushed  in.  Two  Indians  were 
stretched  on  the  ground,  fatally  pierced  with 
bullets ;  the  rest  fled,  except  a  lad  that  was 
captured.  The  scalps  of  the  fallen  were  in- 
stantly stripped  off;  but  in  the  process,  one 
of  them,. who  had  a  ball  through  his  body, 
sprung  to  his  feet,  the  blood  streaming  from  his 
skinned  head,  and  uttering  a  hideous  howl. 
An  old  squaw,  possibly  his  mother,  stopped  and 
looked  back  from  the  mountain  side  she  was 
climbing,  threatening  and  lamenting.  The 
frightful  spectacle  appalled  the  stout  hearts  of 
our  men  ;  but  they  did  what  humanity  required, 
and  quickly  terminated  the  agonies  of  the  gory 
savage.  They  were  now  masters  of  the  camp, 


GREAT   BASIN.  181 

which  was  a  pretty  little  recess  in  the  mountain, 
with  a  fine  spring,  and  apparently  safe  from  all 
invasion.  Great  preparations  had  been  made 
to  feast  a  large  party,  for  it  was  a  very  proper 
place  for  a  rendezvous,  and  for  the  celebration 
of  such  orgies  as  robbers  of  the  desert  would 
delight  in.  Several  of  the  best  horses  had  been 
killed,  skinned,  and  cut  up ;  for  the  Indians  liv- 
ing in  mountains,  and  only  coming  into  the 
plains  to  rob  and  murder,  make  no  other  use  of 
horses  than  to  eat  them.  Large  earthen  vessels 
were  on  the  fire,  boiling  and  stewing  the  horse- 
beef;  and  several  baskets,  containing  fifty  or 
.  sixty  pairs  of  moccasins,  indicated  the  presence, 
or  expectation,  of  a  considerable  party.  They 
released  the  boy,  who  had  given  strong  evidence 
of  the  stoicism,  or  something  else,  of  the  savage 
character,  in  commencing  his  breakfast  upon  a 
horse's  head  as  soon  as  he  found  he  was  not  to 
be  killed,  but  only  tied  as  a  prisoner.  Their  ob- 
ject accomplished,  our  men  gathered  up  all  the 
surviving  horses,  fifteen  in  number,  returned 
upon  their  trail,  and  rejoined  us  at  our  camp  in 
the  afternoon  ^of  the  same  day.  They  had  rode 
about  one  hundred  miles  in  the  pursuit  and  re- 
turn, and  all  in  thirty  hours.  The  time,  place, 
object,  and  numbers  considered,  this  expedition 
of  Carson  and  Godey  may  be  considered  among 
the  boldest  and  most  disinterested  which  the 
annals  of  western  adventure,  so  full  of  daring 

16 


182  LIFE    OF   FREMONT. 

deeds,  can  present.  Two  men,  in  a  savage  des- 
ert, pursue  day  and  night  an  unknown  body  of 
Indians  into  the  denies  of  an  unknown  moun- 
tain— attack  them  on  sight,  without  counting 
numbers — and  defeat  them  in  an  instant, — and 
for  what  ?  To  punish  the  robbers  of  the  desert, 
and  to  avenge  the  wrongs  of  Mexicans  whom 
they  did  not  know.  I  repeat:  it  was  Carson 
and  Godey  who  diji  this — the  former  an  Ameri- 
can, born  in  Kentucky ;  the  latter  a  Frenchman 
by  descent,  bom  in  St.  Louis ;.  and  both  trained 
to  western  enterprise  from  early  life." 

The  foregoing  passage  presents  a  horrid  spec- 
tacle of  the  barbarities  incident  to  a  wilderness 
life.  The  mind  shudders  at  the  details  of  the 
bloody  conflict ;  but  it  was  not  long  before 
ample  and  fearful  evidence  appeared  that  the 
sudden  and  awful  retribution  inflicted  upon  the 
savages  by  the  intrepid  Carson  and  his  well- 
matched  associate,  was  fully  merited. 

"  April  29.  To-day  we  had  to  reach  the  Ar- 
chilette,  distant  seven  miles,  where  the  Mexican 
party  had  been  attacked;  and,  leaving  our  en- 
campment early,  we  traversed  a  part  of  the  des- 
ert, the  most  sterile  and  repulsive  that  we  had 
yet  seen.  Its  prominent  features  were  dark  si- 
erras, naked  and  dry ;  on  the  plains  a  few  strag- 
gling shrubs — among  them,  cactus  of  several 
varieties.  Fuentes  pointed  out  one  called  by 
the  Spaniards  bisnada,  which  has  a  juicy  pulp, 


GREAT   -BASIN.  183 

slightly  acid,  and  is  eaten  by  the  traveller  to 
allay  thirst.  Our  course  was  generally  north ; 
and,  after  crossing  an  intervening  ridge,  we 
descended  into  a  sandy  plain,  or  basin,  in  the 
middle  of  which  was  the  grassy  spot,  with  its 
springs  and  willow  bushes,  which  constitutes  a 
camping-place  in  the  desert,  and  is  called  the 
Archilette.  The  dead  silence  of  the  place  was 
ominous ;  and,  galloping  rapidly  up,  we  found 
only  the  corpses  of  the  two  men ;  every  thing 
else  was  gone.  They  were  naked,  mutilated, 
and  pierced  with  arrows.  Hernandez  had  evi- 
dently fought,  and  with  desperation.  He  lay  in 
advance  of  the  willow,  half-faced  tent,  which 
sheltered  his  family,  as  if  he  had  come  out  to 
meet,  danger,  and  to  repulse  it  from  that  asy- 
lum. "  One  of  his  hands,  and  both  his  legs,  had 
been  cut  off.  Giacome,  who  was  a  large  and 
strong-looking  man,  was  lying  in  one  of  the 
willow  shelters,  pierced  with  arrows.  Of  the 
women  no  trace  could  be  found,  and  it  was  evi- 
dent they  had  been  carried  off  captive.  A  little 
lap-dog,  which  had  belonged  to  Pablo's  mother, 
remained  with  the  dead  bodies,  and  was  frantic 
with  joy  at  seeing  Pablo;  he,  poor  child,  was 
frantic  with  grief ;  and  filled  the  air  with 
lamentations  for  his  father  and  mother.  Mi 
padre  ! — mi  madre  ! — was  his  incessant  cry. 
When  we  beheld  this  pitiable  sight,  and  pic- 
tured to  ourselves  the  fate  of  the  two  women, 


184  LIFE   OF  FREMONT. 

carried  off  by  savages  so  brutal  and  so  loath- 
some, all  compunction  for  the  scalped-alive  In- 
dian ceased;  and  we  rejoiced  that  Carson  and 
Godey  had  been  able  to  give  so  useful  a  lesson 
to  these  American  Arabs,  who  lie  in  wait  to 
murder  and  plunder  the  innocent  traveller. 

"  We  were  all  too  much  affected  by  the  sad 
feelings  which  the  place  inspired,  to  remain 
an  unnecessary  moment.  The  night  "we  were 
obliged  to  pass  there.  Early  in  the  morning  we 
left  it,  having  first  written  a  brief  account  of 
what  had  happened,  and  put  it  in  the  cleft  of  a 
pole  planted  at  the  spring,  that  the  approaching 
caravan  might  learn  the  fate  of  their  friends. 
In  commemoration  of  the  event,  we  called  the 
place  Agua  de  Hernandez — Hernandez's  spring." 

It  was  afterwards  ascertained  that  the  wife  of 
Fuentes,  and  mother  of  Pablo,  -were  both  mur- 
dered at  a  short  distance  beyond,  and  probably 
a  few  hours  after  their  capture,  under  circum- 
stances of  the  most  incredible  and  brutal  cruelty, 
and  after  fiendlike  outrages  and  tortures. 

The  circumstances  just  related  prove  that  Kit 
Carson  is  worthy  of  the  renown  he  enjoys  in  the 
estimation  of  the  backwoodsmen  of  America, 
as  the  hero  of  the  prairies  and  the  mountains. 
His  name  is  so  intimately  identified  with  that 
of  Fremont,  that  these  pages  owe  a  special  trib- 
ute to  his  manly  and  noble  virtues.  They  first 
met  accidentally  on  a  steamboat  above  St. 


Kit  C.irson. 


KIT   CARSON.  185 

Louis,  as  Fremont  was  starting  on  his  first  ex- 
pedition— neither  had  ever  heard  of  the  other. 
But  Carson's  character,  although  then  unknown 
in  the  settlements,  had  long  before  become  an 
object  of  pride  and  admiration  to  every  brave 
heart  among  the  trappers  and  hunters  of 
America. 

Christopher  Carson  was  born  in  Kentucky 
about  the  year  1811,  his  father  having  been  one 
of  the  early  settlers  of  that  State,  and  noted  in 
his  day  as  a  hunter  and  Indian  fighter.  Within 
a  year  or  two  after  the  birth  of  Kit,  the  family 
moved  to  the  then  frontiers  of  Missouri.  At  the 
age  of  fifteen  Kit  joined  a  trading  party  to  Sante 
Fe.  From  that  point  he  went  into  the  lower 
Mexican  provinces,  following  various  adven- 
tures ;  among  others  he  was  employed  for  some 
time  as  a  teamster,  in  connection  with  the  cop- 
per mines  of  Chihuahua.  At  seventeen  years 
of  age  he  commenced  life  as  a  trapper,  in  the 
region  of  the  Rio  Colorado  of  California.  After 
many  perils  he  returned  to  Taos,  in  New  Mexico, 
and  joined  a  trapping  party  to  the  head  waters 
of  the  Arkansas,  and  spent  about  eight  years  in 
that  occupation,  principally  among  the  moun- 
tains where  the  Missouri  and  Columbia  rivers 
take  their  rise.  The  business  of  trapping  was 
then  in  its  more  flourishing  state,  and  formed 
a  class  of  men  of  marked  and  striking  traits. 
Nature  in  her  original  aspects,  and  in  all  her 

16* 


186  LIFE   OF   FREMONT. 

wildness  and  grandeur,  was  their  home.  Sav- 
ages, fierce,  brave,  and  stealthy,  met  them  at 
every  point — and  privation,  danger,  and  suffering 
were  an  ordinary  experience.  This  mode  of  life, 
in  its  perfect  freedom  and  manly  excitements  and 
achievements,  was  favorable  in  many  respects 
to  the  development  of  noble  energies  and  sen- 
timents. Carson  soon  became  preeminent  in 
these  characteristics,  and  was  famous  as  a  suc- 
cessful trapper,  unerring  shot,  and  reliable  guide 
and  leader.  In  conflicts  with  hostile  Indians  he 
conducted  many  a  daring  and  'victorious  enter- 
terprise.  In  one  of  these  conflicts  with  the 
Blackfeet  he  received  a  rifle  ball  in  his  left 
shoulder,  the  only  personal  injury  he  ever  met 
in  battle. 

He  is  a  remarkably  peaceable  and  quiet  man, 
temperate  in  his  habits,  and  strictly  moral  in  his 
deportment.  In  a  letter  written  from  California, 
in  1847,  introducing  Carson  as  the  bearer  of 
despatches  to  the  government,  Col.  Fremont 
says,  "with  me,  Carson  and  truth  mean  the 
same  thing.  He  is  always  the  same — gallant 
and  disinterested."  He  is  kind-hearted,  and 
averse  to  all  quarrelsome  and  turbulent  scenes, 
and  has  never  been  engaged  in  any  mere  per- 
sonal broils  or  encounters,  except  on  one  single 
occasion,  which  he  sometimes  modestly  de- 
scribes to  his  friends.  The  narrative,  as  he  gives 
it,  is  fully  confirmed  by  an  eye-witness,  of  whose 


KIT   CARSON.  187 

presence  at  the  time  he  was  not  aware,  and 
whose  account  he  has  probably  never  seen  or 
heard  of.  I  shall  tell  the  story  as  it  is  gathered 
from  them  both. 

•  In  the  year  1835,  the  Rev.  Samuel  Parker 
made  an  exploring  and  missionary  tour,  under 
the  auspices  of  the  American  Board  of  Com- 
missioners for  Foreign  Missions,  beyond  the 
Rocky  Mountains,  and  as  far  as  the  settlements 
on  the  Columbia  River.  In  his  printed  journal 
he  gives  an  account  of  the  incident  to  which  I  am 
referring ;  it  occurred  on  the  12th  of  August,  at 
a  point  on  the  borders  of  Green  River,  beyond 
the  South  Pass,  on  the  occasion  of  a  "  rendez- 
vous," that  is,  on  a  spot  selected  for  Indians, 
trappers,  and  hunters  to  bring  to  market  their 
peltries,  and  obtain  supplies  from  the  agents  of 
the  Fur  Companies.  There  was  a  large  con- 
course of  savage  tribes,  and  all  the  various  deni- 
zens of  the  wilderness.  There  were  Frenchmen, 
Spaniards,  Dutchmen,  Canadians,  and  Western 
backwoodsmen.  The  Rev.  Mr.  Parker  happened 
to  be  there,  to  witness  the  strange  gathering. 
Of  course  there  were  some  rude  characters,  and 
not  a  little  irregularity  and  disorder.  Conflicts 
were  liable  to  arise  between  quarrelsome  persons, 
growing  out  of  the  feuds  among  the  tribes,  and 
animosities  between  the  representatives  of  differ- 
ent nations,  all  actuated  by  pride  cf  race  or 
country. 


188  LIFE    OF   FREMONT. 

A  hunter,  named  Shunan,  a  Frenchman, 
who  was  well  known  by  the  title  of  the  "  big 
bully  of  the  mountains,"  mounted  his  horse  with 
a  loaded  rifle,  and  dashing  defiantly  around, 
challenged  any  person,  of  any  nationality,  to 
meet  him  in  single  combat.  He  boasted  of  his 
exploits,  and  used  the  most  insulting  and  irritat- 
ing language,  and  was  particularly  insolent  and 
abusive  towards  Americans,  whom  he  described 
as  only  worth  being  whipped  with  switches. 
Kit  Carson  was  in  the  crowd,  and  his  patriotic 
spirit  kindled  at  the  taunt.  He  at  once  stepped 
forward  and  said,  "  I  am  an  American,  the  most 
trifling  one  among  them,  but  if  you  wish  to  die, 
I  will  accept  your  challenge."  Shunan  defied 
him.  Carson  at  once  leaped  upon  his  horse, 
with  a  loaded  pistol,  and  both  dashed  into  close 
conflict.  They  fired,  almost  at  the  same  mo- 
ment, but  Carson  an  instant  the  quickest.  Their 
horses  heads  touched.  Shunan's  ball  just  grazed 
Carson's  cheek,  near  the  left  eye,  and  cut  off 
some  locks  of  his  hair.  Carson's  ball  entered 
Shunan's  hand,  came  out  at  the  wrist,  and  passed 
through  his  arm  above  the  elbow.  The  bully 
begged  for  his  life,  and  it  was  spared. 

This  put  an  effectual  stop  to  all  such  insolent 
proceedings,  and  Americans  were  insulted  no 
longer.  We  shall  have  occasion  to  refer  to  Car- 
son at  several  points  in  the  residue  of  this  work. 
He  is  still  living,  being  yet,  indeed,  in  his  prime. 


KIT   CARSON.       .         ,  189 

President  Polk  nominated  him  to  the  Senate  for 
a  commission  in  the  army,  corresponding  to 
what  he  had  held  in  the  California  battalion, 
that  of  a  lieutenancy  in  the  Rifle  corps.  The 
nomination  was  not  confirmed  by  the  Senate. 
His  faithful  commander  has  recorded  his  name 
on  the  geography  of  the  continent,  by  calling 
after  him  a  river  and  a  lake,  in  the  great  basin 
they  explored  together.  He  is,  at  this  time,  In- 
dian agent  for  New  Mexico.  He  was  early 
married  to  a  Sioux  woman,  to  whom  he  was 
devotedly  attached.  She  died,  leaving  one 
daughter.  Carson's  present  wife  is  a  New  Mex- 
ican lady  of  great  worth  and  respectability. 

The  following  passage  from  Fremont's  Jour- 
nal conveys  a  vivid  idea  of  the  wilder  races  of 
Indians : — 

"  In  the  darkness  of  the  night  we  had  made  a 
very  bad  encampment,  our  fires  being  com- 
manded by  a  rocky  bluff  within  fifty  yards ;  but, 
notwithstanding,  we  had  the  river  and  small 
thickets  of  willows  on  the  other  side.  Several 
times  during  the  day  the  camp  was  insulted  by 
the  Indians ;  but  peace  being  our  object,  I  kept 
simply  on  the  defensive.  Some  of  the  Indians 
were  on  the  bottoms,  and  others  haranguing  us 
from  the  bluffs  ;  and  they  were  scattered  in  every 
direction  over  the  hills.  Their  language  being 
probably  a  dialect  of  the  Utah,  with  the  aid  of 
signs  some  of  our  people  could  comprehend  them 


190  LIFE   OF   FREMONT. 

very  well.  They  were  the  same  people  who  had 
murdered  the  Mexicans ;  and  towards  us  their 
disposition  was  evidently  hostile,  nor  were  we 
well  disposed  towards  them.  They  were  bare- 
footed and  nearly  naked  ;  their  hair  gathered  up 
into  a  knot  behind ;  and  with  his  bow  each  man 
carried  a  quiver  with  thirty  or  forty  arrows  par- 
tially drawn  out.  Besides  these,  each  held  in 
his  hand  two  or  three  arrows  for  instant  service. 
Their  arrows  are  barbed  with  a  very  clear  translu- 
cent stone,  a  species  of  opal,  nearly  as  hard  as  the 
diamond;  and,  shot  from  their  long  bow,  are 
almost  as  effective  as  a  gunshot.  In  these  In- 
dians, I  was  forcibly  struck  by  an  expression  of 
countenance  resembling  that  in  a  beast  of  prey  ; 
and  all  their  actions  are  those  of  wild  animals. 
Joined  to  the  restless  motion  of  the  eye,  there  is 
a  want  of  mind — an  absence  of  thought — and 
an  action  wholly  by  impulse,  strongly  expressed, 
and  which  constantly  recalls  the  similarity. 

"  A  man  who  appeared  to  be  a  chief,  with  two 
or  three  others,  forced  himself  into  camp,  bring- 
ing with  him  his  arms,  in  spite  of  my  orders  to 
the  contrary.  When  shown  our*  weapons,  he 
bored  his  ear  with  his  fingers,  and  said  he  could 
not  hear.  '  Why,'  said  he,  '  there  are  none  of 
you.'  Counting  the  people  around  the  camp, 
and  including  in  the  number  a  mule  which  was 
being  shod,  he  made  out  twenty-two.  '  So 
many,'  said  he,  showing  the  number,  '  and  we — 


KIT   CARSON.  191 

we  are  a  great  many ; '  and  he  pointed  to  the 
hills  and  mountains  round  about.  '  If  you  have 
your  arms,'  said  he,  twanging  his  bow,  'we  have 
these.'  I  had  some  difficulty  in  restraining  the 
people,  particularly  Carson,  who  felt  an  insult  of 
this  kind  as  much  as  if  it  had  been  given  by  a 
more  responsible  being.  '  Don't  say  that,  old 
man,'  said  he ;  '  don't  you  say  that — your  life's 
in  danger,' — speaking  in  good  English  ;  and 
probably  the  old  man  was  nearer  to  his  end 
than  he  will  be  before  he  meets  it. 

"  I  had  been  engaged  in  arranging  plants ; 
and,  fatigued  with  the  heat  of  the  day,  I  fell 
asleep  in  the  afternoon,  and  did  not  awake  until 
sundown.  Presently  Carson  came  to  me,  and 
reported  that  Tabeau,  who  early  in  the  day  had 
left  his  post,  and,  without  my  knowledge,  rode 
back  to  the  camp  we  had  left,  in  search  of  a 
lame  mule,  had  not  returned.  While  we  were 
speaking,  a  smoke  rose  suddenly  from  the  cotton- 
wood  grove  below,  which  plainly  told  us  what 
had  befallen  him.  It  was  raised  to  inform  the 
surrounding  Indians  that  a  blow  had  been  struck, 
and  to  tell  them  to  be  on  their  guard.  Carson, 
with  several  men  well  mounted,  was  instantly 
sent  down  the  river,  but  returned  in  the  night 
without  tidings  of  the  missing  man.  They  went 
to  the  camp  we  had  left,  but  neither  he  nor  the 
mule  was  there.  Searching  down  the  river,  they 
found  the  tracks  of  the  mule,  evidently  driven 


192  LIFE    OP   FREMONT. 

along  by  Indians,  whose  tracks  were  on  each 
side  of  those  made  by  the  animal.  After  -going 
several  miles,  they  came  to  the  mule  itself,  stand- 
ing in  some  bushes,  mortally  wounded  in  the 
side  by  an  arrow,  and  left  to  die,  that  it  might 
be  afterwards  butchered  for  food.  They  also 
found  in  another  place,  as  they  were  hunting 
about  on  the  ground  for  Tabeau's  tracks,  some- 
thing that  looked  like  a  little  puddle  of  blood, 
but  which  the  darkness  prevented  them  from  ver- 
ifying. With  these  details  they  returned  to  our 
camp,  and  their  report  saddened  all  our  hearts. 

"May  10.  This  morning,  as  soon  as  there  was 
light  "enough  to  foUow  tracks,  I  set  out  myself 
with  Mr.  Fitzpatrick  and  several  men  in  search 
of  Tabeau.  We  went  to  the  spot  where  the 
appearance  of  puddled  blood  had  been  seen ; 
and  this,  we  saw  at  once,  had  been  the  place 
where  he  fell  and  died.  Blood  upon  the  leaves 
and  beaten-down  bushes,  showed  that  he  had 
got  his  wound  about  twenty  paces  from  where 
he  fell,  and  that  he  had  struggled  for  his  life. 
He  had  probably  been  shot  through  the  lungs 
with  an  arrow.  From  the  place  where  he  lay 
and  bled,  it  could  be  seen  that  he  had  been 
dragged  to  the  river  bank,  and  thrown  into  it. 
No  vestige  of  what  had  belonged  to  him  could 
be  found,  except  a  fragment  of  his  horse  equip- 
ment. Horse,  gun,  clothes — all  became  the  prey 
of  these  Arabs  of  the  New  World. 


UTAH   LAKE.  193 

'  "  Tabeau  had  been  one  of  our  best  men,  and 
his  unhappy  death  spread  a  gloom  over  our 
party.  Men,  who  have  gone  through  such  dan- 
gers and  sufferings  as  we  had  seen,  become  like 
brothers,  and  feel  each  other's  loss.  To  defend 
and  avenge  each  other,  is  the  deep  feeling  of 
all.  We  wished  to  avenge  his  death ;  but  the 
condition  of  our  horses,  languishing  for  grass 
and  repose,  forbade  an  expedition  into  unknown 
mountains.  We  knew  the  tribe  who  had  done 
the  mischief — the  same  which  had  been  insulting 
our  camp.  They  knew  what  they  deserved,  and 
had  the  discretion  to  show  themselves  to  us  no 
more.  The  day  before,  they  infested  our  camp  ; 
now,  not  one  appeared ;  nor  did  we  ever  after- 
wards see  but  one  who  even  belonged  to  the 
same  tribe,  and  he  at  a  distance." 

The  circumstances  of  the  murder,  by  these 
savages,  of  one  of  the  tried  and  faithful  followers 
of  Fremont,  shows  the  perils  that  always  hang 
round  a  party  travelling  through  the  regions  over 
which  they  roam. 

On  the  24th  of  May,  the  expedition,  having 
skirted  the  southern  rim  of  the  great  basin, 
reached  the  Utah  Lake.  At  this  point  it  is  emi- 
nently proper  to  let  Fremont  himself  review  his 
route. 

"  Early  the  next  day  we  came  in  sight  of  the 
lake ;  and,  as  we  descended  to  the  broad  bottoms 
of  the  Spanish  Fork,  three  horsemen  were  seen 

17 


194  LIFE    OP   FREMONT. 

galloping  towards  us,  who  proved  to  be  Utah 
Indians — scouts  from  a  village,  which  was  en- 
camped near  the  mouth  of  the  river.  They 
were  armed  with  rifles,  and  their  horses  were  in 
good  condition.  We  encamped  near  them,  on 
the  Spanish  Fork,  which  is  one  of  the  principal 
tributaries  to  the  lake.  Finding  the  Indians 
troublesome,  and  desirous  to  remain  here  a  day, 
we  removed  the  next  morning  further  down  the 
lake,  and  encamped  on  a  fertile  bottom  near 
the  foot  of  the  same  mountainous  ridge  which 
borders  the  Great  Salt  Lake,  and  along  which 
we  had  journeyed  the  previous  September. 

"  We  had  now  accomplished  an  object  we  had 
in  view  when  leaving  the  Dalles  of  the  Columbia 
in  November  last;  we  had  reached  the  Utah 
Lake ;  but  by  a  route  very  different  from  what 
we  had  intended,  and  without  sufficient  time 
remaining  to  make  the  examinations  which  were 
desired.  It  is  a  lake  of  note  in  this  country, 
under  the  dominion  of  the  Utahs,  who  resort  to 
it  for  fish.  Its  greatest  breadth  is  about  fifteen 
miles,  stretching  far  to  the  north,  narrowing  as  it 
goes,  and  connecting  with  the  Great  Salt  Lake. 

"  In  arriving  at  the  Utah  Lake,  we  had  com- 
pleted an  immense  circuit  of  twelve  degrees 
diameter  north  and  south,  and  ten  degrees  east 
and  west;  and  found  ourselves  in  May,  1844,  on 
the  same  sheet  of  water  which  we  had  left  in 
September,  1843.  The  Utah  is  the  southern 


GEOGRAPHY   OP   THE   CONTINENT.  195 

limb  of  the  Great  Salt  Lake ;  and  thus  we  had 
seen  that  remarkable  sheet  of  water  both  at  its 
northern  and  southern  extremity,  and  were  able 
to  fix  its  position  at  these  two  points.  The 
circuit  which  we  had  made,  and  which,  had 
cost -us  eight  months  of  time,  and  3,500  miles  of 
travelling,  had  given  us  a  view  of  Oregon  and 
of  North  California  from  the  Rocky  Mountains 
to  the  Pacific  ocean,  and  of  the  two  principal 
streams  which  form  bays  or  harbors  on  the  coast 
of  that  sea.  Having  completed  this  circuit,  and 
being  now  about  to  turn  the  back  upon  the 
Pacific  slope  of  our  continent,  and  to  recross  the 
Rocky  Mountains,  it  is  natural  to  look  back  upon 
our  footsteps,  and  take  some  brief  view  of  the 
leading  features  and  general  structure  of  the 
country  we  had  traversed.  These  are  peculiar 
and  striking,  and  differ  essentially  from  the 
Atlantic  side  of  our  country.  The  mountains 
all  are  higher,  more  numerous,  and  more  dis- 
tinctly defined  in  their  ranges  and  directions ; 
and,  what  is  so  contrary  to  the  natural  order  of- 
such  formations,  one  of  these  ranges,  which  is 
near  the  coast,  (the  Sierra  Nevada  and  the  Coast 
Range,)  presents  higher  elevations  and  peaks 
than  any  which  are  to  be  found  in  the  Rocky 
Mountains  themselves.  In  our  eight  months' 
circuit,  we  were  never  out  of  sight  of  snow ; 
and  the  Sierra  Nevada,  where  we  crossed  it, 
was  near  2,000  feet  higher  than  the  South  Pass 


196  LIFE    OF    FREMONT. 

in  the  Rocky  Mountains.  In  height,  these 
mountains  greatly  exceed  those  of  the  Atlantic 
side,  constantly  presenting  peaks  which  enter 
the  region  of  eternal  snow ;  and  some  of  them 
volcanic,  and  in  a  frequent  state  of  activity. 
They  are  seen  at  great  distances  and  guide  the 
traveller  in  his  courses. 

"  The  course  and  elevation  of  these  ranges  give 
direction  to  the  rivers,  and  character  to  the  coast. 
No  great  river  does,  or  can,  take  its  rise  below 
the  Cascade  and  Sierra  Nevada  Range  ;  the  dis- 
tance to  the  sea  is  too  short  to  admit  of  it.  The 
rivers  of  the  San  Francisco  Bay,  which  are  the 
largest  after  the  Columbia,  are  local  to  that  bay, 
and  lateral  to  th'e  coast,  having  their  sources 
about  on  a  line  with  the  Dalles  of  the  Columbia, 
and  running  each  in  the  valley  of  its  own, 
between  the  Coast  Range  and  the  Cascade  and 
Sierra  Nevada  Range.  The  Columbia  is  the 
only  river  which  traverses  the  whole  breadth 
of  the  country,  breaking  through  all  the  ranges, 
and  entering  the  sea.  Drawing  its  waters  from 
a  section  of  ten  degrees  of  latitude  in  the  Rocky 
Mountains,  which  are  collected  into  one  stream 
by  three  main  forks,  (Lewis's,  Clark's,  and  the 
North  Fork,)  near  the  centre  of  the  Oregon 
valley,  this  great  river  thence  proceeds  by  a 
single  channel  to  the  sea,  while  its  three  forks 
lead  each  to  a  pass  in  the  mountains,  which 
opens  the  way  into  the  interior  of  the  continent. 


GEOGKAPIIY   OP   THE   CONTINENT.  197 

This  fact  in  relation  .to  the  rivers  of  this  region 
gives  an  immense  value  to  the  Columbia.  Its 
mouth  is  the  only  inlet  and  outlet  to  and  from 
the  sea ;  its  three  forks  lead  to  the  passes  in  the 
mountains ;  it  is,  therefore,  the  only  line  of  com- 
munication between  the  Pacific  and  the  interior 
of  North  America  ;  and  all  operations  of  war  or 
commerce,  of  national  or  social  intercourse,  must 
be  conducted  upon  it.  This  gives  it  a  value 
beyond  estimation,  and  would  involve  irreparable 
injury  if  lost.  In  this  unity  and  concentration 
of  its  waters,  the  Pacific  side  of  our  continent 
differs  entirely  from  the  Atlantic  side,  where  the 
waters  of  the  Alleghany  Mountains  are  dispersed 
into  many  rivers,  having  their  different  entrances 
into  the  sea,  and  opening  many  lines  of  commu- 
nication with  the  interior. 

"  The  Pacific  coast  is  equally  different  from 
that  of  the  Atlantic.  The  coast  of  the  Atlantic 
is  low  and  open,  indented  with  numerous  bays, 
sounds,  and  river  estuaries,  accessible  every- 
where, and  opening  by  many  channels  into  the 
heart  of  the  country.  The  Pacific  coast,  on  the 
contrary,  is  high  and  compact,  with  few  bays, 
and  but  one  that  opens  into  the  heart  of  the 
country.  The  immediate  coast  is  what  the  sea- 
men call  iron  bound.  A  little  within,  it  is  skirted 
by  two  successive  ranges  of  mountains,  standing 
as  ramparts  between  the  sea  and  the  interior 
country  ;  and  to  get  through  which,  there  is  but 

17* 


198  LIFE  OF  FREMONT. 

one  gate,  and  that  narrow,  and  easily  defended. 
This  structure  of  the  coast,  backed  by  these  two 
ranges  of  mountains,  with  its  concentration  and 
unity  of  waters,  gives  to  the  country  an  immense 
military  strength,  and  will  probably  render  Ore- 
gon the  most  impregnable  country  in  the  world. 
"  Differing  so  much  from  the  Atlantic  side  of 
our  continent,  in  coast,  mountains,  and  rivers, 
the  Pacific  side  differs  from  it  in  another  most 
rare  and  singular  feature — that  of  the  Great  in- 
terior Basin,  of  which  I  have  so  often  spoken, 
and  the  whole '  form  and  character  of  which  I 
was  so  anxious  to  ascertain.  Its  existence  is 
vouched  for  *by  such  of  the  American  traders 
and  hunters  as  have  some  knowledge  of  that 
region  ;  the  structure  of  the  Sierra  Nevada  range 
of  mountains  requires  it  to  be  there ;  and  my 
own  observations  confirm  it.  Mr.  Joseph  Walker, 
who  is  so  well  acquainted  in  those  parts,  in- 
formed me  that,  from  the  Great  Salt  Lake  west, 
there  was  a  succession  of  lakes  and  rivers  which 
have  no  outlet  to  the  sea,  nor  any  connection 
with  the  Columbia,  or  with  the  Colorado  of  the 
Gulf  of  California.  He  described  some  of  these 
lakes'  as  being  large,  with  numerous  streams, 
and  even  considerable  rivers,  falling  into  them. 
In  fact,  all  concur  in  the  general  report  of  these 
interior  rivers  and  lakes ;  and,  for  want  of  under- 
standing the  force  and  power  of  evaporation, 
which  so  soon  establishes  an  equilibrium  be- 


GEOGRAPHY   OF   THE   CONTINENT.  199 

tween  the  loss  and  supply  of  waters,  the  fable  of 
whirlpools  and  subterraneous  outlets  has  gained 
belief  as  the  only  imaginable  way  of  carrying 
off  the  waters  which  have  no  visible  discharge. 
The  structure  of  the  country  would  require  this 
formation  of  interior  lakes  ;  for  the  waters  which 
would  collect  between  the  Rocky  Mountains  and 
the  Sierra  Nevada,  not  being  able  to  cross  this 
formidable  barrier,  nor  to  get  to  the  Columbia 
or  the  Colorado,  must  naturally  collect  into  res- 
ervoirs, each  of  which  would  have  its  little 
system  of  streams  and  rivers  to  supply  it.  This 
would  be  the  natural  effect ;  and  what  I  saw 
went  to  confirm  it.  The  Great  Salt  Lake  is  a 
formation  of  this  kind,  and  quite  a  large  one ; 
and  having  many  streams,  and  one  considerable 
river,  four  or  five  hundred  miles  long,  falling  into 
it.  This  lake  and  river  I  saw  and  examined 
myself;  and  also  saw  the  Wahsatch  and  Bear 
River  Mountains  which  enclose  the  waters  of 
the  lake  on  the  east,  and  constitute,  in  that  quar- 
ter, the  rim  of  the  Great  Basin.  Afterwards, 
along  the  eastern  base  of  the  Sierra  Nevada, 
where  we  travelled  for  forty-two  days,  I  saw  the 
line  of  lakes  and  rivers  which  lie  at  the  foot  of 
that  Sierra;  and  which  Sierra  is  the  western 
rim  of  the  Basin.  In  going  down  Lewis's  Fork 
and  the  main  Columbia,  I  crossed  only  inferior 
streams  coming  in  from  the  left,  such  as  could 
draw  then:  water  from  a  short  distance  only  ;  and 


200  LIFE    OF   FREMONT. 

I  often  saw  the  mountains  at  their  heads,  white 
with  snow ;  which,  all  accounts  said,  divided  the 
waters  of  the  desert  from  those  of  the  Columbia, 
and  which  could  be  no  other  than  the  range  of 
mountains  which  form  the  rim  of  the  Basin  on 
its  northern  side.  And  in  returning  from  Cali- 
fornia along  the  Spanish  trail,  as  far  as  the  head 
of  the  Santa  Clara  Fork  of  the  Rio  Virgen,  I 
crossed  only  small  streams  making  their  way 
south  to  the  Colorado,  or  lost  in  sand — as  the 
Mo-hah-ve ;  while  to  the  left,  lofty  mountains, 
their  summits  white  with  snow,  were  often  visi- 
ble, and  which  must  have  turned  water  to  the 
north  as  well  as  to  the  south,  and  thus  consti- 
tuted, on  this  part,  the  southern  rim  of  the  Basin. 
At  the  head  of  the  Santa  Clara  Fork,  and  in  the 
Vegas  de  Santa  Clara,  we  crossed  the  ridge 
which  parted  the  two  systems  of  waters.  We 
entered  the  Basin  at  that  point,  and  have  trav- 
elled in  it  ever  since,  having  its  southeastern  rim 
(the  Wahsatch  mountain)  on  the  right,  and 
crossing  the  streams  which  flow  down  into  it. 
The  existence  of  the  Basin  is,  therefore,  an  es- 
tablished fact  in  my  mind ;  its  extent  and  con- 
tents are  yet  to  be  better  ascertained.  It  cannot 
be  less  than  four  or  five  hundred  miles  each  way, 
and  must  lie  principally  in  the  Alta  California  ; 
the  demarcation  latitude  of  42°  probably  cutting 
a  segment  from  the  north  part  of  the  rim.  Of 
its  interior,  but  little  is  known.  It  is  called  a 


GREAT    BASIX.  201 

desert,  and,  from  what  I  saw  of  it,  sterility  may 
be  its  prominent  characteristic  ;  but  where  there 
is  so  much  water,  there  must  be  some  oasis. 
The  great  river  and  the  great  lake  reported 
may  not  be  equal  to  the  report ;  but  where  there 
is  so  much  snow,  there  must  be  streams ;  and 
where  there  is  no  outlet,  there  must  be  lakes  to 
hold  the  accumulated  waters,  or  sands  to  swal- 
low them  up.  In  this  eastern  part  of  the  basin, 
containing  Sevier,  Utah,  and  the  Great  Salt 
lakes,  and  the  rivers  and  creeks  falling  into 
them,  we  know  there  is  good  soil  and  good 
grass,  adapted  to  civilized  settlements.  In  the 
western  part,  on  Salmon-trout  River,  and  some 
other  streams,  the  same  remark  may  be  made. 

"  The  contents  of  this  Great  Basin  are  yet  to 
be  examined.  That  it  is  peopled,  we  know ;  but 
miserably  and  sparsely.  From  all  that  I  heard 
and  saw,  I  should  say  that  humanity  here  ap- 
peared in  its  lowest  form,  and  in  its  most  ele- 
mentary state.  Dispersed  in  single  families ; 
without  fire-arms ;  eating  seeds  and  insects ; 
digging  roots,-  (and  hence  their  name ;)  such  is 
the  condition  of  the  greater  part.  Others  are  a 
degree  higher,  and  live  in  communities  upon 
some  lake  or  river  that  supplies  fish,  and  from 
which  they  repulse  the  miserable  digger.  The 
rabbit  is  the  largest  animal  known  in  this  desert ; 
its  flesh  affords  a  little  meat ;  and  their  bag-like 
covering  is  made  of  its  skins.  The  wild  sage  is 


202  LIFE    OF    FREMONT. 

their  only  wood,  and  here  it  is  of  extraordinary 
size — sometimes  a  foot  in  diameter,  and  six  or 
eight  feet  high.  It  serves  for  fuel,  for  building 
material,  for  shelter  to  the  rabbits,  and  for  some 
sort  of  covering  for  the  feet  and  legs'  in  cold 
weather.  Such  are  the  accounts  of  the  inhabit- 
ants and  productions  of  the  Great  Basin ;  and 
which,  though  imperfect,  must  have  some  foun- 
dation, and  excite  our  desire  to  know  the  whole. 

"  The  whole  idea  of  such  a  desert  and  such  a 
people,  is  a  novelty  in  our  country,  and  excites 
Asiatic,  not  American  ideas.  Interior  basins, 
with  their  own  systems  of  lakes  and  rivers,-  and 
often  sterile,  are  common  enough  in  Asia ; 
people  in  the  elementary  state  of  families,  living 
in  deserts,  with  no  other  occupation  than  the 
mere  animal  search  for  food,  may  still ^e  seen  in 
that  ancient  quarter  of  the  globe ;  but  in  Amer- 
ica such  things  are  new  and  strange,  unknown 
and  unsuspected,  and  discredited  when  related. 
But  I  flatter  myself  that  what*  is  discoyepejjf 
though  not  enough. to  satisfy  curiosity,  is  suffi- 
cient to  excite  it,  and  that  subsequent  explora- 
tions will  complete  what  has  been  commenced. 

"  This  account  of  th.e  Great  Basin,  it  will  be 
remembered,  belongs  to  the  Alta  California,  and 
has  no  application  to  Oregon,  whose  capabilities 
may  justify  a  separate  remark.  Referring  to  my 
Journal  for  particular  descriptions,  and  for  sec- 
tional boundaries  between  good  and  bad  districts, 


OREGON.  203 

I  can  only  say,  in  general  and  comparative  terms, 
that,  in  that  branch  of  agriculture  which  implies 
the  cultivation  of  grains  and  staple  crops,  it 
would  be  inferior  to  the  Atlantic  States,  though 
many  parts  are  superior  for  wheat,  while  in  the 
rearing  of  flocks  and  herds  it  would  claim  a  high 
place.  Its  grazing  capabilities  are  great ;  and 
even  in  the  indigenous  grass  now  there,  an  ele- 
ment of  individual  and  national  wealth  may  be 
found.  In  fact,  the  valuable  grasses  begin  within 
one  hundred  and  fifty  miles  of  the  Missouri  fron- 
tier, and  extend  to  the  Pacific  Ocean.  East  of 
the  Rocky  Mountains,  it  is  the  short,  curly  grass, 
on  which  the  buffalo  delight  to  feed,  (whence  its 
name  of  buffalo,)  and  which  is  still  good  when 
dry  and  apparently  dead.  West  of  those  moun- 
tains it  is  a  larger  growth,  in  clusters,  and  hence 
called  bunch  grass,  and  which  has  a  second  or 
fall  growth.  Plains  and  mountains  both  exhibit 
them ;  and  I  have  seen  good  pasturage  at  an 
elevation  of  ten  thousand  feet.  In  this  sponta- 
neous product,  the  trading  or  travelling  cara- 
vans can  find  subsistence  for  their  animals ;  and 
in  military  operations  any  number  of  cavalry 
may  be  moved,  and  any  number  of  cattle  may 
be  driven,  and  thus  men  and  horses  be  supported 
on  long  expeditions,  and  even  in  winter  in  the 
sheltered  situations. 

"  Commercially,  the  value  of  the  Oregon  coun- 
try must  be  great,  washed  as  it  is  by  the  North 


204  LIFE    OF   FREMONT. 

Pacific  Ocean,  fronting  Asia,  producing  many  of 
the  elements  of  commerce,  mild  and  healthy  in 
its  climate,  and  becoming,  as  it  naturally  will, 
a  thoroughfare  for  the  East  India  and  China 
trade." 

Having  examined  the  Three  Parks,  or  coves 
in  the  mountains,  where  the  great  rivers,  the 
Platte,  the  Arkansas,  and  the  Colorado  severally 
take  their  rise,  Mr.  Fremont  continued  his  route 
homeward  with  no  further  noticeable  occurrence, 
except  an  occasional  encounter  with  armed  bands 
of  Indians,  who,  always  finding  him  ready  to 
fight,  limited  their  demonstrations  to  mere  pre- 
liminary bravadoes.  When  within  a  fortnight 
of  the  end  of  the  journey,  the  river  suddenly 
overflowed  its  banks  one  nighf,  and  nearly  all 
the  perishable  collections  that  the  hard  labor  of 
many  months  had  accumulated,  were  destroyed 
in  a  moment. 

The  Report  of  Lieut.  Fremont's  Second  Ex- 
pedition concludes  as  follows  : — 

"Here  ended  our  land  journey;  and  the  day 
following  our  arrival,  we  found  ourselves  on 
board  a  steamboat,  rapidly  gliding  down  the 
broad  Missouri.  Our  travel-worn  animals  had 
not  been  sold  and  dispersed  over  the  country  to 
renewed  labor,  but  were  placed  at  good  pastur- 
age on  the  frontier,  and  are  now  ready  to  do 
their  part  in  the  coming  expedition. 

"On  the  6th  of   August  we  arrived   at   St. 


ARRIVAL  HOME.  205 

Louis,  where  the  party  was  finally  disbanded,  a 
greater  number  of  the  men  having  their  homes 
in  the  neighborhood. 

"  Andreas  Fuentes  also  remained  here,  having 
readily  found  employment  for  the  winter,  and  is 
one  of  the  men  engaged  to  accompany  me  the 
present  year. 

"  Pablo  Hernandez  remains  in  the  family  of 
Senator  Benton,  where  he  is  well  taken  care  of, 
and  conciliates  good-will  by  his  docility,  intelli- 
gence, and  amiability.  General  Almonte,  the 
Mexican  Minister  at  Washington,  to  whom  he 
was  of  course  made  known,  kindly  offered  to 
take  charge  of  him,  and  to  carry  him  back  to 
Mexico  ;  but  the  boy  preferred  to  remain  where 
he  .was  until  he  got  an  education,  for  which  he 
shows  equal  ardor  and  aptitude. 

"  Our  Chinook  Indian  had  his  wish  to  see  the 
whites  fully  gratified.  He  accompanied  me  to 
Washington,  and,  after  remaining  several  months 
at  the  Columbia  College,  was  sent  by  the  Indian 
Department  to  Philadelphia,  where,  among  other 
things,  he  learned  to  read  and  write  well,  and 
speak  the  English  language  with  some  fluency. 

"  He  will  accompany  me  in  a  few  days  to  the 
frontier  of  Missouri,  whence  he  will  be  sent  with 
some  one  of  the  emigrant  companies  to  the  vil- 
lage at  the  Dalles  of  the  Columbia." 

Appended  to  the  Reports  of  the  First  and 
Second  Expeditions,  as  published  together,  in 

18 


206  LIFE    OF   FREMONT. 

1845,  by  order  of  Congress,  besides  the  usual 
scientific  tables,  records,  specimens,  and  calcula- 
tions, there  is  a  map,  of  which  the  author  gives 
the  following  account,  in  the  preface. 

"  This  map  may  have  a  meagre  and  skeleton 
appearance  to  the  general  eye,  but  is  expected 
to  be  more  valuable  to  science  on  that  account, 
being  wholly  founded  upon  positive  data  and 
actual  operations  in  the  field.  About  ten  thou- 
sand miles  of  actual  travelling  and  traversing  in 
the  wilderness  which  lies  between  the  frontiers 
of  Missouri  and  the  shores  of  the  Pacific,  almost 
every  camping  station  being  the  scene  of  astro- 
nomical or  barometrical  observations,  furnish  the 
materials  out  of  which 'this  map  has  been  con- 
structed. Nothing  supposititious  has  been  ad- 
mitted upon  it ;  so  that,  connecting  with  Capt. 
Wilkes's  survey  of  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia, 
and  with  the  authentic  surveys  of  the  State  of 
Missouri,  it  fills  up  the  vast  geographical  chasm 
between  these  two  remote  points,  and  presents  a 
connected  and  accurate  view  of  our  continent 
from  the  Mississippi  River  to  the  Pacific  Ocean. 

"  To  this  geographical  map,  delineating  the 
face  of  the  country  over  which  we  travelled, 
there  is  added  another  in  profile,  showing  the 
elevations,  or  the  rise  and  fall  of  the  country 
from  the  Mississippi  to  the  Pacific.  East  of  the 
Rocky  Mountains,  two  of  these  profile  views  are 
given, — one  from  St.  Louis  to  the  South  Pass, 


PROFILE    MAP.  207 

the  other  from  the  mouth  of  the  Great  Platte  to 
the  same  point.  The  latter  is  the  shortest ;  and 
following,  as  it  does,  the  regular  descent  of  the 
river,  and  being  seven  hundred  miles  west  of  the 
Mississippi,  it  may  be  that  the  eastern  terminus 
of  this  line  may  furnish  the  point  at  which  the 
steamboat  and  the  steam-car  may  hereafter  meet 
and  exchange  cargoes  in  their  magic  flight  across 
this  continent.  These  profile  views,  following 
the  travelling  routes,  of  course  follow  the  lowest 
and  levellest  lines,  and  pass  the  mountain  at  the 
point  of  its  greatest  depression;  but  to  complete 
the  view,  and  to  show  the  highest  points  as  well 
as  the  lowest  levels,  many  lofty  peaks  are 
sketched  at  their  proper  elevations,  towering 
many  thousands  of  feet  above  the  travelling  line. 
It  may  here  be  excusable  to  suggest  that  these 
profile  maps  here  exhibited  are,  perhaps,  the  most 
extended  work  of  the  kind  ever  constructed,  be- 
ing from  St.  Louis  (according  to  the  route  we 
travelled)  near  sixteen  hundred  miles  to  the 
South  Pass  ;  from  the  mouth  of  the  Great  Platte 
to  the  same  Pass,  about  one  thousand  more  ;  and 
then  another  sixteen  hundred  from  that  Pass  to 
the  tide-water  of  the  Oregon  ;  in  all,  about  four 
thousand  miles  of  profile  mapping,  founded  upon 
nearly  four  hundred  barometrical  positions,  with 
views  sketched  and  facts  noted  in  the  field  as 
we  went." 


CHAPTER  IV. 

THIRD    EXPEDITION ARKANSAS GREAT     BASIN 

HAWKS    PEAK    ON  THE    SIERRA TLAMATH  LAKE. 

ON  the  29th  of  January,  1845,  President  Tyler, 
with  the  advice  and  consent  of  the  Senate  of 
the  United  States,  conferred  upon  Lieut.  Fre- 
mont a  Brevet  commission  of  Captain  in  the 
corps  of  Topographical  Engineers.  He  was 
brevetted  to  a  First  Lieutenancy  and  a  Captain- 
cy, at  the  same  time.  For  this  distinguished 
compliment  he  was  indebted,  in  part,  to  the 
instrumentality  of  the  commanding  General  of 
the  Army. 

In  the  fall  of  that  year  he  started  on  his  Third 
Expedition.  This  was  his  last  under  the  au- 
thority of  the  Government.  It  terminated  in 
operations  and  results  so  remote  from  its  design, 
as  a  mere  exploration,  and  led  to  such  extraordi- 
nary, engrossing,  and  complicated  engagements, 
that  the  publication  of  a  full  report  has  been 
(  208  ) 


ARKANSAS.  209 

necessarily  postponed.  The  two  next  expedi- 
tions were  *it  his  own  cost,  and  unconnected 
altogether  with  the  Government.  It  is  under- 
stood that  he  is  availing  himself  of  every  oppor- 
tunity of  leisure,  to  prepare  for  the  press  a 
thorough  and  complete  Report  of  the  last  three 
expeditions-.  The  materials  are  iri  his  hands,  in 
field  notes,  daily  journals,  and  all  the  elements  of 
astronomical,  meteorological,  and  other  scientific 
observations.  He  carried  on  his  last  exploration 
a  daguerreotype  apparatus,  and  has  a  very  exten- 
sive set  of  plates,  exhibiting,  by  that  infallible 
process,  the  lines  and  features  of  the  wild  scenery 
and  modes  of  life  in  the  interior  regions  of  the 
continent.  Besides  these  he  has  a  collection  of 
pencil  sketches,  of  great  excellence  of  execution, 
and  colored  drawings  made  upon  the  spot,  with 
specimens  of  objects  natural  and  artificial,  gath- 
ered in  his  long  wanderings.  The  publication 
of  this  work  will  complete  his  service,  and  his 
fame,  as  a  scientific  explorer.  Until  that  is  done, 
only  a  brief  and  fragmentary  account  can  be 
given  of  the  last  expeditions. 

He  went  out,  in  the  third  expedition,  by  the 
northern  head  waters  of  the  Arkansas,  then  the 
boundary  line  of  the  country,  to  the  south  side 
of  the  Great  Salt  Lake,  and  thence  directly 
across  the  central  basin,  towards  California,  in  a 
route  of  which  he  was  the  first  explorer.  Upon 
reaching  the  neighborhood  of  the  Sierra  Nevada, 
18* 


210  LIFE   OF   FREMONT. 

he  concluded  that,  in  the  worn  and  weakened 
condition  of  his  men  and  animals^they  would 
not  be  able  to  surmount  the  barrier  at  that  point; 
and,  being  short  of  provisions,  it  was  necessary 
to  get  as  speedily  as  possible  into  the  country 
beyond,  where  supplies  could  be  obtained.  He 
therefore  divided  his  party.  Leaving  all  the 
provisions  with  the  main  body  of  it,  he  directed 
them  to  follow  along  the  eastern  border  of  the 
Sierra,  towards  the  South,  to  a  certain  pass, 
which  he  named ;  while,  with  a  selected  company 
of  fifteen  men,  entirely  unencumbered,  he  would 
attempt  to"  scale  the  mountains,  get  provisions 
on  the  other  side  at  Sutter's,  and  go  to  their 
relief  on  the  appointed  route.  The  plan,  so  far 
as  his  part  was  concerned,  entirely  succeeded/ 
He  got  across  the  mountains,  with  his  light  party, 
in  six  hours,  proceeded  to  Sutter's,  purchased 
fifty  cattle,  and  drove  them  down  the  western 
side  of  the  Sierra  to  meet  the  main  body  of  his 
people.  Unfortunately  they  mistook  the  pass, 
misled  by  a  similarity  of  name ;  wandered  far  on 
to  a  distant  pass,  towards  the  south,  and  at  last 
found  their  way  through.  Fremont  remained 
waiting  and  roaming  for  them,  in  the  wild  and 
mountainous  country  along  the  western  slope  of 
the  Sierra,  having  frequent  hard  fights  with  the 
savage  tribes  that  infested  them,  until  his  cattle 
were  wasted  by  exhaustion,  and  destroyed  by 
injuries  among  the  sharp  rocks.  Finally,  he 


CALIFORNIA.  211 

abandoned  the  search,  and  going  down  to  the 
California  settlements,  learned  that  his  company, 
after  many  sufferings,  had  come  into  the  country 
by  a  different  route  from  that  directed  by  him, 
quite  remote  from  the  point  where  he  had  ex- 
pected to  meet  them.  They  had  been  placed 
under  the  command  of  Joseph  Walker,  an  ex- 
perienced mountaineer  and  excellent  traveller, 
whose  name  is  given  to  one  of  the  principal 
passes  through  the  mountain  ranges.  The  mis- 
take of  the  route  was  no  fault  of  his.  It  seems 
that  there  are  two  rivers  of  the  same  name. 
Fremont  knew  of  one,  Walker  of  the  other;  and 
neither  knew  that  there  was  more  than  one.  Or- 
ders were  sent  to  Walker  to  go,  with  his  party,  to 
San  Jose,  and  there  remain  until  Fremont  should 
join  them.  Wishing  to  avoid  all  occasion  of 
ill-will,  or  suspicion,  on  the  part  of  the  Mexican 
authorities  in  California,  he  went  alone  to  Mon- 
terey, and  made  himself  known  to  Mr.  Larkin, 
the  consul  of  the  United  States  in  that  city,  and, 
accompanied  by  him,  waited  upon  Alvarado,  the 
Alcalde,  Manuel  Castro,  the  Prefecto,  and  Carlos 
Castro,  the  commanding  general,  who  constituted 
the  leading  authorities  of  the  country.  He  com- 
municated his  object  in  coming  into  California, 
stating  that  he  had  not  a  single  soldier  of  the 
United  States  army  in  his  party,  and  that  his 
sole  purpose  was  a  scientific  exploration  of  the 
continent,  with  a  view  of  ascertaining  the  best 


212  LIFE    OF    FREMONT. 

mode  of  establishing  a  commercial  intercourse 
between  the  Atlantic  and  Pacific  regions.  He 
requested  permission  to  winter  in  the  country, 
recruit  his  company,  and  continue  his  explorations. 
His  request  was  granted.  He  then  repaired  to 
his  party  at  San  Jose,  where  they  remained 
several  weeks. 

Shortly  after  this  interview  with  General 
Castro,  orders  were  received  by  that  officer  to 
drive  Captain  Fremont  out  of  the  country,  or 
send  him  prisoner  to  the  city  of  Mexico.  Of 
these  orders  Fremont  had  no  knowledge  until  a 
long  time  afterwards.  The  first  intimation  he 
had  of  any  unfriendly  feeling  towards  him,  was 
in  certain  movements,  at  various  points,  which 
seemed  to  have  a  threatening  aspect,  as  if  aimed 
at  him.  But  the  interview  with  Castro,  and  the 
other  high  officers  at  head  quarters,  was  so 
recent,  and  had  been  so  friendly  and  cordial,  that 
he  could  hardly  believe  that  the  appearances  that 
had  attracted  his  attention  were  meant  against 
him.  At  length,  however,  on  the  3d  of  March, 
when  within  about  twenty-five  miles  of  Monterey, 
he  was  met  by  an  officer,  who  had  a  detachment 
of  eighty  dragoons  in  his  rear  to  enforce  his 
message,  with  a  letter  from  Castro,  ordering  him, 
without  any  explanation,  peremptorily,  out  of 
the  country.  The  communication  was  in  such 
a  tone,  so  ejjiiirely  in  violation  of  the  arrange- 
ment made  at  Monterey,  on  his  visit  to  the 


HAWKS   PEAK.  213 

authorities  of  the  country,  in  that  place ;  and  the 
demonstrations  were,  all  around,  of  such  a 
belligerent  look  and  character,  that  Captain 
Fremont  felt  no  disposition  to  pay  a  hurried 
obedience  to  .the  order.  He  marched,  with  his 
party,  directly  to  a  lofty  hill,  called  Hawks 
Peak.  It  commanded  a  view,  to  a  great  extent, 
all  around  the  country.  In  that  pure  atmosphere, 
distant  objects  were  clearly  seen,  and  brought 
minutely  to  view  by  the  aid  of  spy-glasses.  It 
was  evident  that  preparations  were  actively 
going  on  to  attack  him.  The  enemy  was  seen 
scaling  his  guns,  and  gathering  Californians  and 
Indians  into  his  ranks.  Captain  Fremont  at 
once  proceeded  to  fortify  his  position,  and  erected 
a  staff'  on  its  highest  point,  forty  feet  in  length, 
and  unfurled  from  it  the  flag  of  his  country. 
His  own  spirit  pervaded  his  whole  party.  Al- 
though few  in  number,  and  far  away  from  aid, 
in  the  heart  of  a  foreign  country,  thus  suddenly 
assuming  a  hostile  attitude  towards  them,  they 
were  determined  to  defend  themselves  against 
any  assault,  by  however  great  a  force  it  might 
be  made,  and  were  thoroughly  prepared  to  meet 
the  last  extremity. 

On  the  9th,  Consul  Larkin  succeeded  in  effect- 
ing a  communication  with  Fremont,  informing 
him  of  the  preparations  going  on  to  attack  him. 
The  following  note,  in  pencil,  was  sent  in  reply. 

"  MY  DEAR  SIR:  I  this  moment  received  your 


214  LIFE   OF  FREMONT. 

letters,  and,  without  waiting  to  read  them,  ac- 
knowledge the  receipt,  which  the  courier  requires 
immediately.  I  am  making  myself  as  strong  as 
possible,  in  the  intention  that  if  we  are  unjustly 
attacked,  we  will  fight  to  extremity  and  re- 
fuse quarter,  trusting  to  our  country  to  avenge 
our  death.  No  one  has  reached  our  camp,  and, 
from  the  heights,  we  are  able  to  see  troops  (with 
the  glass)  mustering  at  St.  John's,  and  preparing 
cannon.  I  thank  you  for  your  kindness  and  good 
wishes,  and  would  write  more  at  length  as  to  my 
intentions  did  I  not  fear  that  my  letter  would  be 
intercepted.  We  have,  in  nowise,  done  wrong 
to  the  people  or  the  authorities  of  the  country ; 
and,  if  we  are  hemmed  in  and  assaulted  here, 
we  will  die,  every  man  of  us,  under  the  flag  of 
our  country. 

Very  truly  yours, 

J.  C.  FREMONT. 

P.  S.  I  am  encamped  on  the  top  of  the  Sierra, 
at  the  head  waters  of  a  stream  which  strikes  the 
road  to  Monterey  at  the  house  of  Don  Joaquin 
Gomes. 

Thomas  O.  Larkin,  Esq.,  Consul  for  the  United 
States  at  Monterey." 

The  Delawares  kept  an  unfailing  Avatch  from 
every  peak,  or  lofty  crag ;  and  with  the  instinc- 
tive and  long-practised  vigilance,  clear  sighted- 
ness,  and  quick  discernment  of  their  race,  gave 
notice  of  every  movement  in  all  directions.  One 


HAWKS    PEAK.  215 

morning  at  sunrise  every  thing  indicated  a  near 
impending  assault,  by  overwhelming  numbers. 
Fremont  addressed  his  people,  who  assured  him 
with  one  voice  that  they  were  ready  to  meet 
death  with  him  on  the  spot  rather  than  surren- 
der. The  Delawares  prepared  themselves  at 
once  for  their  last  battle.  They  arrayed  them- 
selves in  their  full  finery,  put  their  red  war  paint 
on  themselves  and  on  their  horses,  and  with  alJ 
their  weapons  in  order,  made  the  circuit  of  the 
camp,  singing  their  war  and  death  songs,  their 
chargers  prancing,  in  apparent  sympathy  with 
their  riders  in  the  solemn  but  exultant  enthusi- 
asm of  the  occasion.  But  the  enemy  shrunk 
from  the  crisis.  On  another  occasion,  they  were 
discovered  approaching,  by  moonlight.  Fremont 
selected  twenty-five  of  his  men,  and  went  out 
to  meet 'them.  They  fled  in  surprise  as  he 
dashed  down  upon  them.  At  another  time,  he 
went  out  during  the  day  with  a  select  band  to 
reconnoitre,  and  ascertain,  more  particularly  the 
intentions  of  the  enemy.  After  several  days,  as 
Castro  ventured  upon  no  attack,  he  concluded 
to  move  from  his  position  at  Hawks  Peak.  His 
people  urged  him  strenuously  to  allow  them  to 
make  a  night  assault  upon  Castro's .  camp,  but 
he  refused  to  gratify  them.  He  was  determined 
to  originate  no  hostile  movement,  but  confine 
himself  wholly  to  the  resistance  of  violence,  and 
to  such  a  course  as  would  show  that  his  only 


216  LIFE   OP   FREMONT. 

object  was  to  have  it  understood  that  he,  was 
not  to  be  driven  out  of  the  country  by  any  such 
summary  and  intimidating  methods  as  Castro 
had  adopted.  He  therefore  moved  down  into 
the  San  Joaquin  Valley,  and  by"  moderate  and 
deliberate  marches  turned  up  through  North 
California  towards  Oregon  and  the  .Columbia 
River. 

*  Colonel  Benton,  in  a  speech  in  the  Senate, 
characterized  the  course  of  Fremont,  in  hoisting 
the  flag  of  his  country  at  Hawks  Peak,  in  well- 
deserved  and  weU-expressed  language  : — 

"  Such  was  the  reason  for  raising  the  flag.  It 
was  raised  at  the  approach  of  danger ;  it  was 
taken  down  when  danger  disappeared.  It  was 
well  and  nobly  done,  and  worthy  of  our  admira- 
tion. Sixty  of  our  countrymen,  three  thousand 
miles  from  home,  in  sight  of  the  Pacific  Ocean, 
appealing  to  the  flag  of  their  country,  unfurling 
it  on  the  mountain-top,  and  determined  to  die 
under  it,  before  they  would  submit  to  unjust 
aggression." 

At  the  close  of  Fremont's  second  expedition, 
Carson,  in  taking  leave  of  him,  promised,  in 
case  a  third  expedition  were  organized,  to  join 
it.  In  the  mean  time  he  had  settled  near  Taos. 
On  reaching  Bent's  Fort,  when  going  out  on 
his  third  expedition,  Fremont  sent  a  message 
reminding  him  of  his  promise,  and  saying  that 
he  would  wait  there  for  him.  Although  Carson 


TLAMATII  LAKE.  217 

had  purchased  a  farm,  intending  thenceforth 
to  lead  a  quiet  life — so  sacred  did  he  regard  his 
promise,  and  so  strong  was  his  affection  for  his 
old  commander — he  instantly  sold  his  house  and 
land,  at  a  very  considerable  sacrifice,  and  joined 
the  expedition  in  four  days  after  receiving  Fre- 
mont's note.  He  put  his  family  under  the  care 
of  Governor  Bent  during  his  absence.  Their 
wives  were  sisters.  When  afterwards  the  In- 
dians fell  upon  Taos,  massacring,  among  others, 
Governor  Bent,  Mrs.  Carson  saved  her  life  by 
flight. 

Carson's  services  were  as  usual  invaluable 
throughout  the  third  expedition,  and  signal  on 
many  occasions.  In  withdrawing  from  Califor- 
nia, Fremont  had  reached  the  northern  end  of 
the  Tlamath  Lake  in  Oregon,  and  was  about 
exploring  a  new  route  into  the  Willhameth 
Valley.  The  Tlamath  Indians  are  brave  and 
warlike.  They  are  rendered  particularly  form- 
idable by  their  iron  arrow-heads  and  axes, 
procured  from  the  British  trading  forts  north 
of  the  Columbia  River.  Their  barbed  arrows 
cannot  be  extracted  but  by  cutting  the  flesh. 

On  the  night  of  the  8th  of  May,  a  couple  of 
horsemen,  who  did  not  have  the  appearance  of 
Indians,  were  seen  approaching  in  that  out  of 
the  way  and  far-off  place.  They  proved  to  be 
two  of  Fremont's  companions,  in  his  previous 
explorations,  sent  on  by  that  dangerous  route  to 

19 


218  LIFE   OF   FREMONT. 

overtake  him,  with  information  that  Mr.  Gilles- 
pie,  with  three  men,  was  behind,  with  despatches 
to  him  from  the  Government,  that  he  had  been 
a  long  time  on  the  route  searching  for  him,  had 
endured  much  suffering,  and  encountered  many 
perils  by  the  way.  Fremont  the  next  morn- 
ing took  nine  men,  and  making  all  haste  to 
reach  Gillespie,  so  as  to  protect  his  small  party 
from  the  Indians,  rode  sixty  miles  that  day, 
meeting  him  at  its  close.  The  story  of  that 
night  was  narrated  by  Carson  some  years  after- 
wards. It  will  be  related  now  in  his  words,  as 
then  used.  When  Carson  told  the  story  to  the 
gentleman  who  noted  it  down  at  the  time,  Fre- 
mont had  become  a  colonel. 

"  Mr.  Gillespie  had  brought  the  Colonel  letters 
from  home, — the  first  he  had  had  since  leaving 
the  States  the  year  before, — and  he  was  up,  and 
kept  a  large  fire  burning  until  after  midnight ; 
the  rest  of  us  were  tired  out,  and  all  went  to 
sleep.  This  was  the  only  night  in  all  our  trav- 
els, except  the  one  night  on  the  Island  in  the 
Salt  Lake,  that  we  failed  to  keep  guard  ;  and  as 
the  men  were  so  tired,  and  we  expected  no  at- 
tack now  that  we  had  fourteen  in  the  party,  the 
Colonel  did  not  like  to  ask  it  of  them,  but  sat 
up  late  himself.  Owens  and  I  were  sleeping 
together,  and  we  were  waked  at  the  same  time 
by  the  licks  m  of  the  axe  that  killed  our  men. 
At  first,  I  did  not  know  it  was  that ;  but  I  called 


NIGHT   ASSAULT    BY    INDIANS.  219 

to  Basil,  who  was  that  side :  '  What's  the  mat- 
ter there  ?  What 's  the  fuss  about  ?  '  He  never 
answered,  for  he  was  dead  then,  poor  fellow, — 
and  he  never  knew  what  killed  him.  His  head 
had  been  cut  in,  in  his  sleep ;  the  other  groaned 
a  little  as  he  died.  The  Delawares  (we  had 
four  with  us)  were  sleeping  at  that  fire,  and  they 
sprang  up  as  the  Tlamaths  charged  them.  One 
of  them  (named  Crane)  caught  up  a  gun,  which 
wa  s  unloaded ;  but,  although  he  could  do  no 
execution,  he  kept  them  at  bay,  fighting  like  a 
soldier,  and  did  not  give  up  until  he  was  shot 
full  of  arrows,  three  entering  his  heart ;  he  died 
bravely.  As  soon  as  I  had  called  out,  I  saw  it 
was  Indians  in  the  camp,  and  I  and  Owens 
together  cried  out  '  Indians.'  There  were  no 
orders  given ;  things  went  on  too  fast,  and  the 
Colonel  had  men  with  him  that  did  not  need  to 
be  told  their  duty.  The  Colonel  and  I,  Max- 
well, Owens,  Godey,  and  Stepp  jumped  to- 
gether, we  six,  and  ran  to  the  assistance  of  our 
Delawares.  I  don't  know  who  fired  and  who 
didn't;  but  I  think  it  was  Stepp's  shot  that 
killed  the  Tlamath  chief ;  for  it  was  at  the  crack 
of  Stepp's  gun  that  he  fell.  He  had  an  English 
half-axe  slung  to  his  wrist  by  a  cord,  and  there 
were  forty  arrows  left  in  his  quiver,  the  most 
beautiful  and  warlike  arrows  I  ever  saw.  He 
must  have  been  the  bravest  man  among  them, 
from  the  way  he  was  armed,  and  judging  by  his 


220  LIFE   OF  FREMONT. 

cap.  When  the  Tlamaths  saw  him  fall,  they 
ran  ;  but  we  lay,  every  man  with  his  rifle  cocked, 
until  daylight,  expecting  another  attack. 

"  In  the  morning  we  found  by  the  tracks  that 
from  fifteen  to  twenty  of  the  Tlamaths  had 
attacked  us.  They  had  killed  three  of  our  men, 
(besides  Basil  and  the  Delaware,  a  half-breed 
Iroquois,  named  Dennie,)  and  wounded  one  of 
the  Delawares,  who  scalped  the  chief  whom  we 
left  where  he  fell.  Our  dead  men  we  carried  on 
mules ;  but  after  going  about  ten  miles,  we 
found  it  impossible  to  get  them  any  further 
through  the  thick  timber,  and  finding  a  secret 
place,  we  buried  them  under  logs  and  chunks, 
having  no  way  to  dig  a  grave.  It  was  only  a 
few  days  before  this  fight  that  some  of  these 
same  Indians  had  come  into  our  camp ;  and, 
although  we  had  only  meat  for  two  days,  and 
felt  sure  that  we  should  have  to  eat  mules  for 
ten  or  fifteen  days  to  come,  the  Colonel  divided 
with  them,  and  even  had  a  mule  unpacked  to 
give  them  some  tobacco  and  knives." 

As  Carson  states,  in  the  foregoing  narrative, 
the  Colonel  remained  awake,  and  up,  after  all 
others  in  the  encampment  had  gone  to  sleep. 
The  letters,  which  brought  him  the  first  intelli- 
gence of  his  family  and  home,  called  back 
reminiscences  and  started  associations  that 
coursed  through  his  mind,  kindling  its  deepest 
sensibilities.  As  he  gazed  upon  the  dying 


NIGHT  ASSAULT   BY   INDIANS.  221 

embers  of  the  camp  fires,  his  thoughts  wandered 
in  a  reverie  of  fancy  and  emotion.  Although 
the  moon  was  shining  brightly  above  the  forest, 
beneath  its  branches  all  was  dark,  and  its  recesses 
impenetrable  to  the  vision.  Solemn  silence 
reigned  over  the  scene  and  the  hour.  His 
wearied  and  faithful  people  were  in  profound 
repose,  and  he  watched  that  they  might  rest. 
It  was  midnight.  Suddenly  the  horses  started 
as  if  some  danger  assailed  them.  As  such 
alarms  often  spring  from  trivial  causes,  Fremont 
did  not  arouse  his  men,  but  taking  a  six-barrel 
pistol  in  his  hand,  went  noiselessly  around  to 
the  various  points  where  the  animals  were 
picketed,  listened  from  time  to  time,  and  exam- 
ined all  parts  of  the  encampment.  All  was 
still,  and  no  danger  seemed  near.  The  horses, 
reassured  by  his  presence,  became  quiet,  and 
returned  to  their  rest.  Having  thus  reconnoitred 
the  ground,  in  cautious  exploration,  he  con- 
cluded that  all  was  safe.  Indeed,  he  had  dis- 
missed the  idea  of  the  possibility  of  danger  from 
Indians  at  that  time.  Since  the  morning  he  had 
ridden  sixty  miles,  too-  rapidly  to  be  followed, 
and  seen  none  by  the  way.  The  two  advanced 
couriers,  and  after  them,  Gillespie  with  only  his 
three  remaining  men,  had  just  passed  unharmed 
over  the  country,  from  the  opposite  direction, 
and  it  seemed  quite  certain  that  there  could  be 
no  enemy  in  the  neighborhood.  Convinced  by 
19* 


222  LITE   OF   FREMONT. 

these  considerations,  he  yielded  to  silence  and 
fatigue,  and  had  fallen  into  unconsciousness 
himself,  when,  the  moon  having  sunk  below 
the  trees,  the  attack  began. 

It  is  not  unlikely  that,  during  all  the  previous 
hours  of  that  night,  savage  eyes  were  upon  him, 
as  he  mused  and  watched  before  the  fire.  It  is 
always  a  main  point  with  Indians,  in  attacking 
a  party,  to  kill  the  commander.  The  Tlamaths 
were  undoubtedly  lurking  around  the  camp, 
when  the  horses  started ;  and  as  Fremont  went 
to  find  the  cause  of  the  alarm,  they  may  have 
lost  sight  of  him,  and  his  life  have  thus  been 
saved. 

To  show  the  profound  duplicity  and  treachery 
of  those  Indians,  the  following  statement  made 
by  Mr.  Gillespie  under  oath  before  the  com- 
mittee on  military  affairs  of  the  Senate  of  the 
United  States,  is  presented. 

"  I  started  upon  Captain  Fremont's  trail  upon 
the  2d  of  May,  much  against  the  earnest  appeals 
and  advice  of  the  settlers,  who  informed  me 
that  the  Indians,  through  whose  country  I  would 
have  to  pass,  were  very  hostile,  and  would,  in 
all  probability,  defeat  so  small  a  party.  How- 
ever, considering  their  fears  somewhat  exagger- 
ated, I  determined  to  overtake  Captain  Fremont 
at  all  hazards.  Upon  the  7th  of  May,  finding 
the  signs  of  the  camp  very  fresh,  I  ordered  two 
of  the  men,  Neal  and  Sigler,  to  proceed  ahead 


NIGHT   ASSAULT   BY  INDIANS.  223 

upon  the  best  and  fleetest  horses,  to  overtake 
and  inform  Captain  Fremont  of  my  approach. 
I  arrived  at  the  Tlamath  Lake  at  sunset  of  the 
same  day.  Our  provisions  were  exhausted,  and 
game  could  not  be  found.  Not  being  able  to  ford 
the  river,  the  outlet  of  the  lake,  I  determined  to 
encamp  upon  its  banks,  hoping  to  hear  the  next 
morning  from  my  men,  or  receive  a  message 
from  Captain  Fremont,  whom  I  supposed  at  no 
great  distance  from  me.  We  remained  here 
until  the  morning  of  the  9th,  full  forty  hours, 
without  any  thing  to  eat,  when,  at  about  8 
o'clock,  a  party  of  Indians  came  to  us,  a  chief 
bringing  me  a  fresh  salmon  just  from  the  lake. 
They  also  brought  two  canoes,  and  took  us 
across  the  lake,  and  showed  us  every  disposition 
to  be  friendly.  Riding  about  30  miles  over  the 
mountains,  I  came  to  a  party,  about  sunset, 
which  proved  to  be  Captain  Fremont,  with 
nine  of  his  men,  who  had  rode  sixty  miles  that 
day  to  meet  me." 

When  Gillespie's  men  examined  the  body 
and  countenance  of  the  Indian,  left  dead  in  the 
camp,  it  was  found  to  be  the  identical  chief, 
who,  the  morning  before,  had  brought  the  fresh 
salmon  to  them,  and  professed  such  exceeding 
friendliness  of  disposition  towards  them  !  There 
can  be  no  doubt  that  immediately  after  setting 
them  across  the  river,  and  making  such  an  ac- 
ceptable present  to  them,  he  collected  his  mur- 


224  LIFE    OF   FREMONT. 

derous  party,  and  dogged  them,  unseen,  the 
whole  day,  indulging  the  confident  purpose  of 
cutting  them  off  at  night,  which  he  would  have 
done  had  not  Fremont  made  his  extraordinary 
effort  to  meet  them.  Gillespie,  in  his  testi- 
mony, says  :  "  The  Indians  had  followed  on  my 
trail,  and  but  for  the  promptness  of  Captain 
Fremont,  my  small  party  would  have  been 
overpowered  by  superior  numbers,  and  killed." 

This  is  a  specimen  of  that  instantaneous 
decision  of  purpose,  which  has  marked  the 
course  of  Fremont,  and  from  which  such  con- 
sequences have  often  flowed,  as  seem  to  look 
like  an  overruling  Providence,  determining  his 
judgment,  in  the  apparent  absence  of  ordinary 
considerations  and  inducements.  Upon  the 
arrival  of  Gillespie's  advanced  couriers,  he  in- 
stantly, and  without  a  moment's  delay,  prepared 
his  select  troop,  and  rode  60  miles,  feeling  that 
it  was  necessary  to  reach  him  before  another 
night.  If  he  had  not  done  this,  he  never  would 
have  received  the  communication  that  carried 
him  back  to  California,  and  the  sequel  will 
show  how  disastrously  the  current  of  the  world's 
affairs  would,  in  that  event,  have  been  turned 
from  its  course. 

The  circumstance  of   that  midnight  tragedy 
in  the  far-off  wilderhess  that  most  touches  the. 
feeling  heart,  is  the  death  of  Basil.     His  noble 
nature  has  been  indicated  in  some  passages  of 


BASIL  LAJEUNESSE.  225 

this  memoir.  He  was  in  the  bloom  of  life.  He 
was  generous,  disinterested,  and  as  beautiful  as 
brave.  His  manly  energy  and  powers  of  endur- 
ance were  unsurpassed.  His  person  and  char- 
acter bore  the  impress  of  Nature's  choicest 
stamp.  The  sudden  extinction  of  such  a  life  is 
an  affecting  and  impressive  event.  Deeply  did 
his  commander  and  companions  mourn  his 
death.  When,  in  distant  centuries,  a  civilized 
population  shall  surround  the  Tlamath  Lake,  the 
story  of  Basil  Lajeunesse  will  give  a  romantic 
interest  to  the  shore  where  his  ashes  rest. 


CHAPTER  V. 

NORTH     CALIFORNIA BEAR     WAR CONQUEST      OF 

CALIFORNIA WAH-LAH-WAH-LAH  INDIANS IN- 
SURRECTION  CALIFORNIA  BATTALION INSUR- 
GENTS SURRENDER  TO  FREMONT CAPITULATION 

OF    COWENGA. 

MR.  GILLESPIE  delivered  to  Captain  Fremont 
a  brief  letter  of  introduction  from  Mr.  Buchanan, 
Secretary  of  State.  It  was  not  deemed  safe  to 
commit  to  writing  the  communication  "he  had 
been  sent  to  make,  and  for  which  he  had  sought 
Fremont  at  such  hazard,  and  at  so  remote  a 
point.  It  was  entrusted  to  his  memory,  to  be 
conveyed  by  word  of  mouth,  and  was  in  sub- 
stance to  this  effect :  That  a  rupture  between  the 
United  States  and  Mexico  being  not  improb- 
able, it  was  the  wish  of  the  Government  that 
Fremont  should  keep  himself  in  a  favorable  po- 
sition to  watch  the  state  of  things  in  California, 
conciliate  the  feelings  of  its  people,  encourage  a 
friendship  with  the  United  States,  and  do  what 
he  could  to  prevent  that  country  falling  into  the 
(  226  ) 


KIT   CARSON.  227 

hands  of  Great  Britain.  In  obedience  to  this 
suggestion,  he  began  to  retrace  his  steps  into 
California. 

On  the  second  day  after  the  murder  of  Basil 
and  the  two  Indians,  by  the  Tlamaths,  Carson, 
who  was  ahead  with  ten  men,  came  upon  their 
village,  containing  more  than  a  hundred  warriors. 
Fremont  had  given  orders  to  send  back  and  let 
him  come  up,  in  case  they  met  Indians.  But  it 
was  too  late  to  delay  a  moment,  when  the  enemy 
was  first  seen,  and  Carson,  with  his  small  de- 
tachment, rushed  at  once  upon  the  village,  and, 
after  a  sharp  conflict,  put  the  whole  to  flight. 
Several  of  the  Tlamaths  were  killed,  and  their 
village  destroyed.  During  the  same  day  there 
was  another  encounter  with  the  Indians,  in  which 
Carson  came  very  near  losing  his  life.  An  In- 
dian was  seen  fixing  his  arrow  to  let  fly  at  him. 
He  instantly  levelled  his  rifle,  but  it  snapped, 
when  Fremont,  seeing  his  danger,  flew  to  his 
rescue,  dashed  his  horse  upon  the  Indian  and 
knocked  him  over.  "  I  owe  my  life,"  as  Car- 
son expresses  himself,  when  relating  the  incident, 
"  I  owe  my  life  to  them  two — the  Colonel  and 
Sacramento  saved  me."  Sacramento  was  a 
favorite  iron-gray  horse  of  Colonel  Fremont. 
He  was  presented  to  him  by  Captain  Sutter  in 
1844,  and  earned  his  name  by  swimming  that 
river  at  the  close  of  a  long  day's  journey.  After 
bearing  his  master  several  times  across  the  con- 


228  LIFE   OF  FKEMONT. 

tinent,  he  has  been  honorably  discharged.  His 
service  performed  and  his  warfare  ended,  he 
is  now  roaming  in  freedom  his  native  valley. 
He  has  rejoined  the  wild  horses  of  the  California 
plains,  and  suffers  no  Indian  or  hunter  to  ap- 
proach him.  His  master  has  never  attempted  to 
reclaim  him,  and  all  efforts  on  .the  part  of  others 
to  capture  him  have  proved  fruitless. 

When  Captain  Fremont  came  into  North  Cal- 
ifornia, he  found  the  whole  country  in  a  state  of 
great  alarm.  The  entire  population  of  Califor- 
nia at  that  period,  exclusive  of  Indians,  was 
estimated  at  about  ten  thousand,  one  fifth  of 
whom  were  foreigners,  chiefly  from  the  United 
States.  General  Castro  was  the  military  com- 
mander, and  was  actively  exerting  his  influence 
to  aggravate  the  jealousy  of  the  native  Calif or- 
nians  towards  foreign  residents.  He  had  issued 
a  proclamation  aimed  at  Americans  particularly, 
and  requiring  them  to  leave  the  country.  It  be- 
came evident  that  measures  had  been  for  some 
time  secretly  concerting  among  many  of  the 
leading  Spanish  Californians,  to  transfer  the 
country  to  the  protection  and  control  of  Great 
Britain,  and  to  drive  out  or  exterminate  all  Amer- 
ican settlers ;  (that  is,  as  the  word  is  universally 
understood,  all  settlers  from  the  United  States ;) 
to  expel  them  utterly,  with  their  families ;  and  to 
take  possession  of  their  lands.  In  order  to  ac- 
complish this  more  effectually,  the  Indian  tribes 


JSKAll    WAR.  229 

were  made  to  participate  in  the  conspiracy,  and 
instigated  to  burn  and  destroy  the  crops  and 
houses  of  Americans.  This  condition  of  things, 
of  course,  spread  the  utmost  alarm  among  the 
intended  victims  of  the  plot.  When  Captain 
Fremont  came  down  into  the  Sacramento  Val- 
ley, men,  women,  and  children  flocked  to  him 
for  protection,  and  appealed  to  him  as  a  country- 
man. His  means  of  information  were  very  ex- 
tensive and  reliable.  There  were  many  American 
settlers,  who  had  been  several  years  in  the  coun- 
try, intermarrying  in  some  cases  with  California 
families,  men  of  education  and  large  property, 
like  Dr.  Marsh,  and  all  of  them  more  or  less  able 
to  discover  what  was  going  on,  not  merely  among 
the  people,  but  in  the  consultations  of  the  au- 
thorities. With  them  Captain  Fremont  kept  up 
constant  communication. 

From  these  sources  of  information  he  obtained 
intimations  of  a  scheme,  the  authentic  and  offi- 
cial records  of  which  he  afterwards  found  in  the 
archives  of  California,  while  occupying  the  gov- 
ernment house  in  Los  Angeles. 

A  Catholic  priest,  named  Eugenic  Macna- 
mara,  in  the  year  1845  and  the  early  part  of 
1846,  was  domesticated  with  the  British  legation 
at  the  city  of  Mexico.  During  that  time  he 
made  application  for  a  grant  of  land  for  the  pur- 
pose of  establishing  a  colony  in  California.  He 
asked  for  a  square  league,  containing  4,428  acres, 

20 


230  LIFE    OF   FREMONT. 

to  be  given  to  each  family,  and  that  each  child 
of  a  colonist  should  have  half  a  square  league. 
The  territory  to  be  conveyed  to  him  should  be 
around  San  Francisco  Bay,  embrace  three  thou- 
sand square  leagues,  and  include  the  entire  val- 
ley of  the  San  Joaquin.  He  agreed  to  bring  a 
thousand  families  at  the  beginning.  His  object 
is  stated  in  his  memorial  to  the  Mexican  Presi- 
dent, in  these  words : — 

"  I  propose,  with  the  aid  and  approbation  of 
your  excellency,  to  place  in  Upper  California  a 
colony  of  Irish  Catholics.  I  have  a  triple  object 
in  making  this  proposition.  I  wish,  in  the  first 
place,  to  advance  the  cause  of  Catholicism.  In 
the  second,  to  contribute  to  the  happiness  of  my 
countrymen.  Thirdly,  I  desire  to  put  an  obstacle 
in  the  way  of  further  usurpations  on  the  part  of 
an  irreligious  and  anti- Catholic  nation" 

His  proposal  was  favorably  entertained  by  the 
central  government.  It  was  referred,  for  a  final 
decision,  to  the  landholders  and  local  authorities 
of  California.  Conventions  were  about  being 
held  to  perfect  the  arrangement.  Macnamara 
was  landed,  from  the  British  frigate  Juno,  one  of 
Sir  George  Seymour's  fleet,  at  Santa  Barbara, 
just  at  this  time.  Every  thing  was  ripe  for  a 
final  settlement  of  the  whole  matter;  and  by 
virtue  of  this  grant  of  land  to  Macnamara,  the 
whole  country  would  have  passed  under  British 
protection. 


BEAR    WAR.  231 

Some  intimations  of  this  deeply  devised 
scheme  had  reached  the  public  ear,  and  tended 
to  increase  the  excitement,  alarm,  and  agitation 
of  the  American  settlers. 

The  point  was  reached  at  which  it  became 
necessary  for  Fremont  to  decide.  The  Indians 
had  begun  to  burn  the  crops  of  the  American 
settlers,  and  were  assembled  in  a  large  force  of 
about  six  hundred  warriors,  at  or  near  what  is 
known  as  Redding's  Rancho,  about  thirty-five  or 
forty  miles  from  his  encampment.  He  must 
either  quit  the  country,  and  leave  the  American 
settlers,  with  their  wives  and  children,  to  utter 
ruin  and  a  fearful  fate,  or  he  must  step  forward 
as  their  defender.  He  must  either  let  that  vast 
region  pass  into  the  hands  of  a  foreign  power, 
or  take  instant  possession  of  it  by  his  own 
sword.  It  was  a  fearful  but  a  great  crisis  in  his 
life.  To  head  a  rebellion  in  a  country  with 
which  his  own,  so  far  as  he  then  knew,  was  at 
peace,  was  assuming  a  most  serious  responsi- 
bility. But  the  question  was  then  and  there  to 
be  decided.  He  decided  it  in  favor  of  those  who 
sought  his  protection,  and  took  the  responsibility 
of  his  position  at  once.  He  called  his  men  to- 
gether, laid  before  them  the  state  of  the  case,  and 
referred  to  the  destruction  impending  over  those 
residents  of  California  who  were  their  country- 
men. He  told  them  that  he  had  no  right,  as  a 
United  States  officer,  to  resist  the  authorities,  or 


232  LIFE    OP   FREMONT. 

make  war  upon  the  subjects,  of  a  government 
with  which  his  country  was  at  peace.  He  would 
however  release  them,  for  the  time  being,  from 
the  conditions  of  their  service  under  him  as  a 
United  States  officer,  and  relinquish  his  com- 
mand. If  they  wished  to  volunteer  in  defence 
of  the  American  settlers  and  their  families,  they 
were  at  liberty  to  do  so.  He  concluded  by  an- 
nouncing that  he  should  himself  do  it  forthwith. 
They  unanimously  declared  their  readiness  to 
join  him,  and  appointed  him  their  commander. 
He  instantly  marched  against  the  Indians,  leav- 
ing about  half  a  dozen  men  to  defend  the  camp. 
He  broke  up  and  dispersed  five  villages  in  one 
day,  in  such  rapid  succession  that  notice  of  his 
approach  could  not  be  sent  forward;  reached 
their  assembled  force  before  sundown ;  found 
them  engaged  in  their  war  dance,  in  black  paint 
and  white  feathers,  preparatory  to  their  med- 
itated blow  upon  the  settlers  ;  attacked  them  on 
sight ;  and,  at  the  first  charge,  routed  and  scat- 
tered them,  driving  them  into  the  river  and  the 
woods.  At  a  single  stroke,  in  one  "day,  he  thus 
utterly  annihilated  the  Indian  combination,  and 
rescued  the  settlers  from  threatening  ruin,  with- 
out the  loss  of  a  man. 

He  then  returned  to  camp,  and  removed  his 
force  to  a  place  called  the  Buttes,  about  sixty  miles 
above  Sutter's  Settlement.  From  that  point  lie' 
put  himself  into  communication  with  all  friendly 


BEAR    WAR.  233 

to  the  movement.  Not  long  after  he  received 
information  that  Castro  had  assembled  about 
400  men  at  Santa  Clara,  and  that  he  had  sent 
an  officer,  with  a  detachment,  to  Sonoma,  to 
procure  horses  to  complete  the  equipment  of  his 
force.  Fremont  instantly  started  a  small  body 
of  men,  who  volunteered  for  the  service,  and 
chose  Ezekiel  Merritt  for  their  leader,  to  inter- 
cept Castro's  detachment  on  its  return.  The 
service  was  gallantly  executed,  and  with  entire 
success.  The  whole  body,  horses  and  all,  was 
captured.  The  prisoners  were  released,  but  the 
horses  brought  in. 

By  rapid  and  vigorous  movements  Castro's 
forces  were  all  driven  from  the  country  north  of 
the  bay  of  San  Francisco.  At  Sonoma,  General 
Vallejo,  two  colonels,  and  other  prisoners  were 
taken.  A  squadron  of  eighty  men,  under  Cap- 
tain De  la  Torre,  remained  for  a  short  time  on  a 
peninsula,  at  Saucelito,  on  the  northern  side  of 
the  bay,  directly  opposite  Castro's  encampment 
on  the  east  side  ;  but  he  was  pressed  so  hard,  that 
he  abandoned  his  horses,  and  escaped  in  launches 
across  the  bay  to  Castro.  Fremont  found  there 
a  bark  from  the  Eastern  states,  commanded 
by  a  patriotic  American,  named  David  Phelps, 
who,  entering  heartily  into  the  business,  lent  him 
his  launch,  into  which  he  jumped,  with  twelve 
men,  and  rowed  over  to  San  Francisco,  about 
eight  miles,  where  there  was  a  fort  with  a  bat- 
20* 


234  LIFE    OF   FREMONT. 

tery  of  guns,  mostly  brass  field-pieces,  which 
they  spiked,  employing  for  the  purpose  steel 
files,  used  for  sharpening  knives,  which  Captain 
Phelps  happened  to  have  on  board  his  bark. 

Having  thus  established  the  independence  of 
North  California,  Fremont  sent  a  message  to 
Castro,  that  as  he  could  not  get  his  horses  over 
the  bay,  if  he  would  wait  for  him,  he  would 
pass  around  its  head  as  quickly  as  possible,  and 
meet  him  where  he  was  at  Santa  Clara,  and 
end  the  contest  for  the  country  at  once. 

On  his  way  round,  finding  himself  at  Sonoma 
on  the  4th  of  July,  the  day  was  duly  celebrated. 
On  the  next  day,  a  great  concourse  of  people, 
American  settlers,  and  others  sympathizing  in 
the  cause,  having  come  to  meet  and  welcome 
him,  he  declared  the  country  Independent,  and 
the  flag  of  the  free  state  of  California,  a  grizzly 
bear  on  a  white  field,  was  unfurled. 

By  the  celerity  of  these  bold  movements,  the 
Indian  enemy  was  annihilated,  the  settlers  saved 
from  massacre,  and  their  fields  from  desolation ; 
the  power  of  Mexico  over  North  California  was 
broken  down  forever ;  and,  as  we  shall  soon  see, 
the  whole  of  that  golden  empire  secured  to  the 
United  States. 

On  the  10th  of  July,  Fremont  reached,  on  his 
way  to  Santa  Clara,  in  the  fulfilment  of  his 
promise  to  Castro,  the  nearest  point  at  which 
cavalry  could  get  around  the  head  of  the  bay, 


BEAR    WAR.  235 

at  Suiter's  Fort.  About  sunset  an  express 
reached  him  from  Commodore  Sloat,  announc- 
ing his  capture  of  Monterey.  The  next  morning, 
at  sunrise,  he  hoisted  the  flag  of  the  American 
Union  at  the  fort,  under  a  national  salute,  and 
with  great  rejoicings.  Thus  ended  what  was 
called  the  "  Bear  war." 

He  then  moved  down  with  great  celerity 
along  the  south  side  of  the  bay.  His  troop 
consisted  of  160  mounted  riflemen.  Castro  fled 
before  him,  and  on  the  19th  of  July  he  reached 
Monterey.  Of  his  entrance  into  that  city  a  very 
graphic  account  is  given  by  Lieutenant  the  Hon. 
Frederick  Walpole,  of  the  Royal  Navy,  in  a 
work  published  in  London,  with  the  following 
title  :  "  Four  years  in  the  Pacific,  in  her  Majes- 
ty's ship  «  Collingwood,'  from  1844  to  1848." 

"  During  our  stay  in  Monterey,"  says  Lieu- 
•  tenant  Walpole,  "  Captain  Fremont  and  his  party 
arrived.  They  naturally  excited  curiosity.  Here 
were  true  trappers,  the  class  that  produced  the 
heroes  of  Fenimore  Cooper's  best  works.  These 
men  had  passed  years  in  the  wilds,  living  upon 
their  own  resources ;  they  were  a  curious  set. 
A  vast  cloud  of  dust  appeared  first,  and  thence 
in  long  file  emerged  this  wildest  wild  party. 
Fremont  rode  ahead,  a  spare,  active-looking 
man,  with  such  an  eye !  He  was  dressed  in  a 
blouse  and  leggings,  and  wore  a  felt  hat.  After 
him  came  five  Delaware  Indians,  who  were  his 


236  LIFE    OF   FREMONT. 

body-guard,  and  have  been  with  him  through  ah1 
his  wanderings ;  they  had  charge  of  two  bag- 
gage horses.  The  rest,  many  of  them  blacker 
than  the  Indians,  rode  two  and  two,  the  rifle 
held  by  one  hand  across  the  pommel  of  the 
saddle.  Thirty-nine  of  them  are  his  regular 
men,  the  rest  are  loafers  picked  up  lately;  his 
original  men  are  principally  backwoodsmen,  from 
the  State  of  Tennessee  and  the  banks  of  the 
upper  waters  of  the  Missouri.  He  has  one  or 
two  with  him  who  enjoy  a  high  reputation  in 
the  prairies.  Kit  Carson  is  as  well  known  there 
as  the  duke  is  in  Europe.  The  dress  of  these 
men  was  principally  a  long  loose  coat  of  deer 
skin,  tied  with  thongs  in  front ;  trowsers  of  the 
same,  of  their  own  manufacture,  which,  when 
wet  through,  they  take  off,  scrape  well  inside 
with  a  knife,  and  put  on  as  soon  as  dry;  the 
saddles  were  of  various  fashions,  though  these 
and  a  large  drove  of  horses,  and  a  brass  field- 
gun,  were  things  they  had  picked  up  about 
California.  They  are  allowed  no  liquor,  tea  and 
sugar  only ;  this,  no  doubt,  has  much  to  do 
with  their  good  conduct ;  and  the  discipline,  too, 
is  very  strict.  They  were  marched  up  to  an 
open  space  on  the  hills  near  the  town,  under 
some  large  firs,  and  there  took  up  their  quarters, 
in  messes  of  six  or  seven,  in  the  open  air. 
The  Indians  lay  beside  their  leader.  One  man, 
a  doctor,  six  feet  six  high,  was  an  odd-looking 
fellow.  May  I  never  come  under  his  hands  ! 


FREMONT'S  TROOP.  237 

"  In  justice  to  the  Americans  I  must  say,  they 
seemed  to  treat  the  natives  well,  and  their  au- 
thority extended  every  protection  to  them. 

"  The  butts  of  the  trappers'  rifles  resemble  a 
Turkish  musket,  therefore  fit  light  to  the  shoul- 
der ;  they  are  very  long  and  very  heavy,  carry 
ball  about  thirty-eight  to  the  pound.  A  stick  a 
little  longer  than  the  barrel  is  carried  in  the  bore, 
in  which  it  fits  tightly ;  this  keeps  the  bullet 
from  moving,  and  in  firing,  which  they  do  in  a 
crouching  position,  they  use  it  as  a  rest." 

A  lieutenant  in  the  American  Navy,  (now  a 
commander,)  George  Minor,  under  examination 
by  the  military  committee  of  the  United  States 
Senate,  described  the  impression  made  upon 
him,  by  Fremont's  entrance  into  Monterey,  in 
these  words,  taken  from  his  deposition : — 

"  The  undersigned  was  on  duty  on  shore  when 
Captain  Fremont  arrived  with  his  force  at  Mon- 
terey, from  the  North.  The  undersigned  believes 
that  the  appearance  of  this  body  of  men,  and  the 
well-known  character  of  its  commander,  not  only 
made  a  strong  impression  upon  the  British  Ad- 
miral and  officers,  but  an  equally  impressive  and 
more  happy  one  upon  those  of  the  American 
Navy  then  in  Monterey.  For  himself,  the  un- 
dersigned can  say,  that  after  he  had  seen  Captain 
Fremont's  command,  all  his  doubts  about  the 
conquest  of  California  were  removed." 

The  vital  importance  to  this  country  of  Cap- 


238  LIFE   OF   FREMONT. 

tain  Fremont's  bold  measures  in  North  Cali- 
fornia is  demonstrated  by  a  few  dates  and  facts, 
and  some  obvious  reflections  upon  them. 

Commodore  Sloat  with  an  American,  and 
Admiral  Sir  Qeorge  Seymour  with  a  British, 
squadron,  had,  for  several  weeks,  been  at  anchor 
in  Mazatlan,  a  Mexican  port  on  the  Pacific, 
waiting  to  catch  the  first  intelligence  of  the 
breaking  out  of  hostilities  between  that  Republic 
and  the  United  States.  Commodore  Sloat  got 
the  first  intelligence,  and  started  for  California. 
Sir  George  Seymour  followed.  The  Commo- 
dore arrived  first,  entering  the  harbor  of  Mon- 
terey, on  the  2d  of  July,  1S46.  He  did  not  then 
take  possession  of  the  place.  He  probably  had 
no  thought  of  doing  it,  as  appears  by  his  last 
letter  to  the  Secretary  of  the  Navy,  dated  June'6, 
just  one  month  before,  and  written  at  Mazatlan, 
in  which  he  says :  "  Since  my  No.  50,  of  the 
31st  of  May,  I  have  upon  more  mature  reflection, 
come  to  the  conclusion  that  your  instructions  of 
the  24th  of  June  last,  and  every  subsequent 
order,  will  not  justify  my  taking  possession  of 
any  part  of  California,  or  any  hostile  measure 
against  Mexico,  (notwithstanding  their  attack 
upon  our  troops,)  as  neither  party  has  declared 
war."  On  the  5th  of  July,  the  third  day  after  his 
entering  the  port,  a  launch  arrived  belonging  to 
the  United  States  ship  Portsmouth,  Commander 
Montgomery,  then  lying  in  San  Francisco  Bay, 


CONQUEST   OF   CALIFORNIA.  239 

bringing  information  of  Fremont's  operations 
in  North  California.  Commodore  Sloat  very 
naturally  supposed  that  Fremont  was  acting 
under  instructions,  and  that  supposition  led  to 
the  change  of  purpose  which  he  stated  in  a  letter, 
dated  July  6,  and  sent  by  the  returning  launch 
to  Commander  Montgomery.  In  it  he  says : 
"  Since  I  wrote  you  last  evening,  I  have  deter- 
mined to  hoist  the  flag  of  the  United  States  at 
this  place,  to-morrow,  as  I  would  prefer  being 
sacrificed  for  doing  too  much  than  too  little.  If 
you  consider  you  have  sufficient  force,  or  if 
Fremont  will  join  you,  you  will  hoist  the  flag  of 
the  United  States  at  Yerba  Buena,  or  any  other 
proper  place,  and  take  possession,  in  the  name 
of  the  United  States,  of  the  fort,  and  that  portion 
of  the  country." 

Accordingly,  on  the  next  day,  July  7,  he 
hoisted  the  American  flag  over  Monterey.  Sir 
George  Seymour  arrived  in  the  "  Collingwood," 
of  80  guns,  on  the  15th  or  16th  of  July. 

These  dates  show  that  Commodore  Sloat  took 
possession  of  Monterey,  on  the  7th,  in  conse- 
quence of  the  information  he  received  on  the  5th 
of  Fremont's  operations,  as,  indeed,  he  declared 
at  the  time.  If  the  American  flag  had  not  been 
flying  over  Monterey,  when  Sir  George  Seymour 
arrived,  it  is  impossible  to  estimate  the  mis- 
chievous consequences  that  would  have  ensued. 
Commodore  Sloat  would,  undoubtedly,  have 


240  LIFE    OF   FKKMONT. 

resisted  with  the  bravery  of  a  tried  veteran,  any 
forcible  attempt  of  Sir  George  to  take  the  place, 
but  it  would  have  been  impossible  for  him  to 
have  prevented  a  voluntary  transference  of  the 
country  to  the  protection  of  Great  Britain,  in 
fulfilment  of  the  arrangements  before  entered 
into  by  its  leading  inhabitants  and  authorities. 

That  the  country  was  saved  by  Fremont's 
operations,  from  being  in  that  way  brought 
under  British  dominion,  was  the  judgment,  at  the 
time,  of  ah1  acquainted  with  the  circumstances. 

Captain  Samuel  Hensley,  declared  under 
oath  to  the  military  committee  of  the  Senate, 
to  this  effect. 

"  I  did  understand  from  general  report  that  the 
authorities  of  California  were  about  to  grant 
certain  tracts  of  land  in  California  to  an  Irish 
priest,  for  the  purpose  of  establishing  a  colony 
of  British  subjects,  the  said  priest,  Macnamara, 
having  been  brought  to  California  in  an  English 
vessel  of  war ;  and  my  impression  is  that  the 
timely  movements  on  the  part  of  the  settlers 
in  the  north,  Colonel  Fremont  and  others,  pre- 
vented the  execution  of  the  transfer." 

Similar  testimony  was  given  by  many  others. 
It  seems  that  Macnamara  was  with  Sir  George 
Seymour  at  Monterey.  But  it  was  too  late. 
The  war  between  Mexico  and  the  United  States 
had  undoubtedly  begun.  The  American  flag 
was  floating  over  California.  No  neutral  power 


COMMODORE   STOCKTON.  241 

had  a  right  to  interfere ;  and  the  whole  scheme 
of  Macnamara's  grant,  the  Irish  colony,  and  a 
British  Protectorate,  was  scattered  to  the  winds. 
This,  then,  is  the  sum  of  the  whole  matter. 

The  hoisting  of  our  flag  at  Monterey,  on  the 
7th  of  July,  1846,  saved  California  and  the  Pa- 
cific coast  to  the  United  States,  and  prevented  a 
disastrous  collision  between  this  country  and 
Great  Britain.  That  flag  was  hoisted  in  conse- 
quence of  Fremont's  gallant  achievements  in 
North  California.  He  is  therefore  entitled  to 
the  glory  of  having  saved  California  from  falling 
into  the  hands  of  a  foreign  power,  and  secured 
the  extension  of  our  Union  over  the  whole 
breadth  of  the  continent,  from  shore  to  shore. 

Immediately  after  the  events  just  related, 
Commodore  Sloat  sailed  for  the  United  States, 
leaving  Commodore  Stockton,  who  had  arrived 
a  few  days  before,  in  command.  Fremont,  with 
his  volunteers,  embarked  on  board  the  sloop- 
of-war  Cyane  for  San  Diego.  Landing  there, 
he  marched  to  Los  Angeles,  the  then  capital 
of  California.  Commodore  Stockton,  having" 
landed  his  force  at  San  Pedro,  reached  Los 
Angeles  first,  and,  on  the  17th  of  August,  com- 
pleted and  proclaimed  the  conquest  of  Cali- 
fornia. Castro  fled  to  Sonora. 

Fremont  continued  to  act  under  Commodore 
Stockton,  receiving  various  successive  appoint- 
ments  from    him,   as   major   of  the   California 
21 


242  LIFE   OF  FREMONT. 

battalion,  afterwards  military  commandant  of 
California,  and  finally  governor  and  commander- 
in-chief  in  California.  Early  in  September, 
Captain  Fremont  left  Los  Angeles.  A  few 
weeks  afterwards,  an  extensive  insurrection 
broke  out  in  southern  California.  Fremont, 
who  had  returned  to  the  Sacramento  country, 
immediately  set  about  raising  a  battalion 
among  the  settlers  there  to  aid  in  its  suppres- 
sion. 

At  this  time  an  additional  panic  arose  from 
the  report  of  an  Indian  invasion  from  the 
north.  It  was  said  that  1,000  Wah-lah-wah- 
lahs  were  advancing  to  attack  Sutter's  Fort. 
The  whole  country  was  aroused,  and  every 
element  of  disposable  force  was  drawn  out  to 
meet  the  threatened  danger.  Fremont  had 
already  assembled  a  body  of  several  hundred 
western  riflemen  towards  the  completion  of  his 
California  battalion,  when  the  news  reached 
him.  He  was  quite  confident  that  the  story 
was  exaggerated ;  but  it  was  necessary  to  restore 
security  in  the  northern  frontier.  He  took  three 
tried  men  with  him,  and  went  directly  to  meet 
the  Wah-lah-wah-lahs.  He  found  them  much 
less  numerous  than  had  been  represented,  but 
assembled  in  considerable  force,  and  in  a  state 
of  the  greatest  exasperation.  He  went,  with  his 
three  men,  directly  into  their  midst.  One  of 
them  knew  him,  and  all  gathered  round  him  to 


WAH-LAH-WAH-LAH    INDIANS.  243 

tell  their  wrongs.  They  had  been  robbed,  and 
one  of  their  best  young  men  killed,  by  the 
whites.  He  promised  them  redress  if  they 
would  follow  his  advice.  He  told  them  that 
he  was  going  to  the  south,  and  could  not 
attend  to  them  until  the  spring,  but  that  he 
would  then  meet  them,  at  a  place  agreed  upon, 
and  have  justice  done  them.  He  advised  them, 
in  the  mean  time,  to  go  off  on  a  winter  hunt, 
said  that  he  would  let  one  of  his  own  men  go 
with  them,  to  hold  over  them  the  United  States 
flag,  and  that  whoever  struck  that  flag  struck 
him.  They  were  perfectly  subdued  by  his  talk, 
and  manner  of  treating  them:  at  once  gave  up 
their  plan  of  attacking  the  whites ;  and  agreed 
to  go  off  on  a  winter  hunt.  They  gave  him  ten 
of  their  young  braves  to  go  with  him,  who 
proved  themselves  among  the  best  in  his  bat- 
talion. In  the  spring  of  the  year,  he  met  them, 
although  at  a  great  inconvenience,  and  gave 
them  of  his  own  horses  until  they  were  satis- 
fied. In  this  way  he  not  only  stopped  an 
Indian  war,  and  recruited  his  own  ranks,  but  he 
taught  a  lesson  which  it  would  be  well  to  have 
inculcated  upon  those  who  undertake  to  grapple 
with  our  Indian  difficulties,  and  enforced  upon 
the  administration  of  that  department  of  our 
government. 

On  the  12th  of  October,  Fremont,  with  his 
battalion,  arrived  at  San  Francisco.     He  there 


244  LIFE   OF  FREMONT. 

embarked  his  command,  in  the  ship  Sterling,  to 
go  down  the  coast  to  Santa  Barbara.  He  left 
his  horses,  intending  to  remount  his  men,  in  the 
south.  Two  days  out,  he  fell  in  with  the  "  Van- 
dalia,"  a  merchant  ship,  and  learned  that  no 
horses  could  be  had  below,  the  Californians 
having  driven  their  entire  stock  into  the  interior. 
He  immediately  determined  to  return  to  Mon- 
terey and  make  the  march  over  land.  While  in 
Monterey,  on  the  27th  of  October,  he  learned 
that  he  had  been  appointed  a  lieutenant-colonel 
of  a  rifle  regiment  in  the  army  of  the  United 
States.  His  commission  was  dated  May  29, 
and  signed  by  President  Polk. 

As  this  appointments — by  which  one  who  had 
originally  entered  the  army  in  an  irregular  way, 
taken  from  the  civil  service,  vaulted  over  the 
heads  of  so  many — may  possibly  have  had  some- 
thing to  do  with  certain  unpleasant  occurrences 
afterwards,  the  grounds  on  which  it  was  made 
must  be  borne  in  mind.  They  were  well  stated 
in  one  of  the  public  journals  at  the  time,  which 
expresses  his  eminent  qualifications,  as  fol- 
lows :  "  His  intimate  knowledge  of  the  country, 
in  which  the  regiment  was  designed  to  serve, 
acquired  by  his  indefatigable  explorations  of  the 
whole  extent  of  it ;  his  being  accustomed  to  face 
danger  in  every  form;  his  induration  to  the 
hardships  of  the  wilderness  ;  and  his  knowledge 
of  the  character  of  the  tribes  that  wander  over 
those  desolate  regions." 


INSURRECTION.  245 

Having  despatched  a  courier  to  the  Sacra- 
mento Valley,  to  fill  up  his  troops  and  obtain 
additional  supplies,  he  made  all  the  necessary 
preparations  for  an  arduous  winter  march.  In 
the  mean  time  the  insurrection  had  assumed  a 
formidable  character.  A  party  of  four  hundred 
American  sailors  and  marines,  on  their  way 
from  San  Pedro  to  Los  Angeles,  were  beaten 
back,  with  tire  loss  of  six  men  killed,  by  a 
strong  force  of  Californians.  Los  Angeles  and 
Santa  Barbara  were  in  their  hands.  Larkin, 
the  United  States  consul,  had  been  taken 
prisoner.  Captains  Burroughs  and  Foster  and 
Mr.  Eames,  were  killed  in  a  severe  skirmish 
while  escorting  a  lot  of  horses  to  Fremont's 
camp.  Captain  Burroughs,  on  this  occasion, 
rode  Fremont's  horse,  Sacramento.  When  the 
captain  fell,  he  was  in  front  of  his  men.  The 
sagacious  animal  seemed  to  comprehend  fully 
the  relations  of  the  fight.  Immediately,  upon 
losing  his  rider,  he  dashed  back  to  his  own  party, 
wheeled  into  the  ranks,  and  was  impatient  to 
bear  another  hero  against  the  foe.  On  this 
occasion,  one  of  the  Wah-lah-wah-lah  Indians 
performed  a  remarkable  feat  of  heroism.  He 
volunteered  to  carry  intelligence  to  Col.  Fre- 
mont of  the  attack.  He  was  closely  pursued  by 
the  enemy,  one  of  whom,  having  nearly  over- 
taken him,  drove  his  lance  at  him ;  in  trying  to 
parry  it,  he  received  it  through  his  hand ;  with 

21* 


246  LIFE    OF    FREMONT. 

the  other  hand  he  grasped  his  tomahawk,  and 
in  an  instant  clave  the  skull  of  his  pursuer. 
Two  others  overtook  him  and  shared  the  same 
fate  in  succession.  He  rode  on  until  his  horse 
gave  out,  and  then  reached  Monterey  on  foot. 

Col.  Fremont  immediately  started.  His  force 
consisted  of  four  hundred  mounted  men,  and 
three  pieces  of  artillery  under  the  command  of 
Lieut.  McLane  of  the  navy.  A  large  drove  of 
beef  cattle  •  followed  to  serve  as  provisions  on 
the  march.  At  San  Juan,  on  the  29th  of  No- 
vember, a  party  of  emigrants,  who  had  recently 
crossed  the  country,  ma'de  a  most  valuable  acces- 
sion to  his  force,  comprising  many  men  of  supe- 
rior intelligence  and  standing,  and  contributing 
essentially  to  the  energy  of  the  expedition. 
One  of  them,  Edwin  Bryant,  who,  in  1849, 
published  a  work  on  California,  served  as  a  first 
lieutenant  of  one  of  the  companies,  and  became 
alcalde  of  San  Francisco.  He  gives  the  follow- 
ing account  of  the  regiment : — 

"  There  are  no  plumes  nodding  over  brazen 
helmets,  nor  coats  of*broadcloth  spangled  with 
lace  and  buttons  ;  a  broad-brimmed,  low-crowned 
hat,  a  shirt  of  blue  flannel  or  buckskin,  with  pan- 
taloons and  moccasins  of  the  same,  ah1  generally 
much  the  worse  for  wear,  and  smeared  with  mud 
and  dust,  make  up  the  costume  of  the  party, 
officers  as  well  as  men.  A  leathern  girdle  sur- 
rounds the  waist,  from  which  are  suspended  a 


CALIFORNIA    BATTALION.  247 

bowie  and  a  hunter's  knife,  and  sometimes  a 
brace  of  pistols.  These,  with  the  rifle  and  hol- 
ster pistols,  are  the  arms  carried  by  officers  and 
privates.  A  single  bugle  composes  the  band." 

The  staff-officers  were  Lieutenant- Colonel  J. 
C.  Fremont,  commanding ;  A.  H.  Gillespie,  Ma- 
jor ;  P.  B.  Reading,  Paymaster ;  Henry  King, 
Commissary ;  J.  R.  Snyder,  Quartermaster ;  Wil- 
liam H.  Russell,.  Ordnance  Officer;  J.  Talbot, 
Adjutant ;  and  J.  J.  Myers,  Serge  ant- Major. 

In  the  course  of  his  narrative  of  the  march, 
Mr.  Bryant  bestows  this  encomium  upon  the 
regiment,  which  all  other  accounts  amply  jus- 
tify:— 

"  The  men  composing  the  California  battalion 
have  been  drawn  from  many  sources,  and  are 
roughly  clad  and  weather-beaten  in  their  exte- 
rior appearance  ;  but  I  feel  it  but  justice  to  state 
my  belief,  that  no  military  party  ever  passed 
through  an  enemy's  country  and  observed  the 
same  strict  regard  for  the  rights  of  its  popula- 
tion. I  never  heard  of  an  outrage  or  even  a 
trespass  being  committed  by  one  of  the  Amer- 
ican volunteers  during  our  entire  march.  Every 
American  appeared  to  understand  perfectly  the 
duty  which  he  owed  to  himself  and  others  in 
this  respect,  and  the  deportment  of  the  bat- 
talion might  be  cited  as  a  model  for  imita- 
tion." 

After  marching  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles, 


248  LIFE    OF   FREMONT. 

they  surprised,  in  a  night  of  pitchy  darkness, 
San  Louis  Obispo,  the  seat  of  a  district  com- 
mandant, without  firing  a  gun,  and  captured 
Don  Jesus  Pico,  the  head  of  the  insurrection  in 
that  quarter.  Two  days  afterwards,  December 
16th,  Pico  was  tried  by  a  court-martial,  and 
condemned  to  death,  for  breaking  his  parole. 
The  next  day,  about  an  hour  before  noon,  at 
which  time  the  execution  was  to  take  place,  a 
procession  of  females,  headed  by  a  lady  of  fine 
appearance,  proceeded  to  the  quarters  of  Col. 
Fremont,  and  with  all  the  fervor  natural  to  a 
mother,  wife,  children,  and  near  relatives,  under 
such  circumstances,  implored  for  mercy,  and, 
prostrate  and  in  tears,  begged  for  the  life  of 
the  convict.  Their  supplication  was  granted. 
Pico,  who  had  borne  himself  with  perfect  cool- 
ness and  firmness  at  the  trial,  and  had  prepared 
to  die  with  "  the  solemn  dignity  of  a  Spaniard," 
when  brought  in  and  informed  of  his  pardon, 
flung  himself  with  unrestrained  emotion  before 
Col.  Fremont,  clasped  his  knees,  swore  eternal 
fidelity,  and  begged  the  privilege  of  fighting  and 
dying  for  him. 

His  subsequent  conduct  proved  him  faithful 
to  his  pledge.  Some  have  blamed  Col.  Fremont 
for  his  clemency  on  this  occasion  ;  but  he  knew 
better  than  they  know  the  great  and  deep  laws 
of  our  nature.  He  knew  well  the  people  of 
California,  who  were  more  truly  subdued  by 


INSURGENTS  SURRENDER  TO  FREMONT.    249 

that  act  of  mercy,  than  by  all  the  bloodshed  of 
battle,  and  all  the  terrors  of  our  power. 

On  the  27th  of  December,  the  battalion 
entered  without  resistance  the  town  of  Santa 
Barbara,  where  it  remained  recruiting  until  the 
3d  of  January,  1847.  On  the  llth  of  January, 
while  pursuing  their  march,  they  were  met  by 
two  Californians,  riding  in  great  haste,  bare- 
headed, who  informed  them  that  the  American 
forces,  under  Commodore  Stockton,  had  retaken 
Los  Angeles,  after  a  victorious  engagement  with 
the  insurgent  forces.  The  enemy's  force  was 
understood  to  be  in  the  vicinity,  and  the  next 
day  two  California  officers  came  into  camp  to 
treat  for  peace.  After  full  consultation,  articles 
were  agreed  upon  on  the  13th  of  January,  1847. 
They  stipulated  that  all  Californians  should 
deliver  up  their  arms,  return  peaceably  to  their 
homes,  not  take  up  arms  again  during  the  war 
between  the  United  States  and  Mexico,  and 
assist  and  aid  in  keeping  the  country  in  a  state 
of  peace  and  tranquillity.  Any  Californian  or 
citizen  of  Mexico,  who  might  desire  to  do  so, 
was  to  be  permitted  to  leave  the  country,  and 
none  be  required  to  take  the"  oath  of  allegiance 
to  the  United  States,  until  a  treaty  of  peace 
should  be  signed  and  made  between  the  United 
States  and  Mexico.  The  articles  of  capitulation 
were  signed  by  officers  duly  commissioned  for 
the  purpose,  and  approved  by  "  J.  C.  Fremont, 


250  LIFE   OF   FREMONT. 

Lieutenant- Colonel  U.  S.  Army,  and  Military 
Commandant  of  California,  and  by  Andres  Pico, 
Commandant  of  Squadron  and  Chief  of  the 
National  Forces  of  California." 

This,  was  the  "  Capitulation  of  Cowenga." 
It  terminated  the  war  so  far  as  California  was 
concerned.  No  hostile  arm  was  ever  again 
lifted,  except  in  the  ordinary  form  of  local  In- 
dian outbreaks,  within  the  limits  of  that  State, 
against  the  authority  of  the  United  States.  It 
secured  reconciliation  as  well  as  peace.  It  is  in 
evidence,  on  the  records  of  the  government,  that 
the  final  conquest  of  California  could  not  have 
been  accomplished  by  any  forces  then  on  the 
Pacific  coast,  without  the  aid  of  the  California 
battalion ;  and  that,  had  it  not  been  consum- 
mated by  the  Treaty  of  Cowenga,  a  "  bloody, 
vexatious,  and  predatory  warfare  "  would  surely 
have  been  protracted  for  an  indefinite  length  of 
time.  The  whole  western  slope  of  the  Sierra 
Nevada  would  have  afforded  safe  retreats,  inac- 
cessible to  naval  and  even  regular  military 
forces,  from  which  ravaging  parties  would  have 
rushed  down  upon  the  plains,  and  where  insur- 
rectionary movements  would  have  been  fomented 
perpetually.  Fremont  terrified  the  Californians 
and  the  Indians  by  the  celerity  and  boldness  of 
his  movements,  and  he  conquered  their  hearts 
by  the  good  conduct  of  his  men,  and  the  mod- 
eration and  clemency  of  his  policy. 


CAPITULATION   OF   COWENGA.  251 

In  a  despatch  from  General  Kearney  to  the 
War  Department  at  Washington,  dated  Ciudad 
de  los  Angeles,  January  14,  1847,  he  says  : — 

"  This  morning,  Lieutenant- Colonel  Fremont, 
of  the  regiment  of  mounted  riflemen,  reached 
here  with  four  hundred  volunteers  from  the  Sac- 
ramento ;  the  enemy  capitulated  with  him  yes- 
terday, near  San  Fernando,  agreeing  to  lay 
down  their  arms,  and  we  have  now  the  prospect 
of  having  peace  and  quietness  in  this  country, 
which  I  hope  may  not  be  interrupted  again." 

Mr.  Bryant,  in  his  book,  gives  a  minute  ac- 
count of  the  course  of  the  California  battalion 
from  Monterey  to  Los  Angeles.  It  was  in  mid- 
winter, over  a  rough  country,  in  rain  and  storm, 
one  of  the  hardest  marches  ever  made,  exhaust- 
ing to  the  strength  of  men,  and  most  destructive 
to  the  animals.  On  one  occasion  it  seemed  as 
if  all  would  sink  under  fatigue  and  suffering. 
Fremont  thus  refers  to  it,  in  a  document  drawn 
out  in  subsequent  proceedings :  "  We  pursued 
our  march,  passing  the  towns  on  the  way  with- 
out collision  with  the  people,  but  with  great 
labor  from  the  state  of  the  roads  and  rains.  On 
Christmas  day,  1846,  we  struggled  on  the  Santa 
Barbara  Mountain  in  a  tempest  of  chilling  rains 
and  winds,  in  which  a  hundred  horses  perished ; 
but  the  men  stood  to  it,  and  I  mention  it  to 
their  honor." 


'  CHAPTER  VI. 


ARRIVAL     OF      GENERAL      KEARNEY DIFFICULTIES 

BETWEEN     COMMANDERS ARREST COURT-MAR- 
TIAL. 

IT  is  necessary  at  this  point  to  go  back  a  few 
months.  After  completing  the  original  conquest 
of  California,  taking  possession  of  Ciudad  de 
los  Angeles,  its  capital,  and  providing  for  the 
administration  of  a  civil  and  military  govern- 
ment over  it,  Commodore  Stockton  and  Col- 
onel Fremont  sent  Carson,  with  fifteen  men,  to 
Washington  with  despatches,  relating  all  that 
had  taken  place.  He  was  to  make  the  journey 
and  return  in  140  days,  subsisting  on  his  mules 
as  he  went.  Having  crossed  the  wilderness  in 
about  thirty  days,  he  met  General  Kearney,  on 
his  way  to  California  to  conquer  that  country ! 
Upon  receiving  the  intelligence  which  Carson 
brought,  Kearney  divided  his  command,  and 
with  a  portion  of  it  continued  on  towards  Cali- 
fornia, taking  Carson  back  with  him.  When  he 
reached  the  borders  of  California  it  was  at  the 

(252) 


GENERAL   KEARNEY.  253 

height  of  the  insurrectionary  movement,  and  he 
was  met  by  the  enemy  in  great  force.  After 
one  or  two  bloody  encounters,  he  was  hemmed 
in  at  a  particular  point,  reduced  to  a  state  of 
siege,  and  for  want  of  grass  or  water  brought  to 
a  serious  extremity.  It  was  only  about  thirty 
miles  from  San  Diego.  Carson,  and  Passed 
Midshipman  Beale,  volunteered  to  go  there  for 
relief.  Accompanied  by  a  Delaware  Indian  they 
crawled  at  night  through  the  enemy's  lines.  To 
prevent  noise  they  took  off  their  shoes,  and  un- 
fortunately lost  them.  Concealing  themselves 
by  day,  they  reached  their  destination  the  second 
night ;  having  had  to  travel  in  a  circuit,  the  dis» 
tance  had  been  about  fifty  miles.  Their  flesh 
was  torn  and  bleeding  from  the  rocks  and 
thorns,  and  they  were  haggard  with  hunger, 
anxiety,  and  sleeplessness,  but  relief  was  ob- 
tained, and  General  Kearney's  command  was 
saved. 

He  had  reached  Los  Angeles  only  a  few  days 
before  the  capitulation  of  Cowenga,  and  was 
there  when  Col.  Fremont  arrived  with  his  bat- 
talion. 

At  this  point  a  very  disagreeable  state  of 
things  arose,  involving  many  unpleasant  per- 
sonal embarrassments.  The  government  at 
Washington,  being  at  such  a  great  distance 
from  the  scene  of  operations, — communications 
having  for  the  most  part  to  pass  around  Cape 
"22 


254  LIFE    OF   FREMONT. 

Horn, — and  not  knowing  the  state  of  things  at 
any  given  time,  had  to  frame  instructions  to  its 
officers  in  general  terms.  It  was  impossible  to 
be  specific,  for  no  one  could  tell  what  the  state 
of  facts  might  be  when  the  officer  or  his  des- 
patches should  reach  the  scene.  General  Kear- 
ney would  not  have  been  sent  out  at  all,  had  the 
government  imagined  that  Fremont  and  Stock- 
ton had  already  subdued  the  country.  Then, 
unfortunately,  a  quick  succession  of  naval  com- 
manders passed  over  the  stage — Sloat,  Stockton, 
Shubrick,  and  Biddle — each  liable  to  interpret 
his  duty  variously.  Sailors  were  turned  into 
soldiers,  and  performed  long  land  marches.  The 
consequence  was  that  differences  of  judgment 
arose,  and  questions  of  priority  and  precedence 
were  entertained. 

Col.  Fremont  had  not,  it  is  probable,  turned 
his  attention  much  to  such  questions.  His  life 
had  been  crowded  with  far  different  thoughts 
and  interests.  The  absence  of  the  higher  grades 
in  our  naval  service  tended  to  increase  the  diffi- 
culty. At  any  rate,  in  point  of  fact,  he  found 
Commodore  Stockton  and  General  Kearney 
disputing  the  right  to  command.  It  was  to  him 
an  open  question.  He  had,  however,  performed 
his  work,  and  received  his  appointments,  under 
Stockton. 

It  may  be  proper  here  to  quote  the  view  he 
took  of  the  subject  at  the  time,  as  frankly  given  in 


DIFFICULTIES    BETWEEN    COMMANDERS.         255 

a  letter  to  a  Mend.  Although  overruled,  after- 
wards, by  the  judgment  of  a  court-martial,  it  is 
evidently  a  sincere  opinion,  and  however  at  vari- 
ance with  the  artificial  code  of  military  etiquette, 
one  which  a  person  of  plain  common  sense 
might  very  naturally  have  entertained. 

"  When  I  entered  Los  Angeles  I  was  igno- 
rant of  the  relations  subsisting  between  these 
gentlemen,  having  received  from  neither  any 
order  or  information  which  might  serve  as  a 
guide  in  the  circumstances.  I  therefore,  imme- 
diately on  my  arrival,  waited  upon  the  governor 
and  commander-in-chief,  Commodore  Stockton ; 
and,  a  few  minutes  afterwards,  called  upon 
General  Kearney.  I  soon  found  them  occupy- 
ing a  hostile  attitude,  and  ea5h  denying  the 
right  of  the  other  to  assume  the  direction  of 
affairs  in  this  country. 

"  The  ground  assumed  by  General  Kearney 
was,  that  he  held  in  his  hand  plenary  instruc- 
tions from  the  President  directing  him  to  con- 
quer California,  and  organize  a  civil  government, 
and  that  consequently  he  would  not  recognize 
the  acts  of  Commodore  Stockton. 

"  The  latter  maintained  that  his  own  instruc- 
tions were  to  the  same  effect  as  Kearney's  ;  that 
this  officer's  commission  was  obsolete,  and  never 
would  have  been  given  could  the  Government 
have  anticipated  that  the  entire  country,  sea- 
board and  interior,  would  have  been  conquered 


256  LIFE   OF   FREMONT. 

and  held  by -himself.  The  country  had  been 
conquered  and  a  civil  government  instituted 
since  September  last,  the  constitution  of  the  ter- 
ritory, and  appointments  under  the  constitution, 
had  been  sent  to  the  government  for  its  approval, 
and  decisive  action  undoubtedly  long  since  had 
upon  them.  General  Kearney  was  instructed 
to  conquer  the  country,  and  upon  its  threshold 
his  command  had  been  nearly  cut  to  pieces,  and, 
but  for  relief  from  him  (Commodore  Stockton) 
would  have  been  destroyed.  More  men  were 
lost  than  in  General  Taylor's  battle  of  the  8th. 
In  regard  to  the  remaining  part  of  his  instruc- 
tions, how  could  he  organize  a  government  with- 
out first  proceeding  to  disorganize  the  present 
one  ?  His  work  had  been  anticipated;  his  com- 
mission was  absolutely  void,  null,  and  of  no 
effect. 

"  But  if  General  Kearney  believed  that  his  in- 
structions gave  him  paramount  authority  in  the 
country,  he  made  a  fatal  error  on  his  arrival. 
He  was  received  with  kindness  and  distinction 
by  the  Commodore,  and  offered  by  him  the 
command  of  his  land  forces.  General  Kearney 
rejected  the  offer  and  declined  interfering  with 
Commodore  Stockton.  This  officer  was  then 
preparing  for  a  march  to  Ciudad  de  los  Angeles, 
his  force  being  principally  sailors  and  marines, 
who  were  all  on  foot,  (fortunately  for  them,)  and 
who  were  to  be  provided  with  supplies  on  thoir 


DIFFICULTIES    BETWEEN    COMMANDERS.        257 

march  through  an  enemy's  country  where  all  the 
people  are  cavalry.  His  force  was  paraded,  and 
ready  to  start,  700  in  number,  supported  by  six 
pieces  of  artillery.  The  command,  under  Com- 
modore Stockton,  had  been  conferred  upon  his 
first  lieutenant,  Mr.  Rowan.  At  this  juncture 
General  Kearney  expressed  to  Commodore 
Stockton  his  expectation  that  the  command 
would  have  been  given  to  him.  The  Commo- 
dore informed  the  General  that  Lieutenant 
Rowan  was  in  his  usual  line  of  duty,  as  on 
board  ship,  relieving  him  of  the  detail  and 
drudgery  of  the  camp,  while  he  himself  re- 
mained the  commander-in-chief ;  that  if  General 
Kearney  was  willing  to  accept  Mr.  Rowan's 
place,  under  these  circumstances,  he  could  have 
it.  The  General  assented.  Commodore  Stock- 
ton called  up  his  officers  and  explained  the  case. 
Mr.  Rowan  gave  up  his  post  generously  and 
without  hesitation ;  and  Commodore  Stockton 
desired  them  clearly  to  understand  that  he  re- 
mained the  commander-in-chief; — under  this 
arrangement  the  whole  force  entered  Angeles ; 
and  on  the  day  of  my  arrival  at  that  place 
General  Kearney  told  me  that  he  did  then,  at 
that  moment,  recognize  Commodore  Stockton 
as  governor  of  the  territory. 

"  You  are  aware  that  I  had  contracted  rela- 
tions with  Commodore  Stockton,  and  I  thought 
it  neither  right  nor  politically  honorable  to 

22* 


258  LIFE    OF   FREMONT. 

withdraw  my  support.  No  reason  of  interest 
shall  ever  compel  me  to  act  towards  any  man 
in  such  a  way  that  I  should  afterwards  be 
ashamed  to  meet  him." 

These  were  the  views  which  led  Col.  Fre- 
mont to  take  the  position  which  a  military 
tribunal  subsequently  adjudged  to  be  erroneous. 
But  entertaining  them  honestly,  he  acted  upon 
them  fearlessly  and  with  decision.  The  follow- 
ing is  his  answer  to  an  order  received  from  Gen- 
eral Kearney  two  days  after  his  entrance,  with 
his  California  battalion,  into  Los  Angeles. 

"  Ciudad  de  los  Angeles,  January,  1847. 

"  SIR  :  I  have  the  honor  to  be  in  receipt  of 
your  favor  of  last  night,  in  which  I  am  directed 
to  suspend  the  execution  of  orders,  which,  in  my 
capacity  of  military  commandant  of  this  territory, 
I  had  received  from  Commodore  Stockton,  gov- 
ernor and  commander-in-chief  in  California.  I 
avail  myself  of  an  early  hour,  this  morning,  to 
make  such  a  reply  as  the  brief  time  allowed  for 
reflection  will  enable  me. 

"  I  found  Commodore  Stockton  in  possession 
of  the  country,  exercising  the  functions  of  mili- 
tary commandant  and  civil  governor,  as  early  as 
July  of  last  year ;  and  shortly  thereafter  I  received 
from  him  the  commission  of  military  command- 
ant, the  duties  of  which  I  immediately  entered 
upon,  and  have  continued  to  exercise  to  the 
present  moment. 


DIFFICULTIES    BETWEEN    COMMANDERS.          259 

"  I  found  also,  on  my  arrival  at  this  place, 
some  three  or  four  days  since,  Commodore 
Stockton  still  exercising  the  functions  of  civil 
and  military  governor,  with  the  same  apparent 
deference  to  his  rank  on  the  part  of  all  officers, 
(including  yourself,)  as  he  maintained  and 
required,  when  he  assumed  in  July  last. 

"  I  learned  also,  in  conversation  with  you,  that 
on  the  march  from  San  Diego,  recently,  to  this 
place,  you  entered  upon  and  discharged  duties, 
implying  an  acknowledgment  on  your  part  of 
supremacy  to  Commodore  Stockton. 

"  I  feel,  therefore,  with  great  deference  to  your 
professional  and  personal  character,  constrained 
to  say  that,  until  you  and  Commodore  Stockton 
adjust  between  yourselves  the  question  of  rank, 
where  I  respectfully  think  the  difficulty  belongs, 
I  shall  have  to  report  and  receive  orders,  as  here- 
tofore, from  the  Commodore. 

"  With  considerations  of  high  regard, 

"  I  am,  sir,  your  obedient  servant, 

"J.  C.  FREMONT, 
"  Lieutenant-Colonel  U.  S.  Army,  and  Military 

Commandant  of  the  Territory  of  California. 

"  Brig.  Gen.  S.  W.  KEARNEY,  U.  S.  Army." 

For  this  letter,  and  the  line  of  conduct  based 
upon  it,  Col.  Fremont  was  brought  to  a  court- 
martial.  The  merits  of  the  case  will  not  be 
discussed  here.  It  rested  upon  questions  of 


260  LIFE    OF   FREMONT. 

rank,  in  reference  to  which  all  officers  are  par- 
ticularly sensitive,  and  led  to  a  heated  contro- 
versy between  gallant  men.  But  as  Colonel 
Fremont  sent  a  message  to  the  dying  pillow  of 
the  principal  prosecutor,  of  forgiveness,  Christian 
sympathy,  and  good-will,  it  would  ill  become 
these  pages  to  renew  the  controversy. 

Finding  himself  in  this  disagreeable  position, 
he  endeavored  to  procure  permission  to  join  his 
regiment  in  Mexico.  He  was  prepared  with 
sixty  picked  men,  and  one  hundred  and  twenty 
horses,  to  set  out,  and  would  have  reached  the 
theatre  of  the  war  in  time  to  have  participated 
in  its  crowning  victories, — but  he  was  refused. 
A  like  result  followed  an  application  to  be 
allowed  to  collect  his  exploring  party  and  return 
over  a  route  not  then  traversed. 

Upon  learning  that  a  difficulty  had  arisen 
between  General  Kearney  and  Col.  Fremont, 
the  government  at  Washington  endeavored  to 
avert  the  unpleasant  consequences  that  might 
flow  from  it.  Mr.  Marcy,  Secretary  of  War,  in  a 
despatch  to  General  Kearney,  dated  June  11, 
1847,  alludes  to  the  subject,  and  explains  the 
reasons  why  instructions  given  the  year  before 
to  naval  officers  had  borne  the  appearance  of 
conferring  on  them  the  control  of  affairs  in  Cali- 
fornia. They  knew  of  no  force  there  except  the 
naval.  It  had  not,  indeed,  entered  their  dreams 
that  an  exploring  party  could  be  transformed 


ARREST.  261 

into  an  invincible  battalion, — and  little  did  they 
imagine,  when  they  started  General  Kearney 
across  the  continent,  that  Fremont  and  Stockton 
had  already  conquered  California. 

Mr.  Marcy  informs  General  Kearney,  that 
the  Government  is  apprised  that  "  Lieutenant- 
Colonel  Fremont  bore  a  conspicuous  part  in  the 
conquest  of  California;  and  that  his  services 
have  been  very  valuable  in  that  country." 
"  Should  Lieutenant- Colonel  Fremont,"  he  con- 
tinues, "  who  has  the  option  to  return  or  remain, 
adopt  the  latter  alternative,  the  President  does 
not  doubt  that  you  will  employ  him  in  such  a 
manner  as  will  render  his  services  most  available 
to  the  public  interest,  having  reference  to  his 
extensive  acquaintance  with  the  inhabitants  of 
California,  and  his  knowledge  of  their  language, 
— qualifications,  independently  of  others,  which 
it  is  supposed  may  be  very  useful  in  the  present 
and  prospective  state  of  our  affairs  in  that 
country." 

But  the  advice  qjid  suggestions  of  the  secre- 
tary availed  nothing.  Brigadier- General  Kear- 
ney came  home  in  the  course  of  the  season,  and 
Col.  Fremont  accompanied  him,  being  ordered 
to  follow  in  his  rear ;  and,  upon  reaching  Mis- 
souri, was  put  under  arrest, — a  purpose  long 
formed,  but  not  until  then  made  known  to  him. 
The  court-martial  assembled  at  the  Washington 
Arsenal,  in  the  District  of  Columbia,  at  twelve 


262  LIFE   OF  FREMONT. 

o'clock,  November  2,  1847.  The  sentence  of 
the  court  was  made  up,  and  the  body  dissolved, 
on  the  31st  of  January,  1848.  There  were  three 
charges.  The  first  was  Mutiny.  The  second 
was  Disobedience  to  the  lawful  command  of  his 
superior  officer.  The  third  was  Conduct  to  the 
prejudice  of  good  order  and  military  discipline. 

In  the  opening  of  his  defence,  which  is  an 
able  and  manly  document,  after  reciting  the 
charges,  he  thus  states  its  general  ground,  and 
shows  the  spirit  in  which  he  made  it : — 

"  The  two  superior  officers  in  California,  with 
whom  the  difficulties  began,  (Commodore  Stock- 
ton and  General  Kearney,)  have  each  had  the 
benefit  of  stating  his  own  case  before  this  court, 
showing  under  what  authority  they  went  and 
acted,  what  they  did,  and  how  they  became 
involved  with  one  another,  and  how  I  became 
involved  in  their  contest. 

"An  incident  and  a  subordinate  in  this  con- 
test where  it  originated,  and  turned  up  as  prin- 
cipal figure  in  it  here  for  criminal  prosecution, 
I  am  happy  to  find  that  my  rights,  in  one 
respect,  are  at  least  equal  to  theirs, — that  of 
stating  my  own  case  as  fully  as  they  stated 
theirs,  and  showing  how  I  became  principal  in 
a  contest  which  was  theirs  before  I  heard  of  it 
or  came  near  them.  And  which,  as  suggested 
heretofore,  ought  to  have  been  settled  between 
themselves,  or  by  the  Government,  whose  com- 


COURT-MARTIAL.  263 

missions  they  both  bore.  A  subordinate  in  rank, 
as  in  the  contest,  long  and  secretly  marked  out 
for  prosecution  by  the  commanding  general, 
assailed  in  newspaper  publications  when  three 
thousand  miles  distant,  and  standing  for  more 
than  two  months  before  this  court  to  hear  all 
that  could  be  sworn  against  my  private  honor  as 
well  as  against  my  official  conduct,  I  come  at 
last  to  the  right  to  speak  for  myself. 

"  In  using  this  privilege,  I  have  to  ask  of  this 
court  to  believe  that  the  preservation  of  a  com- 
mission is  no  object  of  my  defence.  It  came  to 
me,  as  did  those  which  preceded  it,  without 
asking,  either  by  myself  or  by  any  friend  in  my 
behalf.  I  endeavored  to  resign  it  in  California, 
through  General  Kearney,  in  March  last,  (not 
knowing  of  his  design  to  arrest  me,)  when  it 
was  less  injurious  to  me  than  it  is  at  present. 
Such  as  it  now  is,  it  would  not  be  worth 
one  moment's  defence  before  this  court.  But 
I  have  a  name  which  was  without  a  blemish 
before  I  received  that  commission ;  and  that 
name  it  is  my  intention  to  defend." 

The  court  pronounced  him  guilty  on  every 
specification  of  each  charge.  The  president  of 
the  court,  Bt.  Brig.  General  Brooke,  Lieut.  Col. 
Hunt,  Lieut.  Col.  Taylor,  and  Major  Baker, 
filed  the  following  paper,  with  the  record : — 

"  Under  the  circumstances  in  which  Lieuten- 
ant Colonel  Fremont  was  placed,  between  two 


264  LIFE   OF  FREMONT. 

officers  of  superior  rank,  each  claiming  to  com- 
mand-in-chief  in  California,  —  circumstances  in 
their  nature  calculated  to  embarrass  the  mind, 
and  excite  the  doubts  of  officers  of  greater  ex- 
perience than  the  accused ;  and,  in  consideration 
of  the  important  professional  services  rendered 
by  him,  previous  to  the  occurrence  of  the  acts 
for  which  he  has  been  tried,  the  undersigned, 
members  of  the  court,  respectfully  commend 
Lieutenant- Colonel  Fremont  to  the  lenient  con- 
sideration of  the  President  of  the  United  States." 

Lieutenant- Colonel  Long,  Lieutenant- Colonel 
Morgan,  and  Major  Delafield,  filed  the  following 
paper : — 

"  Under  all  the  circumstances  of  this  case,  and 
in  consideration  of  the  distinguished  professional 
services  of  the  accused,  previous  to  the  trajisac- 
tions  for  which  he  has  now  been  tried,  the  under- 
signed beg  leave  to  recommend  him  to  the 
clemency  of  the  President  of  the  United  States." 

The  action  of  the  President,  on  the  case,  was 
as  follows: — 

"  Upon  an  inspection  of  the  record,  I  am  not 
satisfied  that  the  facts  proved  in  this  case  con- 
stitute the  military  crime  of  'mutiny.'  I  am 
of  opinion  that  the  second  and  third  charges  are 
sustained  by  the  proof,  and  that  the  conviction 
upon  these  charges  warrants  the  sentence  of  the 
court.  The  sentence  of  the  court  is  therefore 
approved;  but,  in  consideration  of  the  peculiar 


RESIGNATION   OF   COMMISSION.  265 

circumstances  of  the  case,  of  the  previous 
meritorious  and  valuable  services  of  Lieutenant- 
Colonel  Fremont,  and  of  the  foregoing  recom- 
mendations of  a  majority  of  the  members  of  the 
court,  the  penalty  of  dismissal  from  the  service 
is  remitted. 

"  Lieutenant- Colonel  Fremont  will  accord- 
ingly be  released  from  arrest,  will  resume  his 
sword,  and  report  for  duty.  JAMES  K.  POLK." 

Upon  receiving  notice  of  the  result  of  the 
trial,  Colonel  Fremont  addressed  the  following 
letter  to  the  Adjutant- General: — 

"  Washington  City,  C  Street,  Feb.  19,  1848. 

"  SIR:  I  have  this  moment  received  the  general 
order,  No.  7,  (dated  the  17th  instant,)  making 
known  to  me  the  final  decision  in  the  proceed- 
ings of  the  general  court-martial,  before  which  I 
have  been  tried;  and  hereby  send  in  my  resig- 
nation of  lieutenant-colonel  in  the  army  of  the 
United  States. 

"  In  doing  this,  I  take  the  occasion  to  say  that 
my  reason  for  resigning  is  that  I  do  not  feel 
conscious  of  having  done  anything  to  merit  the 
finding  of  the  court;  and,  this  being  the  case, 
I  cannot,  by  accepting  the  clemency  of  the 
President,  admit  the  justice  of  the  decision 
against  me. 

"  Very  respectfully  your  obedient  servant, 

«J.  C.  FREMONT." 
23 


266  UFE    OF   FREMONT. 

The  judgment  of  the  people  of  the  United 
States  on  this  trial  and  its  result,  was  undoubt- 
edly what  is  expressed  in  the  language  used  by 
General  Brooke  and  his  three  associates.  The 
finding  of  the  court,  under  the  circumstances — a 
majority  of  its  members  doing  what  they  could 
to  ward  off  the  blow,  and  the  President  nullify- 
ing in  fact,  while  he  nominally  approved,  the 
sentence — was  regarded  as  reflecting  no  stigma 
whatever  on  Colonel  Fremont.  But  the  whole 
procedure  created  a  sympathy  for  him  in  the 
hearts  of  the  American  people,  which  deepened 
the  admiration  his  romantic  career  had  excited, 
and  gave  him  that  place  in  their  affections  which 
he  holds  to  this  day,  and  will  continue  to  hold 
in  all  coming  time. 

In  his  own  State,  where  he  was  reared  to  man- 
hood, the  feeling  in  his  favor  was,  naturally, 
particularly  deep.  It  was  the  residence  of  his 
widowed  mother,  who  had  watched  his  brilliant 
but  perilous  career  with  all  the  fondness,  anxiety, 
and  pride  of  the  maternal  heart.  When  she 
heard  that  he  was  brought  home  under  arrest, 
and  was  to  be  tried  on  charges  that  touched 
his  life  and  honor,  she  sunk  under  the  blow. 
He  hastened  to  her,  but  only  to  discharge  the 
last  office  of  filial  love  and  sorrow.  She  died 
the  day  before  his  arrival.  The  people  of 
Charleston  expressed  their  sense  of  his  character 
and  services  in-  a  public  and  emphatic  manner. 


PROCEEDINGS   IN    CHARLESTON.  267 

"  At  a  meeting,  held  at  the  Charleston  Hotel, 
on  the  evening  of  the  16th  instant,  for  the  pur- 
pose of  rendering  to  Lieutenant- Colonel  Fre- 
mont a  proper  tribute  of  respect  for  his  gallantry 
and  good  conduct  in  his  late  expeditions  to 
Oregon  and  California,  Henry  W.  Conner,  Esq. 
was  called  to  the  chair,  and  George  H.  Cameron 
appointed  Secretary. 

The  Chairman,  in  a  brief  and  pertinent  ad- 
dress, stated  that  Colonel  Fremont,  as  they  all 
knew,  was  a  native  of  Charleston,  and  the  city 
might  well  be  proud  of  him ;  for  the  brilliancy 
of  his  achievements,  the  important  results  he 
has  accomplished  for  his  country,  and  the  high 
qualities  which  he  has  displayed  in  every  variety 
of  circumstance  in  which  he  has  been  placed, 
entitle  him  to  rank  as  amongst  the  most  dis- 
tinguished men  of  the  times.  This  sentiment, 
he  believed,  was  unanimous  in  the  community; 
and,  with  a  view  of  giving  some  public  expres- 
sion of  the  feeling,  it  was  proposed,  some  time 
since,  by  a  number  of  public-spirited  gentlemen, 
some  of  them  the  early  friends  and  associates  of 
Colonel  Fremont,  to  raise,  by  subscriptions  from 
among  our  citizens,  of  one  dollar  each,  a  sum 
of  money  to  be  appropriated  to  the  purchase  of 
a  sword,  or  other  suitable  testimonial,  to  be 
presented  to  Colonel  Fremont,  as  an  evidence 
of  the  high  estimation  in  which  his  distinguished 
services  and  gallant  conduct  are  held  by  his 
fellow-townsmen. 


268  LIFE   OP  FREMONT. 

The  subscription  being  some  time  since  full, 
the  object  of  the  present  meeting  was  to  carry 
the  design  into  effect.  The  following  resolutions 
were  then  introduced  by  John  E.  Carew,  Esq., 
and  unanimously  adopted. 

Resolved,  That  this  community  highly  ap- 
preciate the  eminent  services  rendered  to  his 
country  by  their  fellow-townsman,  Lieutenant- 
Colonel  Fremont,  in  his  late  surveys  and  ex- 
ploration of  Oregon  and  California,  under  cir- 
cumstances of  extreme  peril  and  privation, 
requiring  the  exercise  of  the  utmost  fortitude 
and  decision  of  character. 

Resolved,  That  we  equally  appreciate  the 
meritorious  services  rendered  by  Lieutenant- 
Colonel  Fremont  to  the  cause  of  science  in 
general,  by  his  indefatigable  zeal  and  energy,  in 
extending  his  researches  and  discoveries  in  those 
unknown  regions. 

Resolved,  That  his  friends  and  associates,  in 
common  with  the  people  of  Charleston  in  gen- 
eral, particularly  admire  and  approve  the  heroic 
conduct  of  Colonel  Fremont,  in  repelling  an  un- 
provoked and  unmanly  attack  made  upon  him 
by  Governor  Castro  with  a  vastly  superior  force, 
and  the  promptitude  and  energy  with  which, 
with  a  mere  handful  of  men,  he  not  only 
defeated,  but  pursued  his  enemy,  surprising  and 
capturing  forts  strongly  defended  with  ordnance 
and  men,  and  eventually  taking  possession  of 


PRESENTATION   SWORD.  269 

the   province,  and,  with   the   American  citizens 
resident  therein,  declaring  its  independence. 

Resolved,  That  in  testimony  of  the  high 
estimation  in  which  his  gallant  conduct  and 
brilliant  achievements  are  held  by  his  friends  and 
fellow-townsmen,  a  committee  be  appointed  to 
present  to  Colonel  Fremont,  in  their  behalf,  a 
sword,  with  appropriate  devices  and  inscriptions, 
accompanied  by  suitable  expressions  of  regard 
and  esteem  for  his  person  and  character. 

The  following  Committee  was  appointed 
under  the  last  resolution : — 

JOHN  E.  CAREW, 

HENRY  GOURDIN, 

W.  C.   GATEWOOD. 

W.  H.  TRESCOTT, 

G.  S.  BRYAN, 

S.  Y.  TUPPER. 

On  motion  of  John  E.  Carew,  Esq.,  the  Chair- 
man of  the  meeting  was  added  as  Chairman  of 
the  Committee. 

H.  W.  CONNER,  Chairman. 

GEORGE  H.  CAMERON,  Secretary." 

The  sword  presented  on  this  occasion  was  a 
rich  and  splendid  specimen  of  highly  wrought 
and  elaborately  executed  .workmanship.  It  is 
gold  and  silver  mounted.  The  head  of  the  hilt, 
around  which  is  coiled  a  rattlesnake,  belonging 
to  the  old  arms  of  the  State,  is  formed  to 

•23* 


270  LIFE    OF   FKEMOXT. 

represent  the  summit  of  the  Palmetto-tree.  On 
the  guard  is  a  map,  with  the  word  "  Oregon," 
partly  unrolled,  to  display  the  coast  of  the 
Pacific  Ocean.  On  the  scabbard,  which  is  gold, 
are  two  silver  shields,  hung  together,  with  the 
words  "California"  and  "1846,"  respectively. 
Below  them  is  the  following  inscription  :  — 


BY  THE   CITIZENS   OF   CHARLESTON 
TO   LIEUTENANT-COLONEL 

JOHN     CHARLES     FREMONT. 

A  MEMORIAL  OF  THEIR  HIGH  APPRECIATION 
OF    THE    GALLANTRY   AND    SCIENCE 

HE   HAS   DISPLAYED   IN   HIS 
SERVICES  IN   OREGON  AND   CALIFORNIA. 

Still  lower  down  on  the  scabbard  is  a  repre- 
sentation of  a  buffalo  hunt. 

An  elegant  and  costly  gold-mounted  belt, 
having  the  present  arms  of  the  State  on  its 
clasp,  presented  by  the  LADIES  OF  CHARLESTON, 
accompanied  the  sword. 

On  the  1st  of  February,  the  day  after  the  con- 
clusion of  the  court-martial,  the  military  com- 
mittee of  the  Senate  of  the  United  States, 
consisting  of  Messrs.  Cass,  Benton,  Crittenden, 
Dix,  Rusk,  and  Davis,  commenced  an  investiga- 
tion, in  relation  to  California  claims  on  the  gov- 
ernment of  the  United  States.  On  the  23d  of 


PUBLIC    SENTIMENT.  271 

that  month,  the  chairman,  General  Cass,  pre- 
sented a  Report,  of  which  the  Senate  ordered 
20,000  extra  copies  to  be  printed.  It  contained 
a  great  amount  of  testimony,  given  under  oath, 
demonstrating  the  invaluable  services  rendered 
by  Col.  Fremont,  in  the  various  stages  of  the 
conquest  of  California,  and  presenting,  in  an 
authentic  and  unquestionable  form,  the  claims  of 
his  heroic  battalion,  and  of  all  who  served  under 
him.  On  the  5th  of  June,  the  Senate  ordered 
"  twenty  .thousand  copies  of  J.  C.  Fremont's  Map 
of  Oregon  and  California,  reduced  from  the 
original,  according  to  the  projection  to  be  fur- 
nished by  the  said  J.  C.  Fremont,"  to  be  litho- 
graphed and  printed ;  and  on  the  15th  of  June,  also 
ordered  the  printing  of  "Fremont's  Geograph- 
ical Memoir  (illustrative  of  his  map)  of  Upper 
California."  This  memoir  is  an  able,  scientific, 
and  condensed  document,  written  in  his  felicit- 
ous and  pictorial  style,  describing  and  illustrat- 
ing the  map,  and  particularly  presenting  the 
peculiar  natural  features — agricultural,  botanical, 
and  meteorological — of  the  "  Sierra  Nevada,"  the 
"  Great  Basin,"  the  "  Maritime  region  west  of 
the  Sierra  Nevada,"  and  the  "  Valleys  of  the 
Sacramento  and  San  Joaquin."  In  an  official 
letter  to  the  President,  dated  July  17,  1848, 
James  Buchanan,  Secretary  of  State,  in  treating 
of  the  population  of  California,  speaks  of  Col. 
Fremont,  "  as  entitled  to  the  highest  considera- 


272  LIFE    OF   FREMONT. 

tion,  from  his  well-known  ability  and  superior 
means  of  information,"  in  reference  to  that  coun- 
try and  the  Pacific  regions  generally. 

These  facts  sufficiently  show  that  Col.  Fre- 
mont came  out  unscathed  from  the  fiery  ordeal 
he  had  been  made  to  pass.  His  spirit  was  not 
broken — his  fame  impaired — his  zeal  reduced — 
or  his  devotion  to  the  great  purpose  of  his  life 
abated,  one  jot  or  one  tittle.  Released  from 
official  entanglement,  and  freed  from  public 
control,  he  soon  again  embarked  in  his  chosen 
enterprise. 


CHAPTER  VII. 

FOURTH    EXPEDITION GREAT  SUFFERINGS MARI- 

POSA  PURCHASE CONSTITUTION  OF  CALIFORNIA. 

His  Fourth  Expedition  was  undertaken, 
mainly,  at  his  own  cost  and  charges.  Several 
public-spirited  and  liberal  individuals,  belonging 
to  St.  Louis,  Missouri,  advanced  the  necessary 
means,  and  took  the  risk  of  repayment,  which 
was  duly  made.  Among  them,  Col.  Robert 
Campbell  and  Thornton  Grimsley  are  particu- 
larly to  be  mentioned.  O.  D.  Filley  presented 
outright  a  considerable  part  of  the  camp  equi- 
page. Doctor  George  Engleman,  also  of  St. 
Louis,  a  gentleman  of  great  personal  worth  and 
scientific  attainments  and  zeal,  devoted  himself, 
on  this  as  on  all  other  occasions,  to  aid  Col. 
Fremont  in  his  preparations.  The  Expedition 
started  October  19,  1848. 

As  no  full  report  of  this  Expedition  has  yet 
been  published,  it  can  only  be  presented  in  brief. 
The  following  letter  to  Colonel  Benton  gives  an 
account  of  the  progress  and  impressions  made 
up  to  its  date. 

(273) 


274  LIFE    OF   FREMONT. 

"Camp  at  Bent's  Fort,  Nov.  17,  1848. 

"  MY  DEAR  SIR  :  We  have  met  with  very  rea- 
sonable success  and  some  good  results  this  first 
long  step  upon  our  journey.  In  order  to  avoid 
the  chance  of  snow-storms  upon  the  more  ex- 
posed Arkansas  road,  I  followed  up  the  line  of 
the  Southern  Kansas  (the  true  Kansas  River) 
and  so  far  added  something  to  geography.  For 
a  distance  of  400  miles  our  route  led  through  a 
country  affording  abundant  timber,  game,  and 
excellent  grass.  We  find  that  the  Valley  of 
the  Kansas  affords  by  far  the  most  eligible 
approach  to  the  mountains.  The  whole  valley 
soil  is  of  very  superior  quality,  well  timbered, 
abundant  grasses,  and  the  route  very  direct. 
This  line  would  afford  continuous  and  good  set- 
tlements certainly  for  400  miles,  and  is  therefore 
worthy  of  consideration  in  any  plan  of  approach 
to  the  mountains.  We  found  our  friend  Major 
Fitzpatrick  in  .the  full  exercise  of  his  functions 
at  a  point  about  thirty  miles  below  this,  in  what 
is  called  the  '  Big  Timber,'  and  surrounded  by 
about  600  lodges  of  different  nations,  Apaches, 
Camanches,  Kioways,  and  Arapahoes.  He  is  a 
most  admirable  agent,  entirely  educated  for  such 
a  post,  and  possessing  the  ability  and  courage 
necessary  to  make  his  education  available.  He 
has  succeeded  in  drawing  out  from  among  the 
Camanches  the  whole  Kioway  nation  with  the 
exception  of  six  lodges,  and  brought  over  among 


MAJOR   FITZPATRICK. 


them  a  considerable  number  of  lodges  of  the 
Apaches  and  Camanches.  When  we  arrived  he 
was  holding  a  talk  with  them,  making  a  feast 
and  giving  them  a  few  presents.  We  found 
them  all  on  their  good  behavior,  and  were  treated 
in  the  most  friendly  manner;  were  neither  an- 
noyed by  them,  nor  had  any  thing  stolen  from  us. 
I  hope  you  will  be  able  to  give  him  some  support. 
He  will  be  able  to  save  lives  and  money  for  the 
government,  and  knowing  how  difficult  this  In- 
dian question  may  become,  I  am  particular  in 
bringing  Fitzpatrick's  operations  to  your  notice. 
In  a  few  years  he  might  have  them  all  farming 
here  on  the  Arkansas. 

"Both  Indians  and  whites  here  report  the  snow 
to  be  deeper  in  the  mountains  than  has  for  a 
long  time  been  known  so  early  in  the  season, 
and  they  predict  a  severe  winter.  This  morning 
for  the  first  time,  the  mountains  showed  them- 
selves, covered  with  snow,  as  well  as  the  country 
around  us,  for  it  snowed  steadily  the  greater  part 
of  yesterday  and  the  night  before.  Still,  I  am 
in  nowise  discouraged  by  the  prospect,  and  be- 
lieve that  we  shall  succeed  in  forcing  our  way 
across.  We  will  ascend  the  Del  Norte  to  its 
head,  descend  on  to  the  Colorado,  and  so  across 
the  Wahsatch  mountains  and  the  basin  country 
somewhere  near  the  37th  parallel,  reaching  the 
settled  parts  of  California  near  Monterey. 
There  is,  I  think,  a  pass  in  the  Sierra  Nevada 


276  LIFE   OF   FREMONT. 

between  the  37th  and  38th,  which  I  wish  to 
examine.  The  party  is  in  good  spirits  and 
good  health ;  we  have  a  small  store  of  pro- 
visions for  hard  times,  and  our  instruments, 
barometer  included,  all  in  good  order.  We 
are  always  up  an  hour  or  two  before  light, 
and  the  breakfasts  are  all  over,  and  the  camp 
preparing  to  move,  before  sunrise.  This  break- 
fasting before  daylight,  with  the  thermometer 
ranging  from  12°  to  18°,  is  a  somewhat  startling 
change  from  the  pleasant  breakfast-table  in 
your  stove-warmed  house.  I  think  that  I  shall 
never  cross  the  continent  again,  except  at 
Panama.  I  do  not  feel  the  pleasure  that  I 
used  to  have  in  these  labors,  as  they  remain 
inseparably  connected  with  painful  circum- 
stances, due  mostly  to  them.  It  needs  strong 
incitements  to  undergo  the  hardships  and  self- 
denial  of  this  kind  of  life,  and  as  I  find  I  have 
these  no  longer,  I  will  drop  into  a  quiet  life. 
Should  we  have  reasonable  success,  we  shall 
be  in  California  early  in  January,  say  about 
the  8th,  where  I  shall  expect  to  hear  from  ah1 
by  the  steamer.  Referring  you  for  other  details 
to  Jessie,  to  whom  I  have  written  at  length,  I 
remain  most  affectionately  yours, 

«  J.  C.  FREMONT." 

The  people  of  St.  Louis  took  a  deep  interest  in 
this  expedition,  as  is  evident  from  the  part  they 


SENTIMENTS   OF   ST.    LOUIS.  277 

bore  in  getting  it  up.  A  spirited  public  meeting 
was  held  there,  on  the  21st  of  February,  1849,  at 
which  speeches  were  made  by  the  Mayor  and 
others,  and  a  series  of  Resolutions  adopted  set- 
ting forth  the  importance  of  a  "  National  Road 
to  the  Pacific."  There  was  also  a  special  Reso- 
lution passed  as  follows  : — 

"  Resolved,  that  the  thanks  of  this  meeting  be 
tendered  to  Colonel  J.  C.  Fremont,  for  his  intrep- 
id perseverance  and  valuable  scientific  explora- 
tions in  the  regions  of  the  Rocky  and  Californian 
Mountains,  by  which  we  have  been  furnished 
with  a  knowledge  of  the  passes  and  altitudes  of 
those  mountains,  and  are  now  able  to  judge  of 
the  entire  practicability  of  constructing  a  rail- 
road over  them  from  St.  Louis  to  San  Francisco 
in  California  ;  and  that  the  officers  of  this  meet- 
ing be  requested  to  furnish  Mrs.  Fremont  (Colo- 
nel Fremont  being  in  California)  with  a  copy  of 
these  proceedings." 

The  copy  of  the  proceedings  was  communi- 
cated with  the  following  letter : — 

St.  Louis,  February  22,  1849. 

MRS.  FREMONT,  MADAM  : — 

As  the  officers  of  a  public  meeting  held  in 
this  city,  it  is  made  our  duty  to  transmit  to  you 
a  copy  of  the  proceedings  had  on  that  occasion, 
with  which  we  most  cheerfully  comply  by  en- 
closing herewith  a  printed  copy  thereof. 


278  LIFE    OP    FREMONT. 

Permit  us,  Madam,  in  the  performance  of  this 
pleasing  duty  to  say  that  to  no  one  could  the 
compliment  intended  to  be  conveyed  by  the  res- 
olution, and  so  justly  merited,  be  more  accept- 
able than  to  yourself.  A  native  of  St.  Louis, 
the  terminus  of  the  magnificent  work,  the  honored 
lady  of  the  gallant  and  intrepid  explorer  of  the 
route,  and  esteemed  daughter  of  the  honored 
senator,  who,  for  more  than  thirty  years  has 
zealously  and  perseveringly  contended  for  the 
trade  of  the  Pacific,  China,  and  the  Indies,  and 
now  projects  a  monument  to  his  foresight  and 
wisdom,  in  putting  in  motion  this  grand  thor- 
oughfare for  nations. 

We  sincerely  congratulate  you  on  the  auspi- 
ciousness  that  awaits  our  City  of  the  West  and 
its  benefactors. 

With  very  great  respect  we  are,  Madam, 
Your  most  obedient  Servants, 

JOHN  M.  KRUM, 
GEORGE  K.  McGuNNEGLE. 

It  is  observed  that  the  meeting  at  St.  Louis 
were  of  opinion  that  Colonel  Fremont  had,  at 
that  date,  (February  21,)  reached  California. 
They  little  knew  what  he  had  gone  through. 
The  disasters  of  the  expedition  are  best  shown  in 
the  following  letter.  It  was  written  in  the  free- 
dom of  domestic  affection  and  private  corre- 
spondence, but  may  be  presented  to  the  reader 


CARSON.  279 

with  propriety,  and  will  be   appreciated,  with 
deep  sensibility,  by  every  feeling  heart : — 

Taos,  New  Mexico,  January  27,  1849. 
MY  VERY  DEAR  WlFE  ! 

I  write  to  you  from  the  house  of  our  good 
friend  Carson.  This  morning  a  cup  of  chocolate 
was  brought  to  me,  while  yet  in  bed.  To  an 
overworn,  overworked,  much  fatigued,  and  starv- 
ing traveller,  these  little  luxuries  of  the  world 
offer  an  interest  which  in  your  comfortable  home 
it  is  not  possible  for  you  to  conceive.  While  in 
the  enjoyment  of  this  luxury,,  then,  I  pleased  my- 
self in  imagining  how  gratified  you  would  be  in 
picturing  me  here  in  Kit's  care,  whom  you  will 
fancy  constantly  occupied  and  constantly  uneasy 
in  endeavoring  to  make  me  comfortable.  How 
little  could  you  have  dreamed  of  this  while  he  was 
enjoying  the  pleasant  hospitality  of  your  father's 
house !  The  furthest  thing  then  from  your  mind 
was  that  he  would  ever  repay  it  to  me  here. 

But  I  have  now  the  unpleasant  task  of  telling 
you  how  I  came  here.  I  had  much  rather  write 
you  some  rambling  letters  in  unison  with  the 
repose  in  which  I  feel  inclined  to  indulge,  and 
talk  to  you  about  the  future  with  which  I  am 
already  busily  occupied  ;  about  my  arrangements 
for  getting  speedily  down  into  the  more  pleasant 
climate  of  the  lower  Del  Norte  and  rapidly 
through  into  California ;  and  my  plans  when  I 


280  LIFE   OF  FREMONT. 

get  there.  1  have  an  almost  invincible  repug- 
nance to  going  back  among  scenes  where  I  have 
endured  much  suffering,  and  for  all  the  incidents 
and  circumstances  of  which  I  feel  a  strong  aver- 
sion. But  as  clear  information  is  absolutely 
necessary  to  you,  and  to  your  father  more  partic- 
ularly still,  I  will  give  you  the  story  now  instead 
of  waiting  to  tell  it  to  you  in  California.  But  I 
write  in  the  great  hope  that  you  will  not  receive 
this  letter.  When  it  reaches  Washington  you 
may  be  on  your  way  to  California. 

Former  letters  have  made  you  acquainted 
with  our  journey  so  far  as  Bent's  Fort,  and  from 
report  you  will  have  heard  the  circumstances  of 
our  departure  from  the  Upper  Pueblo  of  the 
Arkansas.  We  left  that  place  about  the  25th 
of  November,  with  upwards  of  a  hundred  good 
mules  and  one  hundred  and  thirty  bushels  of 
shelled  corn,  intended  to  support  our  animals 
across  the  snow  of  the  high  mountains,  and 
down  to  the  lower  parts  of  the  Grand  River 
tributaries,  where  usually  the  snow  forms  no  ob- 
stacle to  winter  travelling.  At  the  Pueblo,  I  had 
engaged  as  a  guide  an  old  trapper  well  known 
as  "  Bill  Williams,"  and  who  had  spent  some 
twenty-five  years  of  his  life  in  trapping  various 
parts  of  the  Rocky  Mountains.  The  error  of 
our  journey  was  committed  in  engaging  this 
man.  He  proved  never  to  have  in  the  least 
known,  or  entirely  to  have  forgotten,  the  whole 


DIFFICULTIES    OF   THE   ROUTE.  281 

region  of  country  through  which  we  were  to 
pass.  We  occupied  more  than  half  a  month  in 
making  the  journey  of  a  few  days,  blundering  a 
tortuous  way  through  deep  snow  which  already 
began  to  choke  up  the  passes,  for  which  we  were 
obliged  to  waste  time  in  searching.  About  the 
llth  December  we  found  ourselves  at  the  north 
of  the  Del  Norte  Canon,  where  that  river  issues 
from  the  St.  John's  Mountain,  one  of  the  highest, 
most  rugged  and  impracticable  of  all  the  Rocky 
Mountain  ranges,  inaccessible  to  trappers  and 
hunters  even  in  the  summer  time.  Across  the 
point  of  this  elevated  range  our  guide  conducted 
us,  and  having  still  great  confidence  in  his 
knowledge,  we  pressed  onwards  with  fatal  reso- 
lution. Even  along  the  river  bottoms  the  snow 
was  already  belly  deep  for  the  mules,  frequently 
snowing  in  the  valley  and  almost  constantly  in 
the  mountains.  The  cold  was  extraordinary ; 
at  the  warmest  hours  of  the  day  (between  one 
and  two)  the  thermometer  (Fahrenheit)  standing 
in  the  shade  of  only  a  tree  trunk  at  zero ;  the 
day  sunshiny,  with  a  moderate  breeze.  We 
pressed  up  towards  the  summit,  the  snow 
deepening ;  and  in  four  or  five  days  reached  the 
naked  ridges  which  lie  above  the  timbered 
country,  and  which  form  the  dividing  grounds 
between  the  waters  of  the  Atlantic  and  Pacific 
oceans.  Along  these  naked  ridges,  it  storms 
nearly  all  winter,  and  the  winds  sweep  across 
24* 


282  LIFE    OF    FREMONT. 

them  with  remorseless  fury.  On  our  first  attempt 
to  cross  we  encountered  a  pouderie,  (dry  snow 
driven  thick  through  the  air  by  violent  wind,  and 
in  which  objects  are  visible  only  at  a  short  dis- 
tance,) and  were  driven  back,  having  some  10  or 
12  men  variously  frozen,  face,  hands,  or  feet. 
The  guide  came  nigh  being  frozen  to  death  here, 
and  dead  mules  were  already  lying  about  the 
fires.  Meantime,  it  snowed  steadily.  The  next 
day  we  made  mauls,  and  beating  a  road  or 
trench  through  the  snow  crossed  the  crest  in 
defiance  of  the  pouderie,  and  encamped  im- 
mediately below  in  the  edge  of  the  timber.  The 
trail  showed  as  if  a  defeated  party  had  passed 
by  ;  pack-saddles  and  packs,  scattered  articles  of 
clothing,  and  dead  mules  strewed  along.  A 
continuance  of  stormy  weather  paralyzed  all 
movement.  We  were  encamped  somewhere 
about  12,000  feet  above  the  sea.  Westward, 
the  country  was  buried  in  deep  snow.  It  was 
impossible  to  advance  and  to  turn  back  was 
equally  impracticable.  We  were  overtaken  by 
sudden  and  inevitable  ruin.  It  so  happened  that 
the  only  places  where  any  grass  could  be  had 
were  the  extreme  summit  of  the  ridges,  where 
the  sweeping  winds  kept  the  rocky  ground  bare 
and  the  snow  could  not  lie.  Below  these,  ani- 
mals could  not  get  about,  the  snow  being  deep 
enough  to  bury  them.  Here,  therefore,  in  the 
full  violence  of  the  storms  we  were  obliged  to 


DISASTERS    OF   THE   ROUTE.  283 

keep  our  animals.  They  could  not  be  moved 
either  way.  It  was  instantly  apparent  that  we 
should  lose  every  animal. 

I  determined  to  recross  the  mountain  more 
towards  the  open  country,  and  haul,  or  pack  the 
baggage  (by  men)  down  to  the  Del  Norte. 
With  great  labor  the  baggage  was  transported 
across  the  crest  to  the  head  springs  of  a  little 
stream  leading  to  the  main  river.  A  few  days 
were  sufficient  to  destroy  our  fine  band  of  mules. 
They  generally  kept  huddled  together,  and  as 
they  froze,  one  would  be  seen  to  tumble  down 
and  the  snow  would  cover  him  ;  sometimes  they 
would  break  off  and  rush  down  towards  the 
timber  until  they  were  stopped  by  the  deep 
snow,  \vhere  they  were  soon  hidden  by  the 
pouderie.  The  courage  of  the  men  failed  fast ; 
in  fact,  I  have  never  seen  men  so  soon  discour- 
aged by  misfortune  as  we  were  on  this  occa- 
sion ;  but,  as  you  know,  the  party  was  not 
constituted  like  the  former  ones.  But  among 
those  who  deserve  to  be  honorably  mentioned, 
and  who  behaved  like  what  they  were, — men  of 
the  old  exploring  party, — were  Godey,  King, 
and  Taplin ;  and  first  of  all  Godey.  In  this 
situation,  I  determined  to  send  in  a  party  to  the 
Spanish  settlements  of  New  Mexico  for  provis- 
ions and  mules  to  transport  our  baggage  to 
Taos.  With  economy,  and  after  we  should 
leave  the  mules,  we  had  not  two  weeks  provis- 


284  LIFE   OF   FREMONT. 

ions  in  the  camp.  These  consisted  of  a  store 
which  I  had  reserved  for  a  hard  day,  macaroni 
and  bacon.  From  among  the  volunteers  I  chose 
King,  Brackenridge,  Creutzfeldt,  and  the  guide 
Williams ;  the  party  under  the  command  of 
King.  In  case  of  the  least  delay  at  the  settle- 
ments, he  was  to  send  me  an  express.  In  the 
mean  time,  we  were  to  occupy  ourselves  in  re- 
moving the  baggage  and  equipage  down  to  the 
Del  Norte,  which  we  reached  with  our  baggage 
in  a  few  days  after  their  departure  (which  was 
the  day  after  Christmas.)  Like  many  a  Christ- 
mas for  years  back,  mine  was  spent  on  the 
summit  of  a  wintry  mountain,  my  heart  filled 
with  gloomy  and  anxious  thoughts,  with  none 
of  the  merry  faces  and  pleasant  luxuries  that 
belong  to  that  happy  time.  You  may  be  sure 
we  contrasted  much  this  with  the  last  at  Wash- 
ington, and  speculated  much  on  your  doings, 
and  made  many  warm  wishes  for  your  happi- 
ness. Could  you  have  looked  into  Agrippa's 
glass  for  a  few  moments  only !  You  remember 
the  volumes  of  Blackstone  which  I  took  from 
your  father's  library  when  we  were  overlooking 
it  at  our  friend  Brant's  ?  They  made  my 
Christmas  amusements.  I  read  them  to  pass 
the  heavy  time  and  forget  what  was  around  me. 
Certainly  you  may  suppose  that  my  first  law 
lessons  will  be  well  remembered.  Day  after 
day  passed  by  and  no  news  from  our  express 


GOES  BACK  FOR  RELIEF.         285 

party.  Snow  continued  to  fall  almost  inces- 
santly on  the  mountain.  The  spirits  of  the 
camp  grew  lower.  Proue  laid  down  in  the  trail 
and  froze  to  death.  In  a  sunshiny  day,  and 
having  with  him  means  to  make  a  fire,  he  threw 
his  blankets  down  in  the  trail  and  laid  there  till 
he  froze  to  death.  After  sixteen  days  had 
elapsed  from  King's  departure,  I  became  so  un- 
easy at  the  delay,  that  I  decided  to  wait  no 
longer.  I  was  aware  that  our  troops  had  been 
engaged  in  hostilities  with  the  Spanish  Utahs 
and  Apaches,  who  range  in  the  North  River 
valley,  and  became  fearful  that  they  (King's 
party)  had  been  cut  off  by  these  Indians ;  I 
could  imagine  no  other  accident.  Leaving  the 
camp  employed  with  the  baggage  and  in  charge 
of  Mr.  Vincenthaler,  I  started  down  the  river 
with  a  small  party  consisting  of  Godey,  (with  his 
young  nephew,)  Mr.  Preuss  and  Saunders.  We 
carried  our  arms  and  provision  for  two  or  three 
days.  In  the  camp  the  messes  had  provisions 
for  two  or  three  meals,  more  or  less  ;  and  about 
five  pounds  of  sugar  to  each  man.  Failing  to 
meet  King,  my  intention  was  to  make  the  Red 
River  settlement,  about  twenty-five  miles  north 
of  Taos,  and  send  back  the  speediest  relief  pos- 
sible. My  instructions  to  the  camp  were,  that 
if  they  did  not  hear  from  me  within  a  stated 
time,  they  were  to  follow  down  the  Del  Norte. 
"  On  the  second  day  after  leaving  camp  we 


286  LIFE   OP  FREMONT. 

came  upon  a  fresh  trail  of  Indians, — two  lodges, 
with  a  considerable  number  of  animals.  This 
did  not  lessen  our  uneasiness  for  our  people. 
As  their  trail  when  we  met  it  turned  and  went 
down  the  river,  we  followed  it.  On  the  fifth 
day  we  surprised  an  Indian  on  the  ice  of  the 
river.  He  proved  to  be  a  Utah,  son  of  a  Grand 
River  chief  we  had  formerly  known,  and  behaved 
to  us  in  a  friendly  manner.  We  encamped  near 
them  at  night.  By  a  present  of  a  rifle,  my  two 
blankets,  and  other  promised,  rewards  when  we 
should  get  in,  I  prevailed  upon  this  Indian  to  go 
with  us  as  a  guide  to  the  Red  River  settlement, 
and  take  with  him  four  of  his  horses,  principally 
to  carry  our  little  baggage.  These  were  wretch- 
edly poor,  and  could  get  alo'ng  only  in  a  very 
slow  walk.  On  that  day  (the  sixth)  we  left  the 
lodges  late,  and  travelled  only  some  six  or  seven 
miles.  About  sunset  we  discovered  a  little 
smoke,  in  a  grove  of  timber  off  from  the  river, 
and  thinking  perhaps  it  might  be  our  express 
party  on  its  return,  we  went  to  see.  This  was 
the  twenty-second  day  since  they  had  left  us, 
and  the  sixth  since  we  had  left  the  camp. 
We  found  them, — three  of  them, — Creutzfeldt, 
Brackenridge,  and  Williams, — the  most  miser- 
able objects  I  have  ever  seen.  I  did  not  recog- 
nize Creutzfeldt's  features  when  Brackenridge 
brought  him  up  to  me  and  mentioned  his  name. 
They  had  been  starving.  King  had  starved  to 


RELIEF    SENT   ON.  287 

death  a  few  days  before.  His  remains  were 
some  six  or  eight  miles  above,  near  the  river. 
By  aid  of  the  horses,  we  carried  these  three  with 
us  to  Red  River  settlement,  which  we  reached 
(Jan.  20)  on  the  tenth  evening  after  leaving  our 
camp  in  the  mountains,  having  travelled  through 
snow  and  on  foot  one  hundred  and  sixty  miles. 
I  look  upon  the  anxiety  which  induced  me  to 
set  out  from  the  camp  as  an  inspiration.  Had 
I  remained  there  waiting  the  party  which  had 
been  sent  in,  every  man  of  us  would  probably 
have  perished. 

The  morning  after  reaching  the  Red  River 
town,  Godey  and  myself  rode  on  to  the  Rio 
Hondo  and  Taos,  in  search  of  animals  and  sup- 
plies, and  on  the  second  evening  after  that  on 
which  we  had  reached  Red  River,  Godey  had 
returned  to  that  place  with  about  thirty  animals, 
provisions,  and  four  Mexicans,  with  which  he 
set  out  for  the  camp  on  the  following  morning. 
On  the  road  he  received  eight  or  ten  others, 
which  were  turned  over  to  him  by  the  orders  of 
Major  Beale,  the  commanding  officer  of  this 
northern  district  of  New  Mexico.  I  expect  that 
Godey  will  reach  this  place  with  the  party  on 
Wednesday  evening,  the  31st.  From  Major 
Beale  I  received  the  offer  of  every  aid  in  his 
power,  and  such  actual  assistance  as  he  was 
able  to  render.  Some  horses  which  he  had  just 
recovered  from  the  Utahs  were  loaned  to  me, 


288  LIFE    OF   FKEMONT. 

and  he  supplied  me  from  the  commissary's  de- 
partment with  provisions  which  I  could  have 
had  nowhere  else.  I  find  myself  in  the  midst 
•of  friends.  With  Carson  is  living  Owens,  and 
Maxwell  is,  at  his  father-in-law's,  doing  a  very 
prosperous  business  as  a  merchant  and  contrac- 
tor for  the  troops. 

Evening.  Mr.  St.  Vrain  and  Aubrey,  who 
have  just  arrived  from  Santa  Fe,  called  to  see 
me.  I  had  the  pleasure  to  learn  that  Mr.  St. 
Vrain  sets  out  from  Santa  Fe  on  the  15th  of 
February,  for  St.  Louis,  so  that  by  him  I  have 
an  early  and  certain  opportunity  of  sending  you 
my  letters.  Beale  left  Santa  Fe  on  his  journey 
to  California  on  the  9th  of  this  month.  He 
probably  carried  on  with  him  any  letters  which 
might  have  been  at  Santa  Fe  for  me.  I  shall 
probably  reach  California  with  him  or  shortly 
after  him.  Say  to  your  father  that  these  are 
my  plans  for  the  future. 

At  the  beginning  of  February  (about  Satur- 
day) I  shall  set  out  for  California,  taking  the 
southern  route,  by  the  Rio  Abajo,  the  Paso  del 
Norte,  and  the  south  side  of  the  Gila,  entering 
California  at  the  Agua  Caliente,  thence  to  Los 
Angeles  and  immediately  north.  I  shall  break  up 
my  party  here  and  take  with  me  only  a  few  men. 
The  survey  has  been  uninterrupted  up  to  this 
point,  and  I  shall  carry  it  on  consecutively.  As 
soon  as  possible  after  reaching  California  I  will 


NEW   MEXICO.  289 

go  on  with  the  survey  of  the  coast  and  coast 
country.  Your  father  knows  that  this  is  an 
object  of  great  desire  with  me,  and  I  trust  it  is 
not  too  much  to  hope  that  he  may  obtain  the 
countenance  and  aid  of  the  President  (whoever 
he  may  be)  in  carrying  it  on  effectually  and 
rapidly  to  completion.  For  this  I  hope  ear- 
nestly. I  shall  then  be  enabled  to  draw  up  a 
map  and  report  on  the  whole  country,  agreeably 
to  our  previous  anticipations.  All  my  oilier 
plans  remain  entirely  unaltered.  I  shall  take 
immediate  steps  to  make  ourselves  a  good  home 
in  California,  and  to  have  a  place  ready  for  your 
reception,  which  I  anticipate  for  April.  My 
hopes  and  wishes  are  more  strongly  than  ever 
turned  that  way. 

Monday r,  29.  My  letter  now  assumes  a  jour- 
nal form.  No  news  yet  from  the  party, — a  great 
deal  of  falling  weather ;  rain  and  sleet  here,  and 
snow  in  the  mountains.  This  is  to  be  consid- 
ered a  poor  country ;  mountainous,  with  severe 
winters  and  but  little  arable  land.  To  the  United 
States  it  seems  to  me  to  offer  little  other  value 
than  the  right  of  way.  It  is  throughout  in- 
fested with  Indians,  with  whom  in  the  course 
of  the  present  year  the  United  States  will  be  at 
war,  as  well  as  in  the  Oregon  Territory.  To 
hold  this  country  will  occasion  the  government 
great  expense,  and,  certainly,  one  can  see  no 
source  of  profit  or  advantage  in  it.  An  addi- 


290  LIFE    OP   FKEMONT. 

tional  regiment  will  be  required  for  special  service 
here. 

Mr.  St.  Vrain  dined  with  us  to-day.  Owens 
goes  to  Missouri  in  April  to  get  married,  and 
thence  by  water  to  California.  Carson  is  very 
anxious  to  go  there  with  me  now,  and  afterwards 
remove  his  family  thither,  but  he  cannot  decide 
to  break  off  from  Maxwell  and  family  con- 
nections. 

I  am  anxiously  waiting  to  hear  from  my 
party,  in  .much  uncertainty  as  to  their  fate.  My 
presence  kept  them  together  and  quiet,  my 
absence  may  have  had  a  bad  effect.  When  we 
overtook  King's  starving  party,  Brackemidge 
said  that  he  "  would  rather  have  seen  me  than 
his  father."  He  felt  himself  safe. 

Taos,  New  Mexico,  February  6,  1849. 

After  a  long  delay,  which  had  wearied  me 
to  the  point  of  resolving  to  set  out  again  myself, 
tidings  have  at  last  reached  me  from  my  ill- 
fated  party.  Mr.  Haler  came  in  last  night, 
having,  the  night  before,  reached  Red  River  set- 
tlement, with  some  three  or  four  others.  Includ- 
ing Mr.  King  and  Proue,  we  have  lost  eleven 
of  our  party.  Occurrences,  after  I  left  them, 
are  briefly  these,  so  far  as  they  are  within  Haler's 
knowledge.  I  say  briefly,  my  dear  Jessie,  be- 
cause now  I  am  unwilling  to  force  myself  to 
dwell  upon  particulars.  I  wish  for  a  time  to 


GREAT   SUFFERINGS.  291 

shut  out  these  things  from  my  mind,  to  leave 
this  country,  and  all  thoughts  and  all  things 
connected  with  recent  events,  which  have  been 
so  signally  disastrous  as  absolutely  to  astonish 
me  with  a  persistence  of  misfortune,  which  no 
precaution  has  been  adequate  on  my  part  to 
avert. 

You  will  remember  that  I  had  left  the  camp 
with  occupation  sufficient  to  employ  them  for 
three  or  four  days,  after  which  they  were  to 
follow  me  down  the  river.  Within  that  time  I 
had  expected  the  relief  from  King,  if  it  was  to 
come  at  all. 

They  remained  where  I  had  left  them  seven 
days,  and  then  started  down  thfe  river.  Manuel 
— you  will  remember  Manuel,  the  Cosumne  In- 
dian— gave  way  to  a  feeling  of  despair  after  they 
had  travelled  about  two  miles,  begged  Haler  to 
shoot  him,  and  then  turned  and  made  his  way 
back  to  the  camp ;  intending  to  die  there,  as  he 
doubtless  soon  did.  They  followed  our  trail 
down  the  river, — twenty-two  men  they  were  in 
all.  About  ten  miles  below  the  camp,  Wise 
gave  out,  threw  away  his  gun  and  blanket,  and 
a  few  hundred  yards  further  fell  over  into  the 
snow  and  died.  Two  Indian  boys,  young  men, 
countrymen  of  Manuel,  were  behind.  They 
rolled  up  Wise  in  his  blanket  and  buried  him 
in  the  snow  on  the  river  bank.  No  more  died 
that  day, — none  the  next.  Carver  raved  during 


292  LIFE   OF   FREMONT. 

the  night,  his  imagination  wholly  occupied  with 
images  of  many  things  which  he  fancied  himself 
eating.  In  the  morning,  he  wandered  off  .from 
the  party,  and  probably  soon  died.  They  did 
not  see  him  again.  Sorel  on  this  day  gave 
out  and  laid  down  to  die.  They  built  him  a 
fire,  and  Morin,  who  was  in  a  dying  condition, 
and  snow-blind,  remained.  These  two  did  not 
probably  last  till  the  next  morning.  That  even- 
ing, I  think,  Hubbard  killed  a  deer.  They 
travelled  on,  getting  here  and  there  a  grouse, 
but  probably  nothing  else,  the  snow  having 
frightened  off  the  game.  Things  were  des- 
perate, and  brought  Haler  to  the  determination 
of  breaking  up  the  party,  in  order  to  prevent 
them  from  living  upon  each  other.  He  told 
them  "that  he  had  done  all  he  could  for  them, 
that  they  had  no  other  hope  remaining  than  the 
expected  relief,  and  that  their  best  plan  was  to 
scatter  and  make  the  best  of  their  way  in  small 
parties  down  the  river.  That,  for  his  part,  if  he 
was  to  be  eaten,  he  would,  at  all  events,  be 
found  travelling  when  he  did  die."  They  ac- 
cordingly separated.  With  Mr.  Haler  continued 
five  others  and  the  two  Indian  boys.  Rohrer  now 
became  very  despondent ;  Haler  encouraged  him 
by  recalling  to  mind  his  family,  and  urged  him 
to  hold  out  a  little  longer.  On  this  day  he  fell 
behind,  but  promised  to  overtake  them  at  even- 
ing, Haler,  Scott,  Hubbard,  and  Martin  agreed 


GKEAT   SUFFERINGS.  293 

that  if  any  one  of  them  should  give  out,  the 
others  were  not  to  wait  for  him.  to  die,  but  build 
a  fire  for  him  and  push  on.  At  night  Kern's 
mess  encamped  a  few  hundred  yards  from 
Haler's,  with  the  intention,  according  to  Taplin, 
to  remain  where  they  were  until  the  relief 
should  come,  and  in  the  mean  time  to  live  upon 
those  who  had  died,  and  upon  the  weaker  ones 
as  they  should  die.  With  the  three  Kerns  were 
Cathcart,  Andrews,  McKie,  Stepperfeldt,  and 
Taplin. 

Ferguson  and  Beadle  had  remained  together 
behind.  In  the  evening  Rohrer  came  up  and 
remained  with  Kern's  mess.  Mr.  Haler  learnt 
afterwards  from  that  mess  that  Rohrer  and 
Andrews  wandered  off  the  next  day  and  died. 
They  say  they  saw  their  bodies.  In  the  morning 
Haler's  party  continued  on.  After  a  few  hours 
Hubbard  gave  out.  They  built  him  a  fire, 
gathered  him  some  wood,  and  left  him,  without, 
as  Haler  says,  turning  their  heads  to  look  at 
him,  as  they  went  off.  About  two  miles  further, 
Scott — you  remember  Scott,  who  used  to  shoot 
birds  for  you  at  the  frontier — gave  out.  They 
did  the  same  for  him  as  for  Hubbard,  and  con- 
tinued on.  In  the  afternoon  the  Indian  boys 
went  ahead,  and  before  nightfall  met  Godey 
with  the  relief.  Haler  heard  and  knew  the  guns 
which  he  fired  for  him  at  night,  and,  starting 
early  in  the  morning,  soon  met  him.  I  hear 


294  LIFE   OF  FREMONT. 

that  they  all  cried  together  like  children.  Haler 
turned  back  with  Goedy,  and  went  with  him  to 
where  they  had  left  Scott.  He  was  still  alive 
and  was  saved.  Hubbard  was  dead, — still  warm. 
From  the  Kern's  mess  they  learned  the  death 
of  Andrews  and  Rohrer,  and  a  little  above  met 
Ferguson,  who  told  them  that  Beadle  had  died 
the  night  before. 

Godey  continued  on  with  a  few  new  Mex- 
icans and  pack  mules  to  bring  down  the  bag- 
gage from  the  camp.  Haler,  with  Martin  and 
Bacon,  on  foot,  and  bringing  Scott  on  horse- 
back, have  first  arrived  at  the  Red  River  settle- 
ment. Provisions,  and  horses  for  them  to  ride, 
were  left  with  the  others,  who  preferred  to  rest 
on  the  river  until  Godey  came  back.  At  the 
latest,  they  should  all  have  reached  Red  River 
settlement  last  night,  and  ought  all  to  be  here 
this  evening.  When  Godey  arrives  I  shall 
know  from  him  all  the  circumstances  sufficiently 
in  detail  to  enable  me  to  understand  clearly 
every  thing.  But  it  will  not  be  necessary  to  tell 
you  any  thing  further.  It  has  been  sufficient 
pain  for  you  to  read  what  I  have  already 
written. 

As  I  told  you,  I  shall  break  up  my  party  here. 
I  have  engaged  a  Spaniard  to  furnish  mules  to 
take  my  little  party  with  our  baggage,  as 
far  down  the  Del  Norte*  as  Albuquerque.  To- 
morrow a  friend  sets  out  to  purchase  me  a  few 


GREAT  SUFFERINGS.  295 

mules,  with  which  he  is  to  meet  me  at  Albu- 
querque, and  thence  I  continue  the  journey  on 
my  own  animals.  My  road  will  take  me  down 
the  Del  Nort6,  about  160  miles  below  Albu- 
querque, and  then  passes  between  this  river 
and  the  heads  of  the  Gila,  to  a  little  Mexican 
town  called  I  think  Tusson.  Thence  to  the 
mouth  of  the  Gila,  and  across  the  Colorado, 
direct  to  Agua  Caliente,  into  California.  I 
intend  to  make  the  journey  rapidly,  and  about 
the  middle  of  March ;  hope  for  the  great  plea- 
sure of  hearing  from  home.  I  look  for  a  large 
supply  of  newspapers  and  documents,  more 
perhaps  because  these  things  have  a  home  look 
about  them  than  on  their  own  account.  When 
I  think  of  you  ah1,  I  feel  a  warm  glow  at  my 
heart,  which  renovates  it  like  a  good  medicine, 
and  I  forget  painful  feelings  in  strong  hope  for 
the  future.  We  shah1  yet,  dearest  wife,  enjoy 
quiet  and  happiness  together — these  are  nearly 
one  and  the  same  to  me  now.  I  make  fre- 
quently pleasant  pictures  of  the  happy  home  we 
are  to  have,  and  oftenest  and  among  the  plea- 
santest  of  all  I  see,  our  library  with  its  bright 
fire  in  the  rainy  stormy  days,  and  the  large 
windows  looking  out  upon  the  sea  in  the  bright 
weather.  I  have  it  all  planned  in  my  own 
mind.  It  is  getting  late  now,  La  Harpe  says 
that  there  are  two  gods  which  are  very  dear 
to  us,  Hope  and  Sleep.  My  homage  shall 


296  LIFE   OF   FREMONT. 

be  equally  divided  between  them ;  both  make 
the  time  pass  lightly  until  I  see  you,  and  so  I 
go  now  to  pay  a  willing  tribute  to  the  one  with 
my  heart  full  of  the  other.  Good-night. 

Socorro,  Rio  del  Norte,  February  24,  1849. 

MY  DEAR  SIR  :  I  write  a  line  from  this 
place  in  the  hope  that  by  way  of  Chihuahua 
and  Vera  Cruz,  it  will  reach  you  sooner  than 
letters  by  the  direct  mail  from  Santa  Fe,  and  so 
be  in  advance  of  exaggerated  reports  of  the 
events  which  have  delayed  my  journey,  and 
turned  me  in  this  direction.  Letters  which  I 
have  forwarded  by  Mr.  St.  Vrain,  will  inform 
you  that  we  were  overtaken,  and  surrounded 
by  deep  and  impracticable  snows  in  the  Rocky 
Mountains  at  the  head  of  the  Del  Norte.  We  lost 
all  our  animals  and  ten.  men,  the  mules  frozen, 
and  the  men  starved  to  death,  Proue  only 
excepted.  He  was  frozen.  The  miscarriage  of 
an  express  party,  sent  in  under  Mr.  King,  was  a 
secondary  cause  of  our  greatest  calamity  in  the 
loss  of  our  men.  In  six  days  after  leaving  my 
camp  in  the  mountains,  I  overtook  his  party, 
they  having  been  out  twenty-two  days,  and 
King  having  been  starved  to  death.  In  four 
days  afterwards  I  reached  the  settlements,  in 
time  to  save  many,  but  too  late  to  rescue 
all  the  men.  Relief  wa|  immediately  sent 
back,  but  did  not  meet  them  in  time  to  save 


KINDNESS   OF   OFFICERS.  297 

all.  An  attempt,  made  with  fresh  animals,  to 
get  our  baggage  out  of  the  snow,  failed  entirely, 
resulting  only  in  the  loss  of  ten  or  twelve  animals 
more.  On  the  main  river  bottoms  at  the  foot  of 
the  mountains,  the  snow  was  five  feet  deep  and 
in  the  mountains  impassable.  Camp  furniture 
of  all  descriptions,  saddles,  pack-saddles,  &c., 
clothes,  money,  &c.,  all  lost.  I  had  the  good 
fortune  to  recover  one  of  my  baggage  trunks, 
which.  Jessie  will  remember  to  have  packed  for 
me,  and  so  saved  some  clothes,  &c.  My  instru- 
ments, which  I  always  carry  with  me,  were  in 
greater  part  saved. 

The  officers  of  the  army  stationed  in  the 
country  have  been  uniformly  prompt  and  liberal 
in  their  attentions  to  me,  offering  me  all  the 
assistance  in  their  power.  In  this  country, 
where  supplies  are  scarce  and  extravagantly 
high,  this  assistance  was  of  great  value  to  me 
in  prosecuting  my  journey.  Among  those 
whom  I  ought  particularly  to  mention  is  Major 
Beale,  who  is  in  command  of  the  Northern  Dis- 
trict, Capt.  Judd,  Lt.  Thomas,  Dr.  Webb,  and 
Capt.  Buford.  I  mention  their  names  partic- 
ularly, knowing  that  you  will  take  pleasure  in 
reciprocating  it  to  them.  Colonel  Washington 
desired  me  to  call  on  him  without  reserve  for 
any  thing  at  his  command.  He  invited  me  to 
dine  with  him,  one  out  of  the  two  days  I  spent 
at  Santa  Fe,  and  dined  with  me  at  the  officers' 


298  LIFE   OF   FREMONT. 

quarters  on  the  other.  Major  Weightman  (of 
Washington,  son-in-law  of  Mr.  Cox,)  was  very 
friendly  in  his  attentions  to  me,  and  Capt.  Brent 
of  the  Quartermaster's  deputy,  gave  me  some 
most  effective  aid  in  my  equipment.  Among 
the  citizens  who  have  treated  me  with  some 
attention,  I  make  it  a  duty  to  recommend  to 
your  attention,  when  you  may  meet  him,  our 
fellow-citizen  of  St.  Louis,  Mr.  F.  X.  Aubry. 
You  will  remember  him  as  having  lately  made 
an  extraordinary  ride  from  Santa  Fe,  to  Indepen- 
dence. We  have  been  travelling  together  from 
Santa  Fe  to  this  place.  Among  other  acts  of 
kindness,  I  received  from  him  a  loan  of  $1000, 
to  purchase  animals  for  my  journey  to  Cali- 
fornia. 

I  reached  this  town  at  half-past  8  o'clock  this 
morning,  by  appointment  to  breakfast.  Capt. 
Buford,  who  commands  here,  received  me  with 
much  kindness,  and  I  am  staying  with  him. 
This  is  a  military  post,  and  with  the  exception 
of  a  little  village  or  two,  a  few  miles  below,  the 
last  settlement  we  see  until  reaching  Tusson, 
even  should  we  pass  by  that  route.  We  go  on 
this  afternoon,  and  perhaps  reach  California  in 
twenty-five  days.  The  weather  here  is  warm, 
and  the  people  engaged  in  opening  the  ground 
for  sowing.  I  will  write  a  brief  note  to  Jessie, 
and  conclude  this,  as  I  shall  be  much  pressed 


MARIPOSA   PURCHASE.  299 

to  get  through  the  business  set  apart  for  this 
day.  "  Very  affectionately, 

"  J.  C.  FREMONT. 

"  HON.    THOMAS    H.    BENTON,    Washington 

City" 

The  allusions,  in  the  foregoing  letters,  to  a 
plan  of  life  he  had  formed  for  the  future,  in- 
dicate that  he  had  designed  to  spend  the  residue 
of  his  days  in  retirement,  and  in  California. 
Before  this  time  he  had  entrusted  $3,000,  to  an 
agent  to  buy  a  farm  or  ranch  for  him  in  that 
country,  suggesting  a  certain  tract  which  he  was 
particularly  desirous  of  obtaining.  As  that  was 
not  available,  the  agent  purchased  another,  since 
known  as  the  Mariposa  (butterfly)  grant.  It 
was  thought  by  most  persons,  at  that  time,  to 
have  been  an  undesirable  purchase,  as  it  was 
in  the  wilderness,  far  removed  from  settlements, 
and  infested  by  Chauchiles  Indians,  a  very 
savage,  warlike,  and  hostile  tribe.  The  first 
night  Col.  Fremont  spent  on  the  tract,  when  he 
first  visited  it,  six  men,  belonging  to  a  party 
that  had  camped  in  the  neighborhood,  were 
killed  by  the  Indians,  and  he  never  went  there 
without  having  a  fight  with  them.  For  these 
reasons  it  was  not  a  very  eligible  location  for  a 
farm,  although  comprising  considerable  land  in 
itself  well  adapted  for  agricultural  purposes. 
His  plan  was  to  use  it  as  a  grazing  farm ;  and 


800  LIFE   OF   FREMONT. 

the  favorite  wish  and  design  of  his  heart  was  to 
collect  upon  it  the  faithful  and  brave  com- 
panions of  his  exploration,  the  men  whose 
friendship  and  worth  had  been  proved  in  so 
many  joint  perils  and  sufferings,  and  there 
dwell  in  their  midst,  surrounded  by  a  colony 
that  would  be  as  one  family.  With  them 
around  him,  there  would  have  been  nothing 
to  fear  from  Chauchiles  or  any  other  Indians. 
In  the  prosecution  of  this  cherished  purpose 
he  had  purchased,  and  sent  round  the  cape,  a 
large  supply  of  farming  tools  and  agricultural 
implements  of  every  kind.  But  the  beautiful 
vision  was  dispersed  by  the  discovery  of  gold, 
which  threw  farming  projects  out  of  the  ques- 
tion altogether. 

On  the  25th  of  June,  1849,  President  Taylor 
appointed  him  commissioner  for  running  the 
boundary  line  between  the  United  States  and 
the  Republic  of  Mexico.  He  never  entered  on 
the  duties  of  that  appointment.  In  the  mean 
while,  under  the  auspices,  and  with  the  encour- 
agement of  that  truly  patriotic  and  enlightened 
chief  magistrate,  the  people  of  California  took 
the  usual  steps  to  form  a  constitution.  Col. 
Fremont  exerted  his  whole  influence  to  secure 
that  portion  of  the  continent  to  free  labor. 
The  great  point  was  gained.  And  he  was 
elected  one  of  the  first  senators  of  the  State  of 
California  in  the  congress  of  the  United  States. 


CHAPTER   VIII. 

A    SENATOR    OF    THE    UNITED    STATES. 

THE  State  of  California  was  admitted  into 
the  Union  on  the  9th  of  September,  1850.  The 
next  day,  her  senators  elect,  John  C.  Fremont 
and  William  M.  Gwin,  after  a  last  desperate 
effort  to  prevent  it,  were  allowed  to  take  their 
seats,  the  former  being  introduced  to  the  senate 
by  Mr.  Barnwell  of  South  Carolina.  Fremont's 
name  had  been  made  familiar  to  the  ears  of 
senators,  particularly  at  that  session,  by  the 
extent  to  which  California  occupied  their  dis- 
cussions. In  reference  to  that  'country,  as  both 
conqueror  and  explorer,  he  was  the  authority  on 
which  they  all  relied.  In  a  speech  on  the  com- 
promise bills,  delivered  in  the  Senate  on  the  25th 
of  June,  1850,  Mr.  Soule,  arguing  a  certain 
point  relating  to  California,  uses  these  words  : 
"  This  opinion  is'  fully  sustained  by  the  highest 
authority  which  I  can  summon  before  the 
Senate — that  of  the  learned,  enterprising,  and 
indefatigable  officer,  to  whose  labors  the  United 
States  and  the  world  are  so  much  indebted." 
26  (  301  ) 


302  LIFE   OF   FREMONT. 

Such  was  then  the  universal  estimate  through- 
out the  country  of  the  value  of  the  public 
services  of  Col.  Fremont. 

As  is  the  practice  of  the  Senate,  in  the  case  of. 
members  entering  the  body  as  the  first  repre- 
sentatives of  new  States,  Fremont  and  Gwin 
drew  lots  for  the  classes  to  which  they  were  to 
belong.  The  term  of  one  third  of  the  senators 
expires  on  each  alternate  4th  March.  Col.  Fre- 
mont drew  the  shortest  term,  expiring  with  the 
31st  congress  on  the  4th  of  March,  1851.  Mr. 
Gwin  drew  the  longest  term,  continuing  to  the 
close  of  the  33d  congress  on  the  4th  of  March; 
1855.  As  Fremont  was  unable  to  attend  the 
short  term  of  that  congress,  his  whole  senatorial 
service  consisted  of  what  remained  of  the  long 
session,  which  terminated  September  30th — that 
is,  twenty-one  days. 

In  that  short  time  he  accomplished  an  extraor- 
dinary amount  of  work.  Immediately,  upon 
taking  his  seat,  indeed,  on  that  very  day,  he 
submitted  a  resolution  describing  seventeen  post 
routes,  covering  the  whole  territory  of  California? 
and  gave  notice  of  a  variety  of  bills,  which  pro- 
vided for  the  extension  over  that  State  of  all  the 
functions  of  the  Government,  in  its  several  de- 
partments. These  bills  were  designed  to  com- 
plete- the  organization  of  the  whole  system  of 
society.  They  legalized  all  its  interests,  pur- 
suits, privileges,  and  securities,  and  brought  them 


CALIFORNIA    BILLS.  303 

within  the  sphere  and  under  the  protection  of 
judicial  tribunals.  The  titles  of  these  bills, 
which  were,  in  brief,  as  follows,  show  the  ground 
they  cover : — 

1.  A  bill  to  provide  for  the  recording  of  land 
titles  in  California. 

2.  A  bill  to   provide   for   the    survey  of  the 
public  lands  of  California. 

3.  A  bill  to  provide  for  the  erection  of  land- 
offices  in  California. 

4.  A  bill   to   provide   for   the  settlement   of 
private  land  claims  in  California. 

5.  A  bill  to  grant  donations  of  land  to  settlers 
before  the  session  of  the  country  to  the   United 
States,  and  preemption  rights  to  all  subsequent 
settlers. 

6.  A  bill  to  regulate  the  working  of  mines  in 
California. 

7.  A  bill  to   extend   the   laws   and    judicial 
system  of  the   United   States  to   the   State  of 
California. 

8.  A  bill  to  refund  to  said  State  duties  col- 
lected at  San  Francisco  and  other  ports,  before 
the    custom-house   laws   were    extended  to  it. 

9.  A  bill  to  grant  said  State  public  lands  for 
purposes  of  education. 

10.  A  bill  to  grant  six  townships  for  a  uni- 
versity. 

11.  A  bill  to  grant  land  to  aid  in  constructing 
public  buildings. 


304  LIFE    OF   FREMONT. 

12.  A  bill  to  grant  land  for  asylums  for  the 
deaf  and  dumb,  for  the  blind  and  insane. 

13.  A  bill  to  relinquish  to  the  city  of  San 
Francisco    certain    public    grounds    no    longer 
needed  for  public  purposes. 

'  14.  A  bill  to  grant  to  the  State  of  California 
twelve  salt  springs,  with  a  section  of  ground 
around  each. 

15.  A  bill  to  grant  to  the  city  of  Monterey 
the  old  government  house  and  its  grounds. 

16.  A  bill  to  provide  for  opening  a  road  across 
the  continent. 

17.  A  bill  to  grant  land  for  internal  improve- 
ment. 

18.  A  bill  to  preserve  peace  among  the  Indian 
tribes,  by  providing  for  the  extinction  of  their 
titles  to  the  gold  districts. 

Col.  Fremont  confined  himself,  while  in  the 
Senate,  mainly  to  the  discussion  of  matters 
relating  to  California,  and  in  the  crowded  hurry 
and  complication  of  business  during  the  last 
weeks  of  a  summer  session,  abstained  from  long 
speeches.  In  only  one  or  two  instances  can  his 
remarks,  as  they  are  reported  in  the  Congres- 
sional Globe,  be  considered  as  approaching  that 
character.  He  was  relied  upon  to  explain  and 
illustrate  the  circumstances  and  wants  of  his 
own  State,  and  he  was  ever  prompt  to  do  it ; 
but  in  all  cases,  in  the  briefest  possible  terms. 
His  style  of  debate  was  compact,  clear,  easy, 


ROAD  FROM  THE  PACIFIC.         305 

and  natural.  He  was  thoroughly  equipped  with 
the  requisite  information,  and  presented  his 
views  sensibly  and  forcibly.  There  is  a  busi- 
ness aspect  about  his  remarks  that  distinguishes 
him  as  a  practical  statesman.  His  three  weeks' 
parliamentary  service  is  very  interesting,  as  an 
example  well  worthy  of  imitation. 

What  the  country  needs  in  the  halls  of  con- 
gress is  enlightened  a'nd  practical  men,  able  to 
speak,  but  only  speaking  to  the  matter  in  hand. 
Col.  Fremont's  course  in  the  Senate  presents 
a  fine  model  of  such  a  parliamentary  manner, 
and  is  in  keeping  with  the  modest  but  efficient 
character  he  has  exhibited  in  his  whole  public 
service. 

It  produced  a  striking  effect  at  the  time  in  the 
respectful  confidence  with  which  his  suggestions 
were  received,  and  in  the  success,  which,  so  far 
as  the  Senate  was  concerned,  generally  crowned 
his  efforts. 

Keeping  his  eye  on  the  main  purpose  to  which 
he  has  devoted  his  life, — that  of  cementing  and 
consolidating  the  union  and  intercourse  of  the 
Atlantic  and  Pacific  regions,— on  the  12th  of 
September  he  introduced  his  bill  to  provide  for 
the  opening. of  a  road  across  the  Sierra  Nevada, 
on  the  line  of  the  Rio  de  los  Americanos  and 
Carson's  River,  and  the  pass  at  their  head,  as 
the  commencement  of  opening  a  common  travel- 
ling road  between  the  present  western  settle- 

26* 


306  LIFE   OF   FREMONT. 

ments  of  the  United   States,  the   Territory  of 
Utah,  and  the  State  of  California. 

It  is  worthy' of  remark  that  the  railroad,  now 
in  process  of  extension  from  San  Francisco 
towards  the  mountains,-  and  which  is  designed 
to  be  continued,  at  last,  across  the  continent, 
follows  the  line  marked  out  in  Fremont's  bill. 
The  result  of  all  subsequent  experience  •  and 
consideration  has  sanctioned  his  judgment,  thus 
early  formed,  that  the  first  thing  to  be  done, — 
and  it  ought  to  be  done  without  further  delay, — 
is  to  establish  a  common  travelling  road  from 
California  to  the  head  of  steamboat  navigation 
on  the  Atlantic  side.  It  would  gradually  lead 
out  population  along  its  line.  A  series  of  mili- 
tary posts,  and  of  stopping-places  for  the  relay 
of  horses  and  change  of  coaches,  would  be  the 
points  around  which  settlements  would  be  made 
and  villages  rise.  Such  a  post-route  would  serve 
important  purposes  in  enabling  the  government 
to  control  its  Indian  affairs.  It  would  lead  to 
an  ultimate  determination  of  the  "best  course  for 
a  Pacific  railroad;  and,  in  the  mean  time,  would 
soon  command  a  business  in  the  transportation 
of  passengers  and  specie  that  would  well  sus- 
tain it.  The  fevers  and  other  perils  of  the  isth- 
mus, the  inconveniences  of  the  voyages,  through 
the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  and  on  the  Pacific  side,  in 
crowded  steamboats,  liable  to  shipwreck  and 
various  accidents,  would  be  avoided.  The 


GOLD   MIXES.  307 

knotty  and  threatening  diplomatic  difficulties 
connected  with  Central  America,  would  lose 
much  of  their  importance.  The  countless  thou- 
sands of  American  travellers  to  and  from  the 
Pacific. regions  would,  along  their  whole  route, 
be  in  the  bosom  and  under  the  protection  of 
their  own  country.  When  the  Government  is 
compelled,  by  public  opinion,  to  secure  this  great 
convenience  to  the  people,  to  Fremont  will  the 
honor  be  due,  and  the  thanks  given,  for  having, 
at  the  very  first,  proposed  and  labored  to  accom- 
plish it. 

On  the  14th  of  September  he  introduced  his 
bill,  making  temporary  provision  "  for  the  work- 
ing and  discovery  of  gold  mines  and  placers  in 
California,  and  for  preserving  order  in  the  gold- 
mine district ; "  remarking,  at  the  same  time,  that 
the  bill  was  drawn  up  with  a  great  deal  of  care 
and  deliberation;  that  he  had  looked  over  the 
Spanish  laws,  extending  through  the  space  of 
three  hundred  years  ;  that  he  had  endeavored  to 
embody  in  the  bill  the  essence  of  all  that  he 
considered  applicable,  and  had  adapted  the  pro- 
visions, as  much  as  possible,  to  our  institutions. 
In  the  course  of  ^  the  same  day  he  explained  and 
advocated  the  bill  in  extended  remarks,  citing 
the  legislation,  and  illustrating,  by  historical 
records,  the  policy  of  Spain  towards  Indians  in 
her  American  colonies,  from  1533  to  the  period 
of  their  independence. 


308  LIFE    OF   FREMONT. 

On  the  20th  September,  he  advocated  the 
establishment  of  liberal  judicial  salaries  in  Cali- 
fornia, combating  the  opinion  of  those  senators 
who  had  expressed  their  belief  that  the  high 
prices  ruling  there  were  temporary,  and  would 
soon  come  down  to  the  level  of  the  Atlantic 
States.  He  predicted  that  the  gold  would  be 
found  inexhaustible,  and  gave  his  reasons  at 
length  for  this  conviction,  in  a  detail  of  calcula- 
tions which  have  been  remarkably  confirmed  by 
subsequent  experience. 

Among  the  bills  introduced  into  the  Senate 
by  Col.  Fremont,  was  one,  it  will  be  perceived, 
to  ascertain  and  settle  private  land  claims  in  the 
State'of  California.  When  that  bill  came  up,  he 
presented  its  merits  in  these  few  words :  "  The 
bill  conforms  to  the  decisions  of  the  supreme 
court  and  to  the  usual  form,  with  but  two  excep- 
tions. The  first  is  the  provision  which  makes 
a  decision  in  favor  of  the  claimant  by  the  com- 
missioners, in  the  first  place,  final  against  the 
United  States.  The  other  provision  makes  a 
decision  in  the  district  court,  in  favor  of  the 
claimant,  also  final  against  the  United  States. 
These  provisions  were  introduced  for  two  rea- 
sons ;  first,  to  quiet  the  country,  and  to  contribute 
to  its  general  prosperity ;  but  a  further  reason 
is,  that  a  decision  of  their  own  law  officers,  their 
own  judges,  the  arbitrators  of  the  United  States, 
ought  to  be  final  against  the  United  States. 


CALIFORNIA    LAND    TITLES*.  309 

The  people  ought  not  to  be  kept  waiting  upon 
the  law,  for  years  perhaps,  for  an  adjudication. 
I  state  these  reasons,  and  leave  the  bill  to  the 
Senate,  to  stand  upon  its  own  merits." 

The  bill  failed,  in  the  hurry  of  the  closing 
session,  to  become  a  law.  The  experience  of 
California  has  amply  justified  the  views  which 
Colonel  Fremont  so  compactly  and  clearly  ex- 
pressed. A  country  acquired  by  conquest,  with 
land  titles  resting  upon  principles  and  practices 
of  foreign  law,  whose  people  were  unacquainted 
with  our  usages,  and  many  of  them  with  our 
language,  situated  on  the  opposite  side  of  the 
globe,  ought  to  have  had  justice  and  right 
carried  to  them  at  once.  Provision  ought  -to 
have  been  made  to  settle,  adjust,  and  determine 
all  questions  of  claim  and  title  without  unneces- 
sary delay.  Humble  and  feeble  private  parties 
ought  not  to  have  been  exposed  to  a  protracted 
and  exhausting  contest  with  a  powerful  govern- 
ment before  its  remote  ultimate  tribunals.  Fre- 
mont's few  words  condense  the  decisions  of 
common  sense. 

It  seems  that  some  political  opponent,  in  the 
recklessness  of  party  prejudice,  and  to  prevent 
his  reelection  to  the  .Senate,  threw  out  an  inti- 
mation that  Col.  Fremont  had  introduced-  this 
bill,  with  a  view  to  his  own  personal  interest  as 
the  purchaser  of  the  Mariposa  tract.  At  the 
next  session  of  the  Senate,  Col.  Fremont  not 


310  LIFE    OF   FREMONT. 

being  able  to  attend,  had  the  bill  altered  so  as 
to  except  his  title  from  its  operation,  as  appears 
by  the  following  extract  from  a  speech  of  Col. 
Benton,  delivered  Jan.  3,  1851.  After  saying 
that,  in  framing  his  bill,  "  Col.  Fremont  felt  that 
it  would  look  ostentatious  and  uncalled  for,  to 
volunteer  an  exception  against  himself,"  Col. 
Benton  proceeded  as  follows :  "  But,  now,  and 
after  what  has  happened,  he  no  longer  feels  any 
hesitation  on  that  account;  and,  in  conformity 
to  his  feelings,  I  now  make  an  exception  which 
will  take  his.  case  out  of  the  general  provisions 
of  the  bill,  and  subject  it  to  run  the  gauntlet  of 
all  the  courts  from  the  lowest  to  the  highest,  and 
from  the  shores  of  the  Pacific  Ocean  to  the  shores 
of  the  Atlantic,  and  against  all  the  counsel 
which  the  substitute  bill  authorizes  to  be  em- 
ployed. He  is  willing  to  run  the  gauntlet  of  all 
this,  according  to  his  letter  in  relation  to  the 
Mariposa  estate,  which  was  read  yesterday ;  but 
he  is  not  willing  that  other  claimants  should  be 
so  subjected,  or  that  his  exertions  in  their  behalf 
should  be  weakened  by  the  supposition  of  an 
interested  motive." 

In  answer  to  an  inquiry  on  the  subject  of  his 
Indian  bill,  Mr.  Fremont  said: — 

"  The  general  policy  of  Spain,  in  her  Indian 
relations,  was  the  same  as  that  which  was  after- 
wards adopted  by  all  Europe,  and  recognized  by 
the  United  States.  The  Indian  right  of  occupa- 


INDIAN   BILL.  311 

tion  was  respected,  hut  the  ultimate  dominion 
remained  in  the  Crown.  "Wherever  the  policy 
of  Spain  differed  from  that  of  the  other  Euro- 
pean nations,  it  was  always  in  favor  of  the  In- 
dians. Grants  of  lands  were  always  made  sub- 
ject to  their  rights  of  occupancy,  reserving  to 
them  the  right  to  resume  it  even  in  cases  where 
it  had  been  abandoned  at  the  tirne  of  the  grant. 
But  the  Indian  right  to  the  lands  in  property, 
under  the  Spanish  laws,  consisted,  not  merely  in 
possession,  but  extended  even  to  that  of  alien- 
ation ;  a  right  recognized  and  affirmed  in  the 
decisions  of  the  Supreme  Court  of  the  United 
States.  A  claim  to  lands  in  Bast  Florida, 
under  a  title  derived  from  grants  by  the  Creek 
and  Seminole  Indians,  and  ratified  by  the  local 
authorities  of  Spain  before  the  cession  of 
Florida  to  the  United  States  was  confirmed. 

"  I  have  here  in  my  hand  a  volume  of  Spanish 
laws  published  in  the  city  of  Mexico  in  1849, 
and  purporting  to  contain  all  the  legislation  on 
this  subject  which  was  in  force  in  Mexico  up  to 
that  date.  These  laws  extend  from  1533,  some 
twelve  years  after  the  conquest  of  Mexico  by 
Cortez,  to  1817.  The  policy  of  Spain  in  regard 
to  the  Indians,  differed  somewhat  from  that  of 
the  United  States,  and  particularly  in  this :  that, 
instead  of  removing  the  Indians  from,  amidst  the 
Spanish  population,  it  kept  them  there,  and  pro- 
tected them  in  the  possession  of  their  lands 


312  LIFE    OF   FREMONT. 

among  their  civilized  neighbors,  having  always 
in  view  the  leading  object  of  converting  them  to 
the  Christian  religion.  To  this  end  the  power 
of  the  government  was  always  directed ;  it  was 
a  national  object,  and,  in  great  part,  was  a 
governing  principle  in  the  laws  of  which  they 
were  the  subject.  I  will  not  occupy  the  time  of 
the  S.enate  by  reading  at  length  the  several  law?, 
but  will  merely  make  a  few  statements  of  such 
particular  parts  as  bear  directly  upon  the  rights 
in  question. 

"  A  royal  order  of  Charles  V.,  a  supreme  law  in 
Spain,  of  the  year  1533,  decreed  that  the  woods, 
pasture  lands,  and  water  contained  in  any  grants 
•of  signiories, which  had  been  or  should  be  made 
in  the  Indies,  should  be  common  to  Spaniards 
and  Indians.  Another  royal  order  of  1687  (con- 
firming and  extending  an  ordinance  of  the  vice- 
roy, Count  Saint  Stephen,  of  the  year  1567,) 
commanded  that  in  all  the  villages  of  Indians 
throughout  all  New  Spain,  who  needed  land  to 
live  upon  and  sow,  there  should  be  given  to  them 
a  space  of  500  yards,  and  as  much  more  as  they 
had  any  need  of  for  cultivation  around  their 
village',  measuring  from  the  furthest  outside 
house,  and  if  the  village  happened  to  be  a  large 
one,  an  unlimited  quantity  should  be  allowed, 
and  that  thereafter  no  grant  of  pasture  ground 
or  lands  should  be  given  to  any  one  within 


INDIAN   BILL.  313 

eleven  hundred  yards  of  the  most  outside  house 
of  the  population. 

"  A  law  of  Philip  III.  of  1618,  ordained  that  no 
pasture  grounds  of  black  cattle  should  be  situated 
within  a  league  and  a  half  of  any  village  con- 
verted in  old  times  to  the  Christian  religion,  and 
not  within  three  leagues  of  any  village  of  newly 
converted  Indians,  upon  pain  of  forfeiting  the* 
pasture  ground  and  Ihalf  the  cattle  which  there 
should  be  upon  it;  and  the  Indians  had  the  right 
to  kill  any  cattle  which  should  be  so  found  tres- 
passing upon  their  lands,  and  were  subject  to  no 
penalty  whatsoever  from  them. 

"  A  decree  of  Philip  II.  of  1571,  commanded 
that  the  Indians  should  have  the  right  to  alienate 
their  landed  property  as  well  as  their  personal 
effects,  prescribing  only  that  proclamation  should 
be  made  during  a  specified  time,  and  at  a  place 
of  public  sale. 

"  In  California  we  have  both  classes  of  Indians 
— the  Christian  or  converted  Indians,  collected 
together  at  the  missions  and  in  large  villages  of 
the  sea  coast  and  the  interior,  and  the  wild  In- 
dians of  the  mountains,  who  never  were  reduced 
to  subjection. 

"  In  California  we  are  at  this  moment  invading 
these  rights.  We  hold  there  by  the  strong  hand 
alone.  The  Indians  dispute  our  right  to  be 
there,  and  they  extend  the  privilege  which  the 

27 


314  LIFE    OF   FREMONT.    ' 

law  secured  them  of  killing  the  cattle  to  that  of 
killing  the  owner  whenever  they  find  an  occasion. 
Our  occupation  is  in  conflict  with  theirs,  and  it 
is  to  render  this  occupation  legal  and  equitable, 
and  to  preserve  the  peace,  that  I  have  introduced 
this  bill.  It  recommends  itself  to  the  favorable 
consideration  of  the  Senate  by  its  obvious 
'necessity,  and  because  it  is  right  in  itself,  be- 
cause it  is  politic,  and  because  it  is  conformable 
to  the  established  custom  of  this  Govern- 
ment." 

The  great  service  Col.  Fremont  rendered  to 
his  constituents  and  the  country,  while  in  the 
Senate  of  the  United  States,  was  in  securing  to 
the  miner  the  entire  product  of  his  labor,  and 
preventing  a  tax  being  levied  upon  the  precious 
metals.  When  his  bill  to  this  effect  came  up  for 
discussion  on  the  24th  of  September,  a  strenu- 
ous effort  was  made  to  amend  it  by  substituting 
a  provision  that  all  gold  extracted  from  the  mines 
or  placers  of  California,  should  be  and  remain 
the  property  of  the  United  States,  and  delivered 
over  accordingly,  the  miner  to  receive  it  back  at 
a  certain  rate,  which  would  leave  a  percentage 
in  the  hands  of  Government.  The  Senate, 
convinced  by  the  statements  of  the  California 
Senator,  rejected  this  amendment.  As  further 
amendments  continued  to  be  urged,  which  would 
have  essentially  changed  the  policy  of  his  bill, 
Col.  Fremont  at  last  felt  constrained,  on  the 


GOL»  NOT   TO   BE  TAXED.  315 

25th  of  September,  to  enter,  at  greater  length 
than  was  his  custom,  upon  the  defence  of 
his  views.  He  introduced  his  remarks  as  fol- 
lows :  — 

"  The  very  advanced  period  of  the  session 
when  we  obtained  our  seats,  and  were  able  to 
bring  forward  the  California  business,  induced 
me  to  take  a  course  in  relation  to  our  bills  which 
I  thought  most  agreeable  to  the  Senate  and  best 
suited  to  secure  for  them  a  favorable  considera- 
tion. This  was  not  to  use  the  indulgence  of  the 
Senate  for  making  speeches,  but  to  confine  my- 
self to  a  brief  exposition  of  the  nature  and  prin- 
ciples of  a  bill  when  it  should  be  called  up,  and 
then  to  answer,  as  well  as  I  could,  the  inquiries 
and  objections  of  senators  either  to  principles  or 
details.  But  I  find  such  a  course  difficult  on 
this  bill,  which  introduces  a  new  subject,  and  one 
which,  from  its  novelty  and  importance,  excites, 
and  ought  to  excite,  much  interest,  and  requires 
close  examination.  The  principles  of  this  bill, 
as  I  have  already  stated  them,  are,  to  exclude  all 
idea  of  making  a  national  revenue  out  of  these 
mines,  to  prevent  the  possibility  of  monopolies 
by  moneyed  capitalists,  and  to  give  to  NATURAL 
CAPITAL,  that  is  to  say,  to  LABOR  and  INDUSTRY, 
a  fair  chance  to  work,  and  the  secure  enjoyment 
of  what  they  find.  To  carry  out  these  principles 
to  their  just  resultSj  all  the  details  of  the  bill  are 
carefully  directed." 


316  LIFE  OF  FREMONff. 

After  some  remarks  pointing  out  the  evils 
that  would  flow  from  the  adoption  of  a  different 
system,  urged  by  some  senators,  he  proceeded 
to  explain  that  provided  for  in  his  bill,  a.s  fol- 
lows : — 

"  The  quantity  allowed  to  each  person  is  am- 
ple, considering  the  privilege  he  has  of  changing 
his  location  as  often  as  he  pleases,  and  selling 
his  lot  when  he  is  offered  a  good  price.  Thirty 
feet  square  is  to  be  the  size  of  a  lot,  to  be 
worked  by  manual  labor,  in  a  placer ;  two  hun- 
dred and  ten  feet,  or  about  one  acre,  is  to  be  the 
size  of  a  lot  in  a  mine,  to  be  worked  by  ma- 
chinery, in  the  rock. 

"A  placer  lot,  accordingly,  contains  nine  hun- 
dred superficial  feet,  with  a  depth  to  the  centre 
of  the  earth.  A  cube  of  these  dimensions 
would  be  twenty-seven  thousand  solid  feet  |  and 
if  a  place  of  tolerable  richness  is  found,  an 
industrious  man  may  say  his  fortune  is  made. 
Sooner  or  later  every  industrious  man  may 
expect  to  find  a  good  lot ;  and  whether  he  sells 
it  or  works  it,  his  reward  will  be  ample. 

"  If  he  sells,  he  may  take  another  permit,  and 
work  on  until  he  makes  another  good  discovery, 
and  either  sells  this  or  exhausts  it ;  and  so  on, 
until  he  is  satisfied,  or  the  mining  exhausted. 
Wherever  he  may  plant  his  stake,  exclusive  pos- 
session is  guaranteed  to  the  miner,  so  long  as  he 
works  his  mining  lot,  or  to  his  assignee,  if  sold, 


GOLD   NOT   TO   BE  TAXED.  317 

or  to  his  legal  representatives,  in  the  event  of  his 
death.  All  that  he  finds  is  to  be  his  own — there 
is  no  tax  to  be  paid ;  no  per  centum — no  fifth, 
or  tenth,  or  twentieth  to  the  government;  no 
officer  to  stand  over  the  miner  and  require  him 
to  give  an  account  of  all  he  finds,  and  surrender 
up  a  part  to  the  Federal  government, — all  is  his 
own  that  he  has  the  industry  to  collect ;  and  for 
these  multiplied  advantages,  with  the  protection 
of  law  and  the  security  of  order,  the  citizen 
pays  only  one  dollar  a  month  for  as  many 
months  as  he  may  choose,  not  exceeding  twelve, 
with  a  preemptive  right  to  continue  his  own  lot. 
This  nominal  sum  of  one  dollar  a  month  is  all 
that  the  bill  proposes  for  him  to  pay ;  and  while 
it  will  be  sufficient  to  indemnify  the  govern- 
ment for  all  expenses,  and  to  yield  a  respectable 
sum  besides,  it  will  be  no  burden  on  the  miner ; 
he  will  not  feel  it,  but  will  pay  it  cheerfully  in 
return  for  the  advantages  which  the  permit 
secures  him. 

"  I  am  glad  to  find  that  the  Senate  evinces 
no  disposition  to  create  revenue  by  heavy  taxes 
on  the  gold  mines  of  our  State,  and  that  the  lib- 
eral principles  of  this  bill,  from  the  votes  already 
taken,  are  likely  to  prevail  in  this  Chamber. 

"  I  think  that  this  Government  should  look  for 
increase  of  revenues  to  the  EXPANDED  COMMERCE 
which  the  discovery  .of  these  gold  mines  has 
created  in  the  Pacific  Ocean. 

27* 


318  LIFE   OF   FREMONT. 

"  Oppressive  taxes  on  the  precious  metals  are 
well  suited  to  a  government  like  that  of  Spain, 
which  derived  one  of  its  chief  supports  from  its 
mines  in  New  Spain ;  which  used  the  labor  of 
the  people  only  to  create  revenue ;  which  de- 
manded from  them  the  first  fruits  of  the  earth, 
and  taxed  every  thing  which  it  did  not  monopo- 
lize, and  every  thing  in  the  same  proportion — 
agricultural  products  as  well  as  mines — a  tenth 
of  the  whole,  and  all  to  support  the  extravagant 
expenditures  of  its  arbitrary  monarchs.  In  con- 
sequence of  these,  oppressive  exactions,  ninety- 
nine  were  ruined  out  of  a  hundred  who  engaged 
in  gold-mining  operations  in  her  dependencies. 
But  we  have  adopted  a  wiser  course.  Reason 
and  experience  teach  us  the  folly  as  well  as  the 
injustice  of  attempting  such  exactions  from  the 
people.  We  have  seen  their  failure  on  a  small 
scale  in  our  own  lead-mine  leasing,  and  we  have 
before  us  the  result  of  their  operation  under  the 
elaborate  system  and  arbitrary  power  of  Spain, 
\vhich,  with  all  their  extravagant  taxes,  yielded, 
in  tnose  years  of  which  I  have  any  account, 
and  at  a  flourishing  period  of  the  mines,  a 
revenue  of  only  about  $60,000  per  annum  from 
the  gold  mines  of  New  Spain.  Mexico  found 
out  the  folly  of  this  course,  and,  immediately 
after  her  independence  in  1831,  abolished  these 
multiplied  taxes,  and  substituted  for  them  all  a 
simple  duty  of  three  per  cent.  Heavy  taxes  had 


GOLD  NOT  TO   BE  TAXED.  319 

almost  destroyed  tnis  branch  of  her  revenues, 
and  liberal  provisions  were  made  to  resuscitate 
it.  The  quicksilver  mines  were  given  to  all  who 
would  work  them,  free  of  all  tax  and  all  kind  of 
duty.  Rewards  of  $25,000  each  were  decreed 
to  the  first  four  operators  who  should  extract  a 
certain  quantity  of  the  metal — the  miners  were 
exempted  from  all  personal  contributions  and 
all  military  service — and  all  to  restore  what 
taxation  had  ruined.  We  cannot,  certainly,  go 
back  from  what  Mexico  has  done,  and  take  up 
the  abandoned  system  of  old  Spain  ;  and  I  trust 
that,  while  we  repudiate  taxation,  we  shah1  also 
avoid  anarchy  and  disorder,  and  give  to  the 
country  some  such  brief  and  simple  code  of 
regulations,  as  will  secure  to  every  man  the 
peaceable  exercise  of  his  industry,  and  the  pos- 
session and  enjoyment  of  what  he  gains." 

It  seems  to  be  quite  obvious,  that  great  evils 
would  have  resulted  from  exacting  a  percentage 
from  the  miners  upon  the  gold  obtained  by 
them.  It  would  have  led  to  hiding  or  otherwise 
concealing  the  gold,  to  false  representations  of 
the  amount,  and  to  endless  controversies  and 
altercations  between  miners  and  official  agents. 
The  fatal  poison  of  such  a  system  is  in  the 
alienation  which  contrary  interests  would  in- 
evitably have  engendered  between  the  people 
and  the  Government.  This  will  sap  any  polit- 
ical organization  at  its  foundation.  Nothing 


320  LIFE    OF   FREMONT. 

can  sjave  a  state  from  decay  and  ruin,  where 
the  people  and  the  government  are  led  to  regard 
each  other  as  enemies.  This  would  have  been 
the  effect  had  government  officers  watched  the 
labor  of  the  miner,  and  snatched  away  the 
product  of  his  toil,  in  the  form  of  a  direct  tax ; 
and  the  gold  of  California  would  have  done  no 
more  for  the  benefit  of  the  people,  the  govern- 
ment, or  the  world,  than  the  precious  metals  in 
Mexico  and  Peru  did  under  the  rule  of  Spain. 

The  public  records  show  that  it  is  mainly  by 
the  exertions  of  Fremont  that  the  Senate  of  the 
United  States  was  persuaded  to  avoid  the  policy 
of  taxing  the  gold  .of  California.  It  is  free'  to 
all  who  toil  for  it.  There  is  no  inducement  and 
no  room  left  for  fraud  or  concealment.  Industry 
possesses  and  enjoys  its  full  reward.  Labor  is 
protected  from  exaction,  clothed  with  its  proper 
dignity,  and  crowned  with  prosperity.  The 
people  feel  the  government  only  in  its  munifi- 
cence and  guardian  care.  Every  motive  that 
can  prompt  to  enterprise,  and  every  spring  that 
can  develop  energy  is  brought  to  bear ;  and  we 
may  repose  in  a  just  confidence  that  the  min- 
eral treasures  of  the  Pacific  coast  will  contrib- 
ute, with  a  mighty  power,  to  fulfil  the  great 
design  of  all  Fremont's  labors, — in  transferring 
to  channels,  to  be  opened  across  our  continent, 
the  commerce  of  the  world. 


CHAPTER  IX. 

ENGAGES  IN  THE  CATTLE    BUSINESS  IN  CALIFORNIA 

GOLD     DISCOVERY VISIT    TO     ENGLAND     AND 

FRANCE IMPRISONMENT       IN       LONDON FIFTH 

EXPEDITION PACIFIC  RAILROAD MARIPOSA  TI- 
TLE FINALLY  CONFIRMED  BY  THE  SUPREME 
COURT  OF  THE  UNITED  STATES. 

IN  returning  to  California  by  the  isthmus, 
after  the  close  of  the  session  of  Congress,  in  the 
fall  of  1850,  he  suffered  from  Panama  fever, 
which  left  him  for  a  long  time  quite  paralyzed 
by  a  neuralgic  affection  of  the  left  side.  He 
was  utterly  unable,  from  this  cause,  to  return  to 
Washington  to  serve  out  the  residue  of  his  term. 
He  was  a  candidate  for  reelection  to  the  United 
States  Senate,  and  was  supported  by  the  Free 
State  party.  Governor  Charles  Robinson  was 
a  member  of  the  California  legislature,  at  the 
time,  and  their  joint  struggles  to  save  that  State 
from  slavery  were,  as  they  both  have  declared,  the 
foundation  of  the  friendship  that  exists  between 
them,  and  have  given  additional  force  to  the  ardent 

(321) 


322  LIFE   OF  FREMONT. 

syoypathy  which  Col.  Fremont  has  expressed, 
from  the  first,  in  such  decisive  language  and  on 
all  occasions,  in  the  devotion  of  Robinson,  and  his 
heroic  fellow-sufferers,  to  the  same  sacred  cause 
in  Kansas.  There  were  more  than  140  ballots. 
Every  native  Californian  voted  for  him  from  the 
beginning  to  the  end.  There  was  no  election ; 
and  the  .whole  subject  was  postponed  to  the 
next  legislature. 

When  his  health  was  sufficiently  restored,  he 
went  into  the  cattle-raising  business.  By  an 
act  of  Congress,  passed  September  30,  1850, 
the  President  was  authorized  to  appoint  "  com- 
missioners to  hold  treaties  with  the  various  In- 
dian tribes  in  the  State  of  California."  Three 
were  appointed.  Upon  reaching  California,  they 
discovered  that  the  main  cause  of  all  the  Indian 
troubles  there,  was,  that  the  poor  creatures  were 
in  a  state  of  actual  starvation.  The  rush  of  gold 
diggers  into  the  San  Joaquin  valley,  had  driven 
the  Indians  into  the  mountains,  where  there  were 
no  means  of  subsistence.  What  the  Indians 
needed  was  food.  The  commissioners,  there- 
fore, made  treaties  with  twenty-one  tribes,  stipu- 
lating the  surrender  by  them  of  the  gold-bearing 
regions,  and  their  removal  to  lands  of  less  min- 
eral value,  but  equally  well  adapted  to  their 
uses,  and  agreeing  to  provide  them  with  a  suffi- 
cient allowance  of  beef  to  cover  the  period  of 
their  transfer,  and  sustain  them  until  able  to  take 


ENGAGES    IN    THE    CATTLE    BUSINESS.  323 

care  of  themselves  in  their  new  location — that 
is,  during  the  remainder  of  the  year  1851  and 
the  year  1852.  Colonel  George  W.  Barbour,  of 
Kentucky,  one  of  the  commissioners,  and  acting 
by  their  authority,  contracted  with  Col.  Fremont 
to  supply  the  requisite  amount  of  beef.  In  a 
letter  to  him,  Barbour  says :  "  I  have  had  many 
proposals  offered  me  to  furnish  such  supplies ; 
but  regarding  your  offer  as  the  lowest  and  best 
of  any  yet  made  by  a  responsible  man,  and  be- 
lieving, as  I  do,  that  your  offer  is  a  fair  one,  I 
have  concluded  to  close  with  your  proposition." 
As  Col.  Fremont  was  then  engaged  in  the 
cattle-raising  business,  and  was  well  known  to 
all  the  people  of  the  country,  and  in  tne  enjoy- 
ment of  universal  confidence  and  good-will,  he. 
was  enabled  to  execute  such  a  contract.  He  col- 
lected a  vast  number  of  cattle  in  the  Southern 
part  of  th.e  State,  hired  drivers,  and  himself 
accompanied  and  superintended  the  drove.  It 
was  the  dry  season.  The  cattle  were  driven  up- 
wards of  300  miles,  in  the  heat  of  summer,  at 
great  labor  and  expense.  About  400  head  died 
on  the  route.  He  delivered  1,225,500  pounds  of 
beef  on  the  hoof,  and  accepted  in  payment  drafts 
drawn  by  the  commissioner  on  the  Secretary  of 
the  Interior.  This  supply  of  food,  which  he  col- 
lected with  his  usual  energy  and  business  capac- 
ity, and  delivered  on  the  faith  of  the  Govern- 
ment, was  declared  by  the  entire  delegation  in 


324  LIFE   OF   FREMONT. 

Congress  from  California,  in  1854,  to  have  re- 
moved the  cause  of  the  Indian  wars,  to  have 
given  the  country  peace,  and  to  have  opened  it 
to  the  secure  labors  of  the  miners. 

But  the  Senate  rejected  the  treaty.  Col.  Fre- 
mont's drafts  against  the  Secretary  of  the  Inte- 
rior were  not  allowed,  and  he  had  no  remedy 
but  by  a  special  act  of  Congress.  For  more 
than  three  years  he  was  kept  out  of  his  money. 
The  thirty-third  Congress  at  last  discharged  this 
just  debt.  A  bill  passed  both  Houses  unani- 
mously, paying  him  the  principal,  and  a  reason- 
able rate  of  interest,  the  whole  amounting  to 
about  $240,000. 

The  Mariposa  purchase,  which  was  regarded 
as  a  hard  bargain  at  the  time,  became  a  very 
different  affair  when  the  gold  discovery  was 
made.  It  is  exceedingly  rich  in  the  metal,  both 
as  mixed  with  the  soil,  and  in  the  quartz  rock, 
as  rich,  perhaps,  as  any  part  of  that  country. 
Immediately  upon  this  fact  becoming  known, 
the  title  by  which  Col.  Fremont  holds  it  was 
brought  in  question  by  private  parties,  and  -then 
by  the  Government.  This  led  him  to  ne\y  strug- 
gles and  contests,  and  has  carried  him  through 
a  series  of  experiences  that  have  tested  his  firm- 
ness as  much,  perhaps,  as  any  of  the  trials  of  his 
life.  But,  as  in  every  thing  else,  he  has  con- 
quered success  at  last. 

An   agent   had  been  employed  in  England, 


VISIT   TO   ENGLAND.  325 

• 

who  had  executed  several  leases  to  various  par- 
ties. Finding  that  the  title  was  disputed,  and 
that  the  litigation  might  be  protracted,  he  came 
back  to  the  Atlantic  States  in  the  spring  of 
1852,  and  went  over  to  England,  accompanied 
by  his  family,  to  prevent  all  further  proceedings 
by  his  agent,  and  remove  any  difficulties  or 
embarrassments  that  might  arise  from  transac- 
tions based  upon  the  supposition  of  the  certain 
validity  of  the  title.  He  finally  succeeded  in 
arranging  the  business  to  the  satisfaction  of  all 
concerned. 

In  England,  as  afterwards  on  the  continent, 
he  received  attentions  which  showed  the  ex- 
tent to  which  his  geographical  discoveries  and 
scientific  reports  had  given  him  a  European  rep- 
utation. His  brilliant  and  chivalrous  proceed- 
ings in  California  had,  no  doubt,  also  attracted 
much  observation.  Learned  and  scientific  socie- 
ties invited  him  to  attend  their  meetings.  Many 
distinguished  persons,  of  eminent  attainments 
and  high  position,  sought  his  acquaintance. 

While  in  charge  of  California  affairs,  by  ap- 
pointment as  military  governor  of  that  territory 
from  Commodore  Stockton,  in  the  spring  of 
1847,  he  had  drawn  upon  the  Secretary  of  State 
of  the  United  States,  Mr.  Buchanan,  to  carry  on 
the  government,  and  obtain  supplies  for  the 
troops  under  his  command.  These  drafts  were 
not  honored  at  Washington,  as  no  appropria- 
28 


326  LIFE    OF    FREMONT. 

tions  had  been  made  by  Congress  to  meet  them. 
They  had  remained  unpaid,  and  had  passed,  per- 
haps, from  hand  to  hand. 

When  Col.  Fremont  had  been  a  few  weeks 
in  London,  without  having  received  any  notice 
whatever,  he  was  arrested,  at  the  instance  of 
the  holders  of  some  of  these  drafts,  by  a 
Solicitor's  clerk,  accompanied  by  four  constables, 
in  front  of  the  Clarendon  Hotel,  while  handing 
his  wife  into  a  carriage,  on  their  way  to  dine 
with  Mr.  Sturgis.  It  was  past  banking  hours. 
He  inquired  for  what  he  was  arrested.  They 
told  him,  for  <£  10,000.  Upon  his  saying  that 
there  must  be  some  mistake,  they  replied,  in  a 
very  rough  way,  that  he  would  soon  find  that 
there  was  no  mistake.  They  hurried  him  off 
to  a  place  of  confinement,  commonly  known 
as  a  "  sponging-house,"  from  the  extortion  prac- 
tised upon  persons  arrested  for  debt,  who  may 
be  supposed  to  have  means.  Mrs.  Fremont 
instantly  sent  a  message  to  Mr.  Sturgis,  explain- 
ing the  cause  of  their  absence,  and  drove  her- 
self to  the  residence  of  Mr.  Lawrence,  the 
American  Minister  in  London,  to  inform  him 
of  the  affair.  Mr.  Lawrence  was  not  at  home. 
He  had  gone,  with  Mr.  Bates  and  others,  to  Mr. 
Sturgis's  to  meet  Col.  and  Mrs.  Fremont.  Not 
knowing  upon  whom  else  to  call  for  advice  or 
aid,  she  had  to  return  to  her  hotel.  Mr.  Ban- 
croft Davis,  then  Secretary  of  Legation,  also  of 


FIFTH    EXPEDITION.  327 

Mr.  Sturgis's  party,  upon  receiving  information 
of  the  transaction,  went,  late  in  the  evening, 
with  others,  to  Col.  Fremont,  in  the  place  of 
his  confinement.  The  next  day,  it  not  being 
proper  for  Mr.  Lawrence,  on  account  of  his  offi- 
cial position  to  do  it,  Mr.  George  Peabody  gave 
the  necessary  bail,  and  Col.  Fremont  was  re- 
leased. This  was  one  of  the  rewards  he  received 
for  having  saved  California  to  his  country !  To 
be  publicly  thrown  into  a  British  prison,  and  sub- 
jected to  ignominy  and  outrage  in  the  streets  of 
London!  What  rendered  the  occurrence  par- 
ticularly annoying,  was  the  fact  that  the  Colonel 
and  Mrs.  Fremont  had  just  before  been  honored 
by  the  Queen,  with  a  reception  at  a  Drawing 
Room,  of  which  the  usual  announcement  had 
been  made  in  the  public  Gazettes. 

Not  long  after  this,  Col.  Fremont  went  to 
Paris,  where  he  took  a  house,  in  which  he 
continued  about  a  year.  In  June,  1853,  he 
returned  to  his  own  country. 

In  August,  1853,  he  started  upon  his  fifth 
and  last  expedition,  being  determined  to  solve 
the  problem  of  the  practicability  of  a  trans-con- 
tinental communication,  by  common  road,  and 
by  railroad.  This  expedition  was  at  the  joint 
expense  of  Col.  Fremont  and  Col.  Benton. 

The  particular  point  to  which  attention  was 
to  be  directed,  was,  to  ascertain  the  winter 
condition  of  the  country,  in  reference  to  the 


328  LIFE   OF  FREMONT. 

practicability  of  a  railroad,  to  determine  how 
far  snow  would  be  an  obstruction,  and  whether 
the  circumstances  incident  to  that  season  could 
be  encountered  and  surmounted. 

So  great  a  length  of  time  elapsed  before  hear- 
ing from  him,  that  the  most  serious  apprehen- 
sions began  to  prevail ;  and  as  weeks  and 
months  wore  away  and  no  intelligence  came 
from  any  quarter,  a  painful  conviction  deepened 
in  the  public  mind  that  he  had  met,  at  last,  the 
fate  he  had  so  often  braved.  It  was  not  until 
the  early  part  of  April,  1854,  that  his  safety  was 
ascertained.  Col.  Babbitt,  the  Secretary  of 
Utah  Territory,  was  on  his  way  to  Washington, 
with  the  United  States  mail.  He  had  left  the 
Great  Salt  Lake  on  the  4th  of  February,  and 
was  going  by  what  is  called  the  coast  route, 
that  is,  taking  passage  on  the  Pacific  side,  and 
crossing  by  Panama.  On  the  8th  of  February, 
an  Indian  came  to  his  camp  and  told  him  that, 
the  day  before,  he  had  met  a  company  of  Ameri- 
cans, and  "  that  they  were  hungry."  That  night 
Babbitt  overtook  Fremont  at  a  small  Mormon 
settlement.  He  sent  a  man  to  his  camp  to  com- 
municate with  him,  but  Fremont  excused  him- 
self from  talking  as  he  was  too  much  worn  out; 
but  the  next  morning  early,  he  called  upon  Bab- 
.bitt  and  informed  him  of  the  route  and  condi- 
tion of  his  party.  Col.  Babbitt  published  an 
account  of  the  meeting  in  the  California  papers, 


FIFTH    EXPEDITION.  329 

and  they  brought  the  first  intelligence  received 
from  the  expedition.  About  the  same  time  the 
Philadelphia  Bulletin  contained  an  extract  from 
a  letter  of  Mr.  S.  N.  Carvallo,  Col.  Fremont's 
daguerreotypist,  dated  Feb.  8,  and  brought  in, 
undoubtedly,  by  Col.  Babbitt,  in  which  he  says 
that  the  party  had  "  lived  fifty  days  oh  horse- 
flesh, and  for  the  last  forty-eight  hours  had  been 
without  food  of  any  kind."  The  National  In- 
telligencer, of  April  12,  1854,  finally  quieted  the 
public  apprehensions,  by  the  following  article  : — 
"  It  gives  us  great  pleasure  to  insert  the  sub- 
joined letter  from  Colonel  Fremont,  not  only 
because  it  contradicts  the  exaggerated  reports 
of  deaths  sustained  by  his  party  and  assures  us 
of  the  intrepid  explorer's  own  safety,  after  his 
two  months'  bold  journey  through  the  mountain 
wilds  in  midwinter,  but  because  his  success 
seems  fully  to  have  established  the  favorable 
nature  of  the  central  route  for  a  railroad  in 
winter  as  well  as  summer:  — 

1  "  PARAWAN,  IKON  COUNTY,  UTAH  TEKRITORT, 

"February  9,  1854. 

"  MY  DEAR  SIR  :  I  have  had  the  good  fortune 
to  meet  here  our  friend  Mr.  Babbitt,  the  Sec- 

1  Valley  of  the  Parawan,  about  sixty  miles  east  of  the 
meadows  of  Santa  Clara,  between  37  and  38  degrees  of 
north  latitude,  and  between  113  and  114  degrees  of  west 
longitude;  elevation  above  the  sea  about  5,000  feet. 


330  LIFE   OF   FREMONT. 

retary  of  the  Territory,  who  is  on  his  way  to 
Washington,  in  charge  of  the  mail  and  other 
very  interesting  despatches,  the  importance  of 
which  is  urging  him  forward  with  extreme  rapid- 
ity. He  passes  directly  on  this  morning,  and  I 
have  barely  a  few  moments  to  give  you  intelli- 
gence of  our  safe  arrival  and  of  our  general  good 
health  and  reasonable  success  in  the  object  of 
our  expedition. 

"  This  winter  has  happened  to  be  one  of  ex- 
treme and  unusual  cold.  Here,  the  citizens 
inform  me,  it  has  been  altogether  the  severest 
since  the  settlement  of  this  valley  ;  consequently, 
so  far  as  the  snows  are  concerned,  the  main 
condition  of  our  exploration  has  been  fulfilled. 
We  entered  the  mountain  regions  on  the  Huer- 
fano  River  on  the  3d  of  December,  and  issued 
from  it  here  on  the  7th  of  this  month,  arriving 
here  yesterday  afternoon.  We  went  through 
the  Coochatope  Pass  on  the  14th  December, 
with  four  inches, — not  feet,  take  notice,  but 
inches — of  snow  on  the  level,  among  the  pines 
and  in  the  shade  on  the  summit  of  the  Pass. 
This  decides  what  you  consider  the  great  ques- 
tion, and  fulfils  the  leading  condition  of  my 
explorations ;  and  therefore  I  go  no  further  into 
details  in  this  letter. 

"  I  congratulate  you  on  this  verification  of 
your  judgment,  and  the  good  prospect  it  holds 
out  of  final  success  in  carrying  the  road  by  this 


CENTRAL  ROUTE.  331 

central  line.  Nature  has  been  bountiful  to  this 
region  in  accumulating  here,  within  a  few  miles 
of  where  I  am  writing,  vast  deposits  of  iron 
and  coal  and  timber,  all  of  the  most  excellent 
quality ;  and  a  great  and  powerful  interior  State 
will  spring  up  immediately  in  the  steps  of  the 
Congressional  action  which  should  decide  to 
carry  the  road  through  this  region.  In  making 
my  expedition  to  this  point,  I  save  nearly  a 
parallel  of  latitude,  shortening  the  usual  distance 
from  Green  River  to  this  point  by  over  a  hun- 
dred miles.  In  crossing  to  the  Sierra  Nevada, 
I  shall  go  direct  by  an  unexplored  route,  aiming 
to  strike  directly  the  Tejon  Passes,  at  the  head 
of  the  San  Joaquin  valley,  through  which,  in 
1850,  I  drove  from  two  to  three  thousand  head 
of  cattle  that  I  delivered  to  the  Indian  Commis- 
sioners. I  shall  make  what  speed  I  possibly  can, 
going  light,  and  abandoning  the  more  elaborated 
survey  of  my  previous  line,  to  gain  speed. 

"  Until  within  about  a  hundred  miles  of  this 
place,  we  had  daguerreotyped  the  country  over 
which  we  passed,  but  were  forced  to  abandon 
all  our  heavy  baggage  to  save  the  men,  and  I 
shall  not  stop  to  send  back  for  it.  The  Dela- 
wares  all  came  in  sound,  but  the  whites  of  my 
party  were  all  exhausted  and  broken  up,  and 
more  or  less  frost-bitten.  I  lost  one,  Mr.  Fuller, 
of  St.  Louis,  Missouri,  who  died  on  entering  this 
valley.  He  died  like  a  man,  on  horseback,  in 


332  LIFE   OF   FREMONT. 

his  saddle,  and  will  be  buried  like  a  soldier,  on 
the  spot  where  he  fell. 

"  I  hope  soon  to  see  you  in  Washington.  Mr. 
Babbitt  expects  to  see  you  before  the  end  of 
March.  Among  other  documents  which  he 
carries  with  him,  are  the  Maps  and  Report  of 
Captain  Gunnisori's  party. 

"  Sincerely  and  affectionately, 

"JOHN  C.  FREMONT. 
"  Col.  BENTON,  Washington. 

"  P.  S.  This  is  the  Little  Salt  Lake  settle- 
ment, and  was  commenced  three  years  since. 
Population  now  four  hundred,  and  one  death  by 
sickness  since  the  settlement  was  made.  We 
have  been  most  hospitably  received.  Mr.  Bab- 
bitt has  been  particularly  kind,  and  has  rendered 
me  very  valuable  assistance." 

The  St.  Louis  Democrat  of  April  8,  1854, 
speaking  of  this  last  expedition,  after  mention- 
ing that  it  was  undertaken,  as  well  as  the  pre- 
vious one,  at  his  own  expense,  says  that  when 
he  set  out  upon  it,  "  his  health  was  in  a  preca- 
rious condition,  and  he  was  even  compelled  to 
take  with  him  a  physician,  who  accompanied 
him  to  the  Rocky  Mountains.  His  private 
business  in  California  called  loudly  for  his  pres- 
ence there,  having  suffered  by  his  absence  in 
Europe,  protracted  by  imprisonment  for  debts 
incurred  in  the  conquest  of  California,  and  which 
was  adding  millions  every  year  to  the  wealth  of 


FREMONT'S  EXPLORATIONS.  333 

our  people,  whilst  our  government  neglected  and 
refused  to  pay  the  debt  incurred  by  Fremont  in 
its  acquisition.  It  was  under  such  difficulties 
and  embarrassments,  in  the  face  of  so  much 
personal  sacrifice  and  danger,  that  this  expedi- 
tion was  undertaken  by  the  heroic  and  intrepid 
adventurer." 

On  Colonel  Fremont's  return  to  the  Atlantic 
States,  the  St.  Louis  Intelligencer  welcomed 
him  in  the  following  language  : — 

"  The  maxim  that  fortune  favors  the  brave, 
has  been  signally  illustrated  by  the  fact  that  the 
winter  which  Col.  Fremont  chose  for  exploring 
a  howling  wilderness  of  thousands  of  miles, 
where  he  was  cut  off  for  weeks  from  the  succor 
and  sympathy  of  civilized  man,  except  his  own 
party,  has  been  the  hardest  winter  ever  known 
in  those  regions.  To  carry  his  men  safely 
through  the  fearful  hardships  and  perils  of  this 
unexampled  winter,  is  itself  a  solution  of  the 
problem  which  he  went  to  determine,  besides 
showing  fortitude,  mental  resources,  and  uncon- 
querable energy  of  will,  which  stamp  the  hardy 
explorer  as  one  of  the  great  men  of  action  who 
make  their  mark  upon  their  country  and  their 
age.  It  is  the  fit  crowning  achievement  of  a 
series  of  adventurous  explorations,  not  sur- 
passed, if  equalled,  in  respect  to  the  qualities 
displayed  and  the  magnitude  of  the  results,  by 
any  similar  career  in  the  history  of  mankind. 


334  LIFE   OP  FREMONT. 

The  career  of  Fremont  has  been  characteris- 
tically western  and  American,  at  a  time  when 
the  great  work  of  western  America  is  to  subdue 
the  wilderness.  He  is  a  mightier  Daniel  Boone, 
on  a  far  more  magnificent  theatre,  and  adds  to 
the  sturdy  qualities  of  the  pioneer  of  civiliza- 
tion, those  graces  and  attainments  of  science 
and  literature,  which  only  the  highest  civilization 
can  confer." 

In  the  National  Intelligencer,  of  June  13, 
1854,  Col.  Fremont  published  a  letter  condens- 
ing the  general  results  of  his  last  exploration, 
which  the  House  of  Representatives  ordered  to 
be  reprinted  among  its  miscellaneous  documents. 
When  his  full  report  is  published,  it  will  contain  a 
rigid  and  thorough  discussion  of  all  the  obstacles 
and  difficulties  in  the  way  of  the  construction 
of  a  railroad  connecting  the  Atlantic  States,  cen- 
trally, with  the  Pacific  coast.  It  is  well  known 
that  he  is  fully  convinced  that  it  can  be  done. 
When  the  people  say  that  it  shall  be  done,  it 
will  be  done.  The  resources  of  this  great  coun- 
try are  adequate  to  the  work.  Its  commerce,  its 
union,  and  its  power,  require  it.  All  that  is 
needed  is  a  government  pledged  to  accomplish 
it,  and  honest,  firm,  and  energetic  enough  to 
redeem  its  pledge. 

After  a  resistance  on  the  part  of  the  United 
States  quite  unparalleled,  and  continued  to  a 
point  of  persistency  which  brought  down  a 


MARIPOSA    PATENT.  335 

rebuke  from  the  bench,  the  supreme  court,  dur- 
ing its  last  session,  fully  and  finally  established 
Col.  Fremont's  title  to  the  Mariposa  grant,  and 
his  patent  was  made  out  and  delivered  to  him 
by  the  President  himself. 

It  is  a  property  of  very  great  value.  To  meet 
the  various  expenses  incident  to  a  harassing 
and  tedious  litigation,  it  was  necessary  to  con- 
vey one  half  of  it  to  another  party.  It  contains 
seventy  square  miles,  and  includes  already  a 
population  rising  10,000.  The  town  of  Mari- 
posa is  a  county  seat,  having  a  court-house  that 
cost  $12,000.  There  are  six  or  eight  other 
towns  or  villages,  within  its  limits,  and  its 
value  is  rapidly  increasing.  While  the  title 
hung  in  doubt,  its  prosperity  was  kept  in  check. 
But  now  every  thing  can  be  placed  on  a  firm 
basis.  The  Mariposa  Gazette,  the  local  news- 
paper, in  a  recent  article,  expresses  the  gratifica- 
tion of  the  people  of  the  territory,  that  it  has 
been  secured  to  Col.  Fremont.  His  countrymen 
of  all  parties,  we  may  rest  assured,  participate 
warmly  in  the  same  satisfaction. 

Although  the  meridian  of  life  is  scarcely  yet 
reached,  its  great  struggles  seem  to  be  over,  and 
he  may  well  enjoy  the  felicity,  which  a  retro- 
spect of  usefulness  and  honor,  and  the  blessings 
of  a  bountiful  Providence,  cannot  fail  to  bestow. 


CHAPTER  X. 

GENERAL    REMARKS. 

THE  career  of  Col.  Fremont  must  be  con- 
sidered as  one  of  the  most  active,  and  crowded 
with  service,  of  any  in  the  whole  circle  of 
biography.  Considering  that  we  live  in  what  is 
called  a  utilitarian  age,  and  that  his  line  of 
occupation  has  itself  been  eminently  practical, 
it  is  remarkable  how  much  that  is  romantic  and 
almost  marvellous  is  spread  over  it.  Poetry 
has  seldom  indulged  in  visions  stranger  or  more 
exciting  than  has  been  his  reality.  Chivalry  has 
seldom  had  finer  models  than  his  camp  pre- 
sented. The  artist  finds  as  many  scenes  of 
varied  and  most  attractive  interest,  in  the  events 
and  circumstances  delineated  on  the  foregoing 
pages,  as  in  the  experience  of  any  feudal  or 
heroic  period  of  the  world.  The  days  of  high 
adventure  are  not  over ;  life,  in  our  times,  and 
in  our  country,  opens  still  a  field  for  true  hero- 
ism; and,  in  every  calling,  presents  emergencies 


PERSON   AND   MANNERS.  337 

that  will  try  and  display  the  power  and  glory 
of  courage,  truth,  benevolence,  and  fidelity. 

Of  a  character  not  yet  closed,  no  minute  or 
full  portrait  can  be  drawn.  But  his  country- 
men justly  ask  to  be  made  acquainted,  in  some 
detail  of  particulars,  with  the  person  of  one  who 
has  attracted  so  much  their  attention  ;  and  a 
few  general  reflections  may,  with  propriety,  be 
appended  to  the  narrative  now  brought  to  a 
close. 

Colonel  Fremont  is  not  yet  old  in  years,  and 
looks  even  younger  than  he  is.  He  is  in  the 
full  flower  of  matured  strength  and  health. 
He  is  about  five  feet  nine  inches  in  height,  but 
from  his  perfectly  straight,  erect,  and  elastic 
bearing,  appears  taller  than  his  inches.  He  is 
quite  slender,  but  well  made,  of  a  peculiarly 
graceful  bearing,  quick  and  alert  in  his  move- 
ments; and  by  his  manners  and  expression, 
conciliates  the  good-will  of  all  whom  he  meets. 
His  success  in  life  is  partly  owing  to  the  favor- 
able impression  he  makes  by  his  manner  of 
treating  others  in  common  intercourse.  Consul 
Larkin,  in  a  letter  to  the  Secretary  of  State, 
dated  April  2,  1846,  referring  to  Fremont's  first 
visit  to  Monterey,  says  that  he  "was  well  re- 
ceived in  this  place,  and  to  the  last  day  we 
heard  of  him,  by  the  natives  individually,  who 
sold  him  provisions  and  liked  his  presence." 
Colonel  William  H.  Russell,  a  witness  of  the 

29 


338  LIFE    OF   FREMONT, 

highest  character,  and  great  means  of  informa- 
tion, testified  before  the  military  committee  of 
the  Senate  as  follows :  "  In  consequence  of  the 
wise  and  humane  treatment  of  Colonel  Fremont 
towards  the  conquered  population,  his  popularity 
became  very  great  in  the  country,  and  enabled 
him  to  do  what  no  other  man,  I  confidently 
believe,  could  have  done."  There  is  much  more 
testimony  to  the  same  effect.  The  point  is 
urged  as  an  important  lesson.  Nothing  costs 
less,  and  nothing  purchases  so  much  as  a  kind, 
respectful,  courteous,  and  agreeable  treatment 
of  others. 

This  uniform  justice  and  friendliness  of  man- 
ner and  spirit  in  his  treatment  of  others,  com- 
bined with  readiness  to  decide  where  the  decision 
belongs  to  him ;  rapid,  and  as  the  result  has  al- 
ways proved,  correct  judgment;  cool  and  intrepid 
courage,  and  persevering  firmness  of  purpose, 
constitute  that  great  executive  capacity  he  has 
invariably  exhibited,  by  which  perfect  order  and 
constant  harmony  were  preserved  among  his 
men,  and  his  force  rendered  efficient,  invincible, 
and  successful  against  all  odds.  This  executive 
capacity  enabled  him  to  surmount  all  obstacles 
in  "his  exploring  expeditions,  and  was  signally 
shown  in  the  conquest  and  government  of  Cali- 
fornia. It  enabled  him,  in  concluding  his  spirit- 
ed defence  before  the  court-martial,  to  say,  in 
the  bold  confidence  of  truth  : — 


PHYSICAL   ENDURANCE.  339 

"  My  acts  in  California  have  all  been  with 
high  motives,  and  a  desire  for  the  public  service. 
My  scientific  labors  did  something  to  open  Cali- 
fornia to  the  knowledge  of  my  countrymen  ;  its 
geography  had  been  a  sealed  book.  My  military 
operations  were  conquests  without  bloodshed; 
my  civil  administration  was  for  the  public  good. 
I  offer  California,  during  my  administration,  for 
comparison  with  the  most  tranquil  portions  of 
the  United  States ;  I  offer  it,  in  contrast  to  the 
condition  of  New  Mexico  during  the  same  time." 

It  was  said  that  the  Secretary  of  War,  who 
had  come  into  office  during  his  absence,  and  had 
never  seen  him  before,  could  hardly  believe  his 
own  eyes,  when  a  modest,  light,  and  slender 
youth  reported  himself  as  Lieutenant  Fremont, 
just  returned  from  his  expedition  to  Oregon  and 
North  California.  His  appearance  stih1  impresses 
a  similar  surprise  upon  those  who  know  what  he 
has  gone  through.  The  explanation  is  to  be 
found  in  temperate  habits,  and  a  cheerful  faith 
in  success ;  in  calm  courage  to  undertake,  and  pa- 
tient firmness  to  bear  and  go  through,  whatever 
duty  imposes.  The  physical  frame,  if  preserved 
from  all  enfeebling  indulgences,  and  animated 
by  a  well-regulated,  contented,  and  resolute  mind, 
will  retain  the  buoyancy  of  its  spirits  and  the 
energy  of  its  forces.  An  active  out-of-door  life 
in  the  pure  mountain  air,  and  indurated  by  long 
usage  to  the  elements  of  nature,  will  be  very 


340  LIFE   OF   FREMONT. 

likely  to  harden  a  constitution  to  a  high  degree 
of  firmness.  In  this  way  we  are  to  account  for 
the  remarkable  evidences  of  physical  endurance 
recorded  in  these  pages.  Often  Fremont  rode 
sixty  miles  a  day,  swam  foaming  mountain 
torrents,  slept  uncovered,  save  by  a  blanket,  in 
pouring  rains  and  on  beds  of  snow,  and  walked 
and  worked,  day  after  day,  without  food.  So  it 
was  with  his  men.  Carson  and  Godey  pursued, 
attacked,  and  routed  an  Indian  party,  slew  two 
warriors  whose  hands  were  yet  red  with  the  blood 
of  murdered  travellers,  and  brought  in  their  scalps, 
having  ridden  one  hundred  miles  in  thirty  hours. 
Fremont  accomplished  a  still  more  extraordinary 
feat.  Accompanied  by  Pico,  the  Californian  com- 
mandant, whose  life  he  had  spared,  and  Jacob 
Dodson,  he  rode  from  Los  Angeles  to  Monterey, 
four  hundred  and  eighty  miles  in  three  days  and 
ten  hours,  and  after  remaining  one  day,  made 
the  return  distance  within  the  same  time.  This 
is  in  part  to  be  accounted  for,  perhaps,  by  the 
exhilarating  effect  of.  the  atmosphere  of  that 
region  upon  all  animal  life,  but  it  still  remains  a 
wonderful  illustration  of  the  degree  to  which  the 
physical  energies  may  be  invigorated  by  habits 
adapted  to  strengthen  them. 

In  this  connection  it  is  to  be  observed,  as 
Lieutenant  Walpole  mentions  in  the  extract 
quoted  from  his  book,  that  Fremont's  expeditions 
were  conducted  on  temperance  principles.  This 


GOOD   CHARACTER   OP  HIS   MEN.  341 

enabled  him  to  maintain  the  perfection  of  dis- 
cipline which  won  the  admiration  of  all  who 
witnessed  the  conduct  of  his  battalion.  With- 
out any  military  badges,  without  even  a  drum 
to  tap,  there  was  the  most  exact  regularity  and 
order.  Without  severity  there  was  obedience. 
Combined  with  that  precision  and  thoroughness 
of  discipline,  there  was  a  singular  equality  of 
condition,  a  pervading,  fraternal  feeling,  that 
knit  them  together  as  one  family.  Service  under 
Fremont  was  a  school  of  personal  good  conduct, 
and  good  feeling,  and  of  every  manly  virtue. 
The  consequence  is  that  those  of  his  men,  who 
have  survived  their  hardships,  are,  with  scarcely 
a  single  exception,  good  citizens,  useful  members 
of  society,  men  of  commendable  habits,  and  en- 
joying the  prosperity  which  such  characteristics 
will  be  likely,  in  the  long  run,  to  command. 

The  expression  "who  have  survived,"  leads 
me  to  remark  that  these  expeditions,  although 
not  considered  by  some  perhaps  as  entitled  to 
the  interest  with  which  liability  to  death  invests 
the  ordinary  sphere  of  warfare,  were  as  fatal  to 
life  as  the  battle-field.  Besides,  those  already 
mentioned  as  killed  by  Indians,  frozen,  or  starved 
to  death,  "  Bill  Williams,"  the  unfortunate  guide 
in  the  fourth  expedition,  and  one  of  the  brothers, 
Kern,  with  several  others,  were  killed  by  the 
Indians  shortly  after  Fremont  separated  from 
them  to  pursue  his  route.  Charles  Towne  was 

29* 


342  LIFE   OF  FREMONT. 

also  killed  by  Indians  on  another  occasion. 
Creutzfeldt,  and  another  of  the  Kerns,  were  mas- 
sacred with  Captain  Gunnison.  Derosier,  it  is 
feared,  never  recovered  from  the  effects  of  his 
derangement ;  to  which  malady  the  life  of  poor 
Preuss  became  a  voluntary  sacrifice. 

A  community  of  suffering,  pride  in  a  joint  rep- 
utation, a  strict  discipline  voluntarily  preserved, 
observation  of  each  other's  worth  in  the  most 
trying  scenes,  bound  this  company  of  men  to- 
gether by  a  strength  of  affection  and  fidelity 
which  it  is  most  delightful  to  contemplate.  They 
were  severally  and  always  ready  to  risk  life  for 
each  other  ;  and  there  never  appeared  to  be  the 
least  jealousy  or  unworthy  rivalry  among  them. 
This  is  itself  the  highest  evidence  of  the  justice 
and  wisdom  of  their  leader.  Colonel  Fremont 
could  the  more  easily  maintain  this  unity  and 
harmony  among  his  men,  because  he  treated 
them  all  alike.  Without  losing  his  dignity,  he 
held  the  most  affectionate  relations  with  even 
the  humblest  of  his  band.  Delaware  Indians 
were  his  body-guard  and  followed  him  to  the 
very  last.  The  free  colored  man,  Dodson,  was 
often  selected  to  share  with  him  the  most  re- 
sponsible services,  and  was  always  recognized 
as  standing  on  the  same  level  with  the  rest.  He 
has  since  married,  and  lives  in  Washington. 
Colonel  Fremont  has  given  to  each  of  his  three 
children,  20  acres  of  California  land.  In  the 


One  of  the  Delawar  c  body  guard. 


ATTACHMENT  TO  HIS  PEKSON.       343 

postscript  of  a  letter  to  Colonel  Benton,  dated 
July  23,  1855,*  Carson  says:  "If  Colonel  Fre- 
mont is  with  you,  give  him  my  kindest  remem- 
brances, as  also  to  his  excellent  lady.  I  was 
delighted  to  see  in  the  papers  that  his  Mariposa 
grant  had  been  confirmed,  for  if  there  is  a  man 
living  who  deserves  the  blessings  .of  heaven  and 
the  gratitude  of  man,  he  is  one."  There  is  no 
doubt  that  every  one  of  his  men  would  heartily 
indorse  the  warm  expressions  of  Carson's  affec- 
tion. But  it  is  not  the  hardy  backwoodsman, 
or  the  humble  Indian  or  African  alone,  that 
becomes  thus  attached  to  him.  Persons  of  the 
highest  culture  find  themselves  drawn  towards 
him  in  the  same  manner.  Captain  A.  Cathcart, 
an  officer  in  the  British  army,  nephew  of  Sir 
George  Cathcart  who  recently  fell  in  the 
Crimea,  and  a  gentleman  of  extensive  travel  and 
observation,  conversant  with  all  the  most  dis- 
tinguished men  of  his  own  country,  and  in  Euro- 
pean capitals,  accompanied  Colonel  Fremont  in 
his  disastrous  expedition  to  the  St.  John's  Moun- 
tain. The  sufferings  and  trials  of  that  journey 
tested  the  character  and  qualities  of  all  who 
shared  them,  and  especially  of  the  commander 
of  the  ill-fated  party.  Captain  Cathcart  con- 
ceived a  deep  interest  in  Colonel  Fremont,  and 
established  a  friendship  that  expresses  itself  in  a 
permanent  correspondence.  In  1851,  he  sent 
him,  as  a  testimonial  of  his  regard,  a  handsome 


344  LIFE   OF   FREMONT. 

steel-mounted  sword,  expressly  made  for  him,  at 
London.  On  the  blade  is  the  national  motto  of 
the  American  Union,  with  the  accompanying 
embellishments  beautifully  wrought,  with  these 
words :  "  The  Hon.  Colonel  Fremont,  from  A. 
Cathcart." 

The  case  of  this  English  gentleman  leads  to 
the  consideration  of  the  estimation  in  which 
foreigners  have  long  held  the  character  and 
services  of  Colonel  Fremont.  The  Royal 
Geographical  Society  of  London  elected  him  a 
member,  of  which  Mr.  Lawrence  conveyed 
information  to  him,  through  the  Secretary  of 
State.  He  also  transmitted  to  him  the  "  Found- 
er's or  Victoria"  gold  medal  of  the  same  society. 
The  Berlin  Geographical  Society  elected  him  a 
member,  and  sent  him  a  .gold  medal.  The 
Reports  of  his  first  two  expeditions  were  highly 
commended  in  all  the  foreign  journals. 

The  Eclectic  Review,  in  an  article  on  an 
English  reprint  of  them,  expresses  itself  in  the 
following  emphatic  and  discriminating  language. 

"  The  expedition  required  much  physical 
strength,  great  courage,  and  no  common  skill  in 
meeting  the  contingencies  which  daily  arose. 
These  were  preeminently  possessed  by  Captain 
Fremont,  in  happy  combination  with  the  knowl- 
edge which  enabled  him  to  bring  from  the  com- 
paratively unknown  region  he  visited,  important 
contributions  to  the  sciences  of  astronomy, 
geography,  botany,  and  geology." 


FOREIGN  REPUTATION.  345 

The  reference,  in  this  extract,  to  Colonel  Fre- 
mont's attainments  in  knowledge  is  entirely  just. 
In  addition  to  the  branches  named,  with  which 
he  is  eminently  conversant,  his  early  classical 
attainments  have  not  been  allowed  to  fade  from 
his  memory.  Mathematics  still  continue  to 
engage  his  chief  predilection ;  and  he  writes  and 
speaks  the  French  and  Spanish  with  the  facility 
and  correctness  of  a  native. 

The  following  passage  of  a  letter  from  the 
late  ^Theophile  Gay,  one  of  the  most  eminent 
French  botanists,  shows  the  affectionate  and 
respectful  regard  in  which  he  is  held  by  scientific 
men  abroad: — 

"PARIS,  the  27th  of  October,  1853.  ) 
"Rue  de  Vaugirard,  No.  36.  ) 

"  COLONEL  :  I  received  from  you,  some  time 
since,  two  most  agreeable  proofs  that  you  held 
me  in  remembrance,  and  I  should  have  written 
much  sooner  in  answer,  if  I  had  not  feared 
you  were  already  on  your  way  to  California,  and 
that  my  letter  would  not  find  you  at  Washington. 

"  But  your  last  message,  without  date,  reached 
me  the  5th  of  October,  that  is  to  say,  at  a  date 
when  it  would  not  be  prudent  to  risk  one's  self  for 
a  voyage  of  several  months'  length  across  the 
North  American  continent.  From  that,  I  con- 
clude that  you  have  deferred  your  expedition  to 
the  coming  spring,  and  consequently  will  receive 
in  Washington  my  thanks,  and  my  most  sincere 


346  LIFE   OF   FREMOXT. 

and  ardent  wishes  for  the  success  of  this  new 
and  perilous  expedition. 

****** 

"  In  a  second  package,  I  received  the  Plantce 
Fremontiance  of  Doctor  Torrey,  and  this  has 
been  to  me  an  object  of  new  and  very  lively 
gratification;  because  it  was  again  something 
personal  to  you,  Colonel,  and  that  you  have 
found  a  historiographer  perfectly  up  to  the  level 
of  his  task, — not  only  an  historiographer,  but 
an  artist-naturalist,  (peintre-naturaliste,)  sdfch  as 
there  exist  very  few  of  in  Europe,  and  one 
only  in  France,  (I  speak  of  Elocreux.)  I  knew 
him  already  through  the  Plantcs  Wiglitiance  of 
Asa  Gray,  and  I  esteem  it  a  great  good  fortune 
for  the  botanists  of  the  Union  to  possess  so  dis- 
tinguished an  interpreter  of  their  observations. 
With  drawings  of  such  elegance  and  correctness, 
the  value  of  the  text  is  doubled." 

In  Mrs.  Sabine's  translation  of  Humboldt's 
"Aspects  of  Nature,"  the  high  estimate  which 
that  truly  great  man  places  upon  Fremont's  Re- 
ports is  seen  at  length.  He  speaks  of  his  "  com- 
prehensive observations,"  and  enlarges  on  the 
importance  of  his  expeditions  to  the  cause  of 
science.  "As  I  was,  I  believe,"  says  he,  "the 
first  person  who  undertook  to  represent,  in 
geognostic  profile,  the  form  of  entire  countries, 
it  has  given  me  peculiar  pleasure  to  see  the 
graphical  method  of  representing  the  form  of 


HUMBOLDT'S  OPINION  OF  HIM.  347 

the  earth  in  a  vertical  direction,  or  the  elevation 
of  the  solid  portions  of  our  planet  above  its 
watery  covering,  applied  on  so  grand  a  scale  as 
has  been  done  in  Fremont's  map." 

A  correspondent  of  the  New  York  Commer- 
cial Advertiser,  in  an  article  copied  into  the 
Boston  Journal,  in  describing  a  visit  to  this 
"  Nestor  of  scientific  travellers,"  says :  "  The  name 
of  Colonel  Fremont  happening  to  be  mentioned, 
Humboldt  spoke  in  high  praise  of  his  con- 
tributions to  geographical  science,  and  thought 
it  unfortunate  that  he  had  returned,  as  a  prisoner, 
by  the  road  which  he  had  travelled  as  an  ex- 
plorer. He  thought  the  day  would  come  when 
Colonel  Fremont's  worth  would  be  much  better 
appreciated  than  at  present." 

The  opinions  of  the  scientific  men  of  his  own 
country  were  expressed  by  Professor  Silliman  in 
a  review  of  his  Reports,  in  the  American  Journal 
of  Science  and  Art,  second  series.  Vol.  in. 
March,  1847. 

"Few  travellers  have  encountered  greater 
hardships,  and  none  have  exhibited  more  in- 
domitable courage  or  untiring  zeal."  "  Captain 
Freniont's  journal  is  written  in  a  graphic  style, 
bearing  evidence  of  literal  accuracy  in  all  its 
statements,  and  yet,  in  many  parts,  reading  like 
a  romance.  With  deep  interest  we  follow  the 
adventurous  traveller,  threading  his  pathless  way 
over  lofty  ridges,  through  dense  forests,  and  up 


348  LIFE   OF   FREMONT. 

the  icy  heights."  Speaking  of  the  fact  that  a 
particular  flower  had  been  called  "  Fremontia," 
he  says :  "  It  is  right  that  this  bold  explorer  of 
the  mountains  should  have  his  name  inscribed 
among  the  flowers  of  the  region,  and  about  its 
loftiest  heights,  as  well  as  upon  the  honored  page 
of  history." 

Colonel  Fremont  inherited  from  his  father  a 
particular  interest  in  the  Indian  tribes  of  the 
continent ;  and  no  man  so  well  understands  their 
peculiar  traits,  or  knows  so  well  how  to  deal 
with  them.  With  Indian  wars  breaking  out 
from  Florida  to  Puget's  Sound,  this  is  no  trifling 
qualification  for  the  administration  of  our  public 
affairs. 

It  is  said  that  the  Indians  of  his  day  admitted 
General  "Washington  to  their  heaven,  and  were 
of  opinion  that  no  other  white  man  would  be 
allowed  to  enter  those  celestial  hunting-grounds. 
The  Indians  of  the  present  day  have  a  similar 
affection  for  Fremont.  This  is  not  the  only 
point  of  interesting  resemblance  between  them. 
The  same  blood  flowed  in  their  veins.  The 
domestic  influences  under  which  the  mother  of 
Fremont  grew  up,  were  derived  from  the  same 
circle  of  family  connections  within  which  Wash- 
ington was  nurtured.  Several  of  the  most  im- 
pressible years  of  her  son's  childhood  were  passed 
in  that  circle,  among  her  kindred  in  Virginia. 
The  same  remarkable  prediction  was  uttered  in 


WASHINGTON.  349 

the  early  stages  of  their  career.  Though  each 
has  been  exposed  to  every  peril  of  the  wilderness, 
and  of  battle,  their  lives  have  been  constantly 
shielded  from  danger,  and  no  hostile  arm  has 
ever  reached  their  persons.  When  we  consider 
what  Fremont  has  encountered,  in  cold  and 
hunger,  in  rapids  and  rushing  rivers,  from  the 
tomahawk  and  the  rifle,  we  may  well  regard  him 
as  "  A  MAN  OF  DESTINY,"  and  believe  that  Heaven 
has  preserved  him,  also,  for  some  great  purpose, 
yet  to  be  fulfilled.  They  were  both  particularly 
devoted  to  the  mathematical  branches  of  learn- 
ing, by  an  early  and  natural  partiality.  Both 
were  on  the  point  of  being  committed  for  life  to 
the  naval  service.  Both,  while  scarcely  more 
than  boys,  commenced  the  business  of  survey- 
ors ;  they  both  ripened  into  manhood,  carrying 
the  chain  and  compass  in  the  wildernesses  of  the 
Alleghany  ranges ;  and  both  devoted  their  spec- 
ulations and  explorations  to  the  same  special 
object.  It  is  well  known  that  more  than,  and 
before,  all  his  contemporaries,  Washington  dis- 
cerned the  importance  of  connecting  the  Atlantic 
States  with  the  interior,  and  labored  to  promote 
it.  Following  in  the  steps  of  the  GREAT  LEADER, 
the  mind  of  Fremont  has  ever  been  engrossed 
with  similar  views  and  objects.  He  has  led  the 
way,  in  our  day,  in  opening  to  view  the  vast 
hidden  regions  between  the  great  mountain 
ranges  of  the  continent.  He  first  unfurled  our 

30 


350  LIFE    OF   FREMONT. 

flag  on  the  summits  of  them  both.  To  his 
boldness  and  prompt  decision  we  are  indebted 
for  the  integrity  of  our  Pacific  empire;  and,  if 
the  great  desire  of  his  heart  and  object  of  his 
life  is  to  be  accomplished,  we  shall  have  a 
PACIFIC  RAILROAD. 

His  letter  to  the  National  Intelligencer  of 
June  13,  1854,  closes  with  these  words : — 

"  It  seems  a  treason  against  mankind  and  the 
spirit  of  progress  which  marks  the  age,  to  refuse 
to  put  this  one  completing  link  to  our  national 
prosperity  and  the  civilization  of  the  world. 
Europe  still  lies  between  Asia  and  America ; 
build  this  railroad,  and  things  will  have  revolved 
about ;  America  will  lie  between  Asia  and  Eu- 
rope,— the  golden  vein  which  runs  through  the 
history  of  the  world,  will  follow  the  iron  track  to 
San  Francisco,  and  the  Asiatic  trade  will  finally 
fall  into  its  last  and  permanent  road,  when  the 
ancient  and  the  modern  Chryse  throw  open  their 
gates  to  the  thoroughfare  of  the  world." 

No  man  can  claim  the  glory  of  a  true  Ameri- 
can by  a  better  title.  He  has  made  the  knowledge 
and  the  development  of  the  resources  of  this 
continent  the  great  end  of  ah1  his  exertions,  and 
has  pursued  it  with  a  self-sacrificing  devotion. 
His  name  is  stamped  with  an  imprint  that  can 
never  be  obliterated,  over  the  whole  breadth  of 
its  geography. 

Exploring  the  North  American  Continent,  of 


• 


FREE  LABOR.  851 

which  he  has  seen  more  than  any  other  man, 
with  this  object  in  view,  he  has  naturally  become 
devoted  to  the  cause  of  free  labor.  It  has 
always  been  obvious  to  him,  as  one  would  sup- 
pose it  could  not  fail  to  be  to  every  intelligent 
person,  that  the  realization  of  the  commer- 
cial, industrial,  social,  and  moral  greatness,  of 
which  America  is  capable,  depends  vitally  and 
wholly  upon  maintaining  the  DIGNITY  and  the 
RIGHTS  of  LABOR.  He  contended  earnestly  to 
make  California  a  free  State,  and  his  sympathies 
are  with  the  struggles  of  freemen  everywhere 
against  the  extension  of  slavery,  as  his  letter  to 
Governor  Robinson  of  Kansas  shows.  As  this 
letter  is  a  part  of  the  public  history  of  the  times, 
it  is  presented  here. 

"New  Y&rk,  176  Secoud  Avenue,  March  17,  1856. 

"  MY  DEAR  SIR  :  Your  letter  of  February 
reached  me  in  Washington  some  time  since.  I 
read  it  with  much  satisfaction.  It  was  a  great 
pleasure  to  find  that  you  retained  so  lively  a 
recollection  of  our  intercourse  in  California. 
But  my  own  experience  is,  that  permanent  and 
valuable  friendships  are  most  often  formed  in 
contests  and  struggles.  If  a  man  has  good 
points,  then  they  become  salient,  and  we- know 
each  other  suddenly. 

"  I  had  both  been  thinking  and  speaking  of 
you  latterly.  The  Banks  balloting  in  the  House 


352  LIFE  OF  FRE.MOXT. 

and  your  movements  in  Kansas  had  naturally 
carried  my  mind  back  to  our  one  hundred  and 
forty  odd  ballots  in  California,  and  your  letter 
came  seasonably  and  fitly  to  complete  the  con- 
nection. We  were  defeated  then ;  but  that  con- 
test was  only  an  incident  in  a  great  struggle, 
and  the  victory  was  deferred,  not  lost.  You 
have  carried  to  another  field  the  same  principle, 
with  courage  and  ability  to  maintain  it ;  and  I 
make  you  my  sincere  congratulations  on  your 
success — incomplete  so  far,  but  destined  in  the 
end  to  triumph  absolutely. 

"  I  had  been  waiting  to  see  what  shape  the 
Kansas  question  would  take  in  congress,  that 
I  might  be  enabled  to  give  you  some  views  in 
relation  to  the  probable  result.  Nothing  yet 
has  been  accomplished ;  but  I  am  satisfied  that 
in  the  end  congress  will  take  efficient  measures 
to  lay  before  the  American  people  the  exact 
truth  concerning  your  affairs.  Neither  you  nor 
I  can  have  any  doubt  what  verdict  the  people 
will  pronounce,  upon  a  truthful  exposition.  It 
is  to  be  feared,  from  the  proclamation  of  the 
President,  that  he  intends  to  recognize  the  usur- 
pation in  Kansas,  as  the  legitimate  government, 
and  that  its  sedition  law,  the  test  oath,  and  the 
means  to  be  taken  to  expel  its  people  as  aliens, 
will  all  directly  or  indirectly  be  supported  by 
the  army  of  the  United  States.  Your  position 
will  undoubtedly  be  difficult,  but  you  know  I 


GOVERNOR   ROBINSON.  353 

have  great  confidence  in  your  firmness  and  pru- 
dence. When  the  critical  moment  arrives,  you 
must  act  for  yourself — no  man  can  give  you 
counsel.  A  true  man  will .  always  find  his  best 
counsel  in  that  inspiration  which  a  good  cause 
never  fails  to  give  him  at  the  instant  of  trial. 
All  history  teaches  us  that  great  results  are 
ruled  by  a  wise  Providence,  and  we  are  but 
units  in  the  great  plan.  Your  action  will  be 
determined  by  events  as  they  present  them- 
selves, and  at  1;his  distance  I  can  only  say  that 
I  sympathize  cordially  with  you;  and  that,  as 
you  stood  by  me  firmly  and  generously  when 
we  were  defeated  by  the  Nulliners  in  California, 
I  have  every  disposition  to  stand  by  you  in 
the  same  way  in  your  battle  with  them  in 
Kansas. 

"  You  see  that  what  I  have  been  saying  is 
more  a  reply  to  the  suggestions  which  your  con- 
dition makes  to  me,  than  any  answer  to  your 
letter,  which  more  particularly  regards  myself. 
The  notices  which  you  had  seen  of  me,  in  con- 
nection with  the  Presidency,  came  from  the 
partial  disposition  of  friends,  who  think  of  me 
more  flatteringly  than  I  do  of  myself,  and  do 
not,  therefore,  call  for  any  action  from  us.  Re- 
peating that  I  am  really  and  sincerely  gratified 
in  the  renewal  of  our  old  friendship,  or  rather 
in  the  expression  of  it,  which  I  hope  will  not 
no* 


354  LIFE    OF    FREMONT. 

hereafter  have  so  long  an  interval,  I  am  yours, 
very  truly,  J.  C.  FREMONT. 

"  Gov.  CHARLES  ROBINSON,  Lawrence,  Kan- 
sas." 

The  example  of  Col.  Fremont  has  been  de- 
lineated in  this  work,  and  is  exhibited  to  his 
countrymen  not  for  any  temporary  purpose,  but 
because  it  ought,  from  its  essential  worth  and 
importance,  to  be  placed  where  all  can  con- 
template it.  His  personal  history  is,  in  many 
essential  particulars,  especially  in  reference  to 
California  affairs,  the  history  of  the  country. 
But  the -example  is  held  up,  mainly,  on  account 
of  its  moral  value  to  the  rising  generations  of 
America.  The  course  of  John  Charles  Fremont 
is  a  pattern,  and  his  success  an  encouragement 
to  every  noble  mind,  which,  despising  sloth  and 
ease,  folly  and  pleasure,  aspires  to  an  honorable 
usefulness  to  be  achieved  by  meritorious  exer- 
tions. 

The  self-made  man,  sustaining  himself  in  the 
pursuit  of  knowledge,  by  incessant  labors  as  an 
humble  teacher  of  private  classes — the  young 
pioneer,  penetrating  interior  forests,  climbing 
snow-clad  mountains,  enduring  every  privation, 
and  braving  every  danger — the  patriot  soldier, 
ever  ready  to  die  beneath  the  flag  of  his  country 
— the  humane  conqueror,  by  clemency  making 
his  victories  complete — the  gallant  commander, 


CONCLUSION.  355 

just  and  kind  to  his  men — the  enlightened 
legislator,  watching  over  the  interests  and  rights 
of  LABOR  and  INDUSTRY — the  scientific  scholar, 
commanding  the  respect  of  the  learned  men 
of  his  country  and  the  world — and  the  far- 
reaching  statesman,  embracing  the  continent  in 
his  policy,  and  giving  his  life,  in  an  unparalleled 
service  of  toil,  suffering,  and  peril,  to  open  a 
channel  through  which  the  wealth  of  the  other 
continents  may  flow  over  its  surface,  are  all 
before  the  eyes  of  the  YOUNG  MEN  OF  AMERICA, 
in  the  character  portrayed  on  these  pages.  May 
the  spectacle  give  ardor  to  every  manly  virtue, 
and  inspire  all  hearts  with  industry  and  resolu- 
tion in  self-improvement,  with  fidelity  and 
courage  in  the  discharge  of  duty,  and  with  an 
exalted  and  comprehensive  patriotism. 


END. 


FRE-MONT. 

MY  first  is  a  thrilling  word  ! 

Dearer  than  life  to  those, 
Within  whose  souls  its  spirit  stirred, 
The  call  to  toil  and  strife  who  heard, 
And  who  a  martyr's  grave  preferred 

To  serving  foreign  foes  ! 

Bright  on  my  second  beams 

The  early  morning  ray  ! 
There  the  sun  lingers  long,  and  gleams, 
Like  those  that  haunt  us  in  our  dreams 
Of  glory,  flash  in  fitful  streams, 

As  loth  to  pass  away. 

My  whole  is  a  magic  name  ; 

Our  over-arching  skies, 
Our  hills  and  valleys,  shall  proclaim 
Each  to  the  other,  all  his  fame, 
And  bear  it  up,  with  loud  acclaim, 

Where  our  free  mountains  rise. 

M.  E   M. 


March  17, 1856. 


(  356  ) 


BOSTOX,  135  WASHINGTON  STEEET, 
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A  NEW  JUVENILE.    (In  Press.) 


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PLAYS.  ARMAND  AND  FASHION.  Price  50  cents. 
MIMIC  LIFE.  1  vol.  Price  $1.25. 


A   LIST    OP   BOOKS    PUBLISHED 


ALICE    GARY. 

POEMS.    1  vol.    16mo.    Price  $1.00. 
CLOVERNOOK  CHILDREN.    With  Plates.    75  cents. 

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MEMOIR  OF  THE  BUCKMINSTERS.     $1.25. 
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ALDERBROOK.    BY  FANNY  FORRESTER.   2  vols.    Price  $1.75. 
THE  KATHAYAN   SLAVE,  AND    OTHER  PAPERS.     1  vol. 

Price  63  cents. 
MY  TWO  SISTERS:  A  SKETCH  FROM  MEMORY.  Price  50  cents. 


POETRY. 

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HEXRY  ALFORD'S  POEMS.    Just  out    Price  $1.25. 
RICHARD    MONCKTON   MILNES.    POEMS  OP  MANY  YEARS. 

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10  A   LIST    OF   BOOKS    PUBLISHED 


WILLIAM  MOUNTFORD.  THORPE:  A  QUIET  ENGLISH  TOWN, 
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ART  OF  PROLONGING  LIFE.  By  HUFELAND.  Edited  by 
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JOSEPH  T.  BUCKINGHAM'S  PERSONAL  MEMOIRS  AND 
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VILLAGE  LIFE  IN  EGYPT.  By  the  Author  of  '  Purple  Tints  of 
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DR.  JOHN  C.  WARREN.  THE  PRESERVATION  OF  HEALTH,  &c. 
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PRIOR'S  LIFE^  OF  EDMUND  BURKE.    2  vols.    $2.00. 

NATURE  IN  DISEASE.  BY  DR.  JACOB  BIGELOW.  1  vol.  16mo. 
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WENSLEY:  A  STORY  WITHOUT  A  MORAL.    Price  75  cents. 

GOLDSMITH.  THE  VICAR  OF  WAKEFIELD.  Illustrated  Edition. 
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THE  BARCLAYS  OF  BOSTON:    BY  MRS.  H.  G.  OTIS.    1  voL 

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BY   TICKNOR   AND    FIELDS.  11 

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F.  W.  P.  GREENWOOD.    SERMONS  OF  CONSOLATION.    $1.00. 

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SIR  ROGER  DE  COVERLET.    From  the  '  Spectator.'    75  cents. 

S.  T.  WALLIS.    SPAIN,  HER  INSTITUTIONS,  POLITICS,  AND  PUB 
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MKS.  PUTNAM'S  RECEIPT  BOOK  ;    AN  ASSISTANT  TO  HOUSE 
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THE  SOLITARY  OF  JUAN  FERNANDEZ.    By  tlie  Author  of 
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RUTH.    A  New  Novel  by  the  Author  of  '  MARY  BARTON.'    Cheap 
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EACH  OF  THE  ABOVE  POEMS  AND   PROSE  WRITINGS,  MAY  BE   HAD 
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HP"  Any  book  published  by  TICKNOR  &  FIELDS,  will  be  sent  by 
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Their  stock  of  Miscellaneous  Books  is  very  complete,  and  they 
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RIES. 


1205  00212  0051 

ILLUSTRATED 

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